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Description

This is the second area you come upon when you walk along the cliff line going North. The best concentration of easier sport routes at the crag.

Access issues inherited from Old Baldy

Climbing at Old Baldy requires a permit. The form is available at http://public.greysauble.on.ca/publications/downloadable/old_baldy_climbing_application.pdf

Approach

From Fallout Wall, head north until you pass the broken bench, then head up to the cliff,and scramble up into the crevas to find the alleyway, the main wall is just on the other side of the crevas.

History

Some of the routes listed as sport were trad routes, but were retro-bolted with the permission of the First Accensionist.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10d Look Moe, a poifect coicle Sport 15m, 5

Crux is on the bottom, stick clip the first bolt, and be ready to swing if you fall.

2
5.6 That Climb Sport 12m, 4

Belay from below the scramble up to the crevas. First bolted line in the alleyway on the right wall.

FFA: Randy Kielbasiewicz/ Melissa Armstrong, 2013

Set by Randy Kielbasiewicz/ Melissa Armstrong, 2013

3
5.6 * Unknown Sport 12m, 4

Second bolted route on the main wall inside the crevas. Fun climbing.

4
5.10a Pins and Needles Sport 15m, 5

Acuratly named route due to the sharp pockets. Opposite from Gridlock.

5
5.9 * Gridlock Sport 14m, 5

Straight forward, stay to the right at the top to gain the anchor jugs, harder to climb the face.

6
5.6 * Why does Sara's butt hurt? Sport 14m, 4

Route to the right of Pins and Needles(on the pinacle), start by the large rock near the north end of the alley. Some big moves for a 5.6, but easy climbing.

Set by Wade Meade, 2013

FA: Wade Meade, 2013