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Description:

This is a striking face dominated by a sharp right-facing arete.

Access Issues: inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnee de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $7 as of summer 2011, and yearly memberships ($35 as of 2011) are also available. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Approach:

Take the main trail right out of the initial encampment until you see the sign for the L'Hippocampe, at which point branch lef and up along this small rough trail.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Morticia & Gomez
5.5
Trad 40m
2 Juliette & Romeo

Direct finish for Morticia & Gomez -- rather than exiting leftwards.

5.6
Trad 40m
3 Blocs Lego
5.8
Trad 20m
4 Ptosys
5.11c
Sport 20m , 8
5 Myosis
5.11a
Sport 20m , 7
6 L'hippocampe

Start from the belay at the end of the 1st pitch of "Ligne d'acier", climb the crack straight up from the belay as it curves up and right, then continuing crack system left of the arete.

5.10b
Trad 20m
7 Derniere Minute
5.10a
Mixed 15m , 2
8 Ligne d'acier

Climb the face left of the obvious crack to a belay on the ledge. Then move right and up to the arete and continue up the arete, staying on the left side of the arete, to the top.

5.11c
Sport 40m , 15
9 ** L'hypothenuse

The lovely crack that starts right facing and curves to almost vertical along the right side of the front face of the cliff.

5.7
Trad 14m
10 ** L'arete des Urubus

This route is, essentially, the 2nd pitch of "L'hypothenuse" -- it starts at the anchors for L'hypothenuse, then follows bolts up the right side of the obvious striking arete.

5.10b
Sport 22m , 8
11 L'envers de l'arete

This is the first deep crack along the right side of the cliff. (Name means "the other side of the arete".)

There are a couple 2nd-pitch projects for this route.

5.10b
Trad 15m
12 Les p'tits mononc

The next obvious deep crack along the right side of the cliff as you head a bit uphill.

Longer than 30m, descend by rappelling on of the other routes to the left in two stages.

5.11d
Trad
13 Tally-Ho

A little farther uphill is another big crack, but rather than having smooth edges, this one has lots of big rough edges. Also, overhanging.

5.11b
Sport
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