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Routes in Paroi du Lac

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Showing all 10 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.11a Le retour de Superman

At the left end of the cliff, look for a line of bolts up fairly smooth looking face, with a horizontal crack about 3m up.

Sport 11m, 4
5.9 Crinque encore!

Slightly right-sloping crack up the face near the left end of the cliff.

Trad 11m
5.9 Dick Tracy
Sport 10m, 4
5.7 Jos-Bras-de-Fer
Trad 11m
5.10a Spadlamarde

Starts up the same crack as Jos-Bras-de-Fer, then branches right and follows bolts to the top.

Mixed trad 13m, 5
5.10b Travail d'équipe

May no longer be climbable -- boulder that held anchors is lieing at the bottom of the cliff, and I think as of 2012 one or two bolts are, also, missing hangars.

Sport 13m, 4
5.8 Tatanade

Look for a stepped rock heading up with bolts on the face. Climb the steps to the top. Anchor on tree(s). (A couple trees hanging over the top edge have slings on them -- but they looked pretty tatty when I climbed it late August 2011. I chose to anchor on trees back from the edge.)

(Book [2009] says 6 bolts, but diagram only shows 4, and I think I only saw 4 on the cliff in summer 2011.)

edit - 8-27-2012 - 98 percent of routes at La Paroie du Lac are natural anchors (ropegunner)

Sport 14m, 4
5.6 Guepe

Climbing up the easy stepped rock to the right of "Tatanade" to a pair of bolts. Continue up the ramp left of the bolts then around right above them. (Going directly up the face where the bolts are is at least 5.10+.)

(Guide says 4 bolts, diagram shows 3 but lowest doesn't exit; only 2 are in the rock. Anchor on tree(s).)

Mixed trad 14m, 2
5.9 Tigre des bois

At the base, there was a waist-height separated flake, which is now laying flat on the ground. This has made the start far harder than it was -- probably 5.9+ or so.

Up past two bolts to a thin crack (gear section -- small gear needed, don't bother hauling anything big up this climb). Follow the crack upwards and right for a bit, to two more bolts. Anchor on tree(s).

Mixed trad 13m, 4
5.5 Shagydelic

Bolt line at the far right end of the cliff. Up slightly mossy steps to shelf, traverse a bit left & clip. Left of the bolts above a lip, then angle rightwards following the bolts. Anchor on tree(s).

Sport 13m, 4

Showing all 10 routes.

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