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Description

A moderately high, long wall not far from the welcome area. The climbing is generally less than vertical to near vertical, and in most cases the cruxes of the climbs tend to come as the cliff rolls off at the top and the rock becomes less and less featured at that point.

Much of the cliff-top is accessible for setting top-ropes on the routes, with there being guide ropes & cabling along much of it to make it safer.

Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Approach

Climb the stairs (or Little Beer) to the back and left of the welcome area, then follow the obvious trail up until it branches, taking the right branch (signed for Grand Canyon) and continue the hike up into the canyon.

Not more than 10 minutes from the welcome area,

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.5 *** Sloggo Trad 16m

At the far left (upper) end of the canyon, this large crack system starts by gently angling upwards as it traverses left, then goes to straight up, and finally curves back to the right.

THis is, also, almost never climbed, and is totally covered in moss and dead leaves. It would need at least a moderate cleaning before being climbed.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

2
5.7 Le Castor Bricoleur Trad 22m

Starts out on a blocky crack that climbs up to a large ledge. From the ledge climb a left-facing corner with a crack at the pack that then transitions to a right-facing corner with the same, widening as one climbs, crack at the back of it.

FA: Jeane-Claude Neolet, 1998

3
5.10b * Invitation Mixte Mixed 22m, 4

A few meters right of "Le Castor Bricoleur" is a steeper thinner crack, with a bolt just at the sky line. Climb up the (initially blocky), but eventually thinning down to shallow fingers crack, which disappears at the bolt, then up the friction slab above (4 bolts) to the anchors.

FA: Sylvain Vezina & Jean-Pierre Ferron, 1996

4
5.7 La Belle de Cadix Sport 14m, 4

Starts behind a pair of trees, and ends just below a tree as well. Climb the bolt line over some thin holds for the grade.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1996

5
5.5 Y'a d'la Joie Trad 14m
6
5.6 La Tactique du Gendarme Mixed 20m, 3

Looking for a set of three bolts angling up and leftwards, on an almost ramp-like area of rock. Needs gear for the upper section/finish.

7
5.6 Madame la Marquise Trad 20m

Look for a pair of left-arching cracks at the top of the cliff -- this climb starts below and right of them.

Climb the blocky crack to the left-arching crack and finish up and left through them. A bit run-out at the end.

8
5.9 Frenesie Mixed 15m, 2
9
5.10d Last Call Mixed 15m, 5
10

While listed as a 40m climb in the guide, and it can be climbed as such, there is a 2-bolt anchor at the end of the interesting climbing at about 28m. The crack continues from there, but it is very dirty, mossy, and treed.

11
5.8 Titanicomanie Mixed 38m, 3
12

A variant finish for Titanicomanie which makes the route sport the whole way.

13
5.10b * Rav - 4 Sport 20m, 10

Starts below a low roof with orange rock below the roof.

Climb up pulling the roof, to technical slab climbing above, with holds getting thinner as one finishes around the top of the steep section.

After climbing to anchors, can then extend to share top/second pitch of "La Valse des Temps Modernes" (5.9) -- but the interesting climbing is done by then. About 38m to the top anchors.

14
5.12a La danse de l'Ours Sport 14m, 4
15
5.11d Mephisto Mixed 25m, 3
17

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

18

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

19

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet & Laurent Cloutier, 1998

20
5.10b Souris Chauve Sport 34m, 9

FA: Gaétan Castilloux, 1996

21
5.10a Enfin Seche Mixed 34m, 9

(As of 08/2013, a bolt is missing a hanger on this route, and it is in the crux section.)

22
5.8 Super Crackpot Mixed 35m, 5
23
5.9 La Cha-cha des Félins Sport 28m, 7

FA: Jean-Claude Néolet, 1998

24
5.10a Garantie Prolongee Mixed 30m, 6
25
5.7 La Voie de Pooh Mixed 40m, 2

Start at the same wide crack as Garantie Prolonge, but instead head up and right along rising edges and traverses, across La Vente Eticquette Rouge, Piglet, and finally turning up and slightly left to finish up the upper section of Le Sacre du Printemps.

Gear for the traverse is tricky to spot in advance, and sometimes to place, but is all there. (1 bolt borrowed from Piglet.)

Lower-off is a bit more then 30m from the high anchor.

26
5.11a La Vente Etiquette Rouge Mixed 30m, 5
27
5.9 * Piglet Sport 25m, 7

FA: Jose Dionisio, 1997

28
5.9 Le Sacre du Printemps Mixed 32m, 1

High anchor at top is about a 32m lower.

It may be possible to step right to the anchor for Crocodile and lower-off with a 60m. (From the top anchor, a 60m rope and rope stretch may get you to the ground, depending on amount of rope stretch.)

29
5.9 Crocodile Mixed 25m, 3

Climb leftwards up blocky rock to a steep left-angling widish crack. Pull through, then finish with the usual Grand Canyon thin moves at the top (bolts).

30
5.10c Mauvaise Herbe Sport 25m, 5
31
5.8 ** Combustion Lente Mixed 65m, 4

Though not visible from the bottom, the climb continues up for a second pitch.

Look for some blocky rock that leads up into a blocky crack, and eventually a left-facing corner with a crack in the back. Start at the base of this.

  1. 33m 5.8 Climb blocky rock to a high first piece, then up to the lovely crack in the corner. Clip one of the bolts on the anchor off to the left, and a 2nd bolt on the slab to a bolted anchor.

  2. 32m 5.8 Climb up through the dirt and trees off the anchor to better rock above. Though not obvious, a number of small placements will appear, generally when needed. Clip 4 bolts along the way, and finish at a cedar at the top.

Descent: walk-off, or lower-off the cedar (may need to bring leaver-gear, no fixed anchor/gear on tree.)

Usually only the first pitch is climbed, often stopping short at the anchor to the left, before the slab. The 2nd pitch is a bit dirty, lichen-covered, with occasional smatterings of pine needles, but is good climbing after the initial really dirty bit.

FA: Michel Ouellet, 1996

32
5.9 Illusion Sport 25m, 8

While listed in the guide as "mixte" (mixed, suggesting that gear is needed in some parts, but bolts are used in others), this really climbs as a sport climb. There is no point on the lead where you need to place gear.

33
5.10a Pathfinder Sport 25m, 8
34
5.10b Lucky Luke Sport 24m, 10

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1996

35
5.8 Beaujolais Nouveau Mixed 20m, 1

Look for a right-facing corner at the top of the cliff. This climb starts below it.

Climb up easy going to a single bolt, then follow the zig-zag crack to the obvious right-facing corner in the skyline. Climb up the corner to the slab above, and anchors.

36
5.8 Le "Speech" de Gaétan Sport 20m, 6

Obvious bolted line between the two cracks of Beaujolais Nouveau and Chute LIbre.

FA: Simon Brunet, Gaétan Castilloux, 1998

37
5.8 Chute Libre Mixed 20m, 1

FA: Simon Brunet, Olivier Sofer, 1996

38
5.11c Les Petits Chiens "Zigneurs" Mixed 20m, 4
39
5.12c Le Tailleur de Pierre Sport 22m, 6
40
5.7 Triplets Trad 22m

Climb starts up a block corner above a small ledge about a foot above the ground, then branches to an obvious crack heading up and left from the corner. When this peters out, step left to a second crack in the upper part of the climb. Follow this until it disappears (last gear) then run it out up the slab to the anchors.

Guide indicates two bolts -- but they don't exist (as of June 2014). Finish is a bit run-out above last piece.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1996

41
5.4 La Motte Trad 15m

Climb the same block corner above the small ledge that Triplets starts up, but continue up the corner and rightwards towards a shared anchor.

42

Climb the blocky face right of "La Motte" past one block to the shared anchor.

43
5.8 Le Retour des Loups-Garous Sport 20m, 6

Climb the bolted face right of the blocky corner through some thin slab to the shared anchor. Or continue on to the higher anchor (2 more bolts) for some more lovely friction climbing. 9 bolts / 25m for longer variant.

FA: Laurent Cloutier & Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

44
5.5 Le Marchand de Sable Mixed 16m, 1

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet & Lucie Laforest, 1997

45
5.4 Les Trolls Mixed 15m, 3
46
5.4 Les Farfadets Mixed 15m, 2
47

Not great gear.

FA: Lucie Laforest, Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

48

It shares anchors with "Kenneth le Grand Inquisiteur".

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

49
5.3 Bill le Crapaud Trad 12m

First gear is high, but takes a few decent placements.

FA: Lucie Laforest et Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

50
5.4 Planete Halloween Top rope 12m

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

51
5.4 L'Apprenti Sorcier Top rope 12m

FA: Lucie Laforest et Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

52
5.6 Fantomas Top rope 12m

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

53
5.9 ** Imbroglio Sport 58m, 10

This climb is above the lower (right) end of the main Grand Canyon wall.

From the bottom of the canyon, hike along the small trail rightwards, until it doubles-back (with fixed rope) up some 3rd class slab, as you would if you were going to set top-ropes for the main Grand Canyon walls. As you finish the roped slab, and come out near the top of the first climbs, look right (down into canyon is left) and you will see a bolted anchor, and bolts heading up from there. This is where the climb starts.

Actualy the route climbs in 3 pitchs and raps in 2 pitches with one 60m rope ( there is a dedicated rap station quite directely under the top anchor) P1 slab & easy climb to a blind belay on the RIGHT under evergreen trees, P2 leads to the base of the more vertical wall P3 traverse left to start climbing right facing corner and up the crack to top belay

Enjoy the view.