Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

The Big Gulp area runs from the large overhanging buttress that gives it the name to the north/west end of the climbed section of the cliff, at Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern. There is an easy scramble to the top of the cliff about 50m farther north/west than Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern.

Several of the old trad climbs here have been retro-bolted (with FA's permission) as sport climbs, making this a newly popular sport location with a number of moderate sport climbs.

Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.

Approach

From the parking lot, hike to the lookout and take the path to the left to continue hiking northwards along the top of the cliff. Eventually, you will begin to descend into an area with logs lining the path where you can double back to an easy scramble, the 'Easy Way Down'. This drops you about 50m north/west of 'Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern'.

Descent Notes

Most/all climbs have anchors to lower from.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.11d The Big Gulp Trad
2
5.12a Big Sky Sport
3

Start at no 49. Climb the corner up and right to a ledge. Continue up arching crack to some flakes and climb them to a ledge which leads to the top.

4

Start at no 49. Climb the corner up and right to a ledge. Continue up arching crack to some flakes and climb them and then straight through the cracks in the overhang to the top. (Recommended variant, but harder.)

5
5.8 Proton Trad
7
5.0 Yellow Streak Trad

Start at number 50 (which is hidden behind some cedars), a couple meters up and left of "Four No More". Climb the inside corner and gully to the top.

8
5.5 ** Four No More Trad 14m

Start at number 51, at a small corner. Climb up past a couple pockets via cracks to the top.

The start is a bit hidden behind cedar trees.

This finishes on a wide grassy ledge -- need a gear anchor. To the right across the ledge is a double-bolt rap anchor that can be used for the descent.

9
5.11b * Palm Sunday Sport 14m, 5

Start with some moderate climbing to a high first bolt just above a small cave feature. Continues on small crimps and ledges to a few nice cracks and finishes with nice big victory jugs at the anchors.

10
5.0 Wormhole Trad 14m

Start at number 52. Get in the chimney, worm your way up.

11
5.10b ** Red Line Fever Sport

Look for an obvious dirty red streak down from the top of the cliff -- climb up to and through this streak.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

12

Climb the right-facing crack and corner system on the right side of the overhangs.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission. Was originally graded 5.8.)

13
5.10b * Wasp in Space Sport

Start below a small, loose looking cave right of Judy's. Climb up following bolts past the cave.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

14
5.10a Madames Deconvience Sport 7

Climb to a bolt under a roof, traverse left, up onto the face, then right around the blunt arete and up to the anchors.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission. Was originally graded 5.8.)

15

Climb into the gully and walk along it's bottom to the back. Then climb up some easy terrain and exit out the small hole to find yourself on the top of 'Palm Sunday' and at an easy rap station for 'Wormhole'. Getting out the hole with a backpack is likely to be a challenge.

16
5.4 * The Head Mucky Mucky Trad 17m

Climb the blocks to a nice finger sized crack. Layback to the anchors with fun moves and good pro.

17
5.8 Trauma Belay Sport 4

Climb up blocky ledges to a slabbier head wall.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

18
5.5 * Bei Tageslicht Sport 6

Start 3m left of the obvious Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern.

Climb up flakes to and crack to an overhang. Pull over the bulge (crux) and up the headwall to anchors.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

19

Start below an obvious short hand crack above an overhang about 3m up. Climb the blocks to the overhang, and climb the crack to the top.

20
Class 3 Easy Way Down Trad

About 200m right of "Ein Klienes Nacht Klettern". A very easy descent for the northern part of the cliff.