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You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

This cliff is fairly high up, facing outwards at the top of the wide gulley defined by "Hyppocampe" and "Paroi Oblique" on the left and "Le fou" and some more broken rock leftwards and above it on the right.

It is a gorgeous and impressive face with a couple of overhanging wide cracks on the main face.

Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Approach

Walk along the trail rightwards until you see the turn off for "Hypocampe", hike up to and past it, then past "Paroi Oblique", until you come to the face across the top of the canyon.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.10b Trinity Sport 12m, 6
2
3
5.12a Mechante Chicane Trad 20m

The obvious wide crack that goes most directly up the center of the main face.

4
5.12d La chicane de Paul Mixed 20m, 3

On the main face, there is a clear crack that goes up to a very clear right angle turn where the right side wall turns into a roof. Follow across this roof, then back right and up bolts to the top.

5
5.10c Meo penche Sport 20m, 7
6
5.9 Petite Chicane Trad 20m
7
5.11d Biscuits Mixed 20m, 7
8
5.10b Dad's Sport 20m, 7