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Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.


This wall can be accessed by climbing down the Alfred Gully near the lookout. Once down, walk south (climber's left) past "Live Bait" along the cliff line on a small trail. No more than 5 minutes. The first sport routes you will encounter are Enchiridion and Ten Pound Lunker Bass.

Alternate approach: Walk south along trail from Alfred Gully for about another 100 feet on the main trail, there is access down the Central Gully. Look for a longish gully to climb down into. This gully is easier to climb out of than into - some stemming required. Once at the bass, to climber's right, Nicorette and to climber's left, Are you a Fireman? So why the big house?

Descent notes

Climb out of either Central Gully or hike back north to Alfred Gully and climb out there.


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Grade Route

Great climbing - tough onsight - hidden holds! Good moves and varied climbing through dark streaks in the rock. Nice long route. Steep and pumpy. Probably one of the best 11s in Ontario! Leftmost route on this wall. Coldshuts at top, difficult to clean due to 20' overhang (better to 2nd).

Good climbing but starts in a lot of choss. Large flake that looks like it is detaching at first clip. Hard moves into crack to overcome roof.

This route is climber's left of "Fireman"

First route climber's left of the gully.

Climbs the face of the prow that is climber's right of the Central Gully

Laybacking to a reachy crux, then easier climbing and good rest on your way to the top.

Boulder start with thin crimps to pockets. Good holds and then second boulder crux to gain face. Fun climbing!

FA: David Smart

Route to Climber's right of Enchiridion. Shares same anchors.

Steep chimney crack climbing to the top. Climber's right of Enchiridion and Ten Pound Lunker Bass.

At the top, there are rap rings about 3m to climber's right, 2m below a dead tree trunk.

Dirty gully - climb to top


Check out what is happening in Central Wall.