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Description

Very similar climbing to Lions Head, minus the hanging belays

Access issues inherited from Old Baldy

A permit is no longer required to climb at Old Baldy. Parking cost $4 for all users, or $30 for a seasons pass. Up to date access information for Ontario climbing can be found here: http://www.ontarioaccesscoalition.com/crag-status/

Approach

From the parking lot follow the bruce trail. Take the first right on the bruce trail which will take you to the cliff. Then turn right, following the trail. Keep to the right at all forks, this will eventually take you down a scramble at the end of the cliff. At the bottoms of the scramble, turn around and follow the base of the cliff. This is the first area of bolted climbs that you will come upon.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10c Rabid Grannies Sport 11m, 4

Crux is from ground to second bolt. Not a spectacular route. There are better routes for the grade.

2
5.11b Climb Hard or Take in a Show Sport 14m, 4

Crux is on the bottom, recommend to stick clip first and second bolt. The route climbs to the left of the first bolt and a fall here will result in a groundfall unless you are comfortable at the grade.

3

Easy climbing to the third bolt, past there it gets steeper and harder. Crux is getting to the anchors.

4
5.9 Domestic Pressure Sport 15m, 6

Same start as Domestic Pressure-Direct. At the third bolt you traverse left.

5
5.11d * Fallout Sport 20m, 6

Pretty straight forward climbing, hardest section is from the first bolt to the fourth. After that it is very enjoyable 5.10 climbing to anchors.

6
5.11a *** Tiny Bubbles Sport 20m, 6

Probably the best for the grade at Baldy. steep moves until you are past the 4th bolt.