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You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

The base of the fou slopes upwards from right to left, and the approach starts at the base -- so the first climbs you see are the last ones in the list.

Many of the climbs are single pitch -- but, above the lower face, there is a defnite ledge with a couple bumps, then upper walls. This does mean there are a few multi-pitch climbs, generally totalling up to 60m.

Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Approach

Follow the path out the right side of the welcome area, until you see a sign for Le Fou at a trail branching off to the left. The cliff is just visible through the trees from the main trail, though some of the upper parts may be more visible.

About 15 minutes.

Descent Notes

Generally lower from anchors.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.4 fille du roi Trad 15m
2
5.9 * Boeing Sport 12m, 6

At the top end of the fou, look for the flake bolted to the wall.

3
5.9 ** Cracker Joe Trad 11m

This is the obvious left-leaning ramp with a crack running up the right-side of the crack. It protects very well.

4
5.10d ** Exacto Sport 15m, 6

Start up the crack of Cracker Joe, then traverse right with a good under-cling to the arete with lovely flakes up the arete.

5
5.11b Twins Tower Nord Sport 16m, 6
6
5.11b Twins Tower Sud Sport 16m, 7
7
5.12b Siege ejectable Sport 17m, 6

The thinnest line at the Fou crag.

8
5.11c Foubrak Mixed 20m, 4
9
5.11a Lapedioni Mixed 35m, 8
10
5.11b Quantum Plouk Sport 17m, 4
11
5.10d Anubis Sport 25m, 4
12
5.10b Long Life Mixed 30m, 5
13
5.8 Tranquilos Sport 25m, 5

Starts as per Long Life, then branches right after the first bolt.

14
5.11d Super Bam Sport 30m, 3
15
5.8 La petite Delphine Mixed 50m, 5
16
5.9 * La valse des retraités Mixed 45m, 12

Bolts: 8, 4

FA: Gaétan Casyilloux

17
5.11b Merlin Sport 20m, 6
18
5.11 Crystaligne Sport 20m, 6
19
5.12a Womatagna Sport
20
5.10b Maudit Fou Mixed 60m, 13
21

The first pitch of Maudit Fou is often climbed as an independent climb.

22
5.11b ** Lollypops Sport 60m
23

The first pitch of Lollypops is often climbed as an independent climb.

24
5.9 * Krakatoa Sport 25m, 6

Alternate final pitch for Le centenaire -- go left to a crack, rather than right at the top of the 2nd pitch.

25
5.8 * Le centenaire Sport 75m, 8

3 pitches, with short walks between pitches/sections. The middle pitch is quite short. Bolts: 6, 3, 8.

FA: Gaétan Castilloux, René Laplante, 2003

26
5.10d Directe du Fou Mixed 20m, 5
27
5.8 *** Diagonale du fou Mixed 60m, 5

FA: Gaetant & Nancy

28
5.10b fou du roi Mixed 20m, 5

FA: José Dionisio et Anne-Marie Cournoyer

29
5.13b Jipifer Sport 20m, 6
30
5.10b Coeur vaillant Mixed 20m, 1
31
5.9 L'entonnoir Trad 25m