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The best concentration of easier sport routes at the crag, this area is also shaded basically all day, making it very comfortable during the summer and colder in other seasons.

Access issues inherited from Old Baldy

A permit is no longer required to climb at Old Baldy. Parking cost $4 for all users, or $30 for a seasons pass. Up to date access information for Ontario climbing can be found here:


From 'Fallout Wall', continue north until you pass the broken bench. Head up to the cliff and scramble up (class 4) into the crevas. For an easier approach, continue hiking around the west side of the central pinnacle and turn back to climb into the crevas from the north.


View timeline of historical ascents

Some of the routes listed as sport were trad routes, but were retro-bolted with the permission of the First Accensionists.


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Grade Route

Main Wall Routes

These routes are located on the main wall of the cliff. Routes are listed from south to north.

5.10d Look Moe, a poifect coicle Sport 15m, 5

Starts outside the south end of the alleyway, on the mainwall under some overhanging rock. Crux is on the bottom, stick clip the first bolt, and be ready to swing if you fall.

5.7 ** Who's That Change Guy Sport 15m, 10

Located behind the pinnacle inside the "Alley". Starts on the 2m "step". Follow the right set of bolts.

FFA: Randy Kielbasiewicz/ Melissa Armstrong, 2013

Set by Randy Kielbasiewicz/ Melissa Armstrong, 2013

5.6 * Sneakers and Roids Sport 15m, 10

Located behind the pinnacle inside the "Alley" Starts on the 2m "step" (stack of boulders). This route takes the left line of bolts.

5.9 * Gridlock Sport 15m, 7

Located behind the pinnacle inside the "Alley". Start 2m left of Sneakers and Roids. Stay to the right at the top to gain the anchor jugs, harder to climb the face.

5.10c Indigo Girl Sport 14m
5.10b * Optical Delusion Sport 14m
5.10d Neo Nautilus Sport 14m
5.11b Undomesticated Sport
5.10c ** Split Leggings Sport
5.12b Labour Pains Sport

Pinnacle Routes

The following routes are located on the pinnacle, opposite the main cliff wall. Routes are listed from south to north.

5.11c * Amadeus Rocks Sport

FA: Martin Seidenschmid

5.11a Salieri's Revenge Sport
5.10c Jagged Edge Sport
5.10a * Pins and Needles Sport 15m, 5

Acurately named route due to the sharp pockets on the route. Located directly opposite of 'Gridlock'. Beware of a potential ground fall potential before clipping the second bolt.

5.6 * Why does Sara's butt hurt? Sport 14m, 4

Located to the right of 'Pins and Needles', start by the large rock near the north end of the alley. Some big moves for a 5.6, but easy climbing.

Set by Wade Meade, 2013

FA: Wade Meade, 2013

5.6 ** Return of the Jingoid Sport 14m, 6

A retro-bolted trad line (originally a 5.6), this is the last bolted line to the north on the inside of the pinnacle.


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