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Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.

Approach

Take the approach as for 'Big Gulp Area' and walk back along the base of the cliff.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.8 Investigation Trad
2
5.9 Lenemar Trad
4
5.6 Hand Shake Trad
5
5.10c *** Thunder Road Sport

Just left of the must tick classic Camel. Thunder Road is shorter with fun climbing and a layback crux.

FA:

6
5.7 *** Camel Trad 25m

Starts at number 45.

Climb the obvious left-facing flake and crack system up to a ledge with cedars, then up the crack above to 3 glue-in bolts for lower off.

Steep and sustained for its grade.

7
5.5 Jay Trad

Starts 6m right of Camel, meets it at the ledge, and shares the finish to the anchors.

Shared section with Camel looks & feels harder than 5.5.

8
5.10a Toe Trad 27m

A direct finish to Jay. stay right of the Camel ledge. Make some cool moves through the blank face between the bushes on the the right and the trees on the ledge (protection is questionable). Reach the roof, place some good gear and try to figure out how to exit (a foot or two to the right). No fixed anchor, but one can be built fairly easily by looping some cordo on the rocks at the top.

9

Start at number 46.

10
5.10c Grim Thin Flake Sport

Bolted route about 10m right of Camel, where a thin crack/groove goes through steep ground lower down, then angle left to an obvious left-pointing flake, pull up through this, and over to an anchor.

Retro-bolted recently (with permission), was a "5.9+" trad route.

11
5.10b * The Old Breed Sport 10

Bolted route just left of Positron, starts around the corner, then goes up the steep, thin, head wall left of Positron's flake system.

12
5.8 Positron Mixed 1

Climbs up over an initial bulge (bolt) to an obvious complex flake system. Up this to a big roof, go left then over the roof, then finish up and leftwards.

(Many people go right at the roof, but this is easier than the grade, and not as originally climbed and named.)

13
5.11- Reg's Route Sport

Bolted line left of 'Double Lead' which climbs up, heads right crossing over 'Double Lead' and finishes at anchors on 'Harlequin'.

14
5.4 ** Double Lead Trad

Start at number 48. Climb the cracks beneath a large roof up and left past the roof. Continue up and left to the top.

This route does not have anchors, although if you go right at the top, you can use the anchors from 'Reg's Route'.

15
5.7 Harlequin Trad

Climb up the corner system to the overhangs, and travel left under them, then up.

Said to be "sandbagged" at 5.7.