La Petite Bière All sport climbing3 routes in cliff
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This is an easy slab, head out left of the stairs at the main reception area, for about 20m to the obvious easy-angled slab.
This is a great first-climb for beginners, or first-lead for someone who has never sport-led before. Otherwise, it tends to get climbed as a more enjoyable way to get to Grand Canyon (and other cliffs up higher) than climbing the stairs would be.
(As of mid-summer 2011, more bolting seems to have been done on this area than described in the 2009 edition of the guide, or than existed at the end of 2010.)
Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent
The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.
On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.
The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.
A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.
Easy -- about 1 minute from the campfire/reception area.
Rappel, or walk down the stairs, or free solo down the face.