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Description

This cliff has a tall (30+m) easy slab, with a few tough routes on a more vertical cliff just to the right.

Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Approach

From the main entrance, take the path to the right, past M&M, and the Fou. Turn left at the marked side-trail, and walk a short distance to the cliff.

Mostly flat, easy approach.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.6 Skizomaniac Sport 30m, 8

Start as per Encore!, but after traverse continue left and up a line of bolts.

(spring 2011 -- this route is in the guide book, but doesn't appear to exist. Where it is diagrammed is covered in moss with no signs of bolts nor or the scrubbing that would likely have been done for the first ascent in 2007.)

2
5.4 *** Encore! mon lapin Trad 20m

Start up the obvious crack at the bottom of the face, until it is easy to traverse leftwards (a couple meters up) to the obvious crack running up the left side of the face. Follow this crack to anchors by the tree.

3
5.5 Arrêtez-le quelqu'un! Sport 18m, 2

Effectively 2nd pitch of Encore! Mon Lapin -- it starts at the anchors, then continues up past a couple bolts to another set of anchors. If combined, can lower from the anchors with a 70m rope, despite the total climb being over 35m, because the lower is straight down.

4
5.5 Lapin Agile Sport 30m, 9

Start up the crack as per Encore!, step left at the traverse then up the obvious bolt line up the centre of the slab.

5

The right-most set of bolts on the easy slab face, this climb goes up easy terrain to a two-bolt anchor.

Stepping sideways to the right from the anchor provides easy access to the top of Hannibal Lecter and other climbs along that face.

6
5.4 Poussinet Trad 55m

Follow the obvious crack from the base of the cliff and just keep going and going.

There is a visible anchor from the base (about 20m) -- but at that point, the route doesn't look to go any further. Maybe it goes up the treed gully for a bit, then becomes climbing again for the 2nd pitch?

7
5.4 Poussinet au Tambour Mixed 38m, 1

Start on Poussinet (obvious main crack up the face) to the obvious anchors, at this point follow the obvious trad line up the crack leftwards (the latter part of Le lapin au tambour), back rightwards, then leftwards again to the anchors.

(Can lower with a 70m rope from the anchors, with a meter or so to spare.)

8
5.4 Le lapin au tambour Trad 30m
9
5.10d Canibal Top rope 12m

Doesn't look to be cleaned or climbed, and if there are TR anchors, they aren't visible. Maybe not actually a route?

10
5.9 * Hanibal Lecter Trad 10m

Climb in the dihedral (not visible on photograph), up through the overhang, staying right of the overhang, then after topping, left to anchors.

11
5.10d La paume de Boudha Sport 10m, 4

Climb up the bolt line up the arete.

12
5.10a Colonel Kirtz Trad 10m

Climb up the obvious crack to the double crack, then back to a single crack, exiting in front of the tree, with bolted anchor just to the left of the top-out.

13
5.5 Diedre Maboul Trad 17m

Climb the obvious crack. Anchor on trees.

14
5.5 Dulfer Loufoque Trad 18m

Climb the obvious set of flakes and cracks.

(Spring 2011 -- this route is completely covered in moss, doesn't look like it has been climbed in ages. Looks like it might still be climbable, though, as the holds look pretty solid.)