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Ascents of Le Beau-frère having Beta

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Showing all 3 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Sat 11th Aug 2018 - Montagne d'Argent
Vertigineux
5.8 ★★ Le Beau-frère Trad 14m ★★ Very Good
David Gibbs
A couple of the critical foot-smears were soaking wet from seepage and slimy, so didn't make it up, even on TR.

  
Sat 18th Jun 2016 - Montagne d'Argent
Vertigineux
5.9 5.8 ★★ Le Beau-frère Trad 14m ★★ Very Good
David Gibbs
I don't think the opening moves of this are anything like 5.8 -- solid 5.9.

  
Sat 27th Aug 2011 - Montagne d'Argent
Vertigineux
5.8 ★★ Le Beau-frère Trad 14m ★★ Very Good
David Gibbs
5.8??? More like 5.10a?

Painful (but relatively solid) finger jams with bad feet low down into burly lay-back and heel-toe cam work with minimal to no rests or stances for the first 7m or so. Looks like gear placements are avaiable -- but no stance to place them from. I'd say that this is definitely not a 5.8 climb -- it felt far more like a 5.10a to me, or maybe stiff 5.9+. And the lead without stances would be quite difficult.

Still, a very rewarding climb.

  

Showing all 3 ascents.

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