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Access issues inherited from Old Baldy

A permit is no longer required to climb at Old Baldy. Parking cost $4 for all users, or $30 for a seasons pass. Up to date access information for Ontario climbing can be found here:


Follow the approach for the crag, this is the first area you will come upon.


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Grade Route
5.8 Blood n Valour Sport
5.10c Rabid Grannies Sport 11m, 4

Crux is from ground to second bolt. Not a spectacular route. There are better routes for the grade.

5.11b Climb Hard or Take in a Show Sport 14m, 4

Crux is on the bottom, recommend to stick clip first and second bolt. The route climbs to the left of the first bolt and a fall here will result in a groundfall unless you are comfortable at the grade.

5.10a Domestic Pressure-Direct Sport 9m, 4

Start in the gully in the 'Fallout Wall' on the left. Climb straight up to the third bolt through some relatively easy climbing. From here continue straight up ('Domestic Pressure' traverses left from here), the crux is getting to the anchors.

5.9 ** Domestic Pressure Sport 15m, 6

Start as for 'Domestic Pressure-Direct'. At the third bolt traverse left.

5.11d * Fallout Sport 20m, 6

Pretty straight forward climbing, hardest section is from the first bolt to the fourth. After that it is very enjoyable 5.10 climbing to anchors.

5.10d *** This Little Piggy Trad

FA: Peter Croft, Peter Reilly & Ziggy Isaac

5.11a *** Tiny Bubbles Sport 20m, 6

Probably the best for the grade at Baldy. steep moves until you are past the 4th bolt.

The following routes start around the corner of the southern pinnacle.

5.10b *** Resplendence Trad

Starts 4m left of 'Fallout'.

FA: Peter Zabrok & John Kaandorp


FA: Peter Croft

5.11b ** Socket World Trad 2

FA: Peter Reilly, Ziggy Isaac & Peter Croft

5.11b * Martin's Chimney Trad
5.12d *** Christina's World Sport 2

FA: David Smart

5.9 Elan Vital Aid 2

FA: Pete Zabrok & John Kaandorp


Check out what is happening in Fallout Wall.