A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Montagne d'Argent 235 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -74.675458, 46.132280

Unique Features And Strengths:

A large selection of climbs on good granite, usually with well maintained trails, anchors, and top-cliff access for setting top-ropes in many areas.

Description:

Montagne D'argent is a climbing and hiking area near the town of La Conception, Quebec. Or, a more known land mark would be that it is not far from the Mont Tremblant ski area.

There are a number of well-developed cliffs on generally good quality granite.

Web site: http://www.montagnedargent.com/ (French)

Oh, and one oddity -- the guide book uses a one to 4 star rating for trad climbs to represent the quality of the protection, not the route. (This is a new and different thing I have seen nowhere else.)

Further more, it should be noted that the history of Montagne d'Argent is directly related to the owner-operator, Gaetan Castilloux, who, had initially purchased the property and subsequently transfered the property to the community of La Conception as a non-profit organisation. Mr. Castilloux is also responsible for the cleaning and opening of the majority of the crags.

A brief narrative of the history is available in the for-purchase guidebook of the area (all proceeds go directly to the P.E.R.M.A and serve to maintain the access and quality of climbs and services on site.)

As of recently, Mr. Castilloux as become the head of Section for the Laurentides section of the Canadian Alpine Club.

The local climbing community would also like to extend it's thanks for his contribution of this vastly popular and visited site.

All photo topos have been removed at the request of Gaetan Castilloux. Please buy the guide book at the registration area for topos of the climbs.

Access Issues:

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Approach:

Map your way to: 950 Rte de la Montagne D'Argent, La Conception, Québec.

Google maps link(may have to cut & past link, rather than click through): http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=950+Rue+de+la+Montagne+d'Argent,+la+conception,+Quebec&hl=en&ie=UTF8&sll=46.123493,-74.677484&sspn=0.010009,0.022724&z=16

Hike up the obvious small road to the hut (a minute or so), then after registering, hike to the various cliffs from there.

Where To Stay:

Camping is available at the park for a fee ($8/night as of 2014) -- or it is free with annual pass.

There is no drinking water available, so make sure to bring enough water for your stay.

History:

The complete history is available in the official guidebook, available at La Montagne d'Argent or in stores like MEC, La Cordée... etc.

1.1. Supercrackspot 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Croc Pop 5.9Trad 15m
2 L'inutile 5.12+Trad 15m
3 Cric 5.9Trad 15m
4 Sablonde

FA: Simon Brunette et sa blonde, 2001

5.9Trad 15m
5 Croc 5.9Trad 15m
6 Ericsaispas

FA: Ouvreur et secondeur, 2001

5.9Trad 15m
7 Crac 5.9Trad 15m
8 C-bon 5.9Trad 15m

1.2. Paroi du Lac 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

A 10-15m high cliff just above a small lake. There are picnic tables down at the lake, and a small swimming area, for a nice break on a hot summer day. Also, generally shady. Cliff-top for setting top-ropes is easily achieved from the right end.

Note: despite the guide indicating top anchors for most of the climbs, in fact most of the climbs anchor on trees. Be prepared for this when leading.

Approach:

Up the stairs left of the registration area, hike up through the Grand Canyon, then follow the lake trail from there. Walk past "Vertigineux", and down the trail a bit and the cliff will be obvious to the right.

Descent Notes:

Easily walk off the cliff at climber's right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Le retour de Superman

At the left end of the cliff, look for a line of bolts up fairly smooth looking face, with a horizontal crack about 3m up.

5.11aSport 11m, 4
2 Crinque encore!

Slightly right-sloping crack up the face near the left end of the cliff.

5.9Trad 11m
3 Dick Tracy 5.9Sport 10m, 4
4 Jos-Bras-de-Fer 5.7Trad 11m
5 Spadlamarde

Starts up the same crack as Jos-Bras-de-Fer, then branches right and follows bolts to the top.

5.10aMixed 13m, 5
6 Travail d'équipe

May no longer be climbable -- boulder that held anchors is lieing at the bottom of the cliff, and I think as of 2012 one or two bolts are, also, missing hangars.

5.10bSport 13m, 4
7 Tatanade

Look for a stepped rock heading up with bolts on the face. Climb the steps to the top. Anchor on tree(s). (A couple trees hanging over the top edge have slings on them -- but they looked pretty tatty when I climbed it late August 2011. I chose to anchor on trees back from the edge.)

(Book [2009] says 6 bolts, but diagram only shows 4, and I think I only saw 4 on the cliff in summer 2011.)

edit - 8-27-2012 - 98 percent of routes at La Paroie du Lac are natural anchors (ropegunner)

5.8Sport 14m, 4
8 Guepe

Climbing up the easy stepped rock to the right of "Tatanade" to a pair of bolts. Continue up the ramp left of the bolts then around right above them. (Going directly up the face where the bolts are is at least 5.10+.)

(Guide says 4 bolts, diagram shows 3 but lowest doesn't exit; only 2 are in the rock. Anchor on tree(s).)

5.6Mixed 14m, 2
9 Tigre des bois

At the base, there is a waist-height seperated flake. Step onto this, then forward onto the cliff to the first bolts. Up past two bolts to a thin crack (gear section -- small gear needed, don't bother hauling anything big up this climb). Follow the crack upwards and right for a bit, to two more bolts. Anchor on tree(s).

5.6Mixed 13m, 4
10 Shagydelic

Bolt line at the far right end of the cliff. Up slightly mossy steps to shelf, traverse a bit left & clip. Left of the bolts above a lip, then angle rightwards following the bolts. Anchor on tree(s).

5.5Sport 13m, 4

1.3. Vertigineux 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown
Description:

A pleasant face about 15m high. Tends to be mostly in the shade. Near the right end (normal approach end) of the cliff is a boulder pile that includes on long narrow projecting arm. (From the front, it looks surprisingly like the front of a Klingon bird of prey star ship.)

Approach:

Up the stairs left of the registration area, hike up through the Grand Canyon, then follow the lake trail from there. This is the first cliff that appears right beside the trail after the Grand Canyon. Maybe 30 minutes, but good trail.

Descent Notes:

Easily walk off the cliff to climber's right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Ilaria Alpi 5.10Trad 15m
2 *** Le Rocket

Near the left end of the cliff, look for a pair of nearly parallel right-leaning cracks that ascend the cliff. Climb these.

5.8Trad 15m
3 *** Le Beau-frère

Leftwards up the small finger-crack left of "Boris" to the obvious right-leaning crack that it meats in a triangle, then continue up and right to trees.

5.8Trad 14m
4 *** Boris

The obvious right-facing flake and cracks with rough rock near the right-end of the cliff.

5.7Mixed 14m, 1
5 Conjonction de cellulaire

First set of bolts, just to the left the boulder pile with the projecting finger, and to the right of the huge, right-pointing flake/crack that is "Boris".

FA: Eric Mercier Simon Langelier

5.9Sport 14m, 5
6 Sans nom entre la 3 et la 4 ???

Looking at the cliff, there is no real space for a route between 3 and 4. There is a project given between 2 & 3, this might be referring to that climb???

5.9Unknown 14m

1.4. Les Mousquetaires 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Artagnan 5.10cTrad 12m
2 Porthos 5.9Trad 12m
3 Aramis 5.9Trad 12m

1.5. Antre du Dragon 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * La Saint-Georges

Climb the hand to off-width crack on the left side of the cliff. 5.10b if you stick to the main crack at the top, climbing the off-width section, only 5.10a if you use the 2nd crack.

FA: Jose Dionisio, Anne-Marie Cournoyer, 1996

5.10bTrad 20m
2 La Saint-Arnould

Climb the thin face to the right of the crack that is "La Saint-Georges",

FA: Jean-Pierre Ferron, Claude Picard, 1996

5.13aMixed 20m, 3
3 ** La Saint-Ambroise

Climb the series of flakes up the bolt line that is to the left of the obvious shallow dihedral up the center of the wall.

FA: Jose Dionisio, Anne-Marie Cournoyer, Michel Bolduc, 1996

5.9Sport 20m, 6
4 * La Griffon

There is an obvious shallow groove in the center of the cliff, with three bolts leading up to it. Traverse in to the first bolt from the left, then up the bolted section to the crack (small gear) following it up then right to the shared anchor with "La Gaillarde".

FA: Michel Bolduc, Anne-Marie Courvoyer, Jose Dionisio, 1996

5.9Mixed 25m, 3
5 * La Gaillarde

The thin crack that widens at the top, right of La Griffon.

Traverse in across the base of La Griffon, clipping its first bolt, then up the crack that starts steep and fingers and eventually both softens angle and widens to hands/big hands. Takes gear in a wide variety of sizes.

FA: Anne-Marie Courvoyer, Michel Bolduc, Jose Dionisio, 1996

5.8Mixed 25m, 1
6 La Joyeuse

The thin bolted face between the thin crack and the large flake.

FA: Jean-Pierre Ferron, Jose Dionisio, 1995

5.12dMixed 25m, 3
7 ** L'Ecaille du Dragon

Climb the obvious huge curving flake, initially stemming, then pulling up onto the top of the flake, then proceed up the slab above to anchors.

FA: Jose Dionisio, Anne-Marie Cournoyer, 1995

5.8Mixed 25m, 3
8 Le Combat

This route is not in the 2009 guide book.

5.11Unknown 15m
9 Coup d'Epee

This route is not in the 2009 edition of the guide book.

5.10dUnknown 15m
10 Le repos du Guerrier

This route is not in the 2009 version of the guide book.

5.7Unknown 15m

1.6. Dame Nature 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

Dame Nature is a fairly short (maximum 15m) mostly overhanging wall on the opposite side of the canyon that runs along the base of the Grand Canyon wall, near the top end of the canyon.

Approach:

Climb the stairs from the base area, follow the trail upwards, branch rightwards at the sign for Grand Canyon, hike up along the base of Grand Canyon until you spot the obvious overhanging face on the left -- about 2/3s of the way up the canyon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bobette Man

This climb is at the left end of the cliff -- the left-most cleaned section of the cliff.

Start by scrambling up onto the obvious large ledge, then up the bolt line that starts leftwards before curving back to the right, to a two-bolt anchor.

5.10cSport 15m, 5
2 Caterina

FA: Emmanuel Crevier & Jiri Le Tcheque, 2005

5.11aSport 15m, 4
3 Hostie de Power 5.12cSport 15m, 5
4 Dame Nature 5.12bSport 15m, 5
5 Le Bossu 5.12aMixed 15m, 2
6 Henriette D'Angeville 5.11aSport 15m, 4
7 Ta mère en shorts 5.10aSport 12m, 4

1.7. Grand Canyon 53 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Top Rope
Description:

A moderately high, long wall not far from the welcome area. The climbing is generally less than vertical to near vertical, and in most cases the cruxes of the climbs tend to come as the cliff rolls off at the top and the rock becomes less and less featured at that point.

Much of the cliff-top is accessible for setting top-ropes on the routes, with there being guide ropes & cabling along much of it to make it safer.

Approach:

Climb the stairs (or Little Beer) to the back and left of the welcome area, then follow the obvious trail up until it branches, taking the right branch (signed for Grand Canyon) and continue the hike up into the canyon.

Not more than 10 minutes from the welcome area,

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Sloggo

At the far left (upper) end of the canyon, this large crack system starts by gently angling upwards as it traverses left, then goes to straight up, and finally curves back to the right.

THis is, also, almost never climbed, and is totally covered in moss and dead leaves. It would need at least a moderate cleaning before being climbed.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.5Trad 16m
2 Le Castor Bricoleur

Starts out on a blocky crack that climbs up to a large ledge. From the ledge climb a left-facing corner with a crack at the pack that then transitions to a right-facing corner with the same, widening as one climbs, crack at the back of it.

FA: Jeane-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.7Trad 22m
3 * Invitation Mixte

A few meters right of "Le Castor Bricoleur" is a steeper thinner crack, with a bolt just at the sky line. Climb up the (initially blocky), but eventually thinning down to shallow fingers crack, which disappears at the bolt, then up the friction slab above (4 bolts) to the anchors.

FA: Sylvain Vezina & Jean-Pierre Ferron, 1996

5.10bMixed 22m, 4
4 La Belle de Cadix

Starts behind a pair of trees, and ends just below a tree as well. Climb the bolt line over some thin holds for the grade.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1996

5.7Sport 14m, 4
5 Y'a d'la Joie 5.5Trad 14m
6 La Tactique du Gendarme

Looking for a set of three bolts angling up and leftwards, on an almost ramp-like area of rock. Needs gear for the upper section/finish.

5.6Mixed 20m, 3
7 Madame la Marquise

Look for a pair of left-arching cracks at the top of the cliff -- this climb starts below and right of them.

Climb the blocky crack to the left-arching crack and finish up and left through them. A bit run-out at the end.

5.6Trad 20m
8 Frenesie 5.9Mixed 15m, 2
9 Last Call 5.10dMixed 15m, 5
10 ** Le Bogue de l'An 2000

While listed as a 40m climb in the guide, and it can be climbed as such, there is a 2-bolt anchor at the end of the interesting climbing at about 28m. The crack continues from there, but it is very dirty, mossy, and treed.

5.9Trad 28m
11 Titanicomanie 5.8Mixed 38m, 3
12 La Valse des Temps Modernes

A variant finish for Titanicomanie which makes the route sport the whole way.

5.9Sport 38m, 8
13 * Rav - 4

Starts below a low roof with orange rock below the roof.

Climb up pulling the roof, to technical slab climbing above, with holds getting thinner as one finishes around the top of the steep section.

After climbing to anchors, can then extend to share top/second pitch of "La Valse des Temps Modernes" (5.9) -- but the interesting climbing is done by then. About 38m to the top anchors.

5.10bSport 20m, 10
14 La danse de l'Ours 5.12aSport 14m, 4
15 Mephisto 5.11dMixed 25m, 3
16 Les Acrobates de l'Espace 5.7Trad 25m
17 *** Les Funambules du Ciel

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.7Trad 25m
18 Les Heros de la Voltige

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.7Trad 24m
19 Cinquante Roc - Coeurs

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet & Laurent Cloutier, 1998

5.9Trad 40m
20 Souris Chauve

FA: Gaétan Castilloux, 1996

5.10bSport 34m, 9
21 Enfin Seche

(As of 08/2013, a bolt is missing a hanger on this route, and it is in the crux section.)

5.10aMixed 34m, 9
22 Super Crackpot 5.8Mixed 35m, 5
23 La Cha-cha des Félins

FA: Jean-Claude Néolet, 1998

5.9Sport 28m, 7
24 Garantie Prolongee 5.10aMixed 30m, 6
25 La Voie de Pooh

Start at the same wide crack as Garantie Prolonge, but instead head up and right along rising edges and traverses, across La Vente Eticquette Rouge, Piglet, and finally turning up and slightly left to finish up the upper section of Le Sacre du Printemps.

Gear for the traverse is tricky to spot in advance, and sometimes to place, but is all there. (1 bolt borrowed from Piglet.)

Lower-off is a bit more then 30m from the high anchor.

5.7Mixed 40m, 2
26 La Vente Etiquette Rouge 5.11aMixed 30m, 5
27 * Piglet

FA: Jose Dionisio, 1997

5.9Sport 25m, 7
28 Le Sacre du Printemps

High anchor at top is about a 32m lower.

It may be possible to step right to the anchor for Crocodile and lower-off with a 60m. (From the top anchor, a 60m rope and rope stretch may get you to the ground, depending on amount of rope stretch.)

5.9Mixed 32m, 1
29 Crocodile

Climb leftwards up blocky rock to a steep left-angling widish crack. Pull through, then finish with the usual Grand Canyon thin moves at the top (bolts).

5.9Mixed 25m, 3
30 Mauvaise Herbe 5.10cSport 25m, 5
31 ** Combustion Lente

Though not visible from the bottom, the climb continues up for a second pitch.

Look for some blocky rock that leads up into a blocky crack, and eventually a left-facing corner with a crack in the back. Start at the base of this.

  1. 33m 5.8 Climb blocky rock to a high first piece, then up to the lovely crack in the corner. Clip one of the bolts on the anchor off to the left, and a 2nd bolt on the slab to a bolted anchor.

  2. 32m 5.8 Climb up through the dirt and trees off the anchor to better rock above. Though not obvious, a number of small placements will appear, generally when needed. Clip 4 bolts along the way, and finish at a cedar at the top.

Descent: walk-off, or lower-off the cedar (may need to bring leaver-gear, no fixed anchor/gear on tree.)

Usually only the first pitch is climbed, often stopping short at the anchor to the left, before the slab. The 2nd pitch is a bit dirty, lichen-covered, with occasional smatterings of pine needles, but is good climbing after the initial really dirty bit.

FA: Michel Ouellet, 1996

5.8Mixed 65m, 4
32 Illusion

While listed in the guide as "mixte" (mixed, suggesting that gear is needed in some parts, but bolts are used in others), this really climbs as a sport climb. There is no point on the lead where you need to place gear.

5.9Sport 25m, 8
33 Pathfinder 5.10aSport 25m, 8
34 Lucky Luke

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1996

5.10bSport 24m, 10
35 Beaujolais Nouveau

Look for a right-facing corner at the top of the cliff. This climb starts below it.

Climb up easy going to a single bolt, then follow the zig-zag crack to the obvious right-facing corner in the skyline. Climb up the corner to the slab above, and anchors.

5.8Mixed 20m, 1
36 Le "Speech" de Gaétan

Obvious bolted line between the two cracks of Beaujolais Nouveau and Chute LIbre.

FA: Simon Brunet, Gaétan Castilloux, 1998

5.8Sport 20m, 6
37 Chute Libre

FA: Simon Brunet, Olivier Sofer, 1996

5.8Mixed 20m, 1
38 Les Petits Chiens "Zigneurs" 5.11cMixed 20m, 4
39 Le Tailleur de Pierre 5.12cSport 22m, 6
40 Triplets

Climb starts up a block corner above a small ledge about a foot above the ground, then branches to an obvious crack heading up and left from the corner. When this peters out, step left to a second crack in the upper part of the climb. Follow this until it disappears (last gear) then run it out up the slab to the anchors.

Guide indicates two bolts -- but they don't exist (as of June 2014). Finish is a bit run-out above last piece.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1996

5.7Trad 22m
41 La Motte

Climb the same block corner above the small ledge that Triplets starts up, but continue up the corner and rightwards towards a shared anchor.

5.4Trad 15m
42 Le Bonhomme Sept-Heures

Climb the blocky face right of "La Motte" past one block to the shared anchor.

5.4Trad 15m
43 Le Retour des Loups-Garous

Climb the bolted face right of the blocky corner through some thin slab to the shared anchor. Or continue on to the higher anchor (2 more bolts) for some more lovely friction climbing. 9 bolts / 25m for longer variant.

FA: Laurent Cloutier & Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.8Sport 20m, 6
44 Le Marchand de Sable

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet & Lucie Laforest, 1997

5.5Mixed 16m, 1
45 Les Trolls 5.4Mixed 15m, 3
46 Les Farfadets 5.4Mixed 15m, 2
47 Kenneth le Grand Inquisiteur

Not great gear.

FA: Lucie Laforest, Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.4Mixed 12m, 1
48 Les Sorcieres du Bureau Ovale

It shares anchors with "Kenneth le Grand Inquisiteur".

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.5Top rope 12m
49 Bill le Crapaud

First gear is high, but takes a few decent placements.

FA: Lucie Laforest et Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.3Trad 12m
50 Planete Halloween

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.4Top rope 12m
51 L'Apprenti Sorcier

FA: Lucie Laforest et Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.4Top rope 12m
52 Fantomas

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

5.6Top rope 12m
53 ** Imbroglio

This climb is above the lower (right) end of the main Grand Canyon wall.

From the bottom of the canyon, hike along the small trail rightwards, until it doubles-back (with fixed rope) up some 3rd class slab, as you would if you were going to set top-ropes for the main Grand Canyon walls. As you finish the roped slab, and come out near the top of the first climbs, look right (down into canyon is left) and you will see a bolted anchor, and bolts heading up from there. This is where the climb starts.

Actualy the route climbs in 3 pitchs and raps in 2 pitches with one 60m rope ( there is a dedicated rap station quite directely under the top anchor) P1 slab & easy climb to a blind belay on the RIGHT under evergreen trees, P2 leads to the base of the more vertical wall P3 traverse left to start climbing right facing corner and up the crack to top belay

Enjoy the view.

5.9Sport 58m, 10

1.8. Porc-épic 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

Currently (2009 guide) has several listed projects, but no listed routes.

1.9. Les autres bières 3 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

As of yet, no information has been officially published by the P.E.R.M.A for this crag.

1.9.1. (First Other Beer) 1 route in Unknown

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 (unknwon)

This route has not been officially published by the P.E.R.M.A

Unknown 1

1.9.2. (Second other beer) 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 .

This route has not been officially published by the P.E.R.M.A

Unknown
2 ..

This route has not been officially published by the P.E.R.M.A

Unknown

1.10. La Petite Bière 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This is an easy slab, head out left of the stairs at the main reception area, for about 20m to the obvious easy-angled slab.

This is a great first-climb for beginners, or first-lead for someone who has never sport-led before. Otherwise, it tends to get climbed as a more enjoyable way to get to Grand Canyon (and other cliffs up higher) than climbing the stairs would be.

(As of mid-summer 2011, more bolting seems to have been done on this area than described in the 2009 edition of the guide, or than existed at the end of 2010.)

Approach:

Easy -- about 1 minute from the campfire/reception area.

Descent Notes:

Rappel, or walk down the stairs, or free solo down the face.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Premiere biere 5.4Sport 35m, 8
2 * Deuxième bière

FA: Vincent Desrochers, Normand Thibault, 1996

5.3Sport 35m, 8
3 Troisième Bière

FA: Vincent Desrochers, Normand Thibault, 1996

5.4Sport 35m, 9

1.11. La Boite a Surprise 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

The cliff right behind the hut.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pailason

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1999

5.9Sport 16m, 5
2 Le Pirate Maboule

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1999

5.9Sport 16m, 5
3 Michel le magicien

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1999

5.10bSport 16m, 3
4 Piccolo

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1999

5.10bTrad 16m
5 La gardienne

FA: Louis Phillippe Blanchette, 1999

5.8Trad 17m
6 ** Unnamed

An unnamed recently bolted route to the immediate right of La Gardienne. Follow bolt line to the rising traversing crack, bolted rap station at end of climb.

Sport

1.12. Arche de Noway 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

First large cliff on the left as you head rightwards from the hut. It has a large arching cracked runnning horizontally for about 20m at about 20m above the ground, for which the cliff is named.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Colombe

Several meters left and up from the start of Arche de Noway, look for a bolt a short way up the cliff in dark rock, and further bolts moving more leftwards than up. Follow the bolts, trending more leftwards (generally on good holds) rather than up (thin steep slab) for the first 7 or so bolts, then up, then curving slightly back to the right at the top.

A great climb, long sustained climbing at 5.6-5.7 grade, with several 5.8-5.8+ cruxes along the way.

Because it climbs above a gully, it can generally be lead, and leader lowered off into the gully safely on a 60m rope. Can also safely rappel from anchors on a 60m rope. (Note: guide says 55m, but it is not that long. 1/2 mark on 70m rope was about at first bolt, when climber finished climb. So, about 40m.)

5.8Sport 40m, 15
2 Arche de Noway

Look up the cliff (about 20m) for the obvious large arching horizontal crack/overlap. This climb starts on a line of bolts that descends from the right side of the crack, climbs up to the crack on bolts, then follows the arching crack leftwards until close to where it starts to descend, then breaks upwards to anchors.

5.10aMixed 55m, 6
3 La part du lion

Just right of the bolts for L'Arche de Colombe, this set of bolts goes up the mostly smooth looking slab. Rappel anchors part way up, and many people treat this as either a 2-pitch climb, or just climb to the rappel anchors and finish there.

5.10bSport 55m, 9
4 Maudit Serpent

Bolt line about 4m right of Arche de Norway, curves to the right around a flake, then curves back leftwards to bolts.

5.9Sport 25m, 7

1.13. Chateau de Pierre 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Top Rope
Description:

This is a short cliff with all top-rope routes.

Approach:

As you walk right from the hut, this cliff will be on the left shortly after Arche de Norway, but a 100m or so before M&M.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Les oubliettes

Left-most set of anchors. Well, the guide book shows anchors -- but (as of spring 2011) they don't actually exist for this climb. Anchor off a solid looking birch tree.

Seems far harder than 5.8, possibly due to broken holds -- one broke off in my hand while trying to climb it, May 2011.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1997

5.8Top rope 9m
2 Le pont levis

First set of anchors from the left.

FA: Jerome Bureau, 1996

5.6Top rope 10m
3 Le donjon

Climb the blanker section of wall between the two blocky sections.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1997

5.10aTop rope 10m
4 La guillotine

It shares anchors with Le donjon.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1997

5.7Top rope 10m
5 La tourelle

Right-most anchors on the face.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1997

5.7Top rope 10m

1.14. M & M 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Top Rope
Description:

As you follow the main trail right from the hut, this cliff will be about the 3rd cliff on your left -- but the first that is really close to the trail, and will be best recognised by the beautiful parallel splitter cracks up it.

This is an excellent face for crack climbing, and some of the best crack climbing in the region, with multiple solid cracks in solid rock that just take gear extremely well.

It has an obvious face towards the trail (on which the first 4 climbs are situated) that turns gently to angle away from the trail. On this 2nd face, M&M to Psychocrack are located. There is a bit of a seperation, and off to the right, again more parallel to the trail is a 3rd face, on which the final 3 climbs are situated.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Grenouille Toxique 5.10cSport 25m, 8
2 No Sympathy

No Sympathy and Pop Corn start up the same crack on the face that is towards the trail. Near the top of the crack, No Sympathy branches leftwards (with bolts) towards the anchor for Grenouille Toxique (which it shares.)

5.10dMixed 25m, 4
3 Pop Corn

No Sympathy and Pop Corn start up the same crack on the face that is towards the trail. Near the top of the crack, Pop Corn branches right towards the anchors for Sonatine (which it shares).

5.10aMixed 24m, 5
4 Sonatine

The slab between the cracks which are Pop Corn (to the left) and M&M (to the right).

5.12aSport 23m, 8
5 *** M&M

The left-most of the beautiful splitter cracks on this face.

FA: Mathieu Lefebvre & Martin Castilloux, 1994

5.8Trad 23m
6 Conviction

The blank looking slab to the right of M&M, then angles left to follow a crack towards the (shared) anchors with M&M.

5.13bMixed 23m, 4
7 Lezadomachos 5.9Trad 23m
8 Abrakadakrak 5.10bMixed 23m, 4
9 Corn Flakes

Climb the face between Abracadacrak and Krakabra.

5.11Top rope 25m
10 ** Krakabra

2nd splitter crack from the right side of the face.

5.7Trad 25m
11 Psychoface

Variant on Psychokrak - when the lower crack ends, finish slightly leftwards up the face, rather than switching rightwards to a 2nd crack near the top.

5.10dMixed 25m, 3
12 Psychokrak

Right-most splitter crack on the face.

FA: José Dionisia, Jean-Claude Néolet, 1995

5.10aTrad 25m

The following climbs are not on the main M&M face, but on a different, steeper, face about 20m to the right.

13 (project)

This route is the left-most route on the second face.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 2002

5.10bSport 30m, 8
14 Spooky

FA: Pawel Krol & Oly Parent, 2002

5.10cSport 22m, 7
15 Enfin!

FA: Jean-Pierre Ferron, 1997

5.12aSport 20m, 5

1.15. Controverse 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 La bedaine de Gerard 5.11dSport 25m, 9
2 Les tetons de Grand-papa

An alternate finish to Gerard, branching right after the 3rd bolt.

5.11bMixed 25m, 7
3 Les tetines de Grand-maman 5.11aSport 25m, 10
4 Serpent referendaire

Bolts shown in the MdA guide do not exist. Indicated start is, also, much harder than 5.7 -- it should naturally climb the flake and ramp right of the bulge with the bolt on it, cross over the top of this to the main crack, then up the indicated crack to anchors.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995

5.7Trad 25m
5 Escouade tactile

The lower three bolts in the MdA guide book don't exist on the climb. Look for a high first bolt on a slabby bulge a few meters left of Controverse.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1995

5.10bSport 25m, 6
6 controverse

A lovely close-bolted climb that is tough at its grade. From the main ledge, climb the left side of the slab, then angle left-wards, up the face to a ledge on the right, up onto another ledge to its left, then up to the anchors.

5.8Sport 25m, 10
7 friction constitutionnelle

Climbs up the center line of bolts up the slab just off the main ledge -- starting with a small indented dish, and staying on or slight left of the 3rd bolt for full value. After the third bolt, go straight back, clipping the bolt slight right (and ignoring the stray bolt to the left -- it is on no climb). A nice couple of friction moves near the bolt, then an easy walk to the anchors in the head wall..

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995

5.8Sport 15m, 4
8 nagasaki

A nice introduction to friction climbing, though sparsely bolted. Follow the right-most set of bolts from the main Controverse ledge.

The 2nd bolt as indicated in the MdA guidebook does not exist, but there are several options for a good gear placement (red tri-cam or similar sized nut) at that point which is advised to avoid the ground-fall potential.

Not recommended for someone leading at/near their limit.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995

5.6Sport 20m, 3
9 hiroshima

Start right of Nagasaki, and climb to the obvious crack in the first face, over top of this, angle up and rightwards along the base of the overlap, then eventually turn left and up to the anchors.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995

5.5Trad 30m
10 La cheminee du Pere Noel

This climb is above the main cliff, and is best approached by climbing Hiroshima.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995

5.5Trad 12m

1.15.1. Right of Controverse 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Just right of the main Controverse area there is a small, very gentle, face with a couple bolted routes on it.

These appear to be intended as utter beginner/learning routes -- incredibly closely bolted and very easy climbing.

This area is not described, nor are the routes named, in the most recent (as of this entry, 2009) guide book for Montagne d'Argent.

From Controverse ledge, climb over the large roof boulder and you'll see these to the right, or continue a bit farther down the main trail past controverse, and then look leftwards off the trail for a gently, low, slab area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 (unnamed 1)

Starts at the left leg of the face and goes up that side over a series of easy block ledges. It is very close-bolted, too.

This is probably the easiest bolted route I have ever seen, and I've done (unprotected) approaches and down-climbs that were more difficult.

5.0Sport
2 (unnamed 2)

Up the arrete on the right leg/side of the face. Closely spaced bolts.

5.0Sport

1.16. Hippocampe 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

This is a striking face dominated by a sharp right-facing arete.

Approach:

Take the main trail right out of the initial encampment until you see the sign for the L'Hippocampe, at which point branch lef and up along this small rough trail.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Morticia & Gomez 5.5Trad 40m
2 Juliette & Romeo

Direct finish for Morticia & Gomez -- rather than exiting leftwards.

5.6Trad 40m
3 Blocs Lego 5.8Trad 20m
4 Ptosys 5.11cSport 20m, 8
5 Myosis 5.11aSport 20m, 7
6 L'hippocampe

Start from the belay at the end of the 1st pitch of "Ligne d'acier", climb the crack straight up from the belay as it curves up and right, then continuing crack system left of the arete.

5.10bTrad 20m
7 Derniere Minute 5.10aMixed 15m, 2
8 Ligne d'acier

Climb the face left of the obvious crack to a belay on the ledge. Then move right and up to the arete and continue up the arete, staying on the left side of the arete, to the top.

5.11cSport 40m, 15
9 ** L'hypothenuse

The lovely crack that starts right facing and curves to almost vertical along the right side of the front face of the cliff.

5.7Trad 14m
10 ** L'arete des Urubus

This route is, essentially, the 2nd pitch of "L'hypothenuse" -- it starts at the anchors for L'hypothenuse, then follows bolts up the right side of the obvious striking arete.

5.10bSport 22m, 8
11 L'envers de l'arete

This is the first deep crack along the right side of the cliff. (Name means "the other side of the arete".)

There are a couple 2nd-pitch projects for this route.

5.10bTrad 15m
12 Les p'tits mononc

The next obvious deep crack along the right side of the cliff as you head a bit uphill.

Longer than 30m, descend by rappelling on of the other routes to the left in two stages.

5.11dTrad
13 Tally-Ho

A little farther uphill is another big crack, but rather than having smooth edges, this one has lots of big rough edges. Also, overhanging.

5.11bSport

1.17. Paroi Oblique 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

This is the extension of the right-side of "Hippocampe" farther up the canyon.

Approach:

Approach as per "Hippocampe", then continue up the canyon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gobelin 5.7Trad 18m
2 Sevrage 5.10bSport 11m, 5
3 Super Musclor 5.12cSport 14m, 5
4 Wunderbar 5.10dSport 15m, 6
5 Fudge 5.10cSport 15m, 4
6 Goglu 5.10bSport 15m, 5
7 Timbits 5.11bSport 15m, 4
8 Oreo 5.5Trad 19m

1.18. L'Amphitheatre 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

This cliff is fairly high up, facing outwards at the top of the wide gulley defined by "Hyppocampe" and "Paroi Oblique" on the left and "Le fou" and some more broken rock leftwards and above it on the right.

It is a gorgeous and impressive face with a couple of overhanging wide cracks on the main face.

Approach:

Walk along the trail rightwards until you see the turn off for "Hypocampe", hike up to and past it, then past "Paroi Oblique", until you come to the face across the top of the canyon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Trinity 5.10bSport 12m, 6
2 Le complexe du "Corn Flakes" 5.13Sport 12m, 5
3 Mechante Chicane

The obvious wide crack that goes most directly up the center of the main face.

5.12aTrad 20m
4 La chicane de Paul

On the main face, there is a clear crack that goes up to a very clear right angle turn where the right side wall turns into a roof. Follow across this roof, then back right and up bolts to the top.

5.12dMixed 20m, 3
5 Meo penche 5.10cSport 20m, 7
6 Petite Chicane 5.9Trad 20m
7 Biscuits 5.11dMixed 20m, 7
8 Dad's 5.10bSport 20m, 7

1.19. Le fou 31 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

The base of the fou slopes upwards from right to left, and the approach starts at the base -- so the first climbs you see are the last ones in the list.

Many of the climbs are single pitch -- but, above the lower face, there is a defnite ledge with a couple bumps, then upper walls. This does mean there are a few multi-pitch climbs, generally totalling up to 60m.

Approach:

Follow the path out the right side of the welcome area, until you see a sign for Le Fou at a trail branching off to the left. The cliff is just visible through the trees from the main trail, though some of the upper parts may be more visible.

About 15 minutes.

Descent Notes:

Generally lower from anchors.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 fille du roi 5.4Trad 15m
2 * Boeing

At the top end of the fou, look for the flake bolted to the wall.

5.9Sport 12m, 6
3 ** Cracker Joe

This is the obvious left-leaning ramp with a crack running up the right-side of the crack. It protects very well.

5.9Trad 11m
4 ** Exacto

Start up the crack of Cracker Joe, then traverse right with a good under-cling to the arete with lovely flakes up the arete.

5.10dSport 15m, 6
5 Twins Tower Nord 5.11bSport 16m, 6
6 Twins Tower Sud 5.11bSport 16m, 7
7 Siege ejectable

The thinnest line at the Fou crag.

5.12bSport 17m, 6
8 Foubrak 5.11cMixed 20m, 4
9 Lapedioni 5.11aMixed 35m, 8
10 Quantum Plouk 5.11bSport 17m, 4
11 Anubis 5.10dSport 25m, 4
12 Long Life 5.10bMixed 30m, 5
13 Tranquilos

Starts as per Long Life, then branches right after the first bolt.

5.8Sport 25m, 5
14 Super Bam 5.11dSport 30m, 3
15 La petite Delphine 5.8Mixed 50m, 5
16 * La valse des retraités

Bolts: 8, 4

FA: Gaétan Casyilloux

5.9Mixed 45m, 12
17 Merlin 5.11bSport 20m, 6
18 Crystaligne 5.11Sport 20m, 6
19 Womatagna 5.12aSport
20 Maudit Fou 5.10bMixed 60m, 13
21 ** Maudit Fou - Pitch 1

The first pitch of Maudit Fou is often climbed as an independent climb.

5.10bSport
22 ** Lollypops 5.11bSport 60m
23 Lollypops - Pitch 1

The first pitch of Lollypops is often climbed as an independent climb.

5.9Sport 9
24 * Krakatoa

Alternate final pitch for Le centenaire -- go left to a crack, rather than right at the top of the 2nd pitch.

5.9Sport 25m, 6
25 * Le centenaire

3 pitches, with short walks between pitches/sections. The middle pitch is quite short. Bolts: 6, 3, 8.

FA: Gaétan Castilloux, René Laplante, 2003

5.8Sport 75m, 8
26 Directe du Fou 5.10dMixed 20m, 5
27 *** Diagonale du fou

FA: Gaetant & Nancy

5.8Mixed 60m, 5
28 fou du roi

FA: José Dionisio et Anne-Marie Cournoyer

5.10bMixed 20m, 5
29 Jipifer 5.13bSport 20m, 6
30 Coeur vaillant 5.10bMixed 20m, 1
31 L'entonnoir 5.9Trad 25m

1.20. La Petite Folie 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Top Rope
Description:

This cliff has a tall (30+m) easy slab, with a few tough routes on a more vertical cliff just to the right.

Approach:

From the main entrance, take the path to the right, past M&M, and the Fou. Turn left at the marked side-trail, and walk a short distance to the cliff.

Mostly flat, easy approach.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Skizomaniac

Start as per Encore!, but after traverse continue left and up a line of bolts.

(spring 2011 -- this route is in the guide book, but doesn't appear to exist. Where it is diagrammed is covered in moss with no signs of bolts nor or the scrubbing that would likely have been done for the first ascent in 2007.)

5.6Sport 30m, 8
2 *** Encore! mon lapin

Start up the obvious crack at the bottom of the face, until it is easy to traverse leftwards (a couple meters up) to the obvious crack running up the left side of the face. Follow this crack to anchors by the tree.

5.4Trad 20m
3 Arrêtez-le quelqu'un!

Effectively 2nd pitch of Encore! Mon Lapin -- it starts at the anchors, then continues up past a couple bolts to another set of anchors. If combined, can lower from the anchors with a 70m rope, despite the total climb being over 35m, because the lower is straight down.

5.5Sport 18m, 2
4 Lapin Agile

Start up the crack as per Encore!, step left at the traverse then up the obvious bolt line up the centre of the slab.

5.5Sport 30m, 9
5 (new bolts 2012, name unknown)

The right-most set of bolts on the easy slab face, this climb goes up easy terrain to a two-bolt anchor.

Stepping sideways to the right from the anchor provides easy access to the top of Hannibal Lecter and other climbs along that face.

5.3Sport 20m, 7
6 Poussinet

Follow the obvious crack from the base of the cliff and just keep going and going.

There is a visible anchor from the base (about 20m) -- but at that point, the route doesn't look to go any further. Maybe it goes up the treed gully for a bit, then becomes climbing again for the 2nd pitch?

5.4Trad 55m
7 Poussinet au Tambour

Start on Poussinet (obvious main crack up the face) to the obvious anchors, at this point follow the obvious trad line up the crack leftwards (the latter part of Le lapin au tambour), back rightwards, then leftwards again to the anchors.

(Can lower with a 70m rope from the anchors, with a meter or so to spare.)

5.4Mixed 38m, 1
8 Le lapin au tambour 5.4Trad 30m
9 Canibal

Doesn't look to be cleaned or climbed, and if there are TR anchors, they aren't visible. Maybe not actually a route?

5.10dTop rope 12m
10 * Hanibal Lecter

Climb in the dihedral (not visible on photograph), up through the overhang, staying right of the overhang, then after topping, left to anchors.

5.9Trad 10m
11 La paume de Boudha

Climb up the bolt line up the arete.

5.10dSport 10m, 4
12 Colonel Kirtz

Climb up the obvious crack to the double crack, then back to a single crack, exiting in front of the tree, with bolted anchor just to the left of the top-out.

5.10aTrad 10m
13 Diedre Maboul

Climb the obvious crack. Anchor on trees.

5.5Trad 17m
14 Dulfer Loufoque

Climb the obvious set of flakes and cracks.

(Spring 2011 -- this route is completely covered in moss, doesn't look like it has been climbed in ages. Looks like it might still be climbable, though, as the holds look pretty solid.)

5.5Trad 18m

1.21. Petit Canyon 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fietan noir 5.9Trad 12m
2 Rock qui roule 5.9Trad 12m
3 Le grand requin 5.10aTrad 12m
4 Crapet-soleil 5.11bMixed 12m, 1
5 Papier 5.8Mixed 10m, 1
6 Roche 5.10cTrad 10m
7 O-64 5.9Trad 17m
8 Bombay 5.9Trad 17m
9 Chicane moi pas! 5.10aTrad 12m
10 Les Mouches 5.11aTrad 20m

1.22. Tresors caches 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Approach:

This cliff is a LONG hike in.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Attaque des grande-peres 5.10aSport 12m, 6
2 Orille 5.9Sport 12m, 5
3 Socrates & Cie 5.10aTrad 45m
4 Maudit philosophe 5.10bTrad 22m
5 Un jour, un jour... Trad
6 ...quand tu viendras Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.0 (unnamed 1) Sport 1.15.1. Right of Controverse
(unnamed 2) Sport 1.15.1. Right of Controverse
5.3 Bill le Crapaud Trad 12m 1.7. Grand Canyon
* Deuxième bière Sport 35m, 8 1.10. La Petite Bière
(new bolts 2012, name unknown) Sport 20m, 7 1.20. La Petite Folie
5.4 Kenneth le Grand Inquisiteur Mixed 12m, 1 1.7. Grand Canyon
L'Apprenti Sorcier Top rope 12m 1.7. Grand Canyon
La Motte Trad 15m 1.7. Grand Canyon
Le Bonhomme Sept-Heures Trad 15m 1.7. Grand Canyon
Les Farfadets Mixed 15m, 2 1.7. Grand Canyon
Les Trolls Mixed 15m, 3 1.7. Grand Canyon
Planete Halloween Top rope 12m 1.7. Grand Canyon
Premiere biere Sport 35m, 8 1.10. La Petite Bière
Troisième Bière Sport 35m, 9 1.10. La Petite Bière
fille du roi Trad 15m 1.19. Le fou
*** Encore! mon lapin Trad 20m 1.20. La Petite Folie
Le lapin au tambour Trad 30m 1.20. La Petite Folie
Poussinet Trad 55m 1.20. La Petite Folie
Poussinet au Tambour Mixed 38m, 1 1.20. La Petite Folie
5.5 Shagydelic Sport 13m, 4 1.2. Paroi du Lac
Le Marchand de Sable Mixed 16m, 1 1.7. Grand Canyon
Les Sorcieres du Bureau Ovale Top rope 12m 1.7. Grand Canyon
*** Sloggo Trad 16m 1.7. Grand Canyon
Y'a d'la Joie Trad 14m 1.7. Grand Canyon
La cheminee du Pere Noel Trad 12m 1.15. Controverse
hiroshima Trad 30m 1.15. Controverse
Morticia & Gomez Trad 40m 1.16. Hippocampe
Oreo Trad 19m 1.17. Paroi Oblique
Arrêtez-le quelqu'un! Sport 18m, 2 1.20. La Petite Folie
Diedre Maboul Trad 17m 1.20. La Petite Folie
Dulfer Loufoque Trad 18m 1.20. La Petite Folie
Lapin Agile Sport 30m, 9 1.20. La Petite Folie
5.6 Guepe Mixed 14m, 2 1.2. Paroi du Lac
Tigre des bois Mixed 13m, 4 1.2. Paroi du Lac
Fantomas Top rope 12m 1.7. Grand Canyon
La Tactique du Gendarme Mixed 20m, 3 1.7. Grand Canyon
Madame la Marquise Trad 20m 1.7. Grand Canyon
Le pont levis Top rope 10m 1.13. Chateau de Pierre
nagasaki Sport 20m, 3 1.15. Controverse
Juliette & Romeo Trad 40m 1.16. Hippocampe
Skizomaniac Sport 30m, 8 1.20. La Petite Folie
5.7 Jos-Bras-de-Fer Trad 11m 1.2. Paroi du Lac
*** Boris Mixed 14m, 1 1.3. Vertigineux
Le repos du Guerrier Unknown 15m 1.5. Antre du Dragon
La Belle de Cadix Sport 14m, 4 1.7. Grand Canyon
La Voie de Pooh Mixed 40m, 2 1.7. Grand Canyon
Le Castor Bricoleur Trad 22m 1.7. Grand Canyon
Les Acrobates de l'Espace Trad 25m 1.7. Grand Canyon
*** Les Funambules du Ciel Trad 25m 1.7. Grand Canyon
Les Heros de la Voltige Trad 24m 1.7. Grand Canyon
Triplets Trad 22m 1.7. Grand Canyon
La guillotine Top rope 10m 1.13. Chateau de Pierre
La tourelle Top rope 10m 1.13. Chateau de Pierre
** Krakabra Trad 25m 1.14. M & M
Serpent referendaire Trad 25m 1.15. Controverse
** L'hypothenuse Trad 14m 1.16. Hippocampe
Gobelin Trad 18m 1.17. Paroi Oblique
5.8 Tatanade Sport 14m, 4 1.2. Paroi du Lac
*** Le Beau-frère Trad 14m 1.3. Vertigineux
*** Le Rocket Trad 15m 1.3. Vertigineux
** L'Ecaille du Dragon Mixed 25m, 3 1.5. Antre du Dragon
* La Gaillarde Mixed 25m, 1 1.5. Antre du Dragon
Beaujolais Nouveau Mixed 20m, 1 1.7. Grand Canyon
Chute Libre Mixed 20m, 1 1.7. Grand Canyon
** Combustion Lente Mixed 65m, 4 1.7. Grand Canyon
Le "Speech" de Gaétan Sport 20m, 6 1.7. Grand Canyon
Le Retour des Loups-Garous Sport 20m, 6 1.7. Grand Canyon
Super Crackpot Mixed 35m, 5 1.7. Grand Canyon
Titanicomanie Mixed 38m, 3 1.7. Grand Canyon
La gardienne Trad 17m 1.11. La Boite a Surprise
** Colombe Sport 40m, 15 1.12. Arche de Noway
Les oubliettes Top rope 9m 1.13. Chateau de Pierre
*** M&M Trad 23m 1.14. M & M
controverse Sport 25m, 10 1.15. Controverse
friction constitutionnelle Sport 15m, 4 1.15. Controverse
Blocs Lego Trad 20m 1.16. Hippocampe
*** Diagonale du fou Mixed 60m, 5 1.19. Le fou
La petite Delphine Mixed 50m, 5 1.19. Le fou
* Le centenaire Sport 75m, 8 1.19. Le fou
Tranquilos Sport 25m, 5 1.19. Le fou
Papier Mixed 10m, 1 1.21. Petit Canyon
5.9 C-bon Trad 15m 1.1. Supercrackspot
Crac Trad 15m 1.1. Supercrackspot
Cric Trad 15m 1.1. Supercrackspot
Croc Trad 15m 1.1. Supercrackspot
Croc Pop Trad 15m 1.1. Supercrackspot
Ericsaispas Trad 15m 1.1. Supercrackspot
Sablonde Trad 15m 1.1. Supercrackspot
Crinque encore! Trad 11m 1.2. Paroi du Lac
Dick Tracy Sport 10m, 4 1.2. Paroi du Lac
Conjonction de cellulaire Sport 14m, 5 1.3. Vertigineux
Sans nom entre la 3 et la 4 ??? Unknown 14m 1.3. Vertigineux
Aramis Trad 12m 1.4. Les Mousquetaires
Porthos Trad 12m 1.4. Les Mousquetaires
* La Griffon Mixed 25m, 3 1.5. Antre du Dragon
** La Saint-Ambroise Sport 20m, 6 1.5. Antre du Dragon
Cinquante Roc - Coeurs Trad 40m 1.7. Grand Canyon
Crocodile Mixed 25m, 3 1.7. Grand Canyon
Frenesie Mixed 15m, 2 1.7. Grand Canyon
Illusion Sport 25m, 8 1.7. Grand Canyon
** Imbroglio Sport 58m, 10 1.7. Grand Canyon
La Cha-cha des Félins Sport 28m, 7 1.7. Grand Canyon
La Valse des Temps Modernes Sport 38m, 8 1.7. Grand Canyon
** Le Bogue de l'An 2000 Trad 28m 1.7. Grand Canyon
Le Sacre du Printemps Mixed 32m, 1 1.7. Grand Canyon
* Piglet Sport 25m, 7 1.7. Grand Canyon
Le Pirate Maboule Sport 16m, 5 1.11. La Boite a Surprise
Pailason Sport 16m, 5 1.11. La Boite a Surprise
Maudit Serpent Sport 25m, 7 1.12. Arche de Noway
Lezadomachos Trad 23m 1.14. M & M
Petite Chicane Trad 20m 1.18. L'Amphitheatre
* Boeing Sport 12m, 6 1.19. Le fou
** Cracker Joe Trad 11m 1.19. Le fou
* Krakatoa Sport 25m, 6 1.19. Le fou
L'entonnoir Trad 25m 1.19. Le fou
* La valse des retraités Mixed 45m, 12 1.19. Le fou
Lollypops - Pitch 1 Sport 9 1.19. Le fou
* Hanibal Lecter Trad 10m 1.20. La Petite Folie
Bombay Trad 17m 1.21. Petit Canyon
Fietan noir Trad 12m 1.21. Petit Canyon
O-64 Trad 17m 1.21. Petit Canyon
Rock qui roule Trad 12m 1.21. Petit Canyon
Orille Sport 12m, 5 1.22. Tresors caches
5.10a Spadlamarde Mixed 13m, 5 1.2. Paroi du Lac
Ta mère en shorts Sport 12m, 4 1.6. Dame Nature
Enfin Seche Mixed 34m, 9 1.7. Grand Canyon
Garantie Prolongee Mixed 30m, 6 1.7. Grand Canyon
Pathfinder Sport 25m, 8 1.7. Grand Canyon
Arche de Noway Mixed 55m, 6 1.12. Arche de Noway
Le donjon Top rope 10m 1.13. Chateau de Pierre
Pop Corn Mixed 24m, 5 1.14. M & M
Psychokrak Trad 25m 1.14. M & M
Derniere Minute Mixed 15m, 2 1.16. Hippocampe
Colonel Kirtz Trad 10m 1.20. La Petite Folie
Chicane moi pas! Trad 12m 1.21. Petit Canyon
Le grand requin Trad 12m 1.21. Petit Canyon
Attaque des grande-peres Sport 12m, 6 1.22. Tresors caches
Socrates & Cie Trad 45m 1.22. Tresors caches
5.10b Travail d'équipe Sport 13m, 4 1.2. Paroi du Lac
* La Saint-Georges Trad 20m 1.5. Antre du Dragon
* Invitation Mixte Mixed 22m, 4 1.7. Grand Canyon
Lucky Luke Sport 24m, 10 1.7. Grand Canyon
* Rav - 4 Sport 20m, 10 1.7. Grand Canyon
Souris Chauve Sport 34m, 9 1.7. Grand Canyon
Michel le magicien Sport 16m, 3 1.11. La Boite a Surprise
Piccolo Trad 16m 1.11. La Boite a Surprise
La part du lion Sport 55m, 9 1.12. Arche de Noway
(project) Sport 30m, 8 1.14. M & M
Abrakadakrak Mixed 23m, 4 1.14. M & M
Escouade tactile Sport 25m, 6 1.15. Controverse
** L'arete des Urubus Sport 22m, 8 1.16. Hippocampe
L'envers de l'arete Trad 15m 1.16. Hippocampe
L'hippocampe Trad 20m 1.16. Hippocampe
Goglu Sport 15m, 5 1.17. Paroi Oblique
Sevrage Sport 11m, 5 1.17. Paroi Oblique
Dad's Sport 20m, 7 1.18. L'Amphitheatre
Trinity Sport 12m, 6 1.18. L'Amphitheatre
Coeur vaillant Mixed 20m, 1 1.19. Le fou
Long Life Mixed 30m, 5 1.19. Le fou
Maudit Fou Mixed 60m, 13 1.19. Le fou
** Maudit Fou - Pitch 1 Sport 1.19. Le fou
fou du roi Mixed 20m, 5 1.19. Le fou
Maudit philosophe Trad 22m 1.22. Tresors caches
5.10c Artagnan Trad 12m 1.4. Les Mousquetaires
Bobette Man Sport 15m, 5 1.6. Dame Nature
Mauvaise Herbe Sport 25m, 5 1.7. Grand Canyon
Grenouille Toxique Sport 25m, 8 1.14. M & M
Spooky Sport 22m, 7 1.14. M & M
Fudge Sport 15m, 4 1.17. Paroi Oblique
Meo penche Sport 20m, 7 1.18. L'Amphitheatre
Roche Trad 10m 1.21. Petit Canyon
5.10 *** Ilaria Alpi Trad 15m 1.3. Vertigineux
5.10d Coup d'Epee Unknown 15m 1.5. Antre du Dragon
Last Call Mixed 15m, 5 1.7. Grand Canyon
No Sympathy Mixed 25m, 4 1.14. M & M
Psychoface Mixed 25m, 3 1.14. M & M
Wunderbar Sport 15m, 6 1.17. Paroi Oblique
Anubis Sport 25m, 4 1.19. Le fou
Directe du Fou Mixed 20m, 5 1.19. Le fou
** Exacto Sport 15m, 6 1.19. Le fou
Canibal Top rope 12m 1.20. La Petite Folie
La paume de Boudha Sport 10m, 4 1.20. La Petite Folie
5.11a Le retour de Superman Sport 11m, 4 1.2. Paroi du Lac
Caterina Sport 15m, 4 1.6. Dame Nature
Henriette D'Angeville Sport 15m, 4 1.6. Dame Nature
La Vente Etiquette Rouge Mixed 30m, 5 1.7. Grand Canyon
Les tetines de Grand-maman Sport 25m, 10 1.15. Controverse
Myosis Sport 20m, 7 1.16. Hippocampe
Lapedioni Mixed 35m, 8 1.19. Le fou
Les Mouches Trad 20m 1.21. Petit Canyon
5.11b Les tetons de Grand-papa Mixed 25m, 7 1.15. Controverse
Tally-Ho Sport 1.16. Hippocampe
Timbits Sport 15m, 4 1.17. Paroi Oblique
** Lollypops Sport 60m 1.19. Le fou
Merlin Sport 20m, 6 1.19. Le fou
Quantum Plouk Sport 17m, 4 1.19. Le fou
Twins Tower Nord Sport 16m, 6 1.19. Le fou
Twins Tower Sud Sport 16m, 7 1.19. Le fou
Crapet-soleil Mixed 12m, 1 1.21. Petit Canyon
5.11c Les Petits Chiens "Zigneurs" Mixed 20m, 4 1.7. Grand Canyon
Ligne d'acier Sport 40m, 15 1.16. Hippocampe
Ptosys Sport 20m, 8 1.16. Hippocampe
Foubrak Mixed 20m, 4 1.19. Le fou
5.11 Le Combat Unknown 15m 1.5. Antre du Dragon
Corn Flakes Top rope 25m 1.14. M & M
Crystaligne Sport 20m, 6 1.19. Le fou
5.11d Mephisto Mixed 25m, 3 1.7. Grand Canyon
La bedaine de Gerard Sport 25m, 9 1.15. Controverse
Les p'tits mononc Trad 1.16. Hippocampe
Biscuits Mixed 20m, 7 1.18. L'Amphitheatre
Super Bam Sport 30m, 3 1.19. Le fou
5.12a Le Bossu Mixed 15m, 2 1.6. Dame Nature
La danse de l'Ours Sport 14m, 4 1.7. Grand Canyon
Enfin! Sport 20m, 5 1.14. M & M
Sonatine Sport 23m, 8 1.14. M & M
Mechante Chicane Trad 20m 1.18. L'Amphitheatre
Womatagna Sport 1.19. Le fou
5.12b Dame Nature Sport 15m, 5 1.6. Dame Nature
Siege ejectable Sport 17m, 6 1.19. Le fou
5.12c Hostie de Power Sport 15m, 5 1.6. Dame Nature
Le Tailleur de Pierre Sport 22m, 6 1.7. Grand Canyon
Super Musclor Sport 14m, 5 1.17. Paroi Oblique
5.12d La Joyeuse Mixed 25m, 3 1.5. Antre du Dragon
La chicane de Paul Mixed 20m, 3 1.18. L'Amphitheatre
5.12+ L'inutile Trad 15m 1.1. Supercrackspot
5.13a La Saint-Arnould Mixed 20m, 3 1.5. Antre du Dragon
5.13b Conviction Mixed 23m, 4 1.14. M & M
Jipifer Sport 20m, 6 1.19. Le fou
5.13 Le complexe du "Corn Flakes" Sport 12m, 5 1.18. L'Amphitheatre
? (unknwon) Unknown 1 1.9.1. (First Other Beer)
. Unknown 1.9.2. (Second other beer)
.. Unknown 1.9.2. (Second other beer)
? ** Unnamed Sport 1.11. La Boite a Surprise
...quand tu viendras Trad 1.22. Tresors caches
Un jour, un jour... Trad 1.22. Tresors caches