Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.


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Grade Route

Direct start for Calculus Crack so you don't have to start in the trees on the first two pitches of St. vitus Dance.

P1: Start up passing a bolt and head toward an obvious left facing crack. Pull into the crack (crux) and continue up insecure moves to you can step right and up a flake. Gear Belay above the flake.

P2: Long pitch starting up multiple flakes and continuing on easy ground to some flaring crack moves near the top. Bolted belay.

1 5.7
2 5.8
3 5.6
4 5.8
5 5.7
6 5.0

First two pitches can be done through the trees if starting on the right hand side or do Calculus Direct and start in Pitch 3 of Calculus Crack route;

  1. Start as for St Vitus' Dance to tree belay in ledge

  2. Keep going up through the trees with a hard move right of the ledge 3)Step left into two bolt anchor so you get belayed with no rope drag, and follow the double crag until gets steep, step left and build gear belay small ledge at the start of finger crack, long pitch 50m

  3. Climb the finger crack with solid finger locks and solid gear, a few more meters of easier climbing and build belay at start of next steep ramp

  4. Continue up the crag and keep going up until the angle eases into an easy slab and angle right to a two bolt belay 6)Keep going up through easy terrain to the ledge, we did it unroped or possible to combine with previous pitch just continue going up until you reach the trees and memorial ledge

1 5.11d 45m
2 5.11c 28m

FA: Kris Wild, 2014

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