A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. The Apron 75 routes in Area

Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -123.145561, 49.685332

Access Issues: inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

1.1. South Gully 9 routes in Area

Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: -123.143888, 49.686349

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Where the River Bends 5.10d Unknown 50m
2 *** Rock On 5.10a Trad 150m
3 * Rock On Direct 5.10c Trad 45m
4 Bastille 5.9 Unknown 30m
5 ** The Great Arch 5.13a Unknown 24m
6 The South Gully 5.8 Unknown
7 * Bong King 5.11a Unknown 30m
8 *** The Opal 5.12d Trad
9 *** Mercy Street 5.10b Trad 60m

1.2. Squamish Buttress 12 routes in Area

Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: -123.144603, 49.683881

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Squamish Buttress 5.10c Trad 210m
2 * Cornered Rat 5.11b Unknown 18m
3 *** The Butt Light

FA: Sonnie Trotter, Lydia Zamorano and Ben Moon, 2010

5.9 Trad 100m 3
4 * Progress Can't Wait 5.12a Unknown 45m
5 *** Heatwave 5.12a Unknown 45m
6 * Gemini 5.12b Unknown 45m
7 *** Pan Tease 5.10c Unknown
8 ** Pan Tease Upper 5.11c Unknown
9 * Kashmir 5.11c Unknown 28m
10 ** The Ultimate Everything 5.9 Unknown 340m
11 *** Upper Echelon

FA: Ryan Kurytnik and Dave Brayden

5.10d Unknown 270m
12 The Squamish Buttress pitches 1-4

Done with an additional scramble to reach the start of Butt Light

5.8 Trad

1.3. North Apron 20 routes in Area

Unknown and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Calculus Crack Direct

Direct start for Calculus Crack so you don't have to start in the trees on the first two pitches of St. vitus Dance.

5.9 Trad 2
2 *** Calculus Crack 5.8 Trad 150m
3 ** Start From Scratch 5.10c Trad
4 * South Arete 5.8 Unknown 150m
5 *** St. Vitus' Dance 5.9 Trad 150m
6 * St Vitus' Dance Direct Start 5.10a Trad 22m
7 ** Vector 5.9 Unknown 150m
8 ** Baseline Direct 5.10c Unknown 80m
9 * Whirling Dervish 5.11d Unknown 73m 2
10 ** Whirlwind 5.10d Unknown
11 * Dessert Dyke 5.10a Unknown 30m
12 * Form 5.10d Unknown 35m
13 ** Karen's Math 5.10a Trad 20m
14 ** The Black Streaker 5.11a Unknown
15 ** That Dog Don't Hunt 5.11a Unknown
16 ** The Climbers Must Be Crazy (2pa) 5.10c Unknown
17 ** Evergreen State 5.11c Unknown 220m
18 ** Voodoo Armour 5.12a Unknown
19 ** No Saints Left 5.11b Unknown 80m
20 ** Diamond Back 5.10b Unknown

1.4. Above Broadway 10 routes in Area

Unknown, Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Memorial Crack 5.9 Trad 35m
2 Blasphemy 5.12b Unknown 30m
3 ** Broomstick crack 5.7 Trad
4 Granville Street 5.8 Unknown
5 Eric's route 5.10a Unknown
6 Bran Flakes 5.10a Unknown
7 *** A Question of Balance 5.9 Unknown
8 ** John 3:16 5.10c Unknown
9 ** Pig Dogs on Parade 5.8 Unknown
10 * Dances with Pigs 5.10a Sport

1.5. Lower Apron 4 routes in Area

Unknown and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mickey Mouse 5.10d Unknown 2
2 Mighty Mouse 5.11a Unknown 12m
3 The Bottom Line 5.9 Unknown 3
4 * Rambles / The Rambles

Start at the left side of the lower apron.

  1. (5.7 30m) Climb up a shallow groove, then past a bolt then up slab to an anchor.

  2. (5.7 30m) Foot traverse up and right along the crack, then up a bulge and a few face moves to an anchor.

  3. (5.7 20m) follow the bolts (6?) to the next anchor.

  4. (5.8 10m) follow the bolts up the head wall, then up to the anchor. Rappel; or continue past the anchor to trees if continuing up the Apron.

Can be linked into just two pitches.

5.8 Mixed 90m 4, 6

1.6. Central Apron 9 routes in Area

Unknown, Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The West Coast Trail 5.10c Unknown 25m
2 *** Snake 5.9 Trad 220m
3 ** Teetering On The Brink of Madness 5.11b Sport
4 * Unfinished Symphony 5.11b Trad 7
5 * Dirty Little White Boys 5.11c Unknown 8
6 * Dream On 5.12a Unknown 8
7 *** Dream Symphony 5.11b Unknown 7
8 *** Dancing In The Light 5.11c Unknown 7
9 ** Anxiety State 5.10d Unknown

1.7. South Apron 11 routes in Area

Unknown, Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Diedre 5.8 Trad 180m 6
2 The Passing Lane 5.10c Unknown
3 ** White Lightning 5.10c Unknown 140m
4 ** Sickle 5.9 Unknown
5 Over the Rainbow 5.9 Unknown 58m
6 * Sparrow 5.9 Unknown
7 ** One Scoop with Delicious Dimples / One Scoop and Delicious Dimples 5.10c Unknown 250m
8 A Trolls Sonnet

Optional trad gear at overlap. (0.3-0.5BD cams, medium wires)

5.10b Sport 2 10
9 ** Pineapple Peel

FA: Terry Rollerson, Frank Bauman, 1969

5.9 Trad 210m 5
10 * Banana Peel

A generally easy and un-sustained, but sometimes run-out climb across and up the Apron.

  1. (5.4, 20-30m) Climb easy but unprotected slab to a horizontal break, then traverse right until a pair of birch trees.

  2. (5.easy, 30m) Continue right along the horizontal break, slightly up then curving back down until a stand of trees.

  3. (5.5 R, 15m) Stem up a tree, then step onto a slab. Friction up the unprotected slab to more trees.

  4. (5.7, 30m) Climb unprotected slab above the trees towards trending leftwards, then step right to a bolt. Pull a couple 5.7 moves past the bolt, then more unprotected slab left to a corner. Surmount the corner and bulge above, then traverse up and left to trees.

  5. (5.4, 15m) Move left to an obvious flake then up into a groove. Make a gear belay.

  6. (5.7, 30m) Pull up onto the slab right of the belay and angle up and right on un-protected slab to into a corner, follow this for a bit, then left and up to trees.

  7. (5.4 50m) Climb up into a water runnel; follow this and obvious crakes until you find a stance with small gear behind a flake and belay.

  8. (5.4 50m) Continue up the flake above past a detached piece of slab, then up the easier slab to the trees.

5.7 Trad 220m
11 Slab Alley

The first route climbed on the apron. Run out with intriguing rock features known as "The Elephant Steps"

5.8 Trad 290m 6

1.8. Apron Boulders 0 routes in Area

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.7 ** Broomstick crack Trad 1.4. Above Broadway
* Banana Peel Trad 220m 1.7. South Apron
5.8 The South Gully Unknown 1.1. South Gully
The Squamish Buttress pitches 1-4 Trad 1.2. Squamish Buttress
*** Calculus Crack Trad 150m 1.3. North Apron
* South Arete Unknown 150m 1.3. North Apron
Granville Street Unknown 1.4. Above Broadway
** Pig Dogs on Parade Unknown 1.4. Above Broadway
* Rambles Mixed 90m 4, 6 1.5. Lower Apron
*** Diedre Trad 180m 6 1.7. South Apron
Slab Alley Trad 290m 6 1.7. South Apron
5.9 Bastille Unknown 30m 1.1. South Gully
*** The Butt Light Trad 100m 3 1.2. Squamish Buttress
** The Ultimate Everything Unknown 340m 1.2. Squamish Buttress
*** Calculus Crack Direct Trad 2 1.3. North Apron
*** St. Vitus' Dance Trad 150m 1.3. North Apron
** Vector Unknown 150m 1.3. North Apron
*** A Question of Balance Unknown 1.4. Above Broadway
** Memorial Crack Trad 35m 1.4. Above Broadway
The Bottom Line Unknown 3 1.5. Lower Apron
*** Snake Trad 220m 1.6. Central Apron
Over the Rainbow Unknown 58m 1.7. South Apron
** Pineapple Peel Trad 210m 5 1.7. South Apron
** Sickle Unknown 1.7. South Apron
* Sparrow Unknown 1.7. South Apron
5.10a *** Rock On Trad 150m 1.1. South Gully
* Dessert Dyke Unknown 30m 1.3. North Apron
** Karen's Math Trad 20m 1.3. North Apron
* St Vitus' Dance Direct Start Trad 22m 1.3. North Apron
Bran Flakes Unknown 1.4. Above Broadway
* Dances with Pigs Sport 1.4. Above Broadway
Eric's route Unknown 1.4. Above Broadway
5.10b *** Mercy Street Trad 60m 1.1. South Gully
** Diamond Back Unknown 1.3. North Apron
A Trolls Sonnet Sport 2 10 1.7. South Apron
5.10c * Rock On Direct Trad 45m 1.1. South Gully
*** Pan Tease Unknown 1.2. Squamish Buttress
*** The Squamish Buttress Trad 210m 1.2. Squamish Buttress
** Baseline Direct Unknown 80m 1.3. North Apron
** Start From Scratch Trad 1.3. North Apron
** The Climbers Must Be Crazy (2pa) Unknown 1.3. North Apron
** John 3:16 Unknown 1.4. Above Broadway
The West Coast Trail Unknown 25m 1.6. Central Apron
** One Scoop with Delicious Dimples Unknown 250m 1.7. South Apron
The Passing Lane Unknown 1.7. South Apron
** White Lightning Unknown 140m 1.7. South Apron
5.10d * Where the River Bends Unknown 50m 1.1. South Gully
*** Upper Echelon Unknown 270m 1.2. Squamish Buttress
* Form Unknown 35m 1.3. North Apron
** Whirlwind Unknown 1.3. North Apron
Mickey Mouse Unknown 2 1.5. Lower Apron
** Anxiety State Unknown 1.6. Central Apron
5.11a * Bong King Unknown 30m 1.1. South Gully
** That Dog Don't Hunt Unknown 1.3. North Apron
** The Black Streaker Unknown 1.3. North Apron
Mighty Mouse Unknown 12m 1.5. Lower Apron
5.11b * Cornered Rat Unknown 18m 1.2. Squamish Buttress
** No Saints Left Unknown 80m 1.3. North Apron
*** Dream Symphony Unknown 7 1.6. Central Apron
** Teetering On The Brink of Madness Sport 1.6. Central Apron
* Unfinished Symphony Trad 7 1.6. Central Apron
5.11c * Kashmir Unknown 28m 1.2. Squamish Buttress
** Pan Tease Upper Unknown 1.2. Squamish Buttress
** Evergreen State Unknown 220m 1.3. North Apron
*** Dancing In The Light Unknown 7 1.6. Central Apron
* Dirty Little White Boys Unknown 8 1.6. Central Apron
5.11d * Whirling Dervish Unknown 73m 2 1.3. North Apron
5.12a *** Heatwave Unknown 45m 1.2. Squamish Buttress
* Progress Can't Wait Unknown 45m 1.2. Squamish Buttress
** Voodoo Armour Unknown 1.3. North Apron
* Dream On Unknown 8 1.6. Central Apron
5.12b * Gemini Unknown 45m 1.2. Squamish Buttress
Blasphemy Unknown 30m 1.4. Above Broadway
5.12d *** The Opal Trad 1.1. South Gully
5.13a ** The Great Arch Unknown 24m 1.1. South Gully