Fern Hill All sport climbing

28 routes in crag

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Summary

Good quality sport climbing on vertical or gently over-hanging stone. From spring to midsummer the mosquitoes can be a real problem at the base of the cliff. Be warned!

Description

Crag is located in the hills behind the Smoke Bluffs. The rock contains an abundance of nice handholds, perfect for athletic routes. Enjoy the pump!

Approach

From Highway 99, turn onto the Mamquam Forest Service Road (Forestry Road) and drive 3.6km to an obvious Y-intersection. Turn left here onto Powerhouse Springs road, follow for 1.5km and park in obvious area on the left. Walk to the end of the parking area and follow trail through concrete barrier blocks and up track to a mountain bike trail called "The Farther Side". Follow this trail uphill for 10 minutes past numerous switchbacks until you are traversing the forest below the cliff.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.11a * Little Tree Sport 12m, 5

Tricky route lies at the right hand end of the cliff. Belay off the ledge. Do it only when you've done everything else.

2
5.12b *** The Vikings are Coming Sport 22m, 8

The crux is pulling the first small bulge, but the route is committing after the crack. Belay off the ledge. Popular.

3
5.12c ** Charlie Don't Surf Sport 22m, 8

Prepare for moderate climbing with a distinctive boulder problem in the middle of the bulge. A tough on-sight. Grungy.

4
5.12d *** Burning the Coil Sport 22m, 9

Sustained climbing right of the dyke. A variation finishes through a roof on the right, but doesn't change the grade. The name is a reference to the multitude of mosquito coils used during crag development. High in the grade.

5
5.11c *** Burp the Worm Sport 20m, 7

Climb the prominent, protruding dyke feature. The moves are never straightforward and the route forces you to surf back and forth around the dyke. Quality.

6
5.11a ** Solitary Confinment Sport 22m, 8

This was the first route on the wall and went up over a decade ago. It's a somewhat nondescript ramble-fest of climbing with a variety of short cruxes. Mostly 5.10

7
5.11d ** Serenity Now Sport 22m, 10

Similar to Solitary Confinement, but with harder boulder problems. Funky climbing.

8
5.11a *** Good Times Sport 25m, 11

This excellent pitch finishes through a cool roof at the top. Perplexing climbing throughout makes it feels tough for the grade. The final moves are wild!

9
5.12a *** Good Times in a Snowglobe Sport 25m, 9

Climb Good Times until it's possible to link into the upper corner of Snowglobe. Worthwhile.

10
5.12d *** Snowglobe Sport 25m, 9

If you survive the onslaught of technical and balancy cruxes in the bottom half of this pitch, you'll be rewarded with a pumpy and powerful dihedral on better holds.

11
5.12a *** Kenny vs. Spenny Sport 25m, 9

This pitch is immediately in front of you when you reach the wall coming up the approach trail. Climb the juggy corner with a crux up high. It's harder than it looks and may be difficult to on-sight.

12
5.12a *** It's Not About You Sport 27m, 9

Moderate climbing leads to a large, hollow flake. From here, the climbing is interesting and thoughtful on mostly positive holds and great rock. High in the grade. Must do!

13
5.12b *** Blood and Pepper Sport 25m, 7

This is the left-most route of three long 5.12s that tackle the steep featured wall. This climb has a boulder crux with a very long move and a tricky, endurance finish. Look out if you're short! High first bolt.

14
5.12b ** Yellow Fever Sport 15m, 6

Climb a short overhanging wall on basalt-like rock surrounded by yellow lichen. Save some juice for the end. Bouldery and tough for the grade.

15
5.12c *** Quaker Oats Sport 15m, 7

This route starts off a rocky mound with a boulder problem in a small overhang. The undulating, smooth wall above is no cakewalk. Stick clip the first two bolts.

16
5.10b *** Ants Go Marching Sport 28m, 11

This long route is fun and adventurous. The rock quality is good and the moves near the top are enjoyable and athletic on big holds.

17
5.10a ** Three or Four Times a Night Sport 18m, 6

Interesting face climbing tackles the wall just right of The Honeymoon is Over. The boulder sequence up high gives the route its grade.

18
5.11d ** All Night Long Sport 25m, 9

Short extension to Three or Four Times a Night

19
5.8 ** The honeymoon is Over Sport 18m

The reasonable moderate heads straight up a fractured face before trending left on big holds to an anchor. The quality is average, but it's popular nonetheless.

20
5.8 * Happy Feet Sport 20m, 7

Climb the mellow corner left of The Honeymoon is Over. Curve around the bulge at the top. This is the easiest route on the wall, but is also the last to dry. Bolted sport climbs at this grade are a rarity in Squamish.

21
5.11a *** Typical Squamish Sport 20m, 8

Start just left of The Honeymoon is Over with a tricky opening sequence on a smooth face that leads to better holds on a rail above. Nice climbing culminates with a technical crux high on the wall.

22
5.11d ** Mudraker Sport 18m, 6

A steep boulder problem tackles the low bulge. If you happen to find yourself standing above it, a tricky weaving line up the face above will give you a run for your money on the dash to the anchor.

23
5.11c ** The Dividing Line Sport 18m

Another challenging boulder problem in the low bulge gives way to better holds. It's not over until you've crimped across the upper wall!

24
5.12b *** Where Are They Now? Sport 20m, 11

Climb up to the obvious low roof. Bear hard left then back right and up the blank wall above.

25
5.11b *** The Lady Switcher Sport 20m, 11

Start up Hot Chaud. At the obvious horizontal hand rail, head right via fixed quickdraws. Tricky and tenuous moves lead to steep, juggy hauling left of the alcove.

26
5.12b *** Hot Chaud Sport 20m, 7

Blocky, overhanging climbing leads to a tricky boulder problem around a small roof. Sustained and steeper than the typical route at Fern Hill

27
5.12b ** Who's Next? Sport 20m, 6

The line left of Hot Chaud is a pumpy journey up a blocky face. You'll need good power endurance and a cool head for the sting in the tail!

28
5.11b ** Story of My Life Sport 20m, 6

This route is far left, around the corner. A thuggish start leads to a tough crux exiting the mid-height dish.

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