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Description

The base of the fou slopes upwards from right to left, and the approach starts at the base -- so the first climbs you see are the last ones in the list.

Many of the climbs are single pitch -- but, above the lower face, there is a defnite ledge with a couple bumps, then upper walls. This does mean there are a few multi-pitch climbs, generally totalling up to 60m.

Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Approach

Follow the path out the right side of the welcome area, until you see a sign for Le Fou at a trail branching off to the left. The cliff is just visible through the trees from the main trail, though some of the upper parts may be more visible.

About 15 minutes.

Descent notes

Generally lower from anchors.

Routes

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Grade Route

At the top end of the fou, look for the flake bolted to the wall.

This is the obvious left-leaning ramp with a crack running up the right-side of the crack. It protects very well.

Start up the crack of Cracker Joe, then traverse right with a good under-cling to the arete with lovely flakes up the arete.

The thinnest line at the Fou crag.

Starts as per Long Life, then branches right after the first bolt.

Climbs the arete left of the left-leaning chimney/wide crack.

Starts in a low chimney that narrows as it leans up and leftwards, then pulls up onto the slab to the right of the chimney.

Bolts: 8, 6

FA: Gaétan Castilloux

The first pitch of Maudit Fou is often climbed as an independent climb.

The first pitch of Lollypops is often climbed as an independent climb.

The wide crack at the top of the cliff. An alternate finish for "Le centenaire" or "Lollypops".

If you skip the final bolts to belay off a tree, you can go about 7 meters climbers left to another set of rap bolts. You can do a full rap to the ground with 2x60m.

Set by José Dionisio

3 pitches with ledges along the way.

Pitch 2 is very short, and the obvious line continues up and left to Krakatoa. For the actual 3rd pitch of Le centenaire, turn right along the ledge just below the final face and traverse past some trees to another bolted anchor.

Bolts: 6, 3, 8.

FA: Gaétan Castilloux & René Laplante, 2003

FA: Gaetant & Nancy

FA: José Dionisio et Anne-Marie Cournoyer

Activity

Check out what is happening in Le fou.