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Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10b Lost and Found Trad

Start left of number 16A.

2
5.5 *** Grunge Trad 15m

Starts at 16B. Fun dihedral climbing up to a ledge.

FA: A. Large

3
5.6 ** Sian Trad

Start at number 17A. Climbs to share same tree anchor as 17B. Bring long slings to sling trees at cliff top to build anchors. Then either top out and walk off or pull rope through (on clean) and rappel.

4
5.7 Shake a Leg Trad

Start at number 17B. No bolted anchors, bring long slings for the big tree to build anchors at top of cliff. Top out and walk off or pull rope through and rappel off the large tree on clean.

5
5.8 Hanging Andy Trad
6
5.11c ** Upwardly Mobile Sport

2 meters to climber's right of 17B. Start on ledge behind some plants. First bolt is on right facing rock, which can be clipped from ledge. Traverse and move up. Shares a short section with its neighbour climb story (crux here), but then ventures to the left again. Finish on the black rock just behind the cedar at the top.

7
5.11b ** Climb Story Sport

High first bolt off of ledge on the left face of a corner. Climb sandy and damp (but positive holds) up corner to gain the face. Neat rest ledge, then tackle a short arete move, onto some crimps. Rest before the steep finish through the roof.

8

Start at number 18C.

Climb the off-width chimney.

9

A hand crack 1m right of "Corkscrew Chimney" or 1m right of # 18C.

Climb widening crack to ledge. Traverse right to hidden crack which leads to top avoiding the cedars.

10
5.9 * Sweet Relief Trad

Start at number 18D.

11
5.5 * Spring Thaw Trad 20m

Start at #19.

Climbing up to a low ledge, then up a blocky corner to a higher ledge. Move right along this ledge to the back corner with a hand-crack & chimney. Climb the crack, the chimney, or a combination of the two.

Currently (summer 2013) has a pair of shiny (definitely new-looking) pitons as a rap anchor.

FA: H. Microys, P. Turner

12
5.7 * Zoomba Sport 15m, 8

Starts about mid-way between Spring Thaw (#19) and "Curved Chimney Descent" (#20A), or about 20m from either.

Climb the bolted slab on generally good holds to a steeper finish.

Two rings for lower-off.