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Summary

Good quality sport climbing on vertical or gently over-hanging stone. From spring to midsummer the mosquitoes can be a real problem at the base of the cliff. Be warned!

Description

Crag is located in the hills behind the Smoke Bluffs. The rock contains an abundance of nice handholds, perfect for athletic routes. Enjoy the pump!

Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Approach

From Highway 99, turn onto the Mamquam Forest Service Road (Forestry Road) and drive 3.6km to an obvious Y-intersection. Turn left here onto Powerhouse Springs road, follow for 1.5km and park in obvious area on the left. Walk to the end of the parking area and follow trail through concrete barrier blocks and up track to a mountain bike trail called "The Farther Side". Follow this trail uphill for 10 minutes past numerous switchbacks until you are traversing the forest below the cliff.

Routes

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Grade Route

Tricky route lies at the right hand end of the cliff. Belay off the ledge. Do it only when you've done everything else.

The crux is pulling the first small bulge, but the route is committing after the crack. Belay off the ledge. Popular.

Prepare for moderate climbing with a distinctive boulder problem in the middle of the bulge. A tough on-sight. Grungy.

Sustained climbing right of the dyke. A variation finishes through a roof on the right, but doesn't change the grade. The name is a reference to the multitude of mosquito coils used during crag development. High in the grade.

Climb the prominent, protruding dyke feature. The moves are never straightforward and the route forces you to surf back and forth around the dyke. Quality.

This was the first route on the wall and went up over a decade ago. It's a somewhat nondescript ramble-fest of climbing with a variety of short cruxes. Mostly 5.10

Similar to Solitary Confinement, but with harder boulder problems. Funky climbing.

This excellent pitch finishes through a cool roof at the top. Perplexing climbing throughout makes it feels tough for the grade. The final moves are wild!

Climb Good Times until it's possible to link into the upper corner of Snowglobe. Worthwhile.

If you survive the onslaught of technical and balancy cruxes in the bottom half of this pitch, you'll be rewarded with a pumpy and powerful dihedral on better holds.

This pitch is immediately in front of you when you reach the wall coming up the approach trail. Climb the juggy corner with a crux up high. It's harder than it looks and may be difficult to on-sight.

Moderate climbing leads to a large, hollow flake. From here, the climbing is interesting and thoughtful on mostly positive holds and great rock. High in the grade. Must do!

This is the left-most route of three long 5.12s that tackle the steep featured wall. This climb has a boulder crux with a very long move and a tricky, endurance finish. Look out if you're short! High first bolt.

Climb a short overhanging wall on basalt-like rock surrounded by yellow lichen. Save some juice for the end. Bouldery and tough for the grade.

This route starts off a rocky mound with a boulder problem in a small overhang. The undulating, smooth wall above is no cakewalk. Stick clip the first two bolts.

This long route is fun and adventurous. The rock quality is good and the moves near the top are enjoyable and athletic on big holds.

Interesting face climbing tackles the wall just right of The Honeymoon is Over. The boulder sequence up high gives the route its grade.

Short extension to Three or Four Times a Night

The reasonable moderate heads straight up a fractured face before trending left on big holds to an anchor. The quality is average, but it's popular nonetheless.

Climb the mellow corner left of The Honeymoon is Over. Curve around the bulge at the top. This is the easiest route on the wall, but is also the last to dry. Bolted sport climbs at this grade are a rarity in Squamish.

Start just left of The Honeymoon is Over with a tricky opening sequence on a smooth face that leads to better holds on a rail above. Nice climbing culminates with a technical crux high on the wall.

A steep boulder problem tackles the low bulge. If you happen to find yourself standing above it, a tricky weaving line up the face above will give you a run for your money on the dash to the anchor.

Another challenging boulder problem in the low bulge gives way to better holds. It's not over until you've crimped across the upper wall!

Climb up to the obvious low roof. Bear hard left then back right and up the blank wall above.

Start up Hot Chaud. At the obvious horizontal hand rail, head right via fixed quickdraws. Tricky and tenuous moves lead to steep, juggy hauling left of the alcove.

Blocky, overhanging climbing leads to a tricky boulder problem around a small roof. Sustained and steeper than the typical route at Fern Hill

The line left of Hot Chaud is a pumpy journey up a blocky face. You'll need good power endurance and a cool head for the sting in the tail!

This route is far left, around the corner. A thuggish start leads to a tough crux exiting the mid-height dish.

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