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Summary

A large crag with a good number of sport routes. The cliff is north facing, making it more comfortable in the summer than the other Halton Region crags.

Description

Mount Nemo is a huge crag, significantly larger than any of the other crags in the Halton or even the Beaver Valley areas and features a fair number of bolted sport lines. However, it features a longer hike in, more difficult approaches and a top-roping ban making it less popular and giving it more of an adventure feel.

Traditionally the bolted routes here have been hard (5.10 and harder), with runouts or high first bolts, making it an unfriendly place for beginning. Recent development has added or retrobolted some more moderate routes to modern standards, bringing renewed popularity to previously disregarded areas like the 'Big Gulp Area' and 'Camel Wall'.

Access issues

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.

Approach

Enter and park at the Mount Nemo Conservation Area (5317 Guelph Line, Burlington, ON). Hike the trail to the cliff and take one of the descent gullies for your preferred area.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Gooseberry Sector
11
2
10m
Dead Zone Sector
6
2
Central Wall Sector
10
6
7m
1
3
1
16m
2
Central Zone Sector
12
5
17m
1
Ivory Tower Sector
8
0
2
New Wall Sector
16
0
Ground Zero Sector
13
0
37m
14
10
27m
6
8
3
30m
2
Camel Wall Sector
15
38
24m
4
20
108
15m
8

Open trips

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