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Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.


The standard approach is 'Alfreds Gully'.


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Grade Route
5.11a Stand and Deliver Sport 6
5.10a * Live Bait Sport 9

A well-bolted sport route except the first bolt is rather high (about 15 feet of the ground). Climb to the ledge, be nice to the trees and then carefully make the first clip. The other bolts are well placed and the route flows well. The crux is about 2/3 up the route.

5.11a Wishbone Sport 5

split off left to Live Bait or right to ledge for As You Like it.

5.10c As You Like It Sport 6

5.7 trad/runout to first bolt (old piton might help). . runout traverse at top if you take the easy way out towards Wide Load.

5.9 Wide Load Sport 6

The first bolted route on your right at the bottom of 'Alfreds Gully'. Very polished, making the whole route feel much harder (and scarier) than 5.9. Had an extra bolt added to the bottom circa 2011 to prevent a runout to the second bolt with groundfall potential.

Formerly the "easiest" sport climb at Nemo and many peoples first lead. Often moist in humid weather.

5.0 Alfreds Gully Trad

Located 100m south of the Lookout Tower, this is the most popular approach gully for 'Mount Nemo' 's southern area climbs.

5.11b Running Towards Nothing Sport 12m, 4

contrived route on edge of the arrete. If you can find/invent the 11b you are a creative person. Goes at 5.9 bit runout if you take the easiest line.

5.10b Lost in the Forest Sport 7

harder (11- or 11 -- more so for short people) if you don't use what remains of the tree after the 2013 xmas ice storm.

5.7 Crazy Legs Ale Trad

To climber's right of Alfred Gulley. Passes to the right of a tree and ends in the notch shared by the 'traditional' gully downclimb. Convenient for a walk off or a last climb of the day.

5.10a Tender Flake Crux Trad


Check out what is happening in Alfred's Wall.