Ascents in Smoke Bluffs

Proud line, proud send.

Soo wide

Lead aid solo Approx 70mins lead, 60mins to clean including rock retrieved for the wires. Need to work on roof cleaning. Used floating 3rd et, not that useful

First ever 13a.

So freaking fun!! I didn't know my feet could stick to those crystals!

Can confirm this thing is hard. Has less to do with the dexterity of your digits and more to do with recyclability of your rubber. I don't think I can afford to project this one...

Heinously horribly hard. Would like to get this one day tho

Fantastic and puzzling route. The crux might stop you dead in your tracks. The quality of the route is true Smoke Bluffs granite wrestling, burly yet delicate on crystals. Offset .3-.2 cams really place well down low.

That squishy start though

well named

very hard but very fun. young mick, shot for shot, but couldnt link anything. got all moves individualy

Holy fuck that's hard! Season project... maybe. Great crack switch

This route is real but seems like it would go on a good friction day with fresh rubber and sanded tips. Not sure how you'd place the gear though ha-ha

New proj before it gets sunny

Quite a hard smearing move which I did not have time to figure out.

It's almost the season for this route although this crag is definitely a sun trap.

Got this clean on TR for the first time.

Lead burn etc. Man. Sorting out the gear + the movement on this is another realm of difficult. Will be stoked to get this.

Two top ropes in a row clean the other and then failed hard on the redpoint today. Such is life. Must have had half a dozen lead attempts by now. I'll be stoked when I finally get this.

Finally bagged the redpoint for my first 5.12b/26 trad send. Psyched!

Amazing how easy something can feel after you've redpointed it.

Hard. Super cryptic move pulling onto that final slab which I didn't figure out.

2x fitness laps

Awesome route. Very specific beta. Trad, 2 bolts. 5.12c in new guide book.

Nice to have permadraws on it! Fell at the crux move, but pulled the lip and made it to the anchors clean.

This climb is a technical test piece for off-vertical finger crack. Probably the hardest crack I've worked yet in Squamish. Late summer project.

Absolutely stunning climbing. Probably the best slab route I've ever tried. Nice and safe too! Mega proj!

Got on the slab project again. So freakin' rad! Can't wait to get on her for realsies!

I tried this a year ago with Andrew and it felt way off for both of us. This time I went back with Andrew (who boulders like a madman in that forest) and he went for it ground up, failed, then walked around and rigged the TR. We both gave it to burns each and got it down to one or two hangs. I think this will go for me this season and it will go for Andrew sooner.

I've been dialing the moves in after work quite a bit this week, also experimenting with solo TR setups for those partnerless days when I'm back in Oz. Burned off on lead today but I am witnessing progress. Shoe rubber seemed to be a limiting factor so I went and bought new kicks for my next attempt.

Couplea hangs with the new kicks. They did, indeed, make all the difference. I'm close.