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Description

A tall wall with a number of mixed and trad routes and a couple of bolted lines. Some very good routes here!

Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.

Descent Notes

Either descend the Falling Tom gully or Alfred's gully. Falling Tom gully can be muddy and slippery after rain.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10b ** Is She Pretty Sport

A fun climb with a number of roofs to pull. Start slightly left of the painted number 11B and a curving tree which leaves the ground growing horizontally.

2

Begin in the dihedral just right of Is She Pretty. Transition to the chimney and offwidth section, which gets easier as you gain height. It is possible to finish on the anchors of Is She Pretty.

3
5.12b *** Fear and Loathing Sport

Climb through a trad section of crack and dihedral climbing to where Fear and Loathing and Train in Vain split, and veer left to the ledge under the left branch of bolts. Protection is not ideal for the start. The bolted part of the climb is excellent! Thin face climbing, good rests and many, many liebacks.

4
5.12c ** Train in Vain Sport

Climb through a trad section of crack and dihedral climbing to where Fear and Loathing and Train in Vain split, and veer towards the crack on the right, in an area with black rock and a small tree (run out 5.8/9). Protection is not ideal for the start. Surmount the roof using the wide crack and face holds, then try to control the pump on fairly sustained 5.11 climbing to the top.

5
5.11b ** Forever Young Sport

A fun, slightly reachy climb with a number of cruxes and good rests in between. Begin in the tall rectangular alcove right of Train in Vain, about 8-10 meters left of I Owe a Lot of Money to a Man Named Guido (note the small tree midway up the cliff between Train in Vain and Forever Young). The climb to the high first bolt can be protected.

6

This is the rightmost route on the Iguana Wall. Climb a short crack section (take some stoppers) to gain the bolt line. Make your way to the top on small edges and crimps.