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Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.


The standard approach is 'Alfreds Gully'.


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Grade Route

Best route on the wall. Even throughout for the grade, with multiple different types of cruxy elements. Delicate traverse on small holds, awkward balancy mantel, small crimp face climbing. A possible alternate exists from the rest at the tree, staying near the tree on or left of the arete running up from it before rejoining at the mantel.

A well-bolted sport route except the first bolt is rather high (about 15 feet of the ground). Climb to the ledge, be nice to the trees and then carefully make the first clip. The other bolts are well placed and the route flows well. The crux is about 2/3 up the route, making it a bit of a hard endurance push for climbers working the grade. *New bolt at bottom for stickclipping added summer 2015. Ledge can also be gained from far left by Stand & Deliver.

Pumpy overhanging bouldery problem. Key pockets sometimes wet under roof. Split off left to Live Bait or right to ledge for As You Like it to finish.

Uneven route with 2 bolts' worth of 10c at top and bottom each of the grade, easier in middle. Falling while making the 2nd clip too high is close to groundfall (always clip from the jug!) - maybe stick clip it. Sometimes wet in key pockets at bottom. New bolt added in middle to protect groundfall from ledge 2/3up summer 2015.

5.7 trad/runout to first bolt (old piton might help). . runout traverse at top if you take the easy way out towards Wide Load.

The first bolted route on your right at the bottom of 'Alfreds Gully'. Very polished, making the whole route feel much harder (and scarier) than 5.9. Had an extra bolt added to the bottom circa 2011 to prevent a runout to the second bolt with groundfall potential.

Formerly the "easiest" sport climb at Nemo and many peoples first lead. Often moist in humid weather.

Located 100m south of the Lookout Tower, this is the most popular approach gully for 'Mount Nemo' 's southern area climbs.

contrived route on edge of the arrete. If you can find/invent the 11b you are a creative person. Goes at 5.9 bit runout if you take the easiest line.

harder (11- or 11 -- more so for short people) if you don't use what remains of the tree after the 2013 xmas ice storm.

To climber's right of Alfred Gulley. Passes to the right of a tree and ends in the notch shared by the 'traditional' gully downclimb. Convenient for a walk off or a last climb of the day.


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