Routes in Mount Nemo

About 20m left of the Bookends corner, look for a left-facing corner about 5m up the wall, below a square roof. Climb up to the corner, then to the roof, dodge it to the left, then up a short hand crack on the left side of the roof, then step right to a brushy ledge to finish.

Climb the thin left face of the Bookends corner.

Starts at number 37

Starts at number 36

Starts at number 35

Starts at number 33.

Retro-bolted. Anchors are below the roof.

If the roof is pulled, goes at 5.11b -- currently not bolted past the anchors.

Climb the steep face just left of the Easy Steps corner to a bolted anchor. Very high first bolt.

Climb the featured, but usually dirty, corner.

Climb the smaller cracks on the face right of the corner. Watch for the large loose block about 1/3 of the way up.

7 Bolts plus anchors. Climb up to a roof and rest at the "namesake" hold before entering the crux. Continue up the face to reach another onsight eliminating roof just below the anchors.

Starts at number 30.

Starts at number 29A.

Starts at number 28B.

Left of the crack left of "Mean Streaks". Up and through to the slab. Dangerous 3rd clip?

Short offwidth starting just left of Mean Streak. Pull through the overhang onto the ledge left for easy climbing to the top. Two rings about 2m climber's left at the top for lowering. Fun climbing with plenty of fist and foot jams, and solid gear placements - a great intro to trad.

Great climbing - tough onsight - hidden holds! Good moves and varied climbing through dark streaks in the rock. Nice long route. Steep and pumpy. Probably one of the best 11s in Ontario! Leftmost route on this wall. Coldshuts at top, difficult to clean due to 20' overhang (better to 2nd).

Good climbing but starts in a lot of choss. Large flake that looks like it is detaching at first clip. Hard moves into crack to overcome roof.

This route is climber's left of "Fireman"

First route climber's left of the gully.

Climbs the face of the prow that is climber's right of the Central Gully

Laybacking to a reachy crux, then easier climbing and good rest on your way to the top.

Boulder start with thin crimps to pockets. Good holds and then second boulder crux to gain face. Fun climbing!

Route to Climber's right of Enchiridion. Shares same anchors.

Climb Ten Pound Lunker Bass through the roof, without using the giant ledge/wall on the right. (This variation is noted in the guidebook).

Steep chimney crack climbing to the top. Climber's right of Enchiridion and Ten Pound Lunker Bass.

At the top, there are rap rings about 3m to climber's right, 2m below a dead tree trunk.

Dirty gully - climb to top

15m left of Journeys End.

High first bolt to the left of the two trees. Even throughout for the grade, with multiple different types of cruxy elements. Delicate traverse on small holds, awkward balancy mantel, small crimp face climbing.

Climb to the ledge to the bolt between the two trees. The crux is about 2/3 up the route, making it a bit of a hard endurance push for climbers working the grade. Ledge can also be gained from far left by Stand & Deliver.

Pumpy overhanging bouldery problem. Key pockets sometimes wet under roof. Split off left to Live Bait or right to ledge for As You Like it to finish.

Uneven route with 2 bolts' worth of 10c at top and bottom each of the grade, easier in middle. Falling while making the 2nd clip too high is close to groundfall (always clip from the jug!) - maybe stick clip it. Sometimes wet in key pockets at bottom. New bolt added in middle to protect groundfall from ledge 2/3up summer 2015.

More bolts have been added and the route is no longer runout.

The first bolted route on your right (climber's left) at the bottom of 'Alfred's Gully'. Very polished, making the whole route feel much harder (and scarier) than 5.9. Had an extra bolt added to the bottom circa 2011 to prevent a runout to the second bolt with groundfall potential.

Formerly the "easiest" sport climb at Nemo and many peoples first lead. Often moist in humid weather.

Located 100m south of the Lookout Tower, this is the most popular approach gully for 'Mount Nemo' 's southern area climbs.

contrived route on edge of the arrete. If you can find/invent the 11b you are a creative person. Goes at 5.9 bit runout if you take the easiest line.

harder (11- or 11 -- more so for short people) if you don't use what remains of the tree after the 2013 xmas ice storm.

To climber's right of Alfred Gulley. Passes to the right of a tree and ends in the notch shared by the 'traditional' gully downclimb. Convenient for a walk off or a last climb of the day.

Thin face climbing leading to a nice rest, then pull the roof.

Start at Vanna and climb right-trending ledges to the top.

Left side of Alfred’s Wall.

Starts on a solid layback for the first few bolts and then moves to a more technical slab near the top.

On the very (climber's) left of the Iguana wall with an overgrown belay area. Climb the vertical forest, trying to dodge the trees.

Walk about 15m climbers left of Is She Pretty past the steep gully on your right. This route goes up the pinnacle between the Iguana and Alfred wall.

Go about 2/3s of the way along the pinnacle and start left of the obvious arching dead tree, goes under and right of this, following the left leaning crack system up to a small roof. Pull through this on good layback holds and climb the fun and clean dihedral above. When this ends, walk right onto the big ledge and go up the blocky groove to the base of the easy(mostly unprotectable) but fun slab to the top of the pinnacle, follow this to a great belay and sightseeing spot at the very top.

A fun climb with a number of roofs to pull. Start slightly left of the painted number 11B and a curving tree which leaves the ground growing horizontally.

Anchors are 2 shunts that you can clip and lower off on. Do not top rope on them, hang draws instead please.

Begin in the dihedral just right of Is She Pretty. Transition to the chimney and offwidth section, which gets easier as you gain height. It is possible to finish on the anchors of Is She Pretty.

The 5.8 trad section is now bolted to the ground, separate from Train in Vain. Thin face climbing, good rests and many, many liebacks.

The 5.8 trad section is now bolted to the ground, separate from Fear and Loathing. Surmount the roof using the wide crack and face holds, then try to control the pump on fairly sustained 5.11 climbing to the top.

A fun, slightly reachy climb with a number of cruxes and good rests in between. Begin in the tall rectangular alcove right of Train in Vain, about 8-10 meters left of I Owe a Lot of Money to a Man Named Guido (note the small tree midway up the cliff between Train in Vain and Forever Young). New lowest bolt added after unstable flake came down, now stickclipable.

Climb relatively straight cracks to an overhang. Exit left instead of pulling the overhang.

Right of Forever Young. The same line as Axolotl except you pull the roof instead of exiting left.

Mellow climbing up until the tree. Powerful and dynamic moves through the roof to a pumpy finish. Permadraws at the top.

This is the rightmost route on the Iguana Wall. Starts up the crack. Make your way to the top on small edges and crimps.

As of 2016, this route has been bolted from the ground up. There is no need to place trad gear for the first third of the climb.

Unable to delete or merge correctly.

Unable to delete or merge correctly.

Bolted route immediately right of Guido, left of the HUGE dead tree halfway up. Same bolts as "Catch As Catch Can" but avoiding the crack out to the right. When you’re level with the base of the dead tree, follow a crimpy line left of the bolts. Contrived.

Bolted route immediately right of Guido, left of the HUGE dead tree halfway up. Shares the start with Tall Order. Climb up the tricky start that gives the route the lower grade to the base of the dead tree. Try to avoid using the tree but give in, then follow the crack laying back with partial body jamming. Avoid the loose blocks at bolt 3 and 4, as well as the loose chockstone at the top of the crack as you approach the anchors.

The bolted route right of the huge dead tree halfway up. Hop on the sharp flake to start and follow messy cracks and flakes to the bulging face above. Great movement.

Climb up blocky terrain to an overhanging arete that leads to easier holds. Try to avoid going into the corner and using the tree.

Right of The Hunchback. Start behind the tree, and take a delicate start minding the loose rock at the bottom. A tricky start with a tricky roof problem. Fun.

Climb the fun crack up to a great rest. Pull the roof. No cheating onto Ten-D-Nitus!

This is the bolted line left of Big O Tree (a bit left of the painted number 13), and is located under the lookout.

This route is equiped with lower off cold shuts.

Between Big O Tree and Ten - D - Nitus is a nice crack which starts very wide and soon narrows down. About mid-way up, avoid the tree from the left. It is possible to lower off the Ten - D - Nitus anchors. The climb protects fairly well.

Bolted line right of the painted number 13, by a large tree. Begin at a left-facing corner, pass a small roof and climb the face to the top. Fun beta-intensive climbing. Might be one of those rare climbs which is harder for taller people.

Short delicate route on slopers with nice texture. A few rusty washers may need to be inspected. Anchors.

Slab like start leads to hand/off width crack up top. Route starts just right of the blocky chimney on the big game ledge.

Farthest left route on Big game ledge, this route follows a chossy start over a roof and into higher quality slab finish.

This five ten fun is Located on the right face of the arête before the chossy roof on the furthest left side of the ledge. Features two small cruxes separated by a great rest.

Short trad route that provides access to the big game ledge.

Rightmost bolted route beside the Big Game Ledge. Easy climbing up to a roof or two.

Scramble up to the ledge to start the climb. Use a stick clip. Powerful moves right off the start, with a techy finish. Guidebook says 5.11d but consensus is at least hard 5.12a

Start left of number 16A.

Starts at 16B. Fun dihedral climbing up to a ledge.

Start at number 17A. Climbs to share same tree anchor as 17B. Bring long slings to sling trees at cliff top to build anchors. Then either top out and walk off or pull rope through (on clean) and rappel.

Start at number 17B. No bolted anchors, bring long slings for the big tree to build anchors at top of cliff. Top out and walk off or pull rope through and rappel off the large tree on clean.

2 meters to climber's right of 17B. Start on ledge behind some plants. First bolt is on right facing rock, which can be clipped from ledge. Traverse and move up. Shares a short section with its neighbour climb story (crux here), but then ventures to the left again. Finish on the black rock just behind the cedar at the top.

High first bolt off of ledge on the left face of a corner. Climb sandy and damp (but positive holds) up corner to gain the face. Neat rest ledge, then tackle a short arete move, onto some crimps. Rest before the steep finish through the roof.

Located on the "The Party on Pinnacle" ledge, its the right most bolted line. A blocky start eventually leads to a headwall.

Start at number 18C.

Climb the off-width chimney.

A hand crack 1m right of "Corkscrew Chimney" or 1m right of # 18C.

Climb widening crack to ledge. Traverse right to hidden crack which leads to top avoiding the cedars.