Routes in The Bulletheads

1. 5.11a, 31m; Start up discontinuous features past a bolt to a short left facing corner and up overhanging flakes and underclings past a few bolts

2. 5.11a, 24m; Wide crack gets you to a short delicate dyke over to the thuggish roof crack, pull the roof and continue up some thought provoking slab

3. 5.9, 27m; Climb off the left side of the belay up some low angle thin cracks. Step right when possible to another thin crack then up a right trending hand crack.

4. 5.11b, 28m: Crux pitch. A bit of wide climbing past a nice chock stone and into the splitter finger crack.

5. 5.10a, 22m: Continue up the crack to the top.

A 160m multi-pitch.

1. Pitch 1: 5.10d: This pitch is a thinker. Several different ways of doing it are possible. Follow the left facing crack to a tricky layback move. From here you could probably go left, but I found that right, up, and then left worked for me. Once on the left-trending overlaps you can choose to stay on one or move up and and down between them as you work your way to the ramp left of the first bolt. Clipping the first bolt requires committing to tough slab feet (maybe not if you're 6'6"). From there keep going past the second bolt after which the grade eases to 5.9 and runs out a good 20 feet to the corner. Build a belay in the corner. Several 5.10+ cruxes. Watch for rope drag. 30m.

2. Pitch 2: 5.11a: Climb awkwardly right off the belay under an overlap to a good stance below a left facing flare. The back of the flare takes ok gear and good fist/hand jams, but is deep enough that it's very difficult to move off the jams. The left wall was wet so we pulled on the gear. Dry it's probably thuggish 10. A wide left facing crack leads up and turns into an undercling to an obvious belay alcove. 5.10, 20m.

3. Pitch 3: 5.10c: Step around the little roof above the belay alcove and head up into the chimney. Place gear as high as possible in the chimney (#3 Camalot), and then downclimb until you can get outside the chimney and make offwidth moves to get above the chimney. It helps to arrange your gear so it's not in the way. The rest of the pitch is probably 5.8 or 5.9, but quite long and finishes with a very pretty finger crack to a treed ledge. It might be possible to take the corner right of the finger crack, but it didn't look well traveled or anywhere near as nice. 5.10, 30m.

4. Pitch 4: 5.11a: This pitch is obvious from the belay ledge. It goes straight up the amazing face and finishes left of the obvious headwall. It is a FULL 70m and has no fixed gear. It will take tons of gear -- the key is not running out. Use nuts to preserve cams. The line is quite straight but it's so long you want to use runners to keep drag at an absolute minimum. Just when you think you have it made, there's one hard move to get established in the final corner, but it quickly eases off after that. Keep going right to the forest. There are several distinct cruxes and lots of continuous jamming between them. It would be possible to stop at less than 60m, just below the headwall if using a 60m rope or out of gear (but you would need some for the belay). 5.10+, 70m!

5. Pitch 5: 5.10b continue up the obvious line (best linked with P4 but can be done separately.

Alternative start to Liquid Gold trends left up the ramp instead of clipping the bolt then left and up to the finger crack (2 bolts) splitting the face. Finish as for LG.

P1 - 5.8/5.9. 40m. Continue trending up and left to a bolt belay.

P2 - 10b/c. Up the obvious crack, pull the roof, and then up a balancy finger crack. Sustained once you pull the roof all the way to the top. 35m

P3 - 10a/b? We took the middle crack, though there are also options left and right at the same grade. 40m to a bolted belay on the dirt ledge. Don't be confused by the rap anchor down and to the right. Short crux.

P4 - 10b. 30m. Best pitch on the route. Long, sustained fingers and hands in a groove. We TRd the 10b chimney/flare to the right which was fun on TR. You'd want bigger gear (some #4s) to lead it.

Layback the corner and then undercling horizontally right under the arching roof.

An awesome finger crack

A left-leaning offwidth situated about 40m right of Rainy Day Dram Away. The majority of the crack is #2 and bigger, and finishes at the midset of hooks.

The extension "A Pitch in Time Extension" goes at 10d and follows the thin crack past the anchors.

Please don't Toprope from these hooks, instead set up your own TR system, and only use the hooks for lowering.

This route shares the same start as "A Pitch in Time", but continues up the thin finger crack on the wall above the anchors.

Follow the chimney up to the tree. It starts a little narrow but ends wide enough for your whole body to be inside. Continue into a chasm. Multiple exits exist but you can climb left from the back corner up into the cave. Squeeze through and Exit left onto a traverse around to rap anchors.

Can be done in 1 or 2 pitches but the rope drag is horrible if doing as a single.

1 star climbing, 3 star adventure.

Up the thin seam, through the chimney then follow the diagonal crack. Possible to do as one pitch, but the rope drag is real.

P1: Start up a lightly vegetated dirt ramp till a corner breaks off left, follow this thin finger corner up to a set of bolted anchors.

P2 From these anchors follow the obvious left sloping crack up to the start of the quartz dyke. follow the dike with good gear to a small ledge and a second bolted station.

P3 Continue following the dyke for s few meters until it's possible to traverse right onto the slab past a bolt. Continue trending up and right until you can step down off an arete to a nice ledge and crack corner system. Either belay here with a gear anchor or continue up to the small roof above you passing it on the right side to another set of bolted anchors.

thin short crack. Getting a bit greasy in some of the holds. sling a big tree to the right for a anchor. Top-ropeable if you walk up to the right of the climb to the tree at the top.

Mostly a sport climb, but it is good to have a few cams.

2 pitches. crack climb.Bolted belays. Walk off to the left is fun in its own way. bring more 1-1.5"cams

This one may well get the 5.9+. Start up through overhang and up diagonal left flake crack. Burly but not where you might expect it!

A core intense workout! Squamish rack #2-#6 double #4 and #5

1. 25m (10a) 3 bolts

2. 25m (10b) 6 bolts

Assuming this is "Land and Freedom" in McLane (2005)

A sport climb, but a #2 cam is used to protect the bottom flake.

SR to BD#3, 2xBD#0.5-BD#2

Bolts, BD#0.75-BD#2

SR to BD#3, 2xBD#2

SR to BD#3

1 Bolt, SR

SR to BD#4, 2xBD#0.4-BD#3

The traverse to all the routes.