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Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Approach

Slab Alley and Pineapple Peel are accessed by hiking southward along the Apron Connector trail. When it curves close to Highway 99, watch carefully for an "Apron Connector" sign and a left-hand branch that heads uphill through brush to boulders. (a second trail enters the brush about 50m beyond, eventually joining the first trail). Continue up through the boulders for a few minutes, and look for a left-hand branch that goes into the brush (very faint) Follow this for about 50 metres, then ascend a slab that goes under and past wooden power poles and a treed ramp to reach the start of the climbs.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.7
2 5.6
3 5.8
4 5.8
5 5.6
6 5.8
1 5.8
2 5.8
3 5.9
4 5.9
5 5.9
6 5.6

Starts to the right of Diedre, from same ledge to Horizontal crag and then follow the three bolts. All anchors are bolted except the third and 6th pitch which end big ledges with plenty of trees to choose from. You might want a couple of middle sized cams but 98% bolted, bolts are close enough to avoid big falls and just before all crux moves. Technically 6 pitches but last one its short and scrambly can be linked with a 60m to the ledge so most parties would do in 5.

FA: Kevin Mclane & Susie Beliveau, 2004

Optional trad gear at overlap. (0.3-0.5BD cams, medium wires)

1 5.9
2 5.8
3 5.8
4 5.9
5 5.5
6 5.7

Between Slab Alley and Banana Peel. A bit more route finding than Slab Alley and cruxes not as well protected.

  1. (5.9, 50m) First half pitch of pitch 1 of Slab Alley. Instead of right climb the tree and flake behind it, going up and left for a few moves on to easy terrain. Left to a treet then up to a bolt belay at the end Slab Alley Pitch 2.

  2. (5.8, 20m)Traverse left along a crack until below a groove about 20mtrs above. Half way between Slab Alley and Banana Peel

  3. (5.8, 50m) Follow cleaned rock up two bolts into a treed groove.

  4. (5.9, 30m) Follow groove past trees to a large tree ledge

  5. (5.7, 60m)Move up and right from the ledge to a bolt then zigzag up into a corner with a cedar, continue this corner to the end then right to join Slab Alley in the 4th pitch or left for the 6th of Banana Peel

FA: Terry Rollerson & Frank Bauman, 1969

A generally easy and un-sustained, but sometimes run-out climb across and up the Apron.

  1. (5.4, 20-30m) Climb easy but unprotected slab to a horizontal break, then traverse right until a pair of birch trees.

  2. (5.easy, 30m) Continue right along the horizontal break, slightly up then curving back down until a stand of trees.

  3. (5.5 R, 15m) Stem up a tree, then step onto a slab. Friction up the unprotected slab to more trees.

  4. (5.7, 30m) Climb unprotected slab above the trees towards trending leftwards, then step right to a bolt. Pull a couple 5.7 moves past the bolt, then more unprotected slab left to a corner. Surmount the corner and bulge above, then traverse up and left to trees.

  5. (5.4, 15m) Move left to an obvious flake then up into a groove. Make a gear belay.

  6. (5.7, 30m) Pull up onto the slab right of the belay and angle up and right on un-protected slab to into a corner, follow this for a bit, then left and up to trees.

  7. (5.4 50m) Climb up into a water runnel; follow this and obvious crakes until you find a stance with small gear behind a flake and belay.

  8. (5.4 50m) Continue up the flake above past a detached piece of slab, then up the easier slab to the trees.

The first route climbed on the apron. Run out with intriguing rock features known as "The Elephant Steps"

Activity

Check out what is happening in South Apron.