Old Baldy Rock climbing66 routes in crag
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A great sport climbing crag with a number of good trad lines as well.
A permit is no longer required to climb at Old Baldy. Parking cost $4 for all users, or $30 for a seasons pass. Up to date access information for Ontario climbing can be found here: http://www.ontarioaccesscoalition.com/crag-status/
Park for the Old Baldy area, part of the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority. Information is available here: http://www.greysauble.on.ca/ca_lands/oldbaldy.html
From the parking lot follow the Bruce Trail. Take the first right on the Bruce Trail to stay on the white blazoned trail. This will take you to the cliff. Then turn left, following the trail along the top of the cliff. Keep to the right at all forks, and eventually the path will descend a steep slope at the end of the cliff. At the bottom of the slope, turn back and follow the base of the cliff until you come upon the 'Fallout Wall'.
This crag is one of the oldest sport climbing crags in southern Ontario. It was closed to climbing for much of the '90s and was reopened to climbing with a permit system through the work of Judy Barnes and the Access Committee of Ontario (a precursor to the OAC).
In 2010 and 2011, with support from MEC and coordinated by the OAC, bolts were updated on many routes meaning that despite the age of the crag, most hardware is new.
The property is owned by the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority (GSCA). Until 2014, portions of the cliff base were private property. With support from the climbing community, MEC, The Alpine Club of Canada and others, the OAC organized the purchase of the property which was then donated to the GSCA. After this the permit system was removed in lieu of a pay-parking system.
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