Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Ontario 1,878 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -85.785435, 50.187759

Description:

Granite

1.1. Eastern Ontario 408 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -76.473716, 44.890451

Description:

The eastern part of Ontario. Mostly gently rolling hills and river valleys/plains. The main city and population center of the area is Ottawa, the capital of Canada.

1.1.1. Bon Echo 123 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -77.188432, 44.903650

Unique Features And Strengths:

At 90m, the tallest cliff in Southern Ontario.

Description:

Bon Echo climbing is actually on a cliff called "Mazinaw Rock" in the Bon Echo provincial park. This is a 2km long granite cliff rising out of Mazinaw lake up to a height of 90m or so. Climbs are generally accessed from the water, so a boat is usually needed.

The Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) - Toronto section maintains a hut and camping area near the climbing and a boat for access to the camping and cliff.

As of Spring 2014, the ACC has a web page describing the hut and climbing at: http://alpineclubtoronto.ca/bonecho/ .

A guide book is (currently as of May 2013) available in PDF at: http://alpineclubtoronto.ca/bonecho/guidebook.html

Access Issues:

The cliff is in a provincial park, and permission to climb is granted based on a Memorandum of Understanding between the ACC and the park.

As of March 2011, the rules are:

  • Don't sling the trees!
  • Some routes are closed because of pictographs at their base. Please respect route closures.
  • No new route activity.
  • No rappelling except at a few designated sites or in an emergency.
  • The wearing of helmets when climbing at Bon Echo is now MANDATORY!!!!

As of March, 2011, the complete MOU is posted at: http://www.climbers.org/bon-echo-memorandum-understanding

Approach:

By boat.

Where To Stay:

Bon Echo provincial park camp ground. ACC hut and camping area.

Ethic:
  • Don't sling the trees!
  • Some routes are closed because of pictographs at their base. Please respect route closures.
  • No new route activity.
  • No rappelling except at a few designated sites or in an emergency.
  • The wearing of helmets when climbing at Bon Echo is now MANDATORY!!!!

1.1.2. Red Rock: Pet Wall 41 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -77.489413, 45.680352

Unique Features And Strengths:

3 cliffs (one largish, two smallish) and a boulder field out in the woods near Pembroke, Ontario.

There is easily enough rock to double the number of routes here!

Description:

3 cliffs (one largish, two smallish) and a boulder field out in the woods near Pembroke, Ontario.

Note: most lines were bolted with the expectation that a stick-clip would be used. Bring one, or make one from a convenient branch.

Access Issues:

Most of the cliff and approach is on crown land. Some of the climbing is on private land -- the owner (John Jeffrey) has, historically, been friendly. "He likes to talk." Please be courteous and friendly if you meet him -- likely running around on a 4-wheeler.

There are, also, usually active nesting Peregrine falcons on the left side of the main cliff (left of the waterfall) -- avoid this area during the spring and summer months.

Approach:

From highway 17 in Pembroke, drive west (left if coming from Ottawa/east) on county road 58 / Round Lake road for about 28km. At that point, there will be a small picnic/parking area on the left, pull in here and park. (If you reach Round Lake, you have gone too far.) This is Jacks Lakes picnic area, though not signed as such.

* beavers have flooded the bridge. You can get across the top of the damn but you will get wet to your knees. *

Walk back up the road about 1/2 a km, until just past a wire guardrail on right, at which point there should be an obvious trail descending into the woods to the right. Follow this to a shallow crossing with a bridge that is partially under water and much of a beaver dam -- cross at this point. Wet-appropriate foot wear may be desirable. On the far side, follow the obvious path, winding through the woods, across what looks like a portage trail until it widens, then t-junctions with a logging road. (Straight-ahead, through the trees, is a sand pit.)

Turn left, and follow the logging road as it skirts around the sand pit. After a while, there's be a clear view of the sand-pit on the right, looking slightly backwards. At this point follow the road away from the sandpit. Shortly, there will be a trail heading off to the left. (Currently, summer 2014, marked by a rock sitting on a chunk of sawn log.) This trail heads towards a double-decker boulder, visible within a minute or so of leaving the logging road.

Continue along the trail until you reach the boulder field. Stop here for the bouldering, or continue along the most obvious path through the boulder field, then out the far side and shortly you'll reach a fallen maple tree, with a red helmet hanging by it, and a fixed rope along the right side of the trail.

From this point, the trail branches to the various cliffs -- see detailed approach information on each cliff.

Ethic:

Top Roping: Most/all routes have top-anchors. Please do not pass rope directly through the fixed gear for top-roping, use your own gear & only use the top-anchors for final lower or rappel.

1.1.3. Calabogie 219 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -76.785416, 45.253415

Unique Features And Strengths:

Kilometre+ long cliff near Ottawa Ontario.

Description:

Near the Calabogie Peaks ski resort, there are a pair of cliffs, The Main Cliff, and the Lake Cliff. Both are granitic gneiss and decent rock, but the Main Cliff has seen most development, with a rennaissance in the last year (2010) after the NCC closed most of the climbing in the Gatineau Park.

The Main Cliff is a kilometre or longer continuous cliff generally ranging in height from 12m-25m. It runs perpinducular to the road, generally giving approach times in the 5-20 minute range along fairly easy hiking trails.

The Lake Cliff faces differently and is mostly undeveloped, with uphill bushwacking (10 minutes) required for the approach.

Access Issues:

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

The approach to Lake Cliff appears to cross private land, and the cliff may be on private land as well.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

Approach:

From Ottawa, take highway 17 west, then turn left onto county highway 508 (Calabogie road). Follow the 508 past Calabogie and along the shore of Calabogie lake.

Main Cliff and Boulders parking is just a big dirt shoulder. The bigger parking section is at

45°16'23.45"N 76°48'34.70"W

Which is 2.5 km past the Barrett Chute Road (last left turn before pull-off, the road that turns left just before the ski resort).

That will get you access to the top of the cliff. A 2 minute walk west on the road will reveal a slightly smaller dirt shoulder, that will get you access to the bottom of the cliff.

History:

The main cliff was first climbed in the late 70s through late 80s, then it dropped in popularity. A few routes near 2nd easy way down continued to be climbed, but the rest of the cliff was rarely visited.

Starting in 2010, when the NCC closed much of the Gatineau park to climbing, climbing at Calabogie started to revitalize, with the development of new routes, including a fair bit of bolting of anchors and the setting up of a lot of sport routes. This development has continued through, at least, 2011.

This may lead to a differentiation in grades, the old, trad, routes were graded "old school", while the newer routes seem to be being given more "modern" grades, possibly resulting in nearby routes with similar difficulty level easily varying by a couple grades.

1.1.4. Kingston Mills 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Top Rope and Sport

Long/Lat: -76.445301, 44.289251

Unique Features And Strengths:

Small crag close to Kingston.

Description:

Kingston Mills is the southern-most set of locks on the Rideau Canal system. It has a number of small cliffs (in vertical, and in extent) with a few routes on them. Cliff-top access is generally easy for setting top-ropes, and bolted anchors exist for many of the routes.

The rock is granite.

Walls are list right to left, as encountered on the approach. Climbs should be left-to-right as traditional. (But, currently, may not be well-ordered.)

A guidebook - "Kingston Mills, A Climber's Guide" by Rob Chisnall exists, but current (2011) availability is not clear. Try the Boiler Room climbing gym in Kingston.

Access Issues:

The cliffs are on Parks Canada land, in particular they are under the Ridea Canal Authority. Currently they tolerate climbers, and have done work to make the cliffs safer (2001-2002). They ask that you sign and mail a waiver to them before climbing.

As of spring 2011, the waiver (and information about access) was available from: http://www.ontarioaccesscoalition.com/downloads/Kingston%20Mills%20Waiver%20and%20Insert%202002.pdf

Approach:

(Google) map to Kingston Mills, Ontario. There is a parking lot on the south side of the road. Follow the trail from the parking lot along the canal, under the railway bridge, until you come to the cliffs. About 5 minutes.

History:

Most of the development has been done by Rob Chisnall.

1.1.5. Hogs Back Falls 10 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -75.698084, 45.370892

Description:

A small spot with some lovely scenery right in the middle of town. Grades tend to be generous compared to Gatineau and Calabogie but are internal consistent.

Approach:

Park at either Moony's Bay or Hogs Back Park. The boulder is located across the bridge, through the park at the far end of a scree field.

1.1.6. Coyote Rock Gym 0 routes in Gym

Description:

A generally friendly gym in eastern Ottawa.

1737B St Laurent Boulevard Ottawa, ON K1G 3V4

http://www.coyoterockgym.ca/

Approach:

Entrance is around back, in an industrial/ware-housing looking area.

1.1.7. Landons Bay 0 routes in Crag

Access Issues:

Parts of Landons Bay are now part of the St. Lawrence Islands National Park.

Approach:

As the crag is located above the bay, approach during the summer is best done via canoe.

1.1.8. Little Blue Mountain 0 routes in Crag

Access Issues:

Private property. Closed to climbing.

1.1.9. Vertical Reality 0 routes in Gym

Description:

161 Middle Street Victoria Island Ottawa, Ontario K2H 8N5

http://www.verticalreal.com/home/index_e.php

1.1.10. Marble Rock 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Several boulders and a few small cliffs can be found in this area.

Access Issues:

Located within Marble Rock Conservation Area.

Approach:

From exit 645 on Highway 401 drive north to Marble Rock Road (about 4.5km). Turn right (East) onto Marble Rock Road and follow it for about 4km to the conservation area.

Where To Stay:

The nearest hotels/motels can be found 10 minutes South in Gananoque, Ontario. Camping can be found within 10 to 20km of the area.

1.2. South-Western Ontario 703 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -80.483723, 43.713258

Description:

The areas of Ontario generally surrounded by the three great lakes: Ontario, Erie, and Huron. The largest population centre is Toronto, and the megapolis that extends around the north-western to western shores of Lake Ontario.

Much of the climbing in the area is on the limestone of the Niagara escarpment.

1.2.1. Halton Region 455 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -79.894287, 43.516062

Description:

These are the "Toronto" crags, being an approximately 40 minute drive from Toronto. The crags listed here are on Conservation Halton land (http://www.conservationhalton.on.ca/) and include both sport and trad routes. Top-roping is prohibited except at 'Rattlesnake Point', 'Buffalo Crag' and 'Bottle Glass' where top-anchors have been installed. As a result of heavy traffic due to the proximity to Toronto many of these routes are heavily polished and may climb much harder than their purported grade.

1.2.2. Beaver Valley 197 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -80.384968, 44.414668

Description:

The Beaver Valley is home to some of the best moderate sport climbing on the Niagara Escarpment. Many of the crags have seen recent development with routes being (re)bolted to modern standards.

1.2.3. Bruce Peninsula 33 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: -81.244163, 44.903964

1.2.4. Niagara Glen 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -79.056261, 43.130968

Access Issues:

To boulder at the Niagara Glen a permit is required. Permits can be purchased at the Niagara Glen Nature Center (3050 Niagara Parkway) or at the Butterfly Conservatory (2565 Niagara Parkway). They cost $20 and require a signed waiver. Note that some boulders are currently closed due to environmental impact concerns. For more information on permits, trails and which boulders are open/closed see http://www.niagaraparksnature.com/things-to-do/bouldering.html

1.2.5. Hamilton 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Ice

1.3. Central Ontario 20 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Ice and other styles

Long/Lat: -81.100833, 46.407053

1.3.1. Greater Sudbury 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: -80.991817, 46.510430

Description:

A few small cliffs and boulders within the greater Sudbury area.

1.3.2. Manitoulin Island 0 routes in Crag

Description:

This area has 100s of meters of 15-25m high cliffs. They are accessible from the "Cup and Saucer". Most are un-named, or names not known, many are ungraded. There is some bolting for climbs and top anchors -- but generally trees are used for top anchors.

There are, also, a lot of boulders in the area.

Some additional information, including a basic topo at: http://www.sudburyclimbing.com/manitoulin.html

At least 17 developed climbs in the 5.5-5.11 range, but lots more potential.

Approach:

Cup and Saucer Hiking Trail

1.3.3. Eagle's Nest 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Ice, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: -77.860289, 45.071598

Access Issues:

Some sections of the cliff are on private property.

Approach:

Park behind the plaza and make your way through the bush to the cliff.

1.4. Northern Ontario 747 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: -87.326901, 51.597174

1.4.1. Kenora 136 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -94.610696, 49.925598

1.4.2. Blue Lake 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -93.502528, 49.912732

Unique Features And Strengths:

At the waters edge, within a provincal park

Description:

All free Climbing

Access Issues:

You have to check in at the park office prior to climbing.

Approach:

You can boat across or walk down the trail.

Where To Stay:

Camp ground or hotel in Dryden

Ethic:

No new routes or bolts without park managment permission

History:

Est in 2006

1.4.3. Edison Lake 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

1.4.4. Thunder Bay 565 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: -88.149508, 48.755120

Unique Features And Strengths:

A variety of cliffs on different types of stone in the gorgeous setting of the north shore of Lake Superior.

Description:

Climbing in and around Thunder Bay. Generally different crags and cliffs within about a 2-hour drive of the city of Thunder Bay.

As of 2012, the most current guide to climbs in this area is Thunder Bay Rock by Alex Joseph and Randy Reed. (http://orders.climbingcentral.com/thunder-bay-rock.html )

Sub-areas ordered roughly west to east.

Access Issues:

Varies from crag to crag.

Approach:

Varies from 2 minutes to several hours depending on the crag.

1.4.5. Montreal River-South Bay 0 routes in Crag

1.4.6. River Bend Rock 0 routes in Crag

1.4.7. Bellevue Tower 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4.8. Ranwick Rock-Keetes Bluff 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4.9. Summerian Slabs 0 routes in Crag

1.4.10. White Pine Dome 0 routes in Crag

1.4.11. Robertsons Ridge 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4.12. Hwy 72 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad