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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.11c *** Local Heroes Sport 28m, 5

If Local Boys Do Good seems too easy, test your rubber on this friction pitch. Start by traversing a seam left to the first bolt then grit your teeth and smear directly up the slab.

FA: Tom Clark, David George, 1992

2
5.11a ** Local Boys Do Good Sport 80m

This Squamish classic forges up the dark slab left of Klahanie Crack linking together dyke edges, chicken heads and intricate smears. It shouldn't be missed by connoisseurs of fine slab climbing. Many just do the first pitch.

3
5.7 ** Klahanie Crack Trad 30m

Perfect crack on amazing Squamish low angle slab granite. Jam away.

4
5.10a *** Split Decision Mixed 30m, 4

Start 10m right of Klahanie Crack. Follow a tight hand crack to a four-bolt arch and the anchor.

FA: Jeremy Frimer, 2011

5
5.8 * Urine Too Deep Trad 50m

Climb Split Decision and then follow a right trending, runout white dyke all the way to Cardhu Crack. Climb this pitch to the top of the wall. Either rappel the route (50m) or descend a steep trail to the south.

FA: Glenn Payan, John Thompson, 1996

6
5.8 *** Dirty Dickey Trad 30m

fun left angling crack same start a Cardu crack from small tree ledge.

7
5.8 * Cardhu Crack Trad 40m

Even with the 70m it didn't quite reach but the lower section is low class 5 so the climber can be lowered to there and climb down a little. Climb has a little of everything but is prone to some wetness.

FA: Glenn Payan, 1997

8
5.11c Magic Carpet Ride Unknown 110m
9
5.11c Not Your Normal Nightmare Unknown 110m
10
5.10 *** Skywalker Mixed 150m, 6

Bolted belay stations! A classic moderate that you can add some flare to if you want!

To the right of Magic Carpet Ride, you'll find the very obvious clean start.

  1. Start on some good slabby edges up past a bolt, gain the crack and move right. Bolt-protected slab traverse gets you to the first belay station.

  2. 5.8 a classic corner with an optional 5.10 variation. The variation has a mild runout on the first tenuous moves.

  3. Ascend a nice and easy right-leaning crack system.

  4. The easiest (5.4) pitch but the main reason people climb this route - fantastic views as you traverse the slab beside a good roof.

  5. A short pull gains the upper slab and a quick walk past 3 bolts finds the top anchor. Walk off to climber's right.

FA: Jeremy Frimer

11
5.10a AWOL Sport 30m, 8

FA: Chris Lawrence, Brian Jones, Andre Ike, 2009

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