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You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

This is a striking face dominated by a sharp right-facing arete.

Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members with the "Laurention Section" add-on may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Approach

Take the main trail right out of the initial encampment until you see the sign for the L'Hippocampe, at which point branch lef and up along this small rough trail.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.5 Morticia & Gomez Trad 40m
2
5.6 Juliette & Romeo Trad 40m

Direct finish for Morticia & Gomez -- rather than exiting leftwards.

3
5.8 Blocs Lego Trad 20m
4
5.11c Ptosys Sport 20m, 8
5
5.11a Myosis Sport 20m, 7
6
5.10b L'hippocampe Trad 20m

Start from the belay at the end of the 1st pitch of "Ligne d'acier", climb the crack straight up from the belay as it curves up and right, then continuing crack system left of the arete.

7
5.10a Derniere Minute Mixed 15m, 2
8
5.11c Ligne d'acier Sport 40m, 15

Climb the face left of the obvious crack to a belay on the ledge. Then move right and up to the arete and continue up the arete, staying on the left side of the arete, to the top.

9
5.7 ** L'hypothenuse Trad 14m

The lovely crack that starts right facing and curves to almost vertical along the right side of the front face of the cliff.

10
5.10b ** L'arete des Urubus Sport 22m, 8

This route is, essentially, the 2nd pitch of "L'hypothenuse" -- it starts at the anchors for L'hypothenuse, then follows bolts up the right side of the obvious striking arete.

11
5.10b L'envers de l'arete Trad 15m

This is the first deep crack along the right side of the cliff. (Name means "the other side of the arete".)

There are a couple 2nd-pitch projects for this route.

12
5.11d Les p'tits mononc Trad

The next obvious deep crack along the right side of the cliff as you head a bit uphill.

Longer than 30m, descend by rappelling on of the other routes to the left in two stages.

13
5.11b Tally-Ho Sport

A little farther uphill is another big crack, but rather than having smooth edges, this one has lots of big rough edges. Also, overhanging.