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Grand Canyon 53 routes in Cliff

  • Avg. Height: 24m
  • Style: Trad,Sport and Top Rope
  • Ascents: 75

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Description:

A moderately high, long wall not far from the welcome area. The climbing is generally less than vertical to near vertical, and in most cases the cruxes of the climbs tend to come as the cliff rolls off at the top and the rock becomes less and less featured at that point.

Much of the cliff-top is accessible for setting top-ropes on the routes, with there being guide ropes & cabling along much of it to make it safer.

Access Issues: inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnee de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $7 as of summer 2011, and yearly memberships ($35 as of 2011) are also available. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Approach:

Climb the stairs (or Little Beer) to the back and left of the welcome area, then follow the obvious trail up until it branches, taking the right branch (signed for Grand Canyon) and continue the hike up into the canyon.

Not more than 10 minutes from the welcome area,

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 *** Sloggo

At the far left (upper) end of the canyon, this large crack system starts by gently angling upwards as it traverses left, then goes to straight up, and finally curves back to the right.

THis is, also, almost never climbed, and is totally covered in moss and dead leaves. It would need at least a moderate cleaning before being climbed.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.5
Trad 16m
2 Le Castor Bricoleur

FA: Jeane-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.7
Trad 22m
3 Invitation Mixte

FA: Sylvain Vezina & Jean-Pierre Ferron, 1996

5.10b
Mixed 22m , 4
4 La Belle de Cadix

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1996

5.7
Sport 14m , 4
5 Y'a d'la Joie
5.5
Trad 14m
6 La Tactique du Gendarme
5.6
Mixed 26m , 3
7 Madame la Marquise
5.6
Trad 26m
8 Frenesie
5.9
Mixed 15m , 2
9 Last Call
5.10d
Mixed 15m , 5
10 Le Bogue de l'An 2000
5.9
Trad 40m
11 Titanicomanie
5.8
Mixed 38m , 3
12 La Valse des Temps Modernes

A variant finish for Titanicomanie which makes the route sport the whole way.

5.9
Sport 38m , 8
13 Rav - 4

Climbs to anchors, can then extend to share top/second pitch of La Valse de Temps Modernes -- but the interesting climbing is done by then.

5.10b
Sport 39m , 10
14 La danse de l'Ours
5.12a
Sport 14m , 4
15 Mephisto
5.11d
Mixed 25m , 3
16 Les Acrobates de l'Espace
5.7
Trad 25m
17 *** Les Funambules du Ciel

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.7
Trad 25m
18 Les Heros de la Voltige

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.7
Trad 24m
19 Cinquante Roc - Coeurs

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet & Laurent Cloutier, 1998

5.9
Trad 40m
20 Souris Chauve

FA: Gaétan Castilloux, 1996

5.10b
Sport 34m , 9
21 Enfin Seche
5.10a
Mixed 34m , 9
22 Super Crackpot
5.8
Mixed 35m , 5
23 La Cha-cha des Félins

FA: Jean-Claude Néolet, 1998

5.9
Sport 28m , 7
24 Garantie Prolongee
5.10a
Mixed 30m , 6
25 La Voie de Pooh
5.7
Trad 35m
26 La Vente Etiquette Rouge
5.11a
Mixed 30m , 5
27 * Piglet

FA: Jose Dionisio, 1997

5.9
Sport 25m , 7
28 Le Sacre du Printemps
5.9
Trad 25m
29 Crocodile
5.9
Sport 25m , 3
30 Mauvaise Herbe
5.10c
Sport 25m , 5
31 Combustion Lente

Though not visible from the bottom, the crack just goes and goes and goes.

FA: Michel Ouellet, 1996

5.8
Trad 70m
32 Illusion

While listed in the guide as "mixte" (mixed, suggesting that gear is needed in some parts, but bolts are used in others), this really climbs as a sport climb. There is no point on the lead where you need to place gear.

5.9
Sport 25m , 8
33 Pathfinder
5.10a
Sport 25m , 8
34 Lucky Luke

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1996

5.10b
Sport 24m , 10
35 Beaujolais Nouveau
5.8
Trad 20m
36 Le "Speech" de Gaétan

FA: Simon Brunet, Gaétan Castilloux, 1998

5.8
Sport 20m , 6
37 Chute Libre

FA: Simon Brunet, Olivier Sofer, 1996

5.8
Mixed 20m , 1
38 Les Petits Chiens "Zigneurs"
5.11c
Mixed 20m , 4
39 Le Tailleur de Pierre
5.12c
Sport 22m , 6
40 Triplets

Guide indicates two bolts -- but I can't see them on the climb.

5.7
Mixed 22m , 2
41 La Motte
5.4
Trad 15m
42 Le Bonhomme Sept-Heures
5.4
Trad 15m
43 Le Retour des Loups-Garous

FA: Laurent Cloutier & Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.8
Sport 20m , 6
44 Le Marchand de Sable

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet & Lucie Laforest, 1997

5.5
Mixed 16m , 1
45 Les Trolls
5.4
Mixed 15m , 3
46 Les Farfadets
5.4
Mixed 15m , 2
47 Kenneth le Grand Inquisiteur

FA: Lucie Laforest, Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.4
Top rope 12m
48 Les Sorcieres du Bureau Ovale

It shares anchors with "Kenneth le Grand Inquisiteur".

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.5
Top rope 12m
49 Bill le Crapaud

FA: Lucie Laforest et Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.3
Top rope 12m
50 Planete Halloween

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.4
Top rope 12m
51 L'Apprenti Sorcier

FA: Lucie Laforest et Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.4
Top rope 12m
52 Fantomas

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.6
Top rope 12m
53 ** Le litige

This climb is above the lower (right) end of the main Grand Canyon wall.

From the bottom of the canyon, hike along the small trail rightwards, until it doubles-back (with fixed rope) up some 3rd class slab, as you would if you were going to set top-ropes for the main Grand Canyon walls. As you finish the roped slab, and come out near the top of the first climbs, look right (down into canyon is left) and you will see a bolted anchor, and bolts heading up from there. This is where the climb starts.

Actualy the route climbs in 3 pitchs and raps in 2 pitches with one 60m rope ( there is a dedicated rap station quite directely under the top anchor) P1 slab & easy climb to a blind belay on the RIGHT under evergreen trees, P2 leads to the base of the more vertical wall P3 traverse left to start climbing right facing corner and up the crack to top belay

Enjoy the view.

5.9
Sport 58m , 10