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Description

A 50m granite face of excellent quality located in the heart of Bancroft

Access issues inherited from Eagle's Nest

Some sections of the cliff are on private property.

Approach

Located approx. 2 km north of the town center along Hwy 62, park behind the plaza across from Tim Horton's

History

View timeline of historical ascents

This cliff has been re-discovered many times since the 1960's. Currently there is a new wave of route development, with numerous possibilities.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10a Unknown 1 Mixed 20m, 1

Starts just right of the large, black chimney known as the Dirty Harry ice climb were there is a ledge 3m up. Climb the face to a bolt, continue on the left leaning crack that cuts the side of the dirty harry gully (mid way up) to a ledge with anchors shared with Unknown 2.

2
5.9 Unknown 2 Trad 20m

Start just to the right of Unknown 1. Climb up a flaring finger crack that heads straight up then trends to the right side of a large bulge, to a ledge with anchors.

3
5.8 ** Balk and Chalk Mixed 40m 2, 6

Start 10m right of Unknown 2. P1: Climb the easy slab to a line of bolts, continue up a finger crack towards a small ledge with a dead cedar to a bolted anchor (20m, 5.7). P2: Continue up, past a bolt, following a nice finger crack through a small bulge, past another bolt, to an anchor (20m, 5.8)

4
5.8 ** Unknown 3 Trad 25m

Start 5m right of Balk and Chalk. Climb up big holds through a short right facing crack onto easier slab. Straight up to anchors.

5
5.9 * Unknown 4 Sport 20m

Start 3m right of Unknown 3. Climb easy ground up to the first bolt, following the bolts through progressively harder slab climbing. Finish up at a large tree on the right, or continue up on gear. May want some small pieces to protect the slab, or prepare for runout sport.

6
5.9 *** Jonny Be Good Trad 20m

Climb a short, slightly overhanging left facing corner, up the face to the right side of a large flake under a roof. With style traverse the flake left using underclings to a handcrack in the roof. Climb through the roof and up to a large tree with slings on it. Rappel.

7
5.10c ** Unknown 6 Sport 15m, 5

5m left of Perspective. Follow the bolted line up a steep thin slab to rappel anchors.

8
5.6 ** Perspective Trad 40m 2

The prominent hand crack up a small buttress. P1: Follow an obvious offwidth crack up and through a blocky overhang (crux), continuing up to a small ledge and anchor (5.6, 25m); P2: Either climb straight up from the belay (harder) or traverse right around a large block and up a hand crack to a large ledge with rap bolts (5.5, 15m). Rappel.

9
5.9 ** Father and Son Sport 20m, 8

This was the first sport climb at Eagle's Nest and was hand drilled while the first ascensionist's father belayed patiently over 2 days (bolts took 30 min. each!) Start 3m right of Perspective at a birch tree. Use the tree to keep the grade at 5.9. Climb the bolted S-shaped line up a vertical wall with good holds to the anchors for the first pitch of Perspective.

Set by Shaun King, 1998

FFA: Shaun King, 1998

FA: Shaun King, 1998

10
5.10a Unknown 7 Sport 20m

Start 3m right of Father and Son. Either climb the dirty bottom crack on gear or scramble up to a ledge to get the 1st bolt. Continue to the 4th bolt where the route forks. Either traverse left from here (5.9) or climb up to another bolt, then traverse left (5.10a). Climb the poorly protected slab to the anchors for the first pitch of Perspective.

11
5.10a *** Spine of the Dragon Trad 25m

Start 3m right of Unknown 7, up a rock step and around the corner. Climb the right leaning dihedral to a bulge with a finger crack through it, around a small roof to anchors.

12
5.8 Stairway to Heaven Trad 50m 2

Located 10m right of Spine of the Dragon. P1: Start in a corner facing left and climb the steep flaring groove to a ledge with a tree. Climb up a groove and traverse right across a cracked slab to a second tree and anchor. Often wet. (5.8, 15m); P2: Climb the offwidth crack and continue up the large easier flake to an anchor (5.8, 35m). Rappel. Bring doubles of large gear to 6".

13
5.11b Fingerstinger Trad 50m 2

One of the finest finger cracks in Ontario. P1: Climb the first pitch of Stairway (5.8, 15m); P2: Traverse left and climb up and left along a diagonal crack until you are at the roof below the headwall crack. Layback and stem strenuously over the roof and climb the finger crack to an anchor (5.11b, 20m). Double rope rappel or climb up to the top (5.4, 15m)

FFA: Peter Reilly, 1986

FA: David Smart, 1986

14
5.10d Unknown 8 Mixed 10m, 2

5m right of Stairway to Heaven. Climb up and left to a bolt, then up past another bolt to a large ledge with anchors

15
5.8 *** Plumber's Crack Trad 50m 2

Start 5m right of Unknown 8 at the chimney-like corner. P1: Climb up past a piton and bolt to a large ledge, past the anchor for Unknown 8, up face to another ledge with large tree and anchor for Stairway (5.8, 15m); P2: Climb up the thin crack to a small roof, through the finger crack in the roof and into larger crack leading to the top of Stairway (5.8, 35m). Rappel.

16
5.6 Santa Claus Trad

This route is located at the south end of the crag. Start in an offwidth and fight your way up an awkward hanging chimney and dihedral facing left. Exit up large detached flakes and a short headwall.

17
5.5 Ivy League Trad

Right of Santa Claus. A very dirty rock route, named for the poison ivy on the route.

FA: Norbert Kartner & Al Melkic, 1975

18
5.5 Black Book Trad

Right of Ivy League. Take a gully in an open book past an overhanging lip to a ledge. Climb the rock gully past a large pine tree to the right.

FA: Norbert Kartner & Al Melkic, 1975

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