Iguana Wall Mostly sport climbing6 routes in sector
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A tall wall with a number of mixed and trad routes and a couple of bolted lines. Some very good routes here!
Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo
There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.
Either descend the Falling Tom gully or Alfred's gully. Falling Tom gully can be muddy and slippery after rain.
Climb through a trad section of crack and dihedral climbing to where Fear and Loathing and Train in Vain split, and veer left to the ledge under the left branch of bolts. Protection is not ideal for the start. The bolted part of the climb is excellent! Thin face climbing, good rests and many, many liebacks.
Climb through a trad section of crack and dihedral climbing to where Fear and Loathing and Train in Vain split, and veer towards the crack on the right, in an area with black rock and a small tree (run out 5.8/9). Protection is not ideal for the start. Surmount the roof using the wide crack and face holds, then try to control the pump on fairly sustained 5.11 climbing to the top.