Sully's Hangout All sport climbing

27 routes in crag

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Summary

Super close to the City and you get a bit of a workout getting there

Description

A series of sport routes tucked into the Woods. Shady location so great on a hot day but stays wet longer

Access issues

ACCESS ALERT! Authorities representing the LSCR have decided not to permit rock climbing in the area. Nor will they be responsible for, or manage, the Sully’s Hangout climbing area which lies within its borders. However, at this time LSCR personnel will not specifically prevent persons from climbing within the LSCR. Any person who chooses to rock climb within the LSCR does so absolutely at their own risk. Keeping the Sully’s Hangout climbing area open to climbers will require that climbers obey LSCR rules at all times while present in the LSCR and that they respect without question the wishes of LSCR personnel and/or any signs posted regarding climbing in the LSCR or at the climbing area. If approached by park rangers, be friendly and polite. Stay on the trail and within the platform areas at the base of the crag. Always use “leave-no-trace” wilderness ethics. Leash your dog (or better yet leave it at home), pack out your trash, and keep the climbing area clean and tidy. This is all very important—we need to keep our impact to a minimum. Also, the area is still being developed. If there is a red tape on the first bolt, the route is a project and is off limits. Please don’t interfere with fixed ropes and gear. IMPORTANT! Note that the main gates at both major access points are CLOSED and LOCKED in the evening at clearly posted times. You MUST be out before the gates are locked or you will be shut in. Any attempt to tamper with or defeat the gates will result in a POLICE CALL. Either get out of the gated area before closing, or use an alternate, non-gated access point. Do not, for any reason whatsoever, attempt to circumvent the gate closure—you could get the crag permanently closed to climbing!

Approach

Estimated Driving Time from Vancouver: 40 minutes

Lynn Loop is located in Lynn Headwaters Regional Park in North Vancouver. To reach the start of the trail, take Highway #1 to the Lynn Valley Exit and follow Lynn Valley Road northbound. Continue past the shopping center and past the turnoff to Lynn Canyon Park. Where the road turns left, continue going straight along the narrow road to the last parking lot. If there is no parking here, backtrack about 500m to the overflow lot and walk back to the main parking lot.

From there you are going to hike in and to the right and then your first left. You will hike uphill for about 15 min (?) if you get to the sign or the turn off fto the lower loop you have gone to far! There is a lare rock cairn on the right on the trail that you take off the mail loop trail. Once you start on this it is about another 10 min hike.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.7 Unnamed1 Sport 13m

Low angle slab on the far left

2
5.9 Unnamed 2 Sport 13m, 5

Fun, featured slab, probably a bit easy for 5.9

3
5.9 Unnamed 3 Sport 15m, 5
4
5.10a Lefty Sport 15m, 5

Featured slabby start, steepening towards the anchors

5
5.7 A Bunch of BS Sport 15m, 5

The easiest line here, but still fun

6
5.9 The Rookie Sport 15m, 6

The mossy line on the mossy wall

7
5.9 * Little LuLu Sport 20m, 10

Great climbing right next to 3M. There is some moss on the wall, but everything you need to climb it is clean.

8
5.10a ** 3M Sport 20m

5.8 to the chains at halfway, with a few 10a moves immediately after. Good warmup climb.

9
5.11a ** Lubo Sport 15m, 6

Great fun. Starts next to 3M, moving right towards a corner, then follows the bolts up some nice, long face moves and a steep slab finish.

10
5.11c Constant Gardener Sport 6

The next climb right of Lubo. Climb towards the same corner as for Lubo, continuing up the arete and to the anchors.

11
Transmission Sport Project

Project

12

Project

13
5.11a * Speed Dial #8 Sport 5

Scramble up the mossy pedestal, then up on pinches and jugs. Cruxy finish.

14
5.10d Shake your lettuce Sport
15
5.12a ** Serene Sport 10

Longest route at the cliff. 11c if you move left for a rest near the top, or 12a direct.

16
5.11c ** Special K Sport 7

Climb the crack to the 4th bolt, then technical climbing to a cruxy finish.

17

Starts 1 metre right of Special K to join Hindu Two Routes at the 3rd bolt.

18
5.10d Hindu Two Routes Sport 6

Pumpy. Start 2m right of Special K.

19
5.11a ** My One Muscle Sport 7

Up broken rock to the crack, past an overlap and into the large crack after the 3rd bolt

20
5.11c Get Bent! Sport 7

Hard start with cruxes near the roof, and another near the top

21
5.11b *** Wingman Sport 7

Up the arete. The first climb reached on the approach.

22
5.12a Back Door Party Sport 7

To the right of the Wingman arete, to the same anchors.

23
5.10a Moss pit Sport
24
5.10b Dynamic Duo Sport 7

The bolted crack about 12m right of Wingman

25
5.10d French Connection Sport 22m, 8

Starts up Dynamic Duo, moving right onto Trekking to India at the 3rd or 5th bolt. Much better value if done at the 3rd.

26
5.11b * Trekking to India Sport 24m, 9

Up the steep face just right of the Dymanic Duo arete and crack. Eases off after gaining the slab, with a tricky move to the bolts.

27
5.12c In the Bubble Sport 6

The steep, crimpy face right of Trekking to India.

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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