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Description

A south-west facing wall left of the prominent top-to-bottom corner that is one of the most visible features on the main cliff area.

Access issues inherited from Weir

The land is owned by Teleglobe Canada (now Tata Communications?), please do nothing that might cause them to remove permission to climb.

The climbing is managed/insured by the FQME (http://www.fqme.qc.ca), you should be a member to climb here.

Approach

Hike past the satellite dishes and up the old road until an obvious trail branches to the left towards the cliff. Follow this up torwards the cliff where there is a huge corner between the large, south-facing part of the cliff and a more south-west facing section. This is the south-west facing section, running up a series of tiers then up the descent gully.

Descent Notes

At the top, hike climbers left up for a bit, then descend keeping the cliff to the right down obvious trails and an easy (generally 2nd class) descent gully.

Routes

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Grade Route

About half-way up the gully left of "Biorythme" are three short bolted sport routes on overhanging rock on the right (while ascending) side of the gully. (This gully is, also, the descent from Adagio, and other climbs that reach the top of the cliff.)

1
5.11a (unknown sport 1) Sport

Left of the three routes up the gully.

2
5.12a (unknown sport 2) Sport

Center of the three routes up the gully.

3
5.11c (unknown sport 3) Sport

Right of the three routes up the gully.

4
5.12c Biorythme Sport
5
5.10+ Dragon Trad
6
5.8 Adagio Trad 80m

Bolted anchors on pitches 1, 3, and 4. In situ 2 pins and nut on pitch 2.

Descent: scramble up from top of cliff to path, then hike leftwards and down a (class 3) gulley to the left of the wall.

7
5.7 Persistance Trad

Variant start for "Adagio".

8
5.10 Allegro Trad
9
5.11 Subversion Trad
10