Site navigation

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is the please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Description

A small cliff with a few easy sport routes.

Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Approach

From the main reception area, walk left past the obvious tall but gentle slab of La Petite Biere following the obvious path, after passing the small cliff with the nearly-horizontal crack in it (on the right) look up and right for a small cliff -- climb up the wet/loose path to the right end of the cliff, or continue along the path a bit further before turning right & walking up to the cliff.

Descent notes

Lower off or rappel.

History

View historical timeline

An initial route was put in by unknown/unrecorded climbers sometime before 2012, then most of the routes were put up by Laurent Cloutier and Suzanne Chamberland in 2015.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

The left-facing flake and crack system a bit right of the center of the cliff.

The MdA guidebook (2017 edition) lists the FA of this as being "4 juillet 2015 - Laurent Cloutier et Suzanne Chamberland", likely the first ascent after cleaning and bolting. It was free-soloed by David Gibbs on July 23, 2012.

The bolted route a couple meters right of the flake.

A steeper slabby start to easier, but pleasant, climbing above.

Activity

Check out what is happening in La fourmilière.