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Summary

Lots of cracks gentle sloping granite. Nice slab climbs Dries fast.

Description

Very busy a lot of the time.

Access issues

Houses close by, so be respectful.

Approach

Hike in on one of the access trails duh.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10d * Foot in the Gravy Unknown 8m

FA: Simon Tooley & Shelley Bracken

2
5.11a Lone Rhino Unknown 8m
3
5.11b Asshole of November Unknown 25m

FA: George Hanzal & Eric Hamel

4
5.11c ** Pink Panther Sport 25m

Slab climb friction test

FA: Jim Bahnuk

5
5.7 * Burgers and Fries Trad 25m
6
5.10a Peaches And Cream Trad 20m
8
5.4 Dusty Eyes Unknown 30m
9
5.10a Frying Brownies Unknown 25m

FA: Barry Wisemann, Bob Wilson & Terry Spurrell

10
5.7 * Wisecrack Trad 25m
11
5.10b Catch Me Trad 25m
12
5.10c Catch Me Quicker Trad 25m
13
5.11a * Over Forty Sport 22m
14
5.10c * Catch You Trad 25m

FA: Gene Smith & Joe Turley

15
5.9 Move It On Over Trad 22m
16
5.11b Swan song Trad 20m

FA: Kris Wild & Trevor Sharkey

17
5.10a Short and Sweet Trad 15m

FA: Bob Wilson, Terry Spurrel & Barry Wiseman

18
5.10c Sweet and Sour Trad 15m

FA: Kris Wild, Fern Webb & Robin Beech

19
5.7 Jammers Delight Trad 20m

This climb starts on a small buttress between the two main sections (Left and Right) of Burgers and Fries.

Climb up a groove with a crack at the back, then step left and up a series of cracks on the face above to a two-bolt anchor. (No lower-offs as of August 2015.)

20
5.10a Casey Unknown 10m
21
5.8 Mr. Dressup Unknown 12m
22
5.5 Easy Breezy Trad 15m

Climb the broken cracks at the left end of the right side of Burgers and Fries wall. (Graded 5.7 in Bourdon 2012.)

23
5.10a Who Needs Bolts? Unknown 18m

FA: Jim Campbell & Bob Milward

24
5.10b Who Needs Pro? Unknown 18m

FA: Jim Campbell & Bob Milward

25
5.10c Predator Unknown 17m

FA: Glenn Payan

26
5.10a High Boltage Line Sport 15m, 5

Climb the broken gully then step right to below the (high) first bolt. (Easy gear in gully if wanted.) Then up the thin face above.

FA: G Payan & J Thompson

27
5.10b * French Leave Unknown 18m

FA: Glenn Payan & J. Thomson

28
5.7 Split Personality Trad 15m

FA: Stuart Smith, 2010

29
5.6 Exit Stage Left Trad 15m

FA: Alan Douglas, 2010

30
5.8 ** Bilbo Baggins Trad 15m

Climbs just left of the corner that "Sour Grass" climbs -- pick one of two starts to a left-slanting crack and follow this.

31
5.7 ** Sour Grass Trad 15m

Starts in a deep corner, goes up this for a few meters, then as it becomes dirty, step left onto the main face and follow the nice hand crack to the top.

FA: Travis Sanwald, 2010

32
5.6 * Frodo's first step Trad 8m

A short crack at the end of the wall on a blocky rock sticking out from the wall. that diagonals up to the left to a ledge. Great starter crack to laern trad.

33
5.8 * Smeagol Trad 8m

FFA: Michelle Jansen

FA: Dave McAllister, 2007

The next climbs are down and right from Smeagol on a detached cliff section.

34
5.8 White Line Fever Trad 25m

The next obvious crack line left of "Truck Stop".

Climb the steep initial face, to a nice ledge with an anchor (climb originally ended at this point, or practice your multi-pitch skills) then up the crack above.

35
5.7 Truck Stop Trad 25m

Named for the rusted old truck sitting at the base of the cliff.

Start at the next crack line left of "Libya Sucks".

Climb easy (5.6 or easier) to a ledge, pull a couple 5.7 moves off the ledge, then easier to the finish.

36
5.9 * Libya Sucks Trad 25m

The 2nd crack left from the fence at the right edge of the cliff.

Bouldery start (5.9) to easier climbing (5.7) above.

FA: Jim Campbell & Bob Millard, 1984

37
5.10a Nookie Monster Trad 25m

Starts at the far right end, just before the ivy & fence. Pick on of two starts, then up the groove with cracks above.

FA: Robin Barley & Peter Shackleton, 1981

Open trips

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