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Description:

This cliff is fairly high up, facing outwards at the top of the wide gulley defined by "Hyppocampe" and "Paroi Oblique" on the left and "Le fou" and some more broken rock leftwards and above it on the right.

It is a gorgeous and impressive face with a couple of overhanging wide cracks on the main face.

Access Issues: inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnee de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $7 as of summer 2011, and yearly memberships ($35 as of 2011) are also available. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Approach:

Walk along the trail rightwards until you see the turn off for "Hypocampe", hike up to and past it, then past "Paroi Oblique", until you come to the face across the top of the canyon.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Trinity
5.10b
Sport 12m , 6
2 Le complexe du "Corn Flakes"
5.13
Sport 12m , 5
3 Mechante Chicane

The obvious wide crack that goes most directly up the center of the main face.

5.12a
Trad 20m
4 La chicane de Paul

On the main face, there is a clear crack that goes up to a very clear right angle turn where the right side wall turns into a roof. Follow across this roof, then back right and up bolts to the top.

5.12d
Mixed 20m , 3
5 Meo penche
5.10c
Sport 20m , 7
6 Petite Chicane
5.9
Trad 20m
7 Biscuits
5.11d
Mixed 20m , 7
8 Dad's
5.10b
Sport 20m , 7