Ascents in Smoke Bluffs having Beta

Tricky start but don’t think it’s 10d

3 attempts. First, aided a couple of sections. Second TR sent the route. 3rd lead attempt whipped about 2 moves from the anchor.

First day out for the season

sandbagged

mental training lap, weghted/fell on every piece i placed

2 goes. Worth projecting this one again at some point in the future as I never sent it.

Alternate start from the chimney on the right.

Awesome route, may want some bigger to protect the middle (bigger than a 3).

Super chill great for a new leader.

Tightened the right bolt on the anchor with my nut tool,could probably use a wrench.

Great holds the whole way! Transition into the left leaning crack was the crux for me. Upper crack was fun!

guidebook calls this "Fresh Start 5.7" Definitely more like a 10b, very runout unless you use Stumps to protect the moves

Enjoyable hand crack with cool holds on the slab above

First route of the day. Might have been able to lead. Was nervous about offwidth section.

Quite dirty. One awkward move at the start.

Moves off the deck felt super secure once I got the right jam.

One fall

Boulder start (unprotected!) Then fun climbing

Cool route, but the crux is hard. It starts easy, then there is a section of a steep hand crack, combined with an arret. Then easy but run out until the end.

Dicey start into easy finish

11a in the guidebook and Mountain Project. For someone like who is working my wap up to this grade, it definitely felt harder than a 10d. But for people who warm up on this route before getting on Spiderfly (12a), I can see why it might feel like a 10d.

5.8 in the guidebook

An ill-fated onsight before I had learned the ways of Squam-slabbin. Made it to where the crack seams-out, quested off towards the bolt, grabbed an armload of rope and tried to clip then took a 45m (in my mind) whip onto what I honestly thought was a deadset shithouse bit of gear. Took some effort to dig that baby peenut back out...

Stupidly fun little fingerlock boulder. Full value. Used rope tarp and backpacks as boulderpad.

pretty amusing

Granite crack climbing had been a lesson and a half. Not a solid trad climber, minimal experience on crack and granite put it all together and you got a steep learning curve full of humbling goodness. I laughed, I cried, I swore I wouldn't try it again, I tried it again.

fuckin SPPAAAACCCEDD at the top. KEVIN! my heart

Fuck I thought this was the Dawn Wall

Really stellar hands and fingers. Did it a few more times on TR afterwards for the pure joy of it.

Got super stumped at the crux on lead and spun around trying to figure out the moves. On second tried again with a spanned out right foot that dropped me into an insecure side plank palm press, if anything blew would have broke my nose on the rock. friction slab goodness

awesome to see everyone had a dog fest on this wild traverse

Basically the same as Catch Me but with an even more dicey slab start.

Super nice, following Mega again.

If this is 5.7 then I guess I climb 5.5

Hard off the deck then easy for ages up to a harder-than-you-want mantle topout.

First tie-in in Squamish, granite is slippery but jams be jugs, yo.

Following Meredith's onsight.

Awesome juggy laybacking up a cool line.

Perhaps the weirdest pitch I've ever climbed. Slab-ramp-stemming. Very tenuous.