A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
David Gibbs L-P Christian Dechamplain Andrew P Neil Gorman Gabe L Simon McMillan Isaac ste-marie Justin
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Les autres bières
9 in Crag
- 1.1. (First Other Beer) 1 in Cliff
- 1.2. La fourmilière / (Second other beer) 8 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Les autres bières 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
description
If you continue to follow the path left from the base of "La Petite Bière" you will come to this pair of crags. There used to be a sigh pointing the way to "Les autres bières", but that sign seems to have disappeared.
access issues
The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $14 as of summer 2021, and yearly memberships ($70 as of 2021). Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members of certain sections may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.
On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.
The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.
A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.
approach
Easy - walk left past little beer.
1.1. (First Other Beer) 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
description
The first cliff you pass on your right towards "La fourmilière", it has become overgrown -- but there is a right-rising nearly horizontal crack ending in an anchor obscured by the trees.
approach
A minute left of little beer along the obvious trail.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
(unknwon)
The gently rising traverse crack in the cliff. Now tending towards over-grown. | 1 |
1.2. La fourmilière 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
A small cliff with a few easy sport routes.
approach
From the main reception area, walk left past the obvious tall but gentle slab of La Petite Biere following the obvious path, after passing the small cliff with the nearly-horizontal crack in it (on the right) look up and right for a small cliff -- climb up the wet/loose path to the right end of the cliff, or continue along the path a bit further before turning right & walking up to the cliff.
descent notes
Lower off or rappel.
history
An initial route was put in by unknown/unrecorded climbers sometime before 2012, then most of the routes were put up by Laurent Cloutier and Suzanne Chamberland in 2015.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Pet de fourmis
Left-most route. FA: Laurent Cloutier & Suzanne Chamberland | 5.5 | 14m, 4 | |||
2 | ★ La cigale et la fourmi | 5.6 | 16m, 5 | |||
3 | ★ Parmis les fourmis | 5.6 | 14m, 5 | |||
4 |
★ La zizanie des fourmis
Climbs up a groove to pass a small roof on the right side, then finish leftward. | 5.5 | 14m, 5 | |||
5 |
C'est fourmi-fourmidable
The left-facing flake and crack system a bit right of the center of the cliff. The MdA guidebook (2017 edition) lists the FA of this as being "21 aout 2015 - Laurent Cloutier et Suzanne Chamberland", likely the first ascent after cleaning and bolting. It was free-soloed by David Gibbs on July 22, 2012, and likely climbed before that as well. | 5.3 | 14m, 5 | |||
6 |
★ C'est fourmidable
Starts up a left-facing corner with a crack underneath -- some pleasant lay-back climbing -- to a slab finish. | 5.4 | 15m, 6 | |||
7 |
★ Atomas: la fourmi atomique
The bolted route a couple meters right of the flake. A steeper slabby start to easier, but pleasant, climbing above. | 5.8 | 15m, 6 | |||
8 |
★★ Le fourmi-lion fait le ménage
An even steeper slab start than the climb to the left, and more sustained at the grade, eases off after the 4th bolt. | 5.8 | 15m, 6 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | Area | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.3 | C'est fourmi-fourmidable | 14m, 5 | 1.2. La fourmilière | |||
5.4 | ★ | C'est fourmidable | 15m, 6 | 1.2. La fourmilière | ||
5.5 | ★ | La zizanie des fourmis | 14m, 5 | 1.2. La fourmilière | ||
Pet de fourmis | 14m, 4 | 1.2. La fourmilière | ||||
5.6 | ★ | La cigale et la fourmi | 16m, 5 | 1.2. La fourmilière | ||
★ | Parmis les fourmis | 14m, 5 | 1.2. La fourmilière | |||
5.8 | ★ | Atomas: la fourmi atomique | 15m, 6 | 1.2. La fourmilière | ||
★★ | Le fourmi-lion fait le ménage | 15m, 6 | 1.2. La fourmilière | |||
? | (unknwon) | 1 | 1.1. (First Other Beer) |