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Table of contents

1. Mount Nemo 156 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: -79.878836, 43.422855

Unique Features And Strengths:

A large crag with a good number of sport routes. The cliff is north facing, making it more comfortable in the summer than the other Halton Region crags.

Description:

Mount Nemo is a huge crag, significantly larger than any of the other crags in the Halton or even the Beaver Valley areas and features a fair number of bolted sport lines. However, it features a longer hike in, more difficult approaches and a top-roping ban making it less popular and giving it more of an adventure feel.

Traditionally the bolted routes here have been hard (5.10 and harder), with runouts or high first bolts, making it an unfriendly place for beginning. Recent development has added or retrobolted some more moderate routes to modern standards, bringing renewed popularity to previously disregarded areas like the 'Big Gulp Area' and 'Camel Wall'.

Access Issues:

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.

Approach:

Enter and park at the Mount Nemo Conservation Area (5317 Guelph Line, Burlington, ON). Hike the trail to the cliff and take one of the descent gullies for your preferred area.

1.1. Gooseberry 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: -79.870036, 43.421603

Descent Notes:

Easy Descent via the Goodeberry gully which is obvious as the trail crosses it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bookends 5.6Trad
2 The Racoon

Starts at number 37

5.5Trad
3 No Sweat

Starts at number 36

5.4Trad
4 Solo

Starts at number 35

5.6Trad
5 Easy Does It 5.0Trad
6 Siren

Starts at number 33.

5.8Trad
7 Early Morning 5.4Trad
8 * Good to the Last Drop 5.11bTrad
9 ** Easy Steps 5.3Trad
10 * Too Fast In The Fog 5.7Trad 10m
11 Bring a Shovel 5.2Trad

1.2. Dead Zone 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: -79.870502, 43.422119

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gooseberry

Starts at number 30.

5.0Trad
2 Reiss's Pieces 5.7Trad
3 Steep Corner

Starts at number 29A.

5.4Trad
4 Monty Piton's Flying Circus 5.8 A3Aid
5 Space Cadet Special 5.8 A3Aid
6 *** Dufte

Starts at number 28B.

5.9Trad

1.3. Central Wall 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -79.874631, 43.425326

Approach:

This wall can be accessed by climbing down the Alfred Gully near the lookout. Once down, walk south (climber's left) past "Live Bait" along the cliff line on a small trail. No more than 5 minutes. The first sport routes you will encounter are Enchiridion and Ten Pound Lunker Bass.

Alternate approach: Walk south along trail from Alfred Gully for about another 100 feet on the main trail, there is access down the Central Gully. Look for a longish gully to climb down into. This gully is easier to climb out of than into - some stemming required. Once at the bass, to climber's right, Nicorette and to climber's left, Are you a Fireman? So why the big house?

Descent Notes:

Climb out of either Central Gully or hike back north to Alfred Gully and climb out there.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Mean Streaks

Great climbing - tough onsight - hidden holds! Good moves and varied climbing through dark streaks in the rock. Nice long route. Steep and pumpy. Probably one of the best 11s in Ontario! Leftmost route on this wall.

5.11dSport 9
2 Scarface

Good climbing but starts in a lot of choss. Large flake that looks like it is detaching at first clip. Hard moves into crack to overcome roof.

5.12aSport 8
3 Farewell Infidel

This route is climber's left of "Fireman"

5.11cSport 5
4 Are you a Fireman? So why the big hose?

First route climber's left of the gully.

5.12bSport 7
5 Nicorette

Climbs the face of the prow that is climber's right of the Central Gully

5.10cSport 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 *** Weak and Fat Will Work for Asparagus

Laybacking to a reachy crux, then easier climbing and good rest on your way to the top.

5.12aSport 9
7 *** Enchiridion

Boulder start with thin crimps to pockets. Good holds and then second boulder crux to gain face. Fun climbing!

FA: David Smart

5.11dSport 6
8 Ten Pound Lunker Bass

Route to Climber's right of Enchiridion. Shares same anchors.

5.11bSport 6
9 ** The Roof

Steep chimney crack climbing to the top. Climber's right of Enchiridion and Ten Pound Lunker Bass

5.3Trad 7m
10 ** Anticlimax

Dirty gully - climb to top

5.0Trad

1.4. Alfred's Wall 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -79.876101, 43.425556

Approach:

The standard approach is 'Alfreds Gully'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stand and Deliver 5.11aSport 6
2 * Live Bait

A well-bolted sport route except the first bolt is rather high (about 15 feet of the ground). Climb to the ledge, be nice to the trees and then carefully make the first clip. The other bolts are well placed and the route flows well. The crux is about 2/3 up the route.

5.10aSport 9
3 Wishbone 5.11aSport 8
4 As You Like It 5.10cSport 6
5 The Seventh Origin of Alfred 5.11bMixed 4
6 Wide Load

The first bolted route on your right at the bottom of 'Alfreds Gully'. Very polished, making the whole route feel much harder (and scarier) than 5.9. Had an extra bolt added to the bottom circa 2011 to prevent a runout to the second bolt with groundfall potential.

Formerly the "easiest" sport climb at Nemo and many peoples first lead.

5.9Sport 6
7 Vanna, Pick Me a Number! 5.7Trad
8 Alfreds Gully

Located 100m south of the Lookout Tower, this is the most popular approach gully for 'Mount Nemo'.

5.0Trad
9 Running Towards Nothing 5.11bSport 4
10 Lost in the Forest 5.10bSport 7
11 Crazy Legs Ale 5.7Trad
12 Crazy Legs Stout 5.9Trad
13 Be Strong Eat Your Fiddleheads 5.10aTrad
14 Tender Flake Crux 5.10aTrad

1.5. Iguana Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -79.877186, 43.425634

Description:

A tall wall with a number of mixed and trad routes and a couple of bolted lines. Some very good routes here!

Descent Notes:

Either descend the Falling Tom gully or Alfred's gully. Falling Tom gully can be muddy and slippery after rain.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Is She Pretty

A fun climb with a number of roofs to pull. Start slightly left of the painted number 11B and a curving tree which leaves the ground growing horizontally.

5.10bSport
2 ** Third Time Lucky

Begin in the dihedral just right of Is She Pretty. Transition to the chimney and offwidth section, which gets easier as you gain height. It is possible to finish on the anchors of Is She Pretty.

5.8Trad
3 *** Fear and Loathing

Climb through a trad section of crack and dihedral climbing to where Fear and Loathing and Train in Vain split, and veer left to the ledge under the left branch of bolts. Protection is not ideal for the start. The bolted part of the climb is excellent! Thin face climbing, good rests and many, many liebacks.

5.12bSport
4 ** Train in Vain

Climb through a trad section of crack and dihedral climbing to where Fear and Loathing and Train in Vain split, and veer towards the crack on the right, in an area with black rock and a small tree (run out 5.8/9). Protection is not ideal for the start. Surmount the roof using the wide crack and face holds, then try to control the pump on fairly sustained 5.11 climbing to the top.

5.12cSport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 ** Forever Young

A fun, slightly reachy climb with a number of cruxes and good rests in between. Begin in the tall rectangular alcove right of Train in Vain, about 8-10 meters left of I Owe a Lot of Money to a Man Named Guido (note the small tree midway up the cliff between Train in Vain and Forever Young). The climb to the high first bolt can be protected.

5.11bSport
6 *** I Owe a Lot of Money to a Man Named Guido

This is the rightmost route on the Iguana Wall. Climb a short crack section (take some stoppers) to gain the bolt line. Make your way to the top on small edges and crimps.

5.10bSport

1.6. White Trash Wall 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -79.878556, 43.425687

Description:

Wall to (climber's) left of Falling Tom gully, and right of the Iguana Wall. Mostly this corresponds to between the lookout and Falling Tom gully.

Descent Notes:

Descend Falling Tom gully and go climber's left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Ten - D - Nitus

This is the bolted line left of Big O Tree (a bit left of the painted number 13), and is located under the lookout.

5.10cSport 16m
2 ** Earthmen

Between Big O Tree and Ten - D - Nitus is a nice crack which starts very wide and soon narrows down. About mid-way up, avoid the tree from the left. It is possible to lower off the Ten - D - Nitus anchors. The climb protects fairly well.

5.7Trad 16m
3 ** Big O Tree

Bolted line right of the painted number 13, by a large tree. Begin at a left-facing corner, pass a small roof and climb the face to the top. Fun beta-intensive climbing. Might be one of those rare climbs which is harder for taller people.

5.11bSport

1.7. Central Zone 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -79.880008, 43.425858

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lost and Found

Start left of number 16A.

5.10bTrad
2 *** Grunge

Starts at 16B.

FA: A. Large

5.5Trad 15m
3 ** Sian

Start at number 17A.

5.6Trad
4 Shake a Leg

Start at number 17B.

5.7Trad
5 Hanging Andy 5.8Trad
6 ** Upwardly Mobile 5.11cTrad
7 ** Climb Story 5.11bTrad
8 Corkscrew Chimney

Start at number 18C.

Climb the off-width chimney.

5.3Trad
9 * Corkscrew Crack

A hand crack 1m right of "Corkscrew Chimney" or 1m right of # 18C.

Climb widening crack to ledge. Traverse right to hidden crack which leads to top avoiding the cedars.

5.2Trad
10 * Sweet Relief

Start at number 18D.

5.9Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 * Spring Thaw

Start at #19.

Climbing up to a low ledge, then up a blocky corner to a higher ledge. Move right along this ledge to the back corner with a hand-crack & chimney. Climb the crack, the chimney, or a combination of the two.

Currently (summer 2013) has a pair of shiny (definitely new-looking) pitons as a rap anchor.

FA: H. Microys, P. Turner

5.5Trad 20m
12 * Zoomba

Starts about mid-way between Spring Thaw (#19) and "Curved Chimney Descent" (#20A), or about 20m from either.

Climb the bolted slab on generally good holds to a steeper finish.

Two rings for lower-off.

5.7Sport 15m, 8

1.8. Ivory Tower 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -79.881290, 43.425899

Description:

A large pillar dislodged from the main escarpment.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crazy Doctor

Left line of bolts up the steep face just left of the south-gully of the Ivory Tower.

5.12bSport
2 Zona Rosa

Right line of bolts just left of the gulley.

5.12Sport
3 Curved Chimney Descent

An exposed and uncomfortable descent, with the worst moves being right at the top.

5.2Trad
4 Adams' Amble

Climb up to a right-facing corner, overhang, then rightwards to a 2nd corner, then left to the top. No anchors, and anchor building on the cliff top is awkward without slinging the cedars.

5.6Trad
5 *** The Long Wait

Start at #21. Climb blocks to small overhang then face above.

5.10dMixed 6
6 ** Pow, Bam, Zowie 5.10cMixed 1
7 ** Night of the Pencils

Climb the thin crack through the overhang, then up the steep face and arete above.

5.12aTrad
8 East Corner

Climb an easy corner inside the north end of the gully.

5.0Trad

1.9. New Wall 16 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: -79.882328, 43.425941

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Last Root

Starts at number 23. Take the right facing corner to a ledge to its left, then climb left to the top.

5.4Trad
2 The Window

Start at number 25. Climb a flake to a ledge below a large overhang, then move left and climb a corner to the top.

5.3Trad
3 * Omen

Start at 26a. Climb a crack just left of a cedar part way up the cliff, traverse left and wander up the easiest path.

5.8Trad
4 Hand Over Fist

Climb the crack just right of the cedar to a ledge under a roof, go left to avoid roof, then up.

5.8Trad
5 Gabba Gabba Hey

Starts about 4m right of "Hand Over Fist".

5.11cMixed 2
6 *** Vision Quest

Start just right of "Gabba" at a small, squat, pinnacle.

5.12aTrad
7 * Burning Gravity 5.11aMixed 1
8 Silence

Start at #26B. Climb a left-facing corner to a crack, up this, then left to a ledge, then up a groove on the left to the top.

5.6Trad
9 Done Before 5.5Trad
10 Thin Wall

Starts about 10m right of #27, between a loose column and the wall.

5.6Trad
11 * Free

Start at #28A. Scramble up to a corner, or start and belay from the ledge. Climb a large flake, then move left to easier climbing. Follow a chimney (large pieces) to top. Lower-offs.

5.8Trad
12 Paleozoic Pain

Start below a big ledge with a cave right of number 28A. Climb to the ledge, then traverse left until it narrows; then do a layback and crack to the top.

5.4Trad
13 Fourth Time Lucky

Start at #28B.

5.7Trad
14 Devil's Staircase

Start at #29. Climb corners then ledges leftwards to the top.

5.6Trad
15 * Queen of Pentacles

Start 2m left of #30.

  1. Climb up to a ledge left of a stump, then up to a roof and thin crack above to a good ledge. (5.11c)

  2. Climb up and right across the roof, mantel onto the headwall, then straight up to the top. (5.12d)

5.12dMixed 1
16 ** One Eyed Jack

An alternate 2nd pitch to Queen of Pentacles.

  1. Climb a bit left, then hand traverse back right, then straight up the face past bolts.
5.11bMixed 2

1.10. Ground Zero 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: -79.883391, 43.425888

Description:

An area with two major ledges -- the Ground Zero Ledge, and the Batcave Ledge.

Approach:

The anchors at the top of Ground Zero give about a 31m rappel to the base of the cliff, and can be approached on rock (optional gear placement). Would be a great choice for rappelling to the base, if that were acceptable at Mount Nemo.

Otherwise, a long hike from the northmost Easy Way along the base, or a nasty down-climb down the Batcave Descent.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Why Bother?

Alternate 2nd pitch for "Ground Zero".

  1. From the belay ledge, climb the left line of bolts. (Gear not needed for this pitch.)
5.11aMixed 4
2 ** Psycho Lust for Yuppie Chicks

Alternate 2nd pitch for "Ground Zero".

  1. From the belay ledge, climb the right line of bolts. May want a piece for the horizontal between the last two bolts.
5.12bMixed 6
3 *** Ground Zero

Perhaps the best 5.8 at Mount Nemo.

Starts at #30.

  1. Either climb the dirty loose start to the Ground Zero ledge, or start on the ledge. Either climb cracks the left wall of the corner or the corner (dirtier, but easier) itself to another ledge. Belay.

  2. Climb a small left-facing corner to a roof, step right into the main corner, and follow it to the top.

5.8Trad 37m
4 ** Gero-Nemo 5.10cTrad
5 * American Storm 5.11aMixed 4
6 Aftershock 5.10dTrad
7 Mephisto

Start 2m left of #31.

5.12 RMixed 5
8 The Hawk's Nest

Start at #31. Go up left crossing "Mephisto", then right to avoid the thin section until a dihedral is reached. Follow cracks to the top.

5.6Trad
9 ** Double Feature

Start at #31.

  1. Climb the clean groove to a small ledge. (5.9)

  2. Climb the left-leaning corner to the top. (5.8)

5.9Trad
10 *** Dehydrated Yuppie Brains 5.10bTrad
11 * Looks Dangerous, You Go First 5.9Trad
12 * Metamorphisis 5.10aTrad
13 Batcave Descent

Found at the top of a steep rise at # 32, with the initials "BC" painted on the rock. Another uncomfortable Mount Nemo descent gully.

5.0Trad

1.11. Cat's Tail Wall 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -79.884084, 43.425825

Description:

Large open area which stays relatively shaded most of the day in summer, and contains many quality lines (as well as a couple of lesser quality).

Approach:

Via the 'Batcave Descent' gully, 'The Penguin Hatch' or the 'Easy Way Down'. The Batcave gully is very slick after rain and is best avoided when in such conditions.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Leader's Prayer 5.6Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Stuck in the Middle

Start left of the leaning pillar, by the painted number 33C. Aim for the obvious off-width (OW) crack between the fist-crack (Big F) and the left OW ('Leader's Prayer'). The first section is crumbly, but there are good placements once you hit the OW. Take a well deserved rest, and tackle the second OW section, then cruise to the top (no fixed anchors). Take some big gear (#5 possible but not strictly necessary), but there are opportunities for small and mid-sized placements as well.

5.8Trad
3 Big F 5.7Trad
4 Second agreement

This route is located left of 'Route 69', which is left of the main Cat's Tail wall. Begin by a short, stubby pillar leaning against the wall. Climb the finger crack to the overhang, exit right through the fins. At the stance, either continue directly up the blank face (cool moves but no protection) or veer right, then back left, to reach the next crack system and gain the top (bolted anchors).

5.10bTrad
5 ** Route 69

Start climbers left of a small detached pillar, climb up behind and follow the bolts along a wandering line of varied climbing. A great line for the grade.

5.10bSport 22m, 9
6 Female Belay Slave 5.11dSport
7 Ray's Ceiling 5.4Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 ** Cat's Tail

Follow the fun finger-crack at the left side of the main Cat's Tail wall. The crack widens to hands, after which, head left over flaky insecure blocks (through pitons) to anchors.

5.9Trad
9 Cat's Crown

A short second pitch for Cat's tail. Traverse out right, then up, through many an old piton. No anchors, and few possibilities for a natural one on top.

5.10aTrad
10 *** The Graduate

One of Nemo's best climbs at the grade. This is the bolted line a couple of meters right of Cat's Tail. Climb the face right of the arête, and the face above, until you can get a closer look at the large roof. Take a deep breath. Exit the roof using the obvious crack. Fight the pump to the top.

5.12aSport
11 *** Peanut Butter Brothers

Amazing, imposing line. Start just left of the Swan Song bolts, under the small roof-crack. Crank through two roofs to reach a bolted belay. The 2nd pitch is 5.8. After a slight left, head up until you get to the roof, traverse right and around the block (exposed and fun!) and go for the top. It is possible to use either the Graduate or Swan Song anchors. Connecting the two pitches is highly recommended and rope drag should not be an issue.

5.10cTrad 29m
12 *** Swan Song

One of the best climbs of its grade at Nemo. Start on blocks on the right hand side of the main Cat's Tail wall, just left of a bush on the small ledge. Stick-clipping the first bolt is recommended.

5.10cSport 29m, 14
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 * Northern No Air

Alternate finish to Northern air. At the roof, traverse left using the horizontal crack and finish on the vegetated ledge above where the crack ends. It is possible to continue up and right to the Northern Air anchors.

5.10aTrad
14 Northern Air

This climb is located about 10 meters right of the main Cat's Tail wall. Start beneath a corner system (a left-facing one below a right-facing one). Head up through the corners to a stance beneath a break in the small roof (by a large left-facing flake). Plug in some bomber gear and head for the anchors. Note: Gear is sparse and tricky for the first 8 meters or so.

5.11aTrad

1.12. Morphine Ledge 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: -79.884705, 43.425761

Description:

Area between 'Camel Wall' and 'Cat's Tail Wall', routes start on a ledge about 10m off the ground.

Approach:

'The Penguin Hatch' or the 'Easy Way Down' as for 'Big Gulp Area' and 'Camel Wall' are probably the best approaches.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Long Reach

Starts at number 38.

5.6Trad 30m
2 Neutron 5.9Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Sister Morphine

Climb to the ledge under the obvious roof-crack. Exit through the off-width section to a set of fixed anchors. Stop there, or continue straight to the top (through the crack in the next roof (5.10a).

5.11cTrad
4 Reunion

Climb to the ledge under the notch right of Sister Morphine. Make your way up the notch, and angle up and right to the top.

5.7Trad
5 Reunion Direct

Alternate finish to Reunion: exit the roof capping the notch to the left, and finish through the crack in the roof (as for Sister Morphine) at a set of fixed anchors below the lip.

5.10aTrad
6 Carnal Sin

Climb to the Morphine ledge, right of the Reunion notch. use the crack (right of the painted number 39). Climb the first crack to a ledge. Exit roof using the obvious hand-crack, terminating at fixed anchors just below a few trees. (A few large pieces fell off from inside the top crack in June, 2013. The climb still goes, but maybe the grade has changed).

5.10dTrad
7 High Society

An exposed and committing classic. Scramble up to a corner on the right hand side of the Morphine ledge. Climb the corner, step out right and climb the technical face (bolts).

5.10dTrad
8 False Alarm

Starts at number 40.

5.5Trad

1.13. Camel Wall 15 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -79.885368, 43.425630

Approach:

Take the approach as for 'Big Gulp Area' and walk back along the base of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Investigation 5.8Trad
2 Lenemar 5.9Trad
3 * Parental Guidance 5.9Trad
4 Hand Shake 5.6Trad
5 *** Thunder Road

Just left of the must tick classic Camel. Thunder Road is shorter with fun climbing and a layback crux.

FA:

5.10cSport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 *** Camel

Starts at number 45.

Climb the obvious left-facing flake and crack system up to a ledge with cedars, then up the crack above to 3 glue-in bolts for lower off.

Steep and sustained for its grade.

5.7Trad 25m
7 Jay

Starts 6m right of Camel, meets it at the ledge, and shares the finish to the anchors.

Shared section with Camel looks & feels harder than 5.5.

5.5Trad
8 Toe

A direct finish to Jay. stay right of the Camel ledge. Make some cool moves through the blank face between the bushes on the the right and the trees on the ledge (protection is questionable). Reach the roof, place some good gear and try to figure out how to exit (a foot or two to the right). No fixed anchor, but one can be built fairly easily by looping some cordo on the rocks at the top.

5.10aTrad 27m
9 Riel at Batoche

Start at number 46.

5.8Trad
10 Grim Thin Flake

Bolted route about 10m right of Camel, where a thin crack/groove goes through steep ground lower down, then angle left to an obvious left-pointing flake, pull up through this, and over to an anchor.

Retro-bolted recently (with permission), was a "5.9+" trad route.

5.10cSport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 * The Old Breed

Bolted route just left of Positron, starts around the corner, then goes up the steep, thin, head wall left of Positron's flake system. NOTE: Currently missing a hanger on the third bolt.

5.10aSport 20m, 12
12 Positron

Climbs up over an initial bulge (bolt) to an obvious complex flake system. Up this to a big roof, go left then over the roof, then finish up and leftwards.

(Many people go right at the roof, but this is easier than the grade, and not as originally climbed and named.)

5.8Mixed 1
13 Reg's Route

Bolted line left of 'Double Lead' which climbs up, heads right crossing over 'Double Lead' and finishes at anchors on 'Harlequin'.

5.11-Sport
14 ** Double Lead

Start at number 48. Climb the cracks beneath a large roof up and left past the roof. Continue up and left to the top.

This route does not have anchors, although if you go right at the top, you can use the anchors from 'Reg's Route'.

5.4Trad
15 Harlequin

Climb up the corner system to the overhangs, and travel left under them, then up.

Said to be "sandbagged" at 5.7.

5.7Trad

1.14. Big Gulp Area 20 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -79.885952, 43.425530

Description:

The Big Gulp area runs from the large overhanging buttress that gives it the name to the north/west end of the climbed section of the cliff, at Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern. There is an easy scramble to the top of the cliff about 50m farther north/west than Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern.

Several of the old trad climbs here have been retro-bolted (with FA's permission) as sport climbs, making this a newly popular sport location with a number of moderate sport climbs.

Approach:

From the parking lot, hike to the lookout and take the path to the left to continue hiking northwards along the top of the cliff. Eventually, you will begin to descend into an area with logs lining the path where you can double back to an easy scramble, the 'Easy Way Down'. This drops you about 50m north/west of 'Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern'.

Descent Notes:

Most/all climbs have anchors to lower from.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Big Gulp 5.11dTrad
2 Big Sky 5.12aSport
3 ** Butter Fingers (5.7) / Butter Fingers

Start at no 49. Climb the corner up and right to a ledge. Continue up arching crack to some flakes and climb them to a ledge which leads to the top.

5.7Trad 15m
4 ** Butter Fingers (5.9) / Butter Fingers

Start at no 49. Climb the corner up and right to a ledge. Continue up arching crack to some flakes and climb them and then straight through the cracks in the overhang to the top. (Recommended variant, but harder.)

5.9Trad 15m
5 Proton 5.8Trad
6 All Chalked up and No Place to Go 5.10cTrad
7 Yellow Streak

Start at number 50 (which is hidden behind some cedars), a couple meters up and left of "Four No More". Climb the inside corner and gully to the top.

5.0Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 ** Four No More

Start at number 51, at a small corner. Climb up past a couple pockets via cracks to the top.

The start is a bit hidden behind cedar trees.

This finishes on a wide grassy ledge -- need a gear anchor. To the right across the ledge is a double-bolt rap anchor that can be used for the descent.

5.5Trad 14m
9 * Palm Sunday

Start with some moderate climbing to a high first bolt just above a small cave feature. Continues on small crimps and ledges to a few nice cracks and finishes with nice big victory jugs at the anchors.

5.11bSport 14m, 5
10 Wormhole

Start at number 52. Get in the chimney, worm your way up.

5.0Trad 14m
11 * Red Line Fever

Look for an obvious dirty red streak down from the top of the cliff -- climb up to and through this streak.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

5.10bSport
12 * Judy's on the Drug Squad

Climb the right-facing crack and corner system on the right side of the overhangs.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission. Was originally graded 5.8.)

5.9Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 * Wasp in Space

Start below a small, loose looking cave right of Judy's. Climb up following bolts past the cave.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

5.10bSport
14 Madames Deconvience

Climb to a bolt under a roof, traverse left, up onto the face, then right around the blunt arete and up to the anchors.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission. Was originally graded 5.8.)

5.10aSport 7
15 The Penguin Hatch

Climb into the gully and walk along it's bottom to the back. Then climb up some easy terrain and exit out the small hole to find yourself on the top of 'Palm Sunday' and at an easy rap station for 'Wormhole'. Getting out the hole with a backpack is likely to be a challenge.

5.0Trad
16 ** The Head Mucky Mucky

Climb the blocks to a nice finger sized crack. Layback to the anchors with fun moves and good pro.

5.4Trad 17m
17 Trauma Belay

Climb up blocky ledges to a slabbier head wall.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

5.8Sport 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 Bei Tageslicht

Start 3m left of the obvious Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern.

Climb up flakes to and crack to an overhang. Pull over the bulge (crux) and up the headwall to anchors.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

5.5Sport 6
19 Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern

Start below an obvious short hand crack above an overhang about 3m up. Climb the blocks to the overhang, and climb the crack to the top.

5.7Trad
20 Easy Way Down

About 200m right of "Ein Klienes Nacht Klettern". A very easy descent for the northern part of the cliff.

Class 3Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
Class 3 Easy Way Down Trad 1.14. Big Gulp Area
5.0 Easy Does It Trad 1.1. Gooseberry
Gooseberry Trad 1.2. Dead Zone
** Anticlimax Trad 1.3. Central Wall
Alfreds Gully Trad 1.4. Alfred's Wall
East Corner Trad 1.8. Ivory Tower
Batcave Descent Trad 1.10. Ground Zero
The Penguin Hatch Trad 1.14. Big Gulp Area
Wormhole Trad 14m 1.14. Big Gulp Area
Yellow Streak Trad 1.14. Big Gulp Area
5.2 Bring a Shovel Trad 1.1. Gooseberry
* Corkscrew Crack Trad 1.7. Central Zone
Curved Chimney Descent Trad 1.8. Ivory Tower
5.3 ** Easy Steps Trad 1.1. Gooseberry
** The Roof Trad 7m 1.3. Central Wall
Corkscrew Chimney Trad 1.7. Central Zone
The Window Trad 1.9. New Wall
5.4 Early Morning Trad 1.1. Gooseberry
No Sweat Trad 1.1. Gooseberry
Steep Corner Trad 1.2. Dead Zone
Paleozoic Pain Trad 1.9. New Wall
The Last Root Trad 1.9. New Wall
Ray's Ceiling Trad 1.11. Cat's Tail Wall
** Double Lead Trad 1.13. Camel Wall
** The Head Mucky Mucky Trad 17m 1.14. Big Gulp Area
5.5 The Racoon Trad 1.1. Gooseberry
*** Grunge Trad 15m 1.7. Central Zone
* Spring Thaw Trad 20m 1.7. Central Zone
Done Before Trad 1.9. New Wall
False Alarm Trad 1.12. Morphine Ledge
Jay Trad 1.13. Camel Wall
Bei Tageslicht Sport 6 1.14. Big Gulp Area
** Four No More Trad 14m 1.14. Big Gulp Area
5.6 Bookends Trad 1.1. Gooseberry
Solo Trad 1.1. Gooseberry
** Sian Trad 1.7. Central Zone
Adams' Amble Trad 1.8. Ivory Tower
Devil's Staircase Trad 1.9. New Wall
Silence Trad 1.9. New Wall
Thin Wall Trad 1.9. New Wall
The Hawk's Nest Trad 1.10. Ground Zero
Leader's Prayer Trad 1.11. Cat's Tail Wall
Long Reach Trad 30m 1.12. Morphine Ledge
Hand Shake Trad 1.13. Camel Wall
5.7 * Too Fast In The Fog Trad 10m 1.1. Gooseberry
Reiss's Pieces Trad 1.2. Dead Zone
Crazy Legs Ale Trad 1.4. Alfred's Wall
Vanna, Pick Me a Number! Trad 1.4. Alfred's Wall
** Earthmen Trad 16m 1.6. White Trash Wall
Shake a Leg Trad 1.7. Central Zone
* Zoomba Sport 15m, 8 1.7. Central Zone
Fourth Time Lucky Trad 1.9. New Wall
Big F Trad 1.11. Cat's Tail Wall
Reunion Trad 1.12. Morphine Ledge
*** Camel Trad 25m 1.13. Camel Wall
Harlequin Trad 1.13. Camel Wall
** Butter Fingers (5.7) Trad 15m 1.14. Big Gulp Area
Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern Trad 1.14. Big Gulp Area
5.8 Siren Trad 1.1. Gooseberry
** Third Time Lucky Trad 1.5. Iguana Wall
Hanging Andy Trad 1.7. Central Zone
* Free Trad 1.9. New Wall
Hand Over Fist Trad 1.9. New Wall
* Omen Trad 1.9. New Wall
*** Ground Zero Trad 37m 1.10. Ground Zero
* Stuck in the Middle Trad 1.11. Cat's Tail Wall
Investigation Trad 1.13. Camel Wall
Positron Mixed 1 1.13. Camel Wall
Riel at Batoche Trad 1.13. Camel Wall
Proton Trad 1.14. Big Gulp Area
Trauma Belay Sport 4 1.14. Big Gulp Area
5.8 A3 Monty Piton's Flying Circus Aid 1.2. Dead Zone
Space Cadet Special Aid 1.2. Dead Zone
5.9 *** Dufte Trad 1.2. Dead Zone
Crazy Legs Stout Trad 1.4. Alfred's Wall
Wide Load Sport 6 1.4. Alfred's Wall
* Sweet Relief Trad 1.7. Central Zone
** Double Feature Trad 1.10. Ground Zero
* Looks Dangerous, You Go First Trad 1.10. Ground Zero
** Cat's Tail Trad 1.11. Cat's Tail Wall
Neutron Trad 1.12. Morphine Ledge
Lenemar Trad 1.13. Camel Wall
* Parental Guidance Trad 1.13. Camel Wall
** Butter Fingers (5.9) Trad 15m 1.14. Big Gulp Area
* Judy's on the Drug Squad Sport 1.14. Big Gulp Area
5.10a Be Strong Eat Your Fiddleheads Trad 1.4. Alfred's Wall
* Live Bait Sport 9 1.4. Alfred's Wall
Tender Flake Crux Trad 1.4. Alfred's Wall
* Metamorphisis Trad 1.10. Ground Zero
Cat's Crown Trad 1.11. Cat's Tail Wall
* Northern No Air Trad 1.11. Cat's Tail Wall
Reunion Direct Trad 1.12. Morphine Ledge
* The Old Breed Sport 20m, 12 1.13. Camel Wall
Toe Trad 27m 1.13. Camel Wall
Madames Deconvience Sport 7 1.14. Big Gulp Area
5.10b Lost in the Forest Sport 7 1.4. Alfred's Wall
*** I Owe a Lot of Money to a Man Named Guido Sport 1.5. Iguana Wall
** Is She Pretty Sport 1.5. Iguana Wall
Lost and Found Trad 1.7. Central Zone
*** Dehydrated Yuppie Brains Trad 1.10. Ground Zero
** Route 69 Sport 22m, 9 1.11. Cat's Tail Wall
Second agreement Trad 1.11. Cat's Tail Wall
* Red Line Fever Sport 1.14. Big Gulp Area
* Wasp in Space Sport 1.14. Big Gulp Area
5.10c Nicorette Sport 6 1.3. Central Wall
As You Like It Sport 6 1.4. Alfred's Wall
*** Ten - D - Nitus Sport 16m 1.6. White Trash Wall
** Pow, Bam, Zowie Mixed 1 1.8. Ivory Tower
** Gero-Nemo Trad 1.10. Ground Zero
*** Peanut Butter Brothers Trad 29m 1.11. Cat's Tail Wall
*** Swan Song Sport 29m, 14 1.11. Cat's Tail Wall
Grim Thin Flake Sport 1.13. Camel Wall
All Chalked up and No Place to Go Trad 1.14. Big Gulp Area
*** Thunder Road Sport 1.13. Camel Wall
5.10d *** The Long Wait Mixed 6 1.8. Ivory Tower
Aftershock Trad 1.10. Ground Zero
Carnal Sin Trad 1.12. Morphine Ledge
High Society Trad 1.12. Morphine Ledge
5.11- Reg's Route Sport 1.13. Camel Wall
5.11a Stand and Deliver Sport 6 1.4. Alfred's Wall
Wishbone Sport 8 1.4. Alfred's Wall
* Burning Gravity Mixed 1 1.9. New Wall
* American Storm Mixed 4 1.10. Ground Zero
Why Bother? Mixed 4 1.10. Ground Zero
Northern Air Trad 1.11. Cat's Tail Wall
5.11b * Good to the Last Drop Trad 1.1. Gooseberry
Ten Pound Lunker Bass Sport 6 1.3. Central Wall
Running Towards Nothing Sport 4 1.4. Alfred's Wall
The Seventh Origin of Alfred Mixed 4 1.4. Alfred's Wall
** Forever Young Sport 1.5. Iguana Wall
** Big O Tree Sport 1.6. White Trash Wall
** Climb Story Trad 1.7. Central Zone
** One Eyed Jack Mixed 2 1.9. New Wall
* Palm Sunday Sport 14m, 5 1.14. Big Gulp Area
5.11c Farewell Infidel Sport 5 1.3. Central Wall
** Upwardly Mobile Trad 1.7. Central Zone
Gabba Gabba Hey Mixed 2 1.9. New Wall
Sister Morphine Trad 1.12. Morphine Ledge
5.11d *** Enchiridion Sport 6 1.3. Central Wall
*** Mean Streaks Sport 9 1.3. Central Wall
Female Belay Slave Sport 1.11. Cat's Tail Wall
The Big Gulp Trad 1.14. Big Gulp Area
5.12a Scarface Sport 8 1.3. Central Wall
*** Weak and Fat Will Work for Asparagus Sport 9 1.3. Central Wall
** Night of the Pencils Trad 1.8. Ivory Tower
*** Vision Quest Trad 1.9. New Wall
*** The Graduate Sport 1.11. Cat's Tail Wall
Big Sky Sport 1.14. Big Gulp Area
5.12b Are you a Fireman? So why the big hose? Sport 7 1.3. Central Wall
*** Fear and Loathing Sport 1.5. Iguana Wall
Crazy Doctor Sport 1.8. Ivory Tower
** Psycho Lust for Yuppie Chicks Mixed 6 1.10. Ground Zero
5.12c ** Train in Vain Sport 1.5. Iguana Wall
5.12 Zona Rosa Sport 1.8. Ivory Tower
Mephisto Mixed 5 1.10. Ground Zero
5.12d * Queen of Pentacles Mixed 1 1.9. New Wall