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Description

An area with two major ledges -- the Ground Zero Ledge, and the Batcave Ledge.

Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.

Approach

The anchors at the top of Ground Zero give about a 31m rappel to the base of the cliff, and can be approached on rock (optional gear placement). Would be a great choice for rappelling to the base, if that were acceptable at Mount Nemo.

Otherwise, a long hike from the northmost Easy Way along the base, or a nasty down-climb down the Batcave Descent.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.11a Why Bother? Mixed 4

Alternate 2nd pitch for "Ground Zero".

  1. From the belay ledge, climb the left line of bolts. (Gear not needed for this pitch.)
2

Alternate 2nd pitch for "Ground Zero".

  1. From the belay ledge, climb the right line of bolts. May want a piece for the horizontal between the last two bolts.
3
5.8 *** Ground Zero Trad 37m

Perhaps the best 5.8 at Mount Nemo.

Starts at #30.

  1. Either climb the dirty loose start to the Ground Zero ledge, or start on the ledge. Either climb cracks the left wall of the corner or the corner (dirtier, but easier) itself to another ledge. Belay.

  2. Climb a small left-facing corner to a roof, step right into the main corner, and follow it to the top.

4
5.10c ** Gero-Nemo Trad
5
5.11a * American Storm Mixed 4
6
5.10d Aftershock Trad
7
5.12 R Mephisto Mixed 5

Start 2m left of #31.

8

Start at #31. Go up left crossing "Mephisto", then right to avoid the thin section until a dihedral is reached. Follow cracks to the top.

9
5.9 ** Double Feature Trad

Start at #31.

  1. Climb the clean groove to a small ledge. (5.9)

  2. Climb the left-leaning corner to the top. (5.8)

12
5.10a * Metamorphisis Trad
13

Found at the top of a steep rise at # 32, with the initials "BC" painted on the rock. Another uncomfortable Mount Nemo descent gully.