Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.

Approach

This wall can be accessed by climbing down the Alfred Gully near the lookout. Once down, walk south (climber's left) past "Live Bait" along the cliff line on a small trail. No more than 5 minutes. The first sport routes you will encounter are Enchiridion and Ten Pound Lunker Bass.

Alternate approach: Walk south along trail from Alfred Gully for about another 100 feet on the main trail, there is access down the Central Gully. Look for a longish gully to climb down into. This gully is easier to climb out of than into - some stemming required. Once at the bass, to climber's right, Nicorette and to climber's left, Are you a Fireman? So why the big house?

Descent Notes

Climb out of either Central Gully or hike back north to Alfred Gully and climb out there.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.11d *** Mean Streaks Sport 9

Great climbing - tough onsight - hidden holds! Good moves and varied climbing through dark streaks in the rock. Nice long route. Steep and pumpy. Probably one of the best 11s in Ontario! Leftmost route on this wall.

2
5.12a Scarface Sport 8

Good climbing but starts in a lot of choss. Large flake that looks like it is detaching at first clip. Hard moves into crack to overcome roof.

3
5.11c Farewell Infidel Sport 5

This route is climber's left of "Fireman"

4

First route climber's left of the gully.

5
5.10c Nicorette Sport 6

Climbs the face of the prow that is climber's right of the Central Gully

6

Laybacking to a reachy crux, then easier climbing and good rest on your way to the top.

7
5.11d *** Enchiridion Sport 6

Boulder start with thin crimps to pockets. Good holds and then second boulder crux to gain face. Fun climbing!

FA: David Smart

8
5.11b Ten Pound Lunker Bass Sport 6

Route to Climber's right of Enchiridion. Shares same anchors.

9
5.3 ** The Roof Trad 7m

Steep chimney crack climbing to the top. Climber's right of Enchiridion and Ten Pound Lunker Bass

10
5.0 ** Anticlimax Trad

Dirty gully - climb to top