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Description

A Hydro tower sits on the top of this cliff. There are 3 short cracks and anoth climb on the right. There is a sign on the cliff warning about the hydro tower and nearby houses.

Access issues inherited from Smoke Bluffs

Some cliffs are on private land, and closed. Others are close to private homes -- please keep the noise level down near homes, and do not anchor off fences, hydro towers, or anything else that is similar.

Approach

From the end of Burger and Fries Wall at Libya sucks, follow the stair and path to the hydro tower.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.7 * Alexis Cracks Trad 9m

2 obvious cracks - one on the left, the other on the right. With a third possible choice of taking a diagonal from the right to the left.

Short, but sweet.

Bolted anchors at the top of both.

2
5.10c ** White Streak Sport 9m, 3

On the right side of the cliff are 3 bolts, with a high first bolt.

Boulder through the tough, thin, and probably unprotectable start to a stance where it gets slightly less steep to clip the first bolt. (Or use a really long stick-clip.) Then climb the thin face up from there.