Routes in Saltspring Island

Climb face on the far right side following a thin seem.

Face climb starts by climbing down the boulder and stepping across the gully onto the main face.

Starts at the base of the gully. Up the leaning pillar to the arete.

Start up the chimney to the little roof and continue through the upper chimney.

This route is on the far left side of the wall. Follow directions to the TAC Arete. Climb starts right of Bajo Techo. Start up easy slab. Step across to the slightly overhanging wall on the right and continue to the slab above.

Face climb

Face climb

Arete climb

Climb over the roof and follow the right side of the slab

Start up the crack (crux) to the sustained face above. Shares anchor with Cobble Wobble. Anchor hook to lower off.

Climbs up the arete. Shares anchor with La Cansadora. Anchor hook for lowering off.

Head up the fixed line to the big ledge. Climb is on the far right side of wall. Thin start to juggy overhang. Anchor hook for lowering off.

Up the fixed line to the big ledge. Climb the far left side of the wall near the big tree. Finish is overhanging on big holds. Anchor hook for lowering off.

Face climb snaking up left to mid station, right around a bulge then left to the top 1st pitch- 5.9, 11 bolts, chain station, 33m 2nd pitch- 5.9, 10 bolts, chain station, 33m

Nice easy climb with great exposure. Rapple in. Hike out option with fixed lines.

1st pitch, 5.8, 8 bolts, 33m, chain station

2nd pitch, 5.8, 8 bolts, 33m, chain station

3 pitch route up the left arete of the wall. Pitch 1- 5th grade scramble, 3 bolts, rap station, 10m. Scramble up the easy ramp to the ledge. Pitch 2- 5.8, 13 bolts, chain station, 30m. Climb arete to ledge midway up wall. Pitch 3- 5.8, 12 bolts, chain station, 28m. Follow ramp to the left then up the middle of the face.

First pitch follows the left curving crack to hanging belay below the big ledge. The second clip can climb through onto the big ledge to a secondary anchor then brings the lead climber up. This is to prevent the potential of rock fall moving onto the big ledge as there is lost of loose rock. Pitch 2 climbs the left arete of the upper wall finishing with a left traverse near the top.

P1: 5.10c, 9 bolts, chain station, 24m P2: 5.10b, 11 bolts chain station, 32m

Pitch 1 climbs the double crack in the middle of the wall to the big ledge. Pitch 2 follows the upper right arete/face.

P1: 5.9, 12 bolts, chain station, 30m P2: 5.9, 11 bolts, chain station, 30 m

Pitch 1 starts far right of wall heading up arete. Pitch two moves right onto another rock face and finishes on a third face to the top.

P1: 5.8, 11 bolts, chain station, 29m P2 5.10a, 13 bolts, bolt station, 33 m

A straight face climb up the wall. Pretty easy.

A difficult start turns into a leftwards moving climb

Short route on top of the Snow Wall

Far left of wall. Starts right of the arete and follows it to the top

Follow the crack into a pretty easy face climb. Plenty of holds.

A face climb starting up a little ramp to steeper wall above.

Head straight up the rock. A little runout between 2nd and 3rd bolt but easily doable.

A face climb follows features in the wall to overhanging bulge. Fun climb.

A bit further from the two other routes. The crimpy crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. easy climbing to finish the route.

Just after the first bolt, head left along the rail and then traverse back right.

A pretty straight climb. Bolts are hard to see because they are more reddish brown. Crux near the top

Slab face on the far left side of the wall. Big and juggy

Vertical start to easy slab face climbing

Vertical face start to easier slab face climbing

Right of "Kid", "n' Play zigzags up the far right arete

A cruxy start turns into a nice climb.

A thin face climb to the end. Stay away from the outside corner because of loose rock.

A relatively easy but long climb. Very juggy.

Follows the arete on the left side of the wall. Shares first bolt and anchor with "Confused".

Follows the flake on the right side of the wall and around the bulge above. Shares first bolt and anchor with 'Dazed".

Climb left of Cankers. Starts on a bouldery overhang crux that leads to some easier slab climb to mid-station. Top pitch goes over to easy bulges.

1st pitch- 5.10a, 7 bolts, 25m

2nd pitch- 5.8, 7 bolts, 30m

First climb you see from Snow Wall. Start on the slightly overhang section and transition to the slabby section. Second pitch heads right after the second bolt.

P1: 5.10c/d, 9 Bolts

P2: 5.9, 8 bolts

Right of Cankers. Climb up a dihedral crack and move left through a bulge at the top of the crack. Continue face climbing to the anchor. On the second pitch stay left and continue straight up. Shares anchor and first 2 bolts on second pitch with Cankers

P1: 5.10a, 8 bolts

P2: 5.9, 9 bolts

3 pitch, 5.8

Starts to the right of BIO (Buns In the Oven). Starts up the slab to a ledge. Step over the ledge to face climbing to mid station. Nice face climbing to the top of the second pitch. Second pitch tops out on a big ledge that you could walk off to Dead Ents Wall. 3rd pitch is a face climb on the wall to the left. Finishes right of Cankers. Good climb to start multi-pitch climbing. Great big wall exposure but easy

1st pitch, 5.8, 5 bolts, chain station, 20m

2nd pitch, 5.8, 6 bolts, bolt station, 25m

3rd pitch, 5.8, 5 bolts, bolt station, 15m

An easy start to the 3rd bolt. Finish is slightly overhanging.

Juggy Slab on the left side of the wall

Juggy slab on the right side of the wall

An overhanging start leads to some nice face climbing before finishing on an overhanging bulge

Traverse thin seem/face to connect with Soiled Diapers

Face climb to two bulging seems. Upgraded after crux hold was broken off.

Thin face leads to two bulging rows. Good holds through the roof if you can find them. Crux hold has been broken off making the route harder. More like 5.11c/d

a climb right of Mighty,Tighty,Whitey going through a series of cracks and bulges

Start up the protected flake to the horizontal crack and prepare for the crux.

A thin face climb right of Askin' For It. Finishes on a under clinging flake.

A fun strenuous climb through roofs and overhangs with a one finger pocket crux

Starts left of tree. Climb goes diagonally to the right on overhanging wall with jugs. Careful with a fall as it will swing you into the tree to the right.

Starts right of tree. Up overhanging wall with jugs

Climb the ramp on the far left side of the wall to bulge above.

Bouldery climb up the shoulder just left of Snagglepuss.

Climb the dihedral that follows the large fir tree to a slab mid station. First pitch can be stemmed out to the tree downgrading it to 5.9. A nice face climb for the second pitch.

P1: 5.10c, 11 Bolts, 25m (5.9 if stemmed out to tree)

P2: 5.9, 5 Bolts, 15m

Follows the crack to the top. Small nuts to big cams. Some bolts are placed throughout the route where gear placement was lacking. First couple of pitches are covered in moss as this route hasn't seen much traffic.

Big detached flake around the corner from "My Best Friend's Girlfriend"

Nice dihedral climb 20 m to the right of "Fulford Flake". Small nuts and cams. 2 old pitons for an anchor.

Fun big wall climb without the exposure. Climbs up large crack chimney feature on the far left of the wall.

1st pitch, 5.10a, 3 bolts and gear, SR to 4", 25m Start up a small face to a slab. Pull over a bulging overhang (5.10a) to a layback dihedral slab.

2nd pitch, 5.9, 2 bolts and gear, SR to 4", 15m. Work your way up vertical faces and steps.

3rd pitch, 5.8, 7 bolts, 20m. Climb the arete slab.

4th pitch, 5.10a, 6 bolts/ sling on tree, 15m. Vertical face to stemming

Large arching feature below "1922" and finishes at the first bolt on the first pitch of 1922. Mixed climb with 8 bolts and gear to 4"

Closed- Incomplete project

Follows the big left leaning crack at the base to a finger/hand crack the leads straight up the middle of the wall.

Pitch 1, 5.8, gear SR to 4, chain station, 20m

Pitch 2, 5.10b, 1 bolt/gear SR to 4, chain station, 20m

Pitch 3, 5.10b, 2 bolts/gear SR to 4, chain station, 30m

Pitch 4, 5.8, 1 bolt/gear SR to 4, chain station, 30m

Face climb right of Centre Crack. Starts at the Centre Crack.

Pitch 1, 5.9, 9 bolts, chain station, 30m

Pitch 2, 5.10a, 12 bolts, chain station, 35m

Pitch 3, 5.7, 10 bolts, chain station, 30m

Closed Project

Climb on the right side of the wall that starts left of "Ramped Up". Pitch 1 goes up the steep ramp, right of the big crack full of vegetation. Pitch two continues up to the right around the arete and connects to Pitch 2 of "Ramped Up". You can continue up pitch 3&4 of "Ramped Up" to the top of the wall.

P1, 5.9, 13 bolts, chain station, 30m

P2, 5.9, 9 bolts, chain station, 20m

Climb on the far right side of the Hueco Wall up a series of ramps.

P1 5.8, 11 bolts, chain station, 23m. Heads up the wall to the arete on the right.

P2 5.7, 8 bolts, chain station, 20m. Continues up a series of blocks to bigger face above.

P3 5.7, 9 bolts, chain station, 20m. Moves through a wall with some huecos.

P4 5th grade scramble, 3 bolts, chain station, 16m. Finishes on a easy slab.

This is a great, fun climb.

This wall is found below the Hueco Wall. Roped trail takes you to the start.

P1 5.9, 11 bolts, chain station, 27m. Start up the wall to the big right curving crack and follow to the right.

P2 5.8, 8 bolts, chain station, 20m. Continues up the big crack and finishes on the big treed ledge.

Face climb on the left of the arete. Shares first 3 bolts with Claire's.

Climb right of the arete/face. Shares first 3 bolts with Phil's.

Climb the crack/Features of the boulder on the right of Claire's.

Start left of the crack through series of pockets and jugs.

Follows the left leaning crack to the top.

Climbs through bands of pockets.

A fun face climb with pockets and jugs.

Climb the crack to the dihedral above. For trad, rack of nuts and small cams.

Follows the seam traversing to the left. slightly overhung. small holds to the 4th bolt. jugs along the arete.

Starts up the crack and moves right at the big ledge. Slightly overhanging.

Face climb through pockets and ledges. Overhanging start.

Thin bouldery start on overhanging face.

Reachy start up a seam to bands of pockets and pebbles above.

Thin overhanging face far left of the crack.

Starts up the overhanging face left of crack.

Overhanging crack in middle of wall. (Trad, SR to 4")

Climb right of crack on overhanging face.

Slightly overhanging crack on the left side.

A difficult overhang start turns into thin holds.

Climb up the right ramp into a slight overhang.

A bouldery start leads to a corner finish.

A layback start into a pumpy overhang

Start on the detatched rock to the top of the fin. Finish on the left overhanging face.

A hard bouldery start leads up an easy ramp and then back into a pumpy overhang.

A thin sustained face climb.

A left slanting dihedral crack.

An easier left slanting crack to the right of Impacted Wisdom.

Climb the left arete of the cliff face

Climb up the centre of the cliff face