A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
David Gibbs Bryan Senger Andy Gnarr Russ MacKenzie James Hardy Daphne thara Jarrah Kai Josh Ryan
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Cheakamus Canyon / The Gorge
431 in Crag
- 1.1. Leonard Cohen Crag 0 in Crag
-
1.2.
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area / Chek 292 in Crag
- 1.2.1. The Hideout 22 in Crag
- 1.2.2. North Star Wall 2 in Unknown
- 1.2.3. The Crest 14 in Cliff
- 1.2.4. Fat Camp 5 in Cliff
- 1.2.5. Whiskey Jack Wall 10 in Cliff
- 1.2.6. Asylum 4 in Cliff
- 1.2.7. Tower Of Power 5 in Cliff
-
1.2.8.
Forgotten Wall 34 in Cliff
- 1.2.8.1. Forgotten Wall Left 18 in Sector
- 1.2.8.2. Forgotten Wall Right 16 in Sector
- 1.2.9. Conroy's Castle 19 in Cliff
- 1.2.10. Foundation Wall 9 in Cliff
- 1.2.11. Shoot to Kill 3 in Cliff
- 1.2.12. Pony Cave 2 in Unknown
- 1.2.13. Toxic Lichen Wall 9 in Cliff
- 1.2.14. The Circus 21 in Cliff
- 1.2.15. The Big Show 9 in Cliff
- 1.2.16. Echo Beach 18 in Cliff
- 1.2.17. The Main Event 7 in Cliff
- 1.2.18. Well of Souls 9 in Cliff
- 1.2.19. Rock of Ages 18 in Crag
-
1.2.20.
Electric Avenue 44 in Crag
- 1.2.20.1. The Substation 6 in Crag
- 1.2.20.2. Electric Avenue 36 in Unknown
- 1.2.20.3. Mt. Chek 2 in Unknown
- 1.2.21. The Monastery 28 in Cliff
- 1.2.22. The Gorge 0 in Area
-
1.3.
Rehabilitation Projects 15 in Crag
- 1.3.1. The Speedway 2 in Cliff
- 1.3.2. Stump Wall 4 in Cliff
- 1.3.3. This Is Your Brain 3 in Cliff
- 1.3.4. Ripple Tower 6 in Cliff
- 1.4. The outpost 4 in Area
-
1.5.
Rogues Gallery 49 in Crag
- 1.5.1. Road Warrior 3 in Cliff
- 1.5.2. Hoods in the Woods 13 in Cliff
- 1.5.3. Grand Larceny 5 in Cliff
- 1.5.4. Capone Wall 5 in Cliff
- 1.5.5. Tyjax Wall / The Big House 5 in Cliff
- 1.5.6. Tommy Gun Wall 5 in Cliff
- 1.5.7. Urban Crime 3 in Cliff
- 1.5.8. The Keep 1 in Cliff
- 1.5.9. Halfway House 3 in Cliff
- 1.5.10. The Slammer 3 in Cliff
- 1.5.11. Great Escape Wall 3 in Cliff
- 1.6. Sport Temple 11 in Crag
- 1.7. Pleasure Dome 7 in Crag
- 1.8. The Gym 14 in Crag
-
1.9.
The Gorge 29 in Cliff
- 1.9.1. Galaxy Buttress 5 in Crag
- 1.9.2. The Leaning Tower of Pizza Wall / Gotham City 15 in Cliff
- 1.9.3. The Courthouse 5 in Cliff
- 1.9.4. The Suburb 3 in Cliff
- 1.9.5. Trestle Tower 1 in Crag
- 1.10. Echo Beach 10 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Cheakamus Canyon 431 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.914579, -123.161201
summary
The number one sport climbing area around Squamish. Routes in all grades, well bolted and with short access.
approach
Drive north on highway 99 from Vancouver. Just before kilometer 140 take a right up to the Check Canyon Recreation Area campsite to reach the main areas. There are additional crags further north, park at pull outs next to highway 99 to reach them.
where to stay
Free camping at the campsite.
1.1. Leonard Cohen Crag 0 routes in Crag
1.2. Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area 292 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.907439, -123.156192
summary
This is the main area in Cheakamus Canyon with the highest density of climbing.
approach
Drive north on highway 99 from Vancouver. Just before kilometer 140 take a right up to the Check Canyon Recreation Area campsite to reach the main areas.
1.2.1. The Hideout 22 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.913273, -123.162149
- DO NOT BLOCK OR PARK NEAR SALT SHED
- RESPECT ALL CLOSED PROJECTs
description
approach
Follow a little dirt road up behind salt shed to park, it may be a contentious issue with some hwy guys, otherwise park at hwy and walk back. Continue to walk dirt road past overgrown yellow gate follow through slightly overgrown trail until it turns right onto another trail that will head back into the direction you just came,before little creek turn left,trail heads up hill.
5min from car
ethic
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Queynte
FA: Tess Egand & Jay R, 2020 | 5.11a | ||||
2 |
★ Thin Skin
FA: Jay R & Tess, 2020 | 5.11a/b | ||||
3 |
★★ Cigaro
FA: Tess & Jay, 2020 | 5.11b | ||||
4 |
Tick Attack
FA: Jay & Tess, 2020 | 5.11a/b | ||||
5 |
★ Curmudgeon
FA: Tess & Krissy, 2020 | 5.10c | ||||
6 |
Over The Top
FA: Tess & Krissy, 2020 | 5.10b | ||||
7 |
★★ Peyronies Path
FA: Krissy & Tess, 2020 | 5.9 | ||||
8 |
★ Talking Bush
FA: Krissy & Tess | 5.10d | ||||
9 |
Endometrium
FA: Tess & Jay R, 2020 | 5.11 | ||||
10 |
Fast Eddie
FA: Tess & Jay R, 2020 | 5.10+ | ||||
11 |
Opinions of Minions
Set: Jay Robinson, 2020 FA: Eric Hughes, 2020 | 5.13 | ||||
12 |
Tyrones Project
Set: Tyrone, 2020 | |||||
13 |
Dream with The fishes
FA: Tess & Jay Robinson, 2020 | 5.11+ | ||||
14 |
★★ Vespidae Staredown
FA: Tess, Jay & Jay Robinson, 2020 | 5.10+ | ||||
15 |
Project
Uncleaned with ropes hanging | |||||
16 |
★★ Son of the Morning
FA: Tess & Jay Robinson, 2020 | 5.11d | ||||
17 |
Trust Fund Dirtbag
Set: Jay Robinson FA: Nic Beaulieu, 2020 | |||||
18 |
Tyrones 2nd Project
FA: Tyrone Brett | |||||
19 | Tobys Project | |||||
20 | Tyrones 3rd Project | |||||
21 | Tyrones 4th Project | |||||
22 |
★★★ The Horticulturist
Amazing technical climbing down low leads to a rest with good holds and big moves to finish. FA: Toby Foord-Kelcy, 2021 | 5.12c | 20m |
1.2.2. North Star Wall 2 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.911475, -123.160832
description
A knoll close to the lower Chek campground.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Ursa Minor
15 minutes from the lower Chek campground. Follow the flagging tape trail then cross a mossy talus field, following cairns.
Follow flagging to walk off along the ridge. In 15 minutes, you arrive back at the campsite. | 5.8 | 120m, 6 | |||
2 |
★ Jay MacArthur's Kaiju Bear
New multipitch to the right of Ursa Minor. Bring 14+ draws. P1-5.8 P2-5.6 P3-5.7 P4-5.0 FA: Jay MacArthur, Adam Spilchen & Eric Tran, May 2022 | 5.8 | 4 |
1.2.3. The Crest 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.912536, -123.156961
description
Mostly single-pitch sport climbing, with one two-pitch climb. The first climbs start off a ledge, reachable from the left, or by climbing pitch 1 of "Master of My Domain".
approach
Continue up the road from the parking lot and when it flattens out look for a short trail off the left side of the road towards a visible cliff.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Except for pitch1 of "Master of My Domain", the first few climbs start from a ledge about 10m up the cliff -- approach either by P1 of MoMD or from the left. | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Festivus
FA: Marc Fournier | 5.9 | 30m | |||||
3 |
★★ Master Of My Domain
Starts directly in front of the approach trail. P1. 5.7 15m 6 bolts. Climb the cracks and bulges to the ledge. P2. 5.9 26m, 11 bolts. Pull the initial bulge from the anchor (crux) then up easier ground above to the top. Top-out for a nice flat peak with gorgeous views. | 5.9 | 40m, 2, 11 | |||||
4 |
★ Marc's Link
Start on MOMD and traverse right into Serenity Now. FA: Marc Fournier | 5.8 | 25m | |||||
5 | ★★ Weak In July | 5.10b | 18m | |||||
6 |
★★ Serenity Now
Bolted as two very short pitches: P1. 5.10c 4 bolts, 8m. P2. 5.8 4 bolts 8m. Can easily be linked. | 5.10c | 16m, 8 | |||||
The following climbs are on the lower cliff section, to the right of the approach trail. | ||||||||
8 |
★ Step Off!
Climb rounded bulges. | 5.9 | 15m, 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 | ★ Skank | 5.11b | 15m | |||||
10 | ★★ Currently Coagulating | 5.11a | 15m | |||||
11 | ★★★ Hindsight | 5.11c | ||||||
12 |
★★ Who's the Bosch
Start on 'Hindsight' and just below a small overhang, traverse into 'La Femme Makita' | {AU} YDS:5.11b | 25m | |||||
13 | La Femme Makita | 5.12c | 25m | |||||
14 |
Made Fresh Daily
FA: Pete Nuij | 5.12c | 19m | |||||
15 | ★★ Return to Sender | 5.11d | 15m | |||||
16 |
★★ Giddy-up
Tough bouldery start to more moderate climbing above. | 5.10c | 15m, 7 |
1.2.4. Fat Camp 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.912346, -123.156048
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The Fat And The Furious
FA: Pete Nuij, 2004 | 5.11b | 10m, 4 | |||||
2 |
"Tons" Of Fun
FA: Alyssa Nuij, 2004 | 5.11b | 10m, 5 | |||||
3 |
Buffet The Self Esteem Slayer
FA: Pete Nuij, 2004 | 5.11a | 10m, 4 | |||||
4 |
Dominating Fat Wife
FA: Martin Soon, 2004 | 5.12c | 10m, 5 | |||||
5 |
Hot Dog In A Hallway
FA: Gary Foster, 2004 | 5.12a | 10m, 5 |
1.2.5. Whiskey Jack Wall 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.912087, -123.154404
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Missing Pointer!
FA: Gary Foster, 2005 | 5.11b | 15m, 6 | |||||
2 |
Dyno-might
Jump to the first hold! FA: Gary Foster, 2005 | 5.11b | 15m, 5 | |||||
3 |
★ Dichotomy
FA: Pete Lundgren, 2005 | 5.12b | 15m, 7 | |||||
4 |
★ Plumbers Crack
Start with a layback climb into a really nice crack. FA: Marc Fournier, 2005 | 5.10c | 20m, 9 | |||||
5 |
Attitude Is Everything
Follow the flake up the slab onto a bunch of ledges, then head left out of the gully. FA: Marc Fournier, 2005 | 5.8 | 20m, 7 | |||||
6 |
★ Danielle's Throne
Climb up a slab into a slight overhang. Climb up onto the ledge and finish with a solid climb. FA: Vic Fisher, 2005 | 5.10a | 20m, 7 | |||||
7 |
★★ Brock -N-Roll
Slabby start turns into tricky climb over ledges and finishes with crimps. FA: Vic Fisher, 2005 | 5.10b | 20m, 7 | |||||
8 |
★★ Angel On My Shoulder
Directly right of the moss covered section. A fun climb using flakes and cracks all the way to the finish. FA: Marc Fournier, 2005 | 5.10a | 20m, 8 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★★★ Road Less Travelled
FA: Marc Fournier, 2005 | 5.10d | 20m, 8 | |||||
10 |
Good-bye, Farewell and Amen
Easy climb to an inset area. Tough boulder over the overhang into a slabby finish. FA: Marc Fournier, 2005 | 5.10c | 20m, 10 |
1.2.6. Asylum 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Co-dependents Anonymous | 5.11a | 20m | |||
2 | ★ Psychosomatic | 5.9 | 20m | |||
3 | ★ Tourette Syndrome | 5.11b | 20m | |||
4 | ★ Dart Therapy | 5.9 | 20m |
1.2.7. Tower Of Power 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | This Route Sucks | 5.11b | 12m | |||
2 | ★★★ Biceptual Lover | 5.12b | 23m | |||
3 | ★ Snapping Tortoise | 5.11c | 18m | |||
4 |
★ Tiny Turtle
FA: Pete Nuij, 2005 | 5.11b | 15m, 6 | |||
5 |
★★★ Baby's got a temper
Climb the triple roof | 5.13a |
1.2.8. Forgotten Wall 34 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.910489, -123.156276
description
It offers vertical and slightly overhanging climbing and is in the shade by the trees for most of the day.
approach
This great wall is just left from the parking with 30 seconds access.
|
1.2.8.1. Forgotten Wall Left 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 49.910256, -123.156358
description
A solid sport climbing wall just seconds from the parking lot.
approach
The obvious wall on the left when entering the upper parking lot.
descent notes
Climbs have lower-offs or rappel anchors
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Clear Cut
Head right down the hill from "Charlotte's Web". Climb is left of the appraoch path from the car park. Smooth face climb with a couple of tricky scrambles over some large ledges. FA: Cain Campbell & Kevin Irish, 1994 | 5.10a | 15m, 6 | |||||
The climbs from "Bullet the Blue Car" to "Shaggy" climb a seperate buttress a short distance left of the main wall. There are two newer long climbs on the wall left of "Bullet". | ||||||||
3 |
★★ Incontinence hotline, please hold...
LH route off the ledge/ramp left of Bullet, where the approach path meets the wall. Balancy wall climbing on excellent rock. FA: Nigel Slater, Jul 2023 | 5.10a | 12 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 |
★ The Perfect Flush
RH route off the ledge/ramp left of Bullet, where the approach path meets the wall. Climbs direct through the crack in the overlap at mid-height FA: Nigel Slater, Jul 2023 | 5.10b | 8 | |||||
5 |
★★ Bullet the Blue Car
FA: Paul & Cindy Street, 1998 | 5.10d | 15m, 6 | |||||
6 | Redneck Shootout | 5.13a | 13m, 8 | |||||
7 | ★★★ Pissed Off | 5.13c | 15m, 7 | |||||
8 |
★★ Shaggy
Climb the not-so-steep face right of "Pissed Off" at the top of the gravel slope. | 5.9 | 15m, 6 | |||||
9 | Rock Lobster | 5.12a | 22m | |||||
10 | Strange Days | 5.13c | 22m, 11 | |||||
11 |
Two Bit Cop Out
Start up "Strange Days" but traverse right (bolt to protect) to Funkytown at the 5th bolt. | 5.12b | 22m, 11 | |||||
12 | ★★★ Funkytown | 5.12c | 22m | |||||
13 | ★★★ The Incredible Journey | 5.12a | 26m | |||||
14 | ? | {AU} YDS:5.12c | 26m | |||||
15 | ★★ From Beneath You It Devours | 5.12a | 24m | |||||
16 | ★★ Passchendaele | 5.12b | 10m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
17 | ★★ Mike's Link Two | 5.12a | 25m | |||||
18 | ★ Sate Le Hate | 5.13- | 25m | |||||
19 | ★★ Just Can't Do It | 5.13a | 25m |
1.2.8.2. Forgotten Wall Right 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 49.910754, -123.156182
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ The Reach Around
FA: Gary Foster, 2003 | 5.12b | 22m, 8 | |||||
2 |
★★ Got Pull?
FA: Gary Foster, 2003 | 5.12a | 22m, 7 | |||||
3 |
★★ Creepy Crawlers
Set: Gary Foster, 2003 | 5.11a | 22m, 8 | |||||
4 |
★ Creeping Right
FA: Gary Foster, 2003 | 5.10d | 22m, 9 | |||||
5 |
★★ Maximum Extreme Climb
FA: Mike Laurin, 2003 | 5.11c | 22m, 7 | |||||
6 | ★ Impact Extension | |||||||
7 |
★★ Low Impact - Short
flake to intriguing face climbing FA: Pete Winter, 2004 | 5.10a | 15m, 6 | |||||
8 |
★★ Sudden Impact - Long
FA: Peter Winter, 2003 Set: Pete Winter, 2004 | 5.12c | 20m, 9 | |||||
9 |
★★ Filth Infatuated
FA: Martin Soon, 2003 | 5.11c | 20m, 6 | |||||
10 |
★★ Trunk Monkey
FA: Pete Nuij, 2003 | 5.12a | 22m, 7 | |||||
11 |
★ The Voodoo That You Do
FA: Martin Soon, 2003 | 5.10c | 18m, 6 | |||||
12 |
★ Junk Yard Patio
FA: Gary Foster, 2003 | 5.11a | 18m, 5 | |||||
13 |
★★ The Boiler Room
FA: Marc Bourdon, 2003 | 5.12c | 18m, 6 | |||||
14 |
★★★ Rug Munchers
Perma-draws. Very nice athletic moves. FA: Dan Lillies, 2003 | 5.11d | 15m, 7 | |||||
15 |
Forgotten Realm
FA: Marc Fournier, 2003 | 5.10a | 18m, 6 | |||||
16 |
★ Spider Bite
FA: Marc Fournier, 2003 | 5.11b | 15m, 5 |
1.2.9. Conroy's Castle 19 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.909726, -123.157106
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ A Child's Christmas in Wales
Very easy climb with lots of boulders to climb on.. This climb starts where the trail does a sharp 180 going back up towards "Small is Beautiful" | 5.4 | 26m, 8 | |||||
2 | ★★ The Flying Classroom | 5.7 | 19m, 5 | |||||
3 | ★ Small is Beautiful | 5.9 | 20m | |||||
4 |
★ Asian Princess Wants Dead Bird
Start up the the horizontal ledges and scoops and up the slab. Gets steeper near the top. The climb is well bolted but the belayer should keep the rope tight on the last few bolts as there is a bit of a ledge. FA: Eric Tran & Jess C, 2021 | 5.8 | 23m, 10 | |||||
5 |
★★ Asian Princess Needs Dead Bird
FA: Eric Tran & Jess C, 2021 | 5.7 | 23m | |||||
6 |
★★ The Great Yellow Hope
FA: Eric Tran, Kushwant Bussawah & Steven Chua, 2021 | 5.9 | 20m, 10 | |||||
7 |
★ 1-900-LUV-KUSH
Extremely well bolted easy lead. Ends on the ledge 3/4 up the wall. Between Great Yellow Hope and Brown and Veiny at the upper Conroy's Castle ledge. FA: Kendra Mazur, Kushwant Bussawah, Steve Chua, Cat Chow & Eric Tran, Jul 2022 | 5.5 | 8 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
Brown and Veiny
FA: Eric Tran, Kushwant Bussawah, Steven Chua & Kendra Mazur, 2021 | 5.8 | 6m, 11 | |||||
9 |
★★ I Love You 3000
FA: Kushwant Bussawah, 2020 | 5.10a | 24m, 7 | |||||
10 |
★ Kingfishers Catch Fire
Starts with an easy slab using two ledges then turns into jugs near the ends. | 5.8 | 20m, 9 | |||||
11 |
★ Bangers and Mash
Same start as Instant Classic. Goes straight up. | 5.10a | 19m, 5 | |||||
12 |
★★ Instant Classic
Traverses right after first bolt. | 5.10a | 27m, 6 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 |
★★ Emil and the Detectives
The approach trail branches when it reaches the cliff, this is the first climb to the left of the approach trail. P1. 5.8, 25m, 6 bolts. P2. 5.7, 16m, 4 bolts | 5.8 | 41m, 2, 6 | |||||
14 |
★ Emil and the Detectives - P1
Better to use "Log pitch fields" on the main climb than create seperate climbs for each pitch. | 5.9 | 26m | |||||
15 |
Emil and the Detectives - P2
Better to use "Log pitch fields" on the main climb than create seperate climbs for each pitch. | 5.8 | 15m | |||||
16 |
★★ Asian's Gumby Superhighway
WARNING: This is a newly developed climb. There may still be some grit and loose rock. Wear a helmet and do not loiter around the base. Shares the same first move as Emil and the Detectives. Follow the right bolt line. Do it in 2 pitches, if done in one pitch bring slings to reduce drag. 2 raps with a 60m rope gets you down. FA: Eric Tran, Kushwant Bussawah & Steven Chua, Mar 2021 | 5.6 | 45m, 2, 16 | |||||
17 |
★★ Charlotte's Web
Great lil 2 pitches to grab a nice view. first pitch is a great 5.9 | 5.9 | 40m, 2, 14 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
18 |
★ Charlotte's Web P1
To log just P1, go to the main climb description and click no "log pitch fields", then delete the other pitch(es). | 5.9 | 25m | |||||
19 |
★★ Charlotte's Web P2
Better to use "Log pitch fields" on the main climb than create seperate climbs for each pitch. | 5.7 | 25m |
1.2.10. Foundation Wall 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.909394, -123.155923
description
A short wall with a few good moderate routes within a couple minutes walk of the parking lot.
approach
Take the trail out of the lower-right corner of the (triangular) parking area past the sign-post and washrooms. After about a minute walking, look for the cliff about a 100m off the trail to the right.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Awake in a Ditch with a Horse Licking Your Face
Left most climb on the wall -- climb a slab to an obvious (though easy) overhang. Watch for a couple loose holds at the top. FA: Martina Slezkova, Dale Moore & Peter Winter, 2007 | 5.8 | 10m, 4 | |||||
2 |
★ Flaming Arete
Climbing the obvious left-facing corner near the left end of the crag; reaching right, sometimes far right, for the a couple of the clips. | 5.7 | 10m | |||||
3 |
★ Polychronopolous
The next bolt line right from "Flaming Arete" - climb the face past interesting dikes. FA: Derek McGuire, Kelsey Wagner & Lisa Simms, 1996 | 5.10d | 12m, 6 | |||||
4 | ★ Real TV | 5.10a | 15m | |||||
5 |
★★ Mystery TV
Prepare for a tricky start on the face route right of the corner. Stay right of centre at the final bulge FA: Rolf Rybak & Lilly Leung, 2011 | 5.11a | 15m, 6 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Mystery
Climb up along a broken left-facing corner feature. | 5.9 | 15m, 6 | |||||
7 |
★ In Your Face
Yet another left-facing corner feature -- this one has a distinct roof about 2/3 of the way up. | 5.9 | 10m | |||||
8 |
(name unknown 1)
Next bolt-line right of "In Your Face". Probably about 5.9. | 5.9 | 9m | |||||
9 |
(name unknown 2)
2nd bolt line right of "In Your Face". Red-tagged as a project as of August 27, 2015. Would not recommend climbing this route, couldn't find any bolts past the first bolt as of Sep 2022 and it's covered in moss. |
1.2.11. Shoot to Kill 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Campfire Vamp
FA: Adrian Wilson, 1995 | 5.10c | 22m | |||
2 |
Weapons Of Moss Destruction
FA: Pete Lindgren | 5.11c | 25m | |||
3 |
★ Boot to the Head
Sport/trad FA: Adrian Wilson, 1996 | 5.11c | 22m |
1.2.12. Pony Cave 2 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
My Little Pony
Hard but good jams | 5.12d | 30m | |||
2 |
Twilight Sparkle
FFA: Matt Hoschke, 4 Jul 2019 | 5.13c | 15m |
1.2.13. Toxic Lichen Wall 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.906062, -123.156035
description
First crag of the approach. The yellow lichen gives it the name and a wooden sign is also visibly marking the crag Dry in light rain, too much rain and it may soak through
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Olympic Bid | 5.11d | 10m, 6 | |||||
2 | ★★ Mr. Negative | 5.12d | 12m, 7 | |||||
3 |
★★ Mrs. Negative
fun bouldery style climbing | 5.12a | 10m, 5 | |||||
4 | ★★★ Joe Dirt | 5.12d | 20m, 7 | |||||
5 |
★★ Mutation
Start up the ramp before moving onto a gently overhanging face. Very tricky, technical moves lead to some fun jugs in the middle and a crimpy crux that guards the top. FA: Marc Bourdon, 1992 | 5.11c | 18m, 7 | |||||
6 |
★★ III Communication
Climb easy to a horizontal break with powerful bouldery moves followed by a delicate finish FA: Marc Bourdon, 1994 | 5.13b | 15m, 7 | |||||
7 | unknown | 5.12d | 15m, 6 | |||||
8 |
★★ Sacrilege
A three pitch climb that starts up the blocky crack on the far left. You can rappel from the first pitch. Pitch 1: 5.8, 11 bolts Pitch 2: 5.9, 7 bolts Pitch 3: 10a, 14 bolts (40m) | 5.10a | 78m, 3, 32 | |||||
9 |
★★ Full house
Right of the mutation | 5.12c |
1.2.14. The Circus 21 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.905571, -123.156245
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ The Down System | 5.14a | 8m, 6 | |||||
2 | Killing Something Beautiful | 5.14a | 28m, 14 | |||||
3 |
★★ The Fleeing Heifer / The Fleeing Heffer
Fixed draws | 5.12c | 15m, 7 | |||||
4 | Heifer Down | 5.12d | 10m, 6 | |||||
5 | ★ Practical Horseman | 5.13a | 30m, 12 | |||||
6 | ★ White Trash | 5.12d | 28m, 12 | |||||
7 | ★ The Fleeing Bovine | 5.12d | 30m, 12 | |||||
8 | ★ Mike's Link | 5.13a | ||||||
9 | ★★★ Cut to the Chase | 5.12c | 15m, 7 | |||||
10 |
★★ Face the Music
Fixed draws | 5.12a | 18m, 5 | |||||
11 |
★★ Neutered Bovine
Fixed draws | 5.11c | 15m, 5 | |||||
12 | ★★ Wayward Bovine | 5.12a | 27m, 13 | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 |
★★ Bottom Feeder
FA: Marc Bourdon, 1995 | 5.12d | 26m, 11 | |||||
14 | ★ The Original Fish Hotline | 5.12b | 25m, 10 | |||||
15 |
★ Boy Pie
Starts in the chimney and up the flake to chains halfway up the wall FA: Marc Bourdon | 5.8 | 12m, 6 | |||||
16 | ★ Thin Ice | 5.12a | 27m, 7 | |||||
17 |
★★ Pig Farm
A tricky start beside Boy Pie leads to a high crux slapping along an arete feature. Stay out of the chimney FA: Marc Bourdon, 2002 | 5.10a | 10m, 5 | |||||
18 | ★ In The Black | 5.11a | 12m, 5 | |||||
19 |
★ Pet Taxi
FA: Marc Bourdon | 5.11a | 10m, 5 | |||||
20 | ★ Light My Way | 5.10d | 10m, 4 | |||||
21 | ★ Fur Bodysuit | 5.10b | 10m, 3 |
1.2.15. The Big Show 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.905333, -123.156235
description
Amazing climbs using connecting diagonal breaks in the overhanging wall above 'The Main Event'
approach
All routes start either to the left of 'Mirror Image' from 'The Main Event' or up the rope that is to the left.
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Pulse
The first 5.14a in Canada ever climbed. FFA: Jim Sandford, 1995 | 5.14a | 28m | |||||
2 | ★ Captain America | 5.14b | 30m | |||||
3 | ★ Revival | 5.14b | 30m | |||||
4 | ★★★ Superman | 5.14c | 30m | |||||
5 | ★ Gom Jabbar | 5.13b | 28m | |||||
6 |
★★ Freewill
FA: Jola Sandford, 1995 | 5.13c | 30m | |||||
7 | ★★ Division Bell | 5.13d | 28m | |||||
8 | ★★ Patience | 5.14a | 40m | |||||
9 | ★ Heat | 5.13d | 35m |
1.2.16. Echo Beach 18 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.904998, -123.156995
description
Dry in almost all conditions.
approach
Follow the trail from the "Big Show" until junction.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Chicken Joe | 5.11a | ||||
2 | ★★ Wave Machine | 5.12b | ||||
3 | ★★★ Zut Alors | 5.11c | ||||
4 | ★ Surf Park | 5.12a | ||||
5 | ★★ Tessellation | 5.12a | ||||
6 | Shameless | 5.12c | ||||
7 | Shark Teeth | 5.10d | ||||
8 | ★★★ Wild Swans | 5.12c | ||||
9 | ★★ I Schooled The Old Man | 5.11b | ||||
10 | Trenchancy | 5.13b | ||||
11 | Redacted | 5.11a | ||||
12 | Nazaré | 5.12b | ||||
13 | ★★ Stihl the Daddy | 5.11b | ||||
14 | Cape Fear | 5.12d | ||||
15 | The Third Rail | 5.11d | ||||
16 | The Overton Window | 5.12c | ||||
17 | Sheboygan | 5.12c | ||||
18 | Picûre de mouche ça bite | 5.9 |
1.2.17. The Main Event 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.905215, -123.156469
description
Located under a massive overhang, stays mostly dry in rain but may eventually seep through.
approach
Continue your walk south after parking in the Chek parking lot, found after Well of Souls
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Mirror Image
Climb the technical slab under the giant overhang FA: Roger Chayer, 1994 | 5.8 | 20m, 6 | |||||
2 |
★ Savage Beagle
Starts up the crack on the left of Mirror Image's slab. Clip the second bolt on the crack and then head left on the steeper face. FA: Roger Chayer, 1992 | 5.10a | 20m, 6 | |||||
3 |
★ Mother's Milk
Climb the slabby crack of Savage Beagle then head of the face FA: Roger Chayer, 1992 | 5.10d | 20m, 5 | |||||
4 |
★★ Kigijiushi
Climbs directly above the toe of the slab on edges and pockets FA: Roger Chayer, 1992 | 5.10c | 25m, 8 | |||||
5 |
★★ Dark Don't Lie
Long black streak just left of Kigijiushi. FA: Roger Chayer, 1992 | 5.11a | 25m, 7 | |||||
6 |
★ Dog Brain
The extension of Dark Don't Lie, bring gear for the flake. A trad continuation above Cupola Rebuff. | 5.11b | 35m, 5 | |||||
7 |
★★ Cupola Rebuff
Route furthest left, climb the face and through some balancy overlap | 5.11b/c | 25m, 9 |
1.2.18. Well of Souls 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.905251, -123.155544
approach
At the sign for the 'Big Show' look to the left and cross some large boulders. There is a sign for this place on top of it's boulder with a rope connecting to the top. The entrance is going left and down into the slot between the two large boulders.
history
The area was developed by Adrian Wilson in 1994 and he named it after the underground snake pit in "Raiders of the Lost Ark".
The only rock drill available for rent at the time was a gasoline powered unit that was as big as a medium-sized chainsaw. All of the routes that Adrian put up (including on Shoot Kill Wall) were bolted using that monstrous drill.
The first climb in the area was Timber Queen by Geoff Creighton.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ We Meet Again, Fraulein
Face climb along the corner of the boulder. Small ledges up and a layback to finish. FA: Adrian Wilson, 1994 | 5.9 | 10m, 5 | |||||
2 |
★ I Hate Snakes
Follow the various ledges straight up to the anchors. FA: Adrian Wilson, 1994 | 5.9 | 10m, 5 | |||||
3 |
★★ Bad Dates
Climb up the ledges and traverse right to the inside corner. Use the left two jugs to raise yourself higher and traverse back. Crux at the finish. (Warning: this climb does not have rap rings) FA: Adrian Wilson, 1994 | 5.10d | 10m, 5 | |||||
4 |
★ Marion Ravenwood
A short set of ledges near the bottom lead to a slabby climb around the corner. FA: Adrian Wilson, 1994 | 5.9 | 10m, 5 | |||||
5 |
★ Professor Ravenwood
Follow the slab directly up using the ledges. Crux is between the first and second bolt. FA: Adrian Wilson, 1994 | 5.8 | 10m, 4 | |||||
6 |
Unknown
Climb along the arete across from the main boulder. Small sharp crimps as holds and feet. Good rest points along the way. | 5.11a | 4 | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★ A Stab In The Dark
Very cruxy start onto the wall to the first bolt turns into a solid climb with plenty of jugs. FA: Pam Bourdon, 1998 | 5.10b | 10m, 4 | |||||
8 |
★ Timber Queen
Start up the steep roof, a low start on left jugs goes at 5.13a FA: Geoff Creighton, 1994 | 5.12c | 10m, 5 | |||||
9 |
All Good Atheists go to Heaven
Left climb on the overhang. | 5.12d |
1.2.19. Rock of Ages 18 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
approach
15min
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Walk this Way | 5.11d | 10m, 4 | |||
2 | Sunday Bloody Sunday | 5.12b | 14m, 5 | |||
3 | Sweet Emotion | 5.11a | 16m, 9 | |||
4 | She Sells Sanctuary | 5.11a | 16m, 8 | |||
5 | ★ For Those About to Rock | 5.10c | 16m, 8 | |||
6 | Into the Mystic | 5.10d | 30m, 15 | |||
7 | Free Bird | 5.12a | 30m, 12 | |||
8 | Open Project | |||||
9 | Another One Bites the Dust | 5.12a | 13m, 6 | |||
10 | Boots or Hearts | 5.12c | 13m, 5 | |||
11 | Fistful of Steel | 5.13b | 12m, 6 | |||
12 | ★★★ Emotional Rescue | 5.11a | 12m, 6 | |||
13 | ★★ Go on Your Way | 5.11d | 12m, 6 | |||
14 | Sabotage | 5.12c | 10m, 5 | |||
15 | Back in Black | 5.12a | 10m, 5 | |||
16 | Paint It Black | 5.12c | 10m, 5 | |||
17 | Fade to Black | 5.12b | 4m, 8 | |||
18 | Black Hole Sun | 5.11a | 7m, 3 |
1.2.20. Electric Avenue 44 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.902599, -123.158341
approach
Right off Highway 99 on the Conroy FSR. Park at the yellow gate and walk ~5 min up the FSR to Electric Avenue
1.2.20.1. The Substation 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 49.903362, -123.161582
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Zero Bars | 5.11c | 10m, 4 | |||
2 | Leakage Flux | 5.10d | 10m, 5 | |||
3 | Crosstalk | 5.12b | 10m, 5 | |||
4 | Incandescence | 5.12d | 9m, 4 | |||
5 | Impedance Wave | 5.12c | 9m, 4 | |||
6 | ★★ Inductance | 5.10b | 9m, 4 |
1.2.20.2. Electric Avenue 36 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 49.902766, -123.160919
description
The main area. You can't miss it - a large pullout with rock surrounding it.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Darkness at Teatime
FA: Toby Foord - Kelcey | 5.11a | 30m, 15 | |||
2 |
★★ Solstice Delirium
FA: Toby Foord-Kelcey | 5.11b | 28m, 14 | |||
3 |
★★★ The Heel Stone
FFA: Kay Wong FA: Toby Foord-Kelcey | 5.10b | 28m, 12 | |||
4 |
★ Down on the Corner
FA: Jack Fieldhouse | 5.10c | 13m, 6 | |||
5 |
★ Aparigraha
FA: Toby Foord-Kelcey, 2019 | 5.12b | 13m, 4 | |||
6 |
★★ The Torii Gate
FA: Leo Foord-Kelcey | 5.10c | 13m, 8 | |||
7 |
Dry the Rain
FFA: Toby Foord - Kelcey FA: Todd Gerhart | 5.10c | 11m, 5 | |||
8 | ★★ Minds of Winter | 5.11a | 12m, 5 | |||
9 | ★★ Stella | 5.10b | 11m, 6 | |||
10 | ★★ The Gift of the Magi | 5.10a | 22m, 10 | |||
11 | ★★ Bell's Mono | 5.11d | 25m, 10 | |||
12 | ★★ Railton Road | 5.10a | 25m, 11 | |||
13 | ★★ The Monatude | 5.10d | 25m, 11 | |||
14 | ★★ Bolt from the Blue | 5.9 | 25m, 10 | |||
15 |
★★ St. Elmo's Fire
The bolted crack up the middle of the wall | 5.8 | 20m, 8 | |||
16 | ★★ Uncontrolled Release | 5.12a | 17m, 7 | |||
17 | ★★ Nihilist Porcupine | 5.12c | 12m, 5 | |||
18 | 3 Hex | 5.12b | 9m, 4 | |||
19 | ★★ Credulous Hedgehog | 5.10d | 13m, 6 | |||
20 | ★ Tyrannosauress | 5.11c | 13m, 5 | |||
21 | ★ Momzilla | 5.10c | 13m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★ Kye's Stairway to Seven | 5.6 | 40m, 2, 14 | |||
23 | ★ Out in the Street | 5.7 | 17m, 9 | |||
24 | ★★★ Out in the Daytime | 5.8 | 20m, 13 | |||
25 | ★★ Out in the Night | 5.7 | 20m, 11 | |||
26 | ★ Then We'll Take It Higher | 5.8 | 33m, 13 | |||
27 | ★ Rock Down To | 5.9 | 20m, 8 | |||
28 | ★ The Smart Route | 5.7 | 8m, 4 | |||
29 | The Amazing Route | 5.6 | 8m, 3 | |||
30 |
The Cliff of Awesome
FA: Kye Egan-Robinson, 2018 | 5.4 | 8m, 4 | |||
31 | ★★ Tailgate Party | 5.5 | 13m, 7 | |||
32 | Park Rat | 5.4 | 13m, 7 | |||
33 | ★ Misty 9 | 5.3 | 9m, 4 | |||
34 | ★ Taiga Feet | 5.7 | 28m, 10 | |||
35 | ★★ Taiga Face | 5.7 | 27m, 12 | |||
36 | ★★ A Gentle Tingle | 5.9 | 20m, 8 |
1.2.20.3. Mt. Chek 2 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 49.902441, -123.158373
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Frontside 180
Generously bolted route; bolts can be skipped and pitches linked. Bring lots of draws or be ok with run out to skip bolts in order to link pitches (all pitches are <25m, last 2 are ~10m each). Pitch: # bolts (does not include anchors) 1: 8 bolts? 2: 15 bolts 3: 11 bolts 4: 10 bolts 5: 11 bolts 6: 13 bolts 7: 5 bolts 8: 12 bolts 9: 3 bolts 10: 4 bolts FA: Toby Foord-Kelcey, James Foord Kelcey, Tess Egan, Jay Robinson & Kye Egan-Robinson | 5.8 | 220m, 10 | |||
2 |
Cab 5
This starts just above the pitch 4 anchors of Frontside 180, on climbers left. Some mossy scrambling required to get to the start, and also to get from the top of climb back to Frontside 180 (top of pitch 6). | 5.10b | 18m, 9 |
1.2.21. The Monastery 28 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.902979, -123.157945
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Enemy at the gates | 5.11a | 16m, 8 | |||
2 | Brothers In Arms | 5.12a | ||||
3 | Way of a The Warrior Monk | 5.11d | ||||
4 | ★ Seven Habits | 5.11b | ||||
5 | Monkey Business | 5.13a | ||||
6 | Land of The Blind | 5.11d | ||||
7 | Seva | 5.12a | ||||
8 | The Evil Chimney | 5.7 | ||||
9 | Golden Handcuffs | 5.13a | ||||
10 |
★★★ The Lorax
FFA: Eric Hughes, 2017 | 5.13a | 20m, 8 | |||
11 | ★★ The Heretic | 5.13d | ||||
12 | ★★★ The Heretic Direct | 5.14b | ||||
13 | ★★★ Out of the Darkness into the light | 5.12a | ||||
14 | Revelations | 5.12c | ||||
15 | Mystery woman | 5.12d | ||||
16 | ★★★ Have Your Babies and Leave | 5.11c | ||||
17 | Pump Junkies | 5.12d | ||||
18 | ★★ Big Brother | 5.13b | ||||
19 | ★★★ Little Sister | 5.13b | 15m, 6 | |||
20 | Separation Anxiety | 5.13c | ||||
21 | ★★★ Prancercise | 5.12c | 12m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★ Satori | 5.11a | 23m, 11 | |||
23 | ★★ Surface Tension | 5.12b | ||||
24 | ★★ The Schism | 5.10c | 20m, 8 | |||
25 | ★★ Puzzle Box Left | 5.12b | 28m, 11 | |||
26 | Puzzle Box | 5.12c | ||||
27 | Gerontology | |||||
28 | Asthmatic Seagull | 5.12d |
1.2.22. The Gorge 0 routes in Area
1.3. Rehabilitation Projects 15 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.911516, -123.166946
1.3.1. The Speedway 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Beefwhale | 5.9 | 50m | |||
2 | Memphis Bound | 5.8 | 2 |
1.3.2. Stump Wall 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Feel Me, I'm 100% Rubber | 5.10b | 8m | |||
2 | ★★ Peeler | 5.10d | 12m | |||
3 | ★ Root Sucker | 5.10c | 8m | |||
4 | Stump | 5.10a | 8m |
1.3.3. This Is Your Brain 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.911600, -123.167190
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Jugular Vein | 5.9 | 30m | |||
2 | Mad Science | 5.10b | 40m | |||
3 | Idiot Savant | 5.10c | 35m |
1.3.4. Ripple Tower 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Blast-Off | 5.11a | 10m | |||
2 | ★★ Born In Buoux | 5.12b | 12m | |||
3 | ★ Static Quo | 5.11b | 12m | |||
4 | Stick Meister | 5.11d | 12m | |||
5 | ★ Trick Meister | 5.11b | 12m | |||
6 | ★ Opening Hand | 5.11d | 12m |
1.4. The outpost 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.935497, -123.155767
description
Right now there are 4 multi-pitch route
approach
It is possible to drive in a 4x4 around 2.4km on conroy forest road past the main parking lot on the sharp turn (right) around go straight into a clear to park. From there is just a 15/20min walk on a groomed hight flagged path intul the obvious huge talus field with a huge sign of the outpost. From there follow the cairns up and left for centurion up and right to Western Harlot and 100Zulu
history
Just started getting Develop last year 2013
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Death Of The Republic
New route (Jul 2023). Start 50m up the hill lookers left of the start of Centurion, in a small clearing FA: Dane Schellenberg w/ Marie-Eve Bergeron, JF Dube, Alex Greaves & Marcus Wybrow w/ D. Schellenberg | 5.10c | 6 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★ Centurion
Heads up the longest section of wall in the area. | 5.10c | 170m, 6, 51 | |||||
3 |
★★ Western Harlot
Great lil multi-pitch with a good hike for a approach so you will probably be alone. Really nice 5.9 traverse crux on second pitch. And the 5.8 crux is fun and can be made into more of a 10.a move if you go left. | 5.9 | 100m, 4, 28 | |||||
4 |
★★ 100 Zulu
Same approach as to Western Harlot, but starts just after the rope pull to get to it, very obvious line of bolts up a ramp to a roof.
Descent is either from the summit rappel the chains of Western Harlot to the bottom (4 rappels) or from the top of 3rd pitch in 3 rappels to ground. FA: Ben Groundwater, Tennesse Trent & Conn Amelunxen, 2015 | 5.10a | 86m, 4 |
1.5. Rogues Gallery 49 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.942578, -123.165598
1.5.1. Road Warrior 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Highway Robbery | 5.10a | 18m | |||||
2 | ★ Winnebozo Warpath | 5.10a | 18m | |||||
3 | ★ Road Warrior | 5.9 | 18m |
1.5.2. Hoods in the Woods 13 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Spro | 5.10c | 15m | |||
2 | ★ Sproton | 5.12a | 25m | |||
3 | ★ Take a Hit | 5.11d | 25m | |||
4 |
★ Chasin' the Train
FA: Roger Chayer, 1994 | 5.10a | 22m | |||
5 |
★ Bout du Monde
FA: Roger Chayer, 1994 | 5.10a | 22m | |||
6 |
★★ Gravity Can't Dance
One of the best 10b climbs in the area. Anchors are offset so for a second or top rope a long sling anchor is best. And a Rap descent. Most anchors if not all in the rogues are like this. FA: Roger Chayer, 1993 | 5.10b | 20m, 8 | |||
7 |
★★ Stimulus Package
FA: Nick McNutt, 2021 | 5.10a | 22m | |||
8 |
★★★ Layer Cake
FA: Colin Moorhead, 2021 | 5.10a | 24m | |||
9 |
The Gang's All Here
FA: Harry Young, 2021 | 5.10b | 24m | |||
10 |
★★ Pockets Full of Kryptonite
Great consistent 10c climbing into a great rest spot then a 11b crux to the finish | 5.11b | 18m, 7 | |||
11 |
Hippie in the Hood
FA: Jamie Selda, 2021 | 5.10a | 28m | |||
12 |
★ Hollow Deck
Maint: Jamie Selda & Colin Moorhead, 2021 | 5.10d | 18m | |||
13 | ★★ American Heavy | 5.11a | 16m |
1.5.3. Grand Larceny 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Stagger, Crawl, Roll | 5.11c | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | ★★★ Yellow Beard | 5.12a | 20m, 9 | |||||
3 | ★★★ Ancient Heart | 5.11c | 20m | |||||
4 | ★★ This is the New Stuff | 5.11a | 18m | |||||
5 |
★★★ He-man
Burly Underclings and side pulls | 5.12d | 7 |
1.5.4. Capone Wall 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Serendipity | 5.12d | 24m | |||
2 | ★★★ Chromatic Suspension | 5.11d | 22m | |||
3 | ★ Instigator | 5.12a | 20m | |||
4 | ★ Cancelled Czech | 5.11b | 20m | |||
5 | ★★ Double Expresso | 5.11a | 18m |
1.5.5. Tyjax Wall 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Action Jackson | 5.11b | 27m, 13 | |||
2 | ★★ Jack of Hearts | 5.11c | 20m | |||
3 | ★★ This Bud's For You | 5.11c | 23m | |||
4 | ★ Ty Man | 5.12b | 12m | |||
5 | ★ If Looks Could Kill | 5.12b | 22m |
1.5.6. Tommy Gun Wall 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Beg! | 5.11c | 22m | |||||
2 | ★★ Borrow | 5.11d | 22m | |||||
3 | ★★ Freeloader | 5.12c | 25m | |||||
4 | ★★ Glam-Rock | 5.12a | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
5 | ★★★ Fitness World | 5.13c | 35m |
1.5.7. Urban Crime 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ETX | 5.11a | 10m | |||
2 | ★ Love Emotion | 5.6 | 8m | |||
3 | Love Deluxe | 5.7 | 8m |
1.5.8. The Keep 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pitter Patter | 5.10c | 12m |
1.5.9. Halfway House 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ The Sanctuary | 5.11d | 20m | |||
2 | ★★ The Compromise | 5.11b | 25m | |||
3 | ★★ The Compromise Direct | 5.12b | 25m |
1.5.10. The Slammer 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Meingh | 5.11c | 12m | |||
2 | ★ Natural Selection | 5.10b | 12m | |||
3 |
★★ Minotaur
Savage boulder down low, into good rest, Beautiful arete climbing to finish | 5.13c | 10 |
1.5.11. Great Escape Wall 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Don't Harsh My Mellow | 5.11d | 20m | |||
2 | ★ Digitizer | 5.12d | 15m | |||
3 | ★ Bongathon | 5.11b | 15m |
1.6. Sport Temple 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.906203, -123.164917
description
Short overhanging crag that is visible from 99. Dry in light rain, except for climbs after Gong Show which are slab and not covered.
approach
There is a forest path directly across the highway from the Conroy Creek Forest Service Road parking lot. The path is just a few paces north on 99. There will be 2 thin fixed lines to help with a scramble up the rocks. Follow the forest trail for 10 minutes and arrive at the crag. Sport Temple will be on the left or continue right for Pleasure Dome. If you reach the no left turn sign off the highway, you have gone too far north.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Just Glue It
Furthest left on the cliff, sleep and bouldery | 5.12a | 8m, 6 | |||
2 |
★★ Gluetumous Maximus
Climbs overhanding arete right of Just Glue It | 5.11d | 12m, 8 | |||
3 |
★ French Connection
Climbs up Gluetumous to bold six and then traverses left | 5.12a | 12m, 9 | |||
4 |
Fast Runner
Follows a short bolt line that heads right | 5.12c/d | 12m, 5 | |||
5 |
★★★ First Blood
Up the centre of the cliff | 5.13a | 10m, 5 | |||
6 |
★★ Super Panini
Just left of Numorality | 5.13c | 10m, 7 | |||
7 | ★★ Numorality | 5.12a | 12m, 6 | |||
8 |
★★ Exit Stage Left
Climbs up the right most bolt line | 5.11c | 12m, 6 | |||
9 |
Gong Show
Lone route between Sport Temple and the two pitch Phantom Menace | 5.10a | 12m, 5 | |||
10 |
Phantom Menace
Pitch 1: 3 bolts, 5.7 Pitch 2: 5 bolts, 5.9 Low angle route where the trail meets the crag | 5.9 | 2, 8 | |||
11 | AC DC | 5.12b | 10m, 6 |
1.7. Pleasure Dome 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.907685, -123.165046
approach
Same approach as Sport Temple. There is a forest path directly across the highway from the Conroy Creek Forest Service Road parking lot. The path is just a few paces north on 99. There will be 2 thin fixed lines to help with a scramble up the rocks. Follow the forest trail for 10 minutes and arrive at the crag. Sport Temple will be on the left or continue right for 5 minutes to get to Pleasure Dome. If you reach the no left turn sign off the highway, you have gone too far north.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Excellent adventure
A bit weird FA: Tyron Brett, 2005 | 5.10a | 18m, 10 | |||
2 | ★★ Cornucopia | 5.10c | 10m | |||
3 | ★★ Easy Prey | 5.11b | 10m | |||
4 | ★ Technoambush | 5.12b | 10m | |||
5 | ★ XTC | 5.12d | 8m | |||
6 | ★★★ Ibiza | 5.13a | 10m | |||
7 | ★ Go For The Spine | 5.12a | 10m |
1.8. The Gym 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.907606, -123.161961
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Whiplash | 5.12a | 5m | |||
2 | ★ Dog Day Afternoon | 5.12a | 8m | |||
3 | ★ Spayed Alive | 5.11c | 8m | |||
4 | Bulldog | 5.10d | 5m | |||
5 | Furrari | 5.12a | 5m | |||
6 | Skin and Bones | 5.10c | 5m | |||
7 | ★ El Gordo | 5.9 | 5m | |||
8 | ★ Belay Slave | 5.6 | 5m | |||
9 | Dr. Tongue | 5.11b | 8m | |||
10 | ★ Sinfest | 5.12b | 10m | |||
11 | Seven | 5.12b | 10m | |||
12 | ★★ Power Slave | 5.12d | 10m | |||
13 | Brain Scan | 5.11b | 7m | |||
14 | Warm Up | 5.10a | 7m |
1.9. The Gorge 29 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.924114, -123.167174
description
About a km north of Conroy Forest Road, route 99 winds down towards the Cheakamus river. This area climbs canyon walls on the east side of the river, below the road.
approach
Generally rappel in.
1.9.1. Galaxy Buttress 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.923768, -123.167006
summary
Great View
description
A fun beginner sport multi-pitch with some amazing views. 5.5-5.9 climbing.
access issues
Access it is by the cairned trail that starts in the pullout with the car park and picnic table. Just right of the billboard the trail is very clear and well maintained, I cannot imagine any reason to rap the route as it is faster than walking the same distance on the side of the road and you save yourself the raps. If by whatever reason you want to rap it walk on the side of the road back towards Squamish until you pass a rock outcrop with a cairns that marks the way, follow it and you will arrive to the top of Star Check. The rap anchors are 5 meters to the right as you look down(climbers left, there is pic underneath). UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE SHOULD PEOPLE RAP THE ROUTE. (Someone should cut the chains of the last anchor of star check so people can only rap on the rap route) as you will be throwing the rope on climbers, there is potential for rock fall at the top and the rap stations will save you one rap as it can be done in 2 raps with a 70m rope and 3 with a 60 vs 4 if you rap the climbing route.
approach
Access is by the cairned trail that starts in the pullout with the car park and picnic table. Just right of the billboard the trail is very clear and well maintained, I cannot imagine any reason to rap the route as it is faster than walking the same distance on the side of the road and you save yourself the raps. If by whatever reason you want to rap it walk on the side of the road back towards Squamish until you pass a rock outcrop with cairns that marks the way, follow it and you will arrive to the top of Star Check. The rap anchors are 5 meters to the right as you look down, (climbers left, there is pic underneath). UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE SHOULD PEOPLE RAP THE ROUTE. (Someone should cut the chains of the last anchor of star check so people can only rap on the rap route) as you will be throwing the rope on climbers, there is potential for rock fall at the top and the rap stations will save you one rap as it can be done in 2 raps with a 70m rope and 3 with a 60 vs 4 if you rap the climbing route.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Unknown route
Follow's 'Star Chek's' rappel line up | |||||||
2 |
★★ Beam Me Up, Scotty
Trad climb left of Star Chek. First pitch is a bit chossy, with a gear belay off stump and gear in higher crack. 2nd and 3rd pitch make the climb worthwhile. (Possible 2nd pitch variant up dyke on the right, unknown grade) FA: Milke Vanwerkhoven, Brian Liu & Alan Trick, 2017 | 5.8 | 72m, 3 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Star Chek
Climb up the ramp out of the gorge, staying along the arete. Nice climbing with beautiful views. P1. 5.7 20m, 4 bolts P2. 5.7 45m, 8 bolts (don't stop at the first anchor -- this is just an intermediate rap station) P3. 5.9 20m, 4 bolts Pitch 3 Variation: 5.10c climbs to the left, around the corner, to the same upper belay location. NOTE: The trail from the car park IS the way to go as per the update on Quickdraw Publications. Its is a well maintained trail with just a shitty move on scree slope but totally safe, much quicker than walking the same distance and then raping. If for whatever mysterious reason you want to rap, the rap station is 5 meter left of the chains from top of start check as per pic below. Can be done in 2 raps with a 70m rope or 3 with a 60m. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD PEOPLE RAP THE ROUTE extremely likely that someone is climbing it and you will be on their way, rock fall possible from the top, and its 4 raps instead of 3 if you chose the rap station Set: Ron Goldstone, 1994 FA: Sig Isaak & Kevin McLane (Ron Goldstone), 1995 | 5.9 | 85m, 3, 16 | |||||
4 |
★★ Star Chek (10c Variant)
Follow the standard line up the first two pitches (5.7). P3: Follow a line of bolts up the arete (5.10c) | 5.10c | 85m, 3 | |||||
5 |
Apollo 13
From the first rap anchor down the ramp, instead of continuing down the ramp, rap of the edge into the gorge. Climb the mixed route up this face in two pitches. (Then probably the 10c variation of Star Chek to finish). FA: Kevin McLane & Joe Turley, 1995 | 5.10d | 50m, 2 | |||||
|
1.9.2. The Leaning Tower of Pizza Wall / Gotham City 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.924452, -123.166987
description
Long Wall on the left up the scree as you approach Star Chek from the Carpark via walking through the Gorge
approach
Stay close to the wall after walking through the gorge or head up from Star Chek after reppeling in. Easier to walk in.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | City Limits | 5.11a | 12m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | I Ain't Got No Friends | 5.12a | 9 | |||||
3 | Hallucinogenetic | 5.11d | 20m, 9 | |||||
4 | Nirvanic Express | 5.12a | 20m, 9 | |||||
5 |
The Leaning Tower of Pizza
Up Chimney | 5.9 | 35m | |||||
6 | Boy Blunder | 5.10b | 27m, 5 | |||||
7 | Poison Ivy | 5.10b | 22m | |||||
8 | Cat Walk | 5.10a | 27m | |||||
9 | The Bat Cave | 5.10a | 35m, 2, 5 | |||||
10 | Alfred | 5.9 | 20m | |||||
11 | Jokers Corner | 5.10b | 18m, 4 | |||||
12 | Laredo | 5.11c | 20m | |||||
13 | Escape From Arkum | 5.10a | 18m | |||||
14 | Jumping Jeep Dihedral | 5.9 | 20m | |||||
15 | Two Face | 5.10d | 35m, 8 |
1.9.3. The Courthouse 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.925416, -123.166278
approach
From the carpark find the climber trail from behind the large advertising signage. Follow down into the gorge, wall is on the left just pass large boulders up a large blocky scree slope.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Two Aretes Syndrome | 5.11b | 20m, 8 | |||
2 | Corpus Delecti | 5.12a | 30m, 3 | |||
3 |
Cross Examination
Roof with bolts to anchor, 2 pitch climb? | 5.10d | 25m | |||
4 |
Pro Rata
Not much pro | 5.10a | 20m | |||
5 | Pro Nata | 5.8 | 25m |
1.9.4. The Suburb 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.925562, -123.166589
description
On the right hand of the gorge as you are heading toward the river from the carpark.
approach
From the carpark find the climbers trail from behind the large advertising signage. Follow down into the gorge, wall is on the right just pass large boulders.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Drag The Magic Puffin
Just left of 9 Inch. | 5.10d | 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | Nine Inch Rage Against Jane's Tool | 5.8 | ||||||
3 |
Unknown route
Right of 9 Inch | 5.11a | 2 |
1.9.5. Trestle Tower 1 route in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.922272, -123.168436
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
East Face
Access Issue: Requires trespassing over rail bridge. No Anchor, Sling summit to reppel FA: Dick Culbert, Glenn Woodsworth & George Hedley, 1964 | 5.6 R | 30m | |||||
|
1.10. Echo Beach 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
summary
Uphill from Circus. Lots of 5.12s
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Surf Park | 5.12a | ||||
2 | ★★ Tessellation | 5.12a | ||||
3 | ★★ Chicken Joe | 5.11a | ||||
4 | ★★★ Wave Machine | 5.12b | ||||
5 | Apprentice Arête | 5.11a | ||||
6 | Zut Alors! | 5.11c | ||||
7 | Shark Teeth | 5.10d | ||||
8 | The Overton Window | 5.12c | ||||
9 | ★★ Shameless | 5.12b | ||||
10 | Wild Swans | 5.12c |