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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10a Sunny Girl Unknown 25m
2
5.10a * Sunny Boy Unknown 25m
3
5.10c The Bro Unknown 20m
4
5.10c ** Washington Bullets Unknown 20m
5
5.11a ** The Brunser Overhang Unknown 20m
7
5.11a Psyched for Life Unknown 22m
8
5.13a Seams Easy Unknown 20m
9
5.10a * Fist Unknown 22m
10
5.9 ** Handful Unknown 15m
11
5.8 Up For Grabs Unknown 10m
12
5.8 * Flake Off (aka Flake On) Unknown 25m
13
5.4 Wakey Wakey Unknown 50m
14
5.10d Mickey Mantle Unknown 10m
15
5.8 *** Jugs, Not Drugs Sport 15m, 5

This is the super-fun, juggy face on the far left-hand end of the Betazoid Wall. There's nothing else like it in Squamish.

FA: Colin Moorhead & Calvin Adams, 2011

16
5.11c *** Gertrude Sport 12m, 3

This quality, overhanging face has a powerful crux at the third bolt. Named after Calvin's prized hen.

FA: Calvin Adams & Colin Moorhead, 2011

17
5.12a ** Doxycycline Sport 10m, 4

FA: Gord Konkin, Che Edwards, 2007

18
5.12b ** Betazoid Sport 10m, 3

This short, steep route shares the same start as Beat The Clock. It's powerful and features a tough clip. Be quick!

Set by Dan Jackson, 1990

19
5.11d ** Beat the Clock Sport 10m, 3

Traverse right along a sharp flake. The crux comes as you pull the lip. A small TCU at the top might be helpful.

Set by Larry Ostrander, Dave Dancer, 1988

20
5.8 * Milkmaid Unknown 25m
21
5.10d Lena Unknown 25m
22
5.10c ** Fallout Trad 28m

Climb past a fixed pin in a shallow corner right of Jesus Eyes. Continue up to a leftward traverse into a crack, pull onto the Wakey Wakey slab and climb to a high anchor. The name Bellevue was given to a 1962 climb graded 5.6 that seems to match the modern line of Fallout. The disparity in grades has created much confusion.

FA: (Bellevue) Hamish Mutch, Ian Kennedy, 1962

FFA: (Fallout) John Howe, Jim Campbell, 1982

23
5.11a *** Xodus Trad 20m

FA: Jim Baldwin, Jim Sinclair, 1961

FFA: Eric Weinstein, Gordie Smaill, 1976

24
5.10b ** Tourist Delight Trad 25m

Climb part way up Xodus; follow right-facing features above.

FA: Jim Baldwin, Ken Baker, 1961

FFA: Andreas Maurer, Kevin Mclane, 1975

25
5.11c ** Mr. Crabbe Trad 35m

Start as for Xodus, but follow the diagonal fault from left to right across the wall to finish on Horrors Of Ivan.

FFA: Peter Croft, Mike Beaubien, 1982

FA: Royal Robbins, 1982

26
5.10d *** Mr. O'Clock Trad 20m

Face climbing betwixt Tourist Delight and Horrors of Ivan.

FA: Peter Croft, Hamish Fraser, 1982

27
5.11c *** El Indio Mixed 20m, 1

Climb right of Mr. O'clock past a bolt. Move into the Horros of Ivan cave; finish above on good but spaced pro.

FA: Kevin McLane, 1985

28
5.11c *** Horrors of Ivan Mixed 20m, 2

Must do! Climb past two bolts to a small cave in the middle of the wall. Move right into a crack to finish. Very popular.

FA: Peter Croft, Hamish Fraser, Tami Knight, 1982

29
5.13 ** The Pass Sport 15m, 4

5.13b. Moderate climbing to a brutal boulder move at the top.

FA: Jim Sandford, 1993

30
5.10c ** The Weak Link Mixed 3

Start this excellent link-up by climbing to the first bolt of The Pass. Head left and up to the Horrors Of Ivan cave, then traverse leftward to finish at the top of Mr. O'clock.

FA: Colin Moorhead, Kai Hirvonen, 2000

31

This excellent, overhanging climb snakes up flakes on the right side of the wall. Super fun and steep for the grade!

FA: Peder Ourum, Clive Thompson, 1981

32
5.10c * Genesis Unknown 25m
33
5.10b *** Geniside Mixed 25m, 2

Climb either of the steep finger cracks left of Genesis. They look harder than they actually are. High Quality.

34
5.10b * Genesis left variant Unknown 25m
35
** Cain and Able Mixed 20m, 2

The corner. Clip the second-to-last bolt of Original Thin before face climbing out left. Hike right to the chains.

FA: Jeremy Frimer, 2009

36
5.11a ** Pseudo-Buddhist Sport 15m, 4

Follow the bolt-line left of Cain and Able. Climb through the top of Original Thin to anchors directly above.

FA: Jeff Thomson, 2009

37
5.10c *** Original Thin Sport 20m, 6

Follow a technical, angling ramp. For 5.10b, step up at the second-to-last bolt and foot traverse the ramp.

FA: Nick Elson, Jeremy Frimer, 2009

38
5.10a * Genesis right variant Unknown 25m