Routes as alpine in Canada

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 122 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Alberta Canmore Mount Fable Mount Fable
5.5 Southwest Ridge

FA: D. Gardner, C. Locke & G. Walsh

5.10a Direct Finish

FA: G. Reisenhofer & party

Alpine 120m, 3
5.10a The Boulevard

FA: S. DeMaio

Alpine 400m
5.5 Southeast Ridge

FA: G. Kinnear & P. Spear

Alberta Canmore Lady Macdonald
5.6 Se ridge

Go along close to the crest (left side) of ridge on various trails for about 1 hour for about 500 m. until hit first rock band – 30 m high wall. Checked down and left but couldn’t find easy spot. Apparently the easy scramble route is farther uphill to the right. We went up a 5.4 groove for 30 m and then scrambled some slabs and trees for another 50 m.

Put rope away if used it as it is another 1 hour as go up scree, small rock bands and treed ridge until hit second rock band which is 50m+ wall. Lots of cairns and we went down and left to the find the 5.5 layback crack beside a big tree. Need a left hand underhand move to go up this and some people rate it at 5.4. Good protection placements in crack. Top of ridge in another 20 m.

Now on rock ridge, go over exposed knife edge sections, some bolts(hangers removed as of aug/2011) and over one 5.2 tower. Put away the rope again for 20 -30 min as hike down scree and back up along broad ridge as it turns left. Scramble around some towers and up to a large tower/rock band that blocks the ridge. The trails leads right for 100 m along a 10 m wide ledge at the base of the band and then up easy rock for 15m to another ledge at the base of second rock band. Traverse back left to the top of the tower and then up onto upper rock band/rock ridge. This would be quite easy if dry but it was deep snow when we did it and not pleasant as we wallowed and were at risk of avalanche. A group behind climbed a 5.6 groove to the right of the tower but it was wet and we had our boots on so we went with the snow. Some groups rate this as 5.5/5.6 when dry and it would be much faster and safer than going around on the ledges.

The upper rock ridge has sections of knife edge and rubble- moderate scrambling. Some diversions left around towers/rock bands and eventually comes to the final steep 50 m high rock band. This looks steep but an easy 5.3 route slants up 30 m and left across the face and puts you on the scree/rubble slopes which lead to the false summit above the teahouse. 6 hours in total.

Alpine 6
Alberta Banff Mt. Louis
5.7 III Kain Route

The original route followed by MacCarthy/Kain in 1916. Following numerous pitches of easy climbing/difficult scrambling from the East, this route gains the imposing south face and shares the final 8 pitches or so with the Gmoser Route. The most difficult, exposed, and enjoyable climbing is at the Perren Crack (last two pitches).

FA: A. H. MacCarthy & Conrad Kain, 1916

Alpine 700m
5.8 III Gmoser Route

Second/Clean of this dog tooth mountain. 14 pitches, the second last pitch grade 16(?)crack is totally exposed with 3000ft dropoff to valley below...check out the pics of Mt Louis on Canada climbing webpages

FA: H. Gmoser, 1964

Alpine 700m
5.10 III Homage to the Spider

6 pitches of sustained, technical climbing, with an involved scrambling approach and several hundred metres of 4th and low-5th class climbing to the summit. Notoriously underestimated for its hard climbing.

FA: Tim Auger & Reg Bunyen, 1987

Alpine 700m, 6
Alberta Banff Mount Cory, West Face
5.8 Mountaineer's Route Alpine 510m, 10
5.8 Hoka Hey! Alpine 430m, 9
Alberta Lake Louise Mt. Temple
5.7 AI3 IV East Ridge
Alpine 1800m
Alberta Lake Louise Mt Hector
5.9 Apollo

Ascends the prominent South Ridge to the summit. For more information, see the TABVAR website:

Alpine 300m, 10
Alberta Jasper Mt. Edith Cavell
5.7 IV North Face
5.3 III East Ridge
British Columbia Vancouver Crown Mountain
5.10a Widowmaker's Arete

Scramble up to a comfortable height 10-15m to the left of the major arete, roping up when scrambling gets harder. (p1) Climb up cracks at about 5.8 for 25m. (p2-4) Mostly 3rd class scrambling on slabby ground to gain the ridge, which is then traversed to the first headwall (p5-6) Either climb the headwall direct up the large flake and good cracks, or push through scrubby ground to a sling belay at 20m, with the option of linking into the next pitch, moving R and up to climb past small trees with possible belays. 5.7-5.9. (p7-8) 3rd class along the ridge to the final headwall. (p9) Multiple options up the final headwall, the most common being a narrow chimney with chocks around the corner to the right. Poor protection. 5.8. (p10) Traverse left to reach a short fist to hand crack on the face, with a crux move giving way to ramps with loose rock. Up easier ground to the top. Rap off the far side and escape to the Crown Mountain hiking trail.

Alpine 450m, 10
British Columbia Vancouver Island North Vancouver Island Victoria Peak
5.1 East Ridge Alpine 1500m
5.8 South Ridge Alpine 500m
5.8 Northeast Buttress Alpine 400m, 8
5.8 The Sceptre

West face couloir.

Alpine 600m, 10
British Columbia Vancouver Island Nanaimo and the Mid-Island Mount Arrowsmith and Mount Cokely
5.6 IFAS:D North Face Alpine 100m
5.6 IFAS:AD R West Ridge Direct Alpine 700m
5.1 IFAS:AD Rudy's Route Alpine 350m
5.8 D- Get a Grip Alpine 200m
5.1 Southwest Couloir Alpine
Class 4 IFAS:PD Unjudges Route
Alpine 350m, 2
5.1 IFAS:AD Pete's Route Alpine 100m
Class 4 IFAS:PD Lost Gully Alpine 350m
5.1 IFAS:AD Arrowsmith to Cokely Traverse Alpine 6700m
5.1 IFAS:AD Steplandia Alpine 200m
British Columbia Vancouver Island Strathcona Park Mount Colonel Foster
5.7 IFAS:AD Suspension Ridge Alpine 1800m
5.8 IFAS:D Gamblers Bluff RH Alpine 350m, 8
5.2 IFAS:AD Southeat Peaks South Gullies Alpine 800m
5.8 IFAS:D Fosters Logger Alpine 600m
5.8 IFAS:D Bitterlich Route Alpine 600m
5.6 IFAS:D Summit Traverse Alpine 2200m
5.8 - 10 AI2 IFAS:D Snow Band Route Alpine 800m
5.8 IFAS:TD Cataract Arete Alpine 1400m
5.8 IFAS:TD East Face Alpine 1100m
5.2 IFAS:TD Grand Central Couloir Alpine 1200m
Super Arête Alpine 1200m
5.10- IFAS:TD Into the Mystic Alpine 1200m
5.10- IFAS:TD Double Shot Alpine 1200m
5.8 IFAS:TD Waters-Monjo Route Alpine 1000m
5.8 IFAS:TD Head Games Alpine 1000m
D+ Northeast Couloir Alpine 700m
5.2 D- AI1 Walsh's Foray Alpine 1100m
5.8 Ruth's Ramble Alpine 1000m
5.8 D Sid's Scramble Alpine
5.9 D+ R X-Rated Alpine
5.8 D North Buttress Alpine 400m
Class 4 IFAS:AD Northwest Face Alpine 180m
5.9 D- Lost boys Alpine 180m
Class 4 IFAS:AD West Face Alpine
Class 4 AI1 IFAS:AD Walsh's Return Alpine 450m
5.8 IFAS:AD Shunt's Utopia Alpine 450m
Class 4 AI1 IFAS:AD Great West Couloir Alpine 330m
5.8 D- R Southwest Couloir Alpine 350m
British Columbia Vancouver Island Strathcona Park Elkhorn/Kings area King's Peak and Queen's Peak
5.4 II King's Peak North Ridge Alpine 700m
5.7 Pauper's Buttress Alpine 300m
5.8 Jester Alpine 100m
British Columbia Vancouver Island Strathcona Park Elkhorn/Kings area
5.8 North Ridge Alpine 400m
5.8 North Face Alpine 300m
5.1 Northwest Ridge Alpine 400m
5.1 West Gullies

"Standard route"

Alpine 250m
5.1 South Ridge Alpine 600m
5.10b Into the Sadistic Alpine 500m
5.7 Northeast Face Alpine 400m
British Columbia Vancouver Island Strathcona Park Golden Hinde
5.4 South Face Alpine 300m, 5
5.9 North Ridge Alpine 300m
British Columbia Powell River The Eldred Valley Psyche Slab
5.9 III Delusional Reality
2 5.9

FA: Colin Dionne & Christy Lepitre

5.10 III Psychopath
2 5.10

FA: Rob Richards, Casey Richards, Lisa Padgett & John Hagen

5.9 III Sanitarium
2 5.9

FA: Michelle Thibeault & Colin Dionne

British Columbia Powell River The Eldred Valley Amon-rudh
5.9 IV On the Virg.
2 5.9

FA: Aaron Black, Victor Ting, Kris Wild & Colin Dionne

British Columbia Squamish Tantalus Range Alpha Mountain
IFAS:AD East Ridge
Alpine 450m
IFAS:AD Northeast Spur
Alpine 450m
IFAS:AD North Buttress
Alpine 450m
FR_ALT:4 IFAS:AD Northwest Buttress
Alpine 600m
British Columbia Squamish Tantalus Range Mt Dione
IFAS:AD Mt Dione Southwest Spur
Alpine 400m
FR_ALT:4 IFAS:AD Mt Dione Southeast Face
Alpine 400m
British Columbia Squamish Garibaldi Range
5.10a Phyllis' Engine Direct Finish

Instead of climbing the 5.8 corner to the rap tat, step left into the double crack and through the roof crack to the top. Great climbing!

Alpine 120m, 4
British Columbia Chilliwack Slesse Mountain
5.9 Mt. Slesse NE Buttress Alpine 760m
British Columbia Yak Peak
5.6 Seven One Move Wonders of the World

Climbs to the actual summit and not the false summit About 200m of bushwhacking / hiking / scrambling is required to get to the summit from the final bolted pitch. All anchors up to pitch 14 are bolted. If rappelling, 2 60m ropes are required.

Alpine 790m, 14
British Columbia Bugaboos Bugaboo Spire
5.6 Kain Route

FA: Conrad Kain

Alpine 450m
British Columbia Bugaboos North Howser Tower
5.11d A2 All Along the Watchtower Alpine 1200m
British Columbia Bugaboos Snowpatch Spire
{AU} YDS:5.9 surfs up Alpine 300m
British Columbia Bugaboos Pidgeon Spire
5.4 West Ridge Alpine 500m
British Columbia Bugaboos Crescent Spire
5.10- McTech Arete

Bolted anchors, gear for the pitches

Alpine 180m, 6
5.10a Surprisingly Subsevere Alpine 6
British Columbia Bugaboos Crescent Towers
5.7 II Ears Between Alpine
British Columbia Kitimat Ranges Kitlope Range Mount Blane West Face
5.10a M4 IV Life Compass

FA: Brette Harrington & Rose Pearson, May 2018

Alpine 980m
Newfoundland South Coast/ Burin Peninsula Blow-Me-Down Cliff, Devils Bay
5.8 I Screetch
2 5.8
5.9 I Devil's Advocate
2 5.9
5.10a I Straight to Hell
2 5.10a
5.11b II Savage Seas
2 5.11a/b
5.12b I Save the Ales
2 5.5
3 5.12b
Alpine 2
5.11b III Dead Reckoning
2 5.5
3 5.11b
Alpine 2
5.11 I Hydro Slave
2 5.5
3 5.11
Alpine 2
5.10d III Lost at Sea
2 5.10d
5.10 III The Moratorium
2 5.10
5.12c V Lucifer's Lighthouse
2 5.12c

FA: Chris Weidner & Justen Sjong


Showing 1 - 100 out of 122 routes.