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Description

A 50m granite face of excellent quality located in the heart of Bancroft

Access issues inherited from Eagle's Nest

Some sections of the cliff are on private property.

Approach

Located approx. 2 km north of the town center along Hwy 62, park behind the plaza across from Tim Horton's

History

View timeline of historical ascents

This cliff has been re-discovered many times since the 1960's. Currently there is a new wave of route development, with numerous possibilities.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10a Unknown 1 Mixed 20m, 1

Starts just right of the large, black chimney known as the Dirty Harry ice climb were there is a ledge 3m up. Climb the face to a bolt, continue on the left leaning crack that cuts the side of the dirty harry gully (mid way up) to a ledge with anchors shared with Unknown 2.

2
5.9 Unknown 2 Trad 20m

Start just to the right of Unknown 1. Climb up a flaring finger crack that heads straight up then trends to the right side of a large bulge, to a ledge with anchors.

3
5.10c ** Unknown 6 Sport 15m, 5

5m left of Perspective. Follow the bolted line up a steep thin slab to rappel anchors.

4
5.6 ** Perspective Trad 40m 2

The prominent hand crack up a small buttress. P1: Follow an obvious offwidth crack up and through a blocky overhang (crux), continuing up to a small ledge and anchor (5.6, 25m); P2: Either climb straight up from the belay (harder) or traverse right around a large block and up a hand crack to a large ledge with rap bolts (5.5, 15m). Rappel.

5
5.11b Fingerstinger Trad 50m 2

One of the finest finger cracks in Ontario. P1: Climb the first pitch of Stairway (5.8, 15m); P2: Traverse left and climb up and left along a diagonal crack until you are at the roof below the headwall crack. Layback and stem strenuously over the roof and climb the finger crack to an anchor (5.11b, 20m). Double rope rappel or climb up to the top (5.4, 15m)

FFA: Peter Reilly, 1986

FA: David Smart, 1986

6
5.8 Stairway to Heaven Trad 50m 2

Located 10m right of Tail of the Serpent. P1: Start in a corner facing left and climb the steep flaring groove to a ledge with a tree. Climb up a groove and traverse right across a cracked slab to a second tree and anchor. Often wet. (5.8, 15m); P2: Climb the offwidth crack and continue up the large easier flake to an anchor (5.8, 35m). Rappel. Bring doubles of large gear to 6".

7
5.11b Unknown 9 Mixed 10m, 2

5m right of Stairway to Heaven. Climb the line past 2 bolts to a large ledge with anchors

8
5.8 *** Plumber's Crack Trad 50m 2

Start 5m right of Unknown 9 at the chimney-like corner. P1: Climb up past a piton and bolt to a large ledge, past the anchor for Unknown 9, up face to another ledge with large tree and anchor for Stairway (5.8, 15m); P2: Climb up the thin crack to a small roof, through the finger crack in the roof and into larger crack leading to the top of Stairway (5.8, 35m). Rappel.

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