Mount Kelso Mostly trad climbing

53 routes in crag

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Summary

A good trad climbing crag for hot summer days with an easy approach.

Description

Routes are mostly moderate trad climbs with good protection. There are a small number of sport routes of varying quality.

Note that most routes do not have bolts at the top, so be prepared to build an anchor to belay your second.

To descend there is a walkoff on the east end of the cliff and a rap station near the finish of 'Corner Route'.

Access issues

There is a top-roping ban in effect. Do not sling cedars.

Approach

Park in the first parking lot on the left after entering the Kelso Conservation Area located below the chalet and beside the rental stand. Take the tunnel and hike up and around the chalet to the Ascension trail. Follow this into the woods. The trail will switch back, come out onto the open slopes (you can also cut across the slopes directly to this part of the trail) and return back into the woods.

At this point look for a small trail on the left (at N43.507622,W-79.940231). It will immediately fork with the left fork being the "Road to Ruin" trail. Take the right fork which heads straight up the slope. Following this trail to the cliff will put you at 'Jolly Roger'.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Central Wall Sector
13
4
10
3
25m
2
9
17
25m
1
Quarry Area Sector
-
0
0

Open trips

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