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A tall wall with a number of mixed and trad routes and a couple of bolted lines. Some very good routes here!

Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.

Descent notes

Either descend the Falling Tom gully or Alfred's gully. Falling Tom gully can be muddy and slippery after rain.


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Grade Route

Walk about 15m climbers left of Is She Pretty past the steep gully on your right. This route goes up the pinnacle between the Iguana and Alfred wall.

Go about 2/3s of the way along the pinnacle and start left of the obvious arching dead tree, goes under and right of this, following the left leaning crack system up to a small roof. Pull through this on good layback holds and climb the fun and clean dihedral above. When this ends, walk right onto the big ledge and go up the blocky groove to the base of the easy(mostly unprotectable) but fun slab to the top of the pinnacle, follow this to a great belay and sightseeing spot at the very top.

A fun climb with a number of roofs to pull. Start slightly left of the painted number 11B and a curving tree which leaves the ground growing horizontally.

Anchors are 2 shunts that you can clip and lower off on. Do not top rope on them, hang draws instead please.

Begin in the dihedral just right of Is She Pretty. Transition to the chimney and offwidth section, which gets easier as you gain height. It is possible to finish on the anchors of Is She Pretty.

Climb through a trad section of crack and dihedral climbing to where Fear and Loathing and Train in Vain split, and veer left to the ledge under the left branch of bolts. Protection is not ideal for the start. The bolted part of the climb is excellent! Thin face climbing, good rests and many, many liebacks. Needs rebolting.

Climb through a trad section of crack and dihedral climbing to where Fear and Loathing and Train in Vain split, and veer towards the crack on the right, in an area with black rock and a small tree (run out 5.8/9). Protection is not ideal for the start. Surmount the roof using the wide crack and face holds, then try to control the pump on fairly sustained 5.11 climbing to the top. Needs rebolting.

A fun, slightly reachy climb with a number of cruxes and good rests in between. Begin in the tall rectangular alcove right of Train in Vain, about 8-10 meters left of I Owe a Lot of Money to a Man Named Guido (note the small tree midway up the cliff between Train in Vain and Forever Young). New lowest bolt added after unstable flake came down, now stickclipable.

Climb relatively straight cracks to an overhang. Exit left instead of pulling the overhang.

FA: Chas Yonge, 1981

Right of Forever Young. The same line as Axolotl except you pull the roof instead of exiting left.

Set by Karl Seidenschmid, 2017

This is the rightmost route on the Iguana Wall. Climb 35' of crack and blocky awkward face (take some stoppers) to gain the bolt line. Make your way to the top on small edges and crimps.

As of 2016, this route has been bolted from the ground up. There is no need to place trad gear for the first third of the climb.


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