This is the first line climbed at at the cliff. Super exposed traverse moves while keeping the grade low. P2 and 3 are traverse pitches and it is advised to protect the route while thinking of your second.
(1. original - climb dirty ledges and cracks a few meters right of "Persistance",s first pitch (described above), until you can step left to the bolted anchor on the small ledge.)
5.7 The usual choice, now (cleaner and more interesting climbing) is to climb the first pitch of "Persistance": climb the 2nd dihedral right of "Biorythme" to the cracks in the orange dihedral. At the big triangular roof, traverse out right to the belay ledge.
5.6 Step around the ledge to a super aerial chimney move, then follow the crack for a few moves until you can make your way across to the right. Suggested belay on the large flake just before the vertical crack that goes to the roof. Keep a #3 if you can.
5.6 The money shot pitch (unless you started on Persistance)! Climb the easy crack leading to the roof and traverse right with careful footwork. Bolted anchor after the traverse.
5.9 Clip a piton and make your way up using the arete. There are about 4 moves of hardly protectable climbing leading to a hike to the anchor.
Descent: scramble up from the top of the cliff to the path, then hike leftwards and down a (class 3) gulley to the left of the wall.
There is no known route history.
5.7,5.6,5.6,5.9 | Assigned grade |
5.7, 5.6, 5.6, 5.8 | David Gibbs |
Overall quality 75 from 8 ratings.
Based on 1 ratings.
Based on 1 ratings.
Author(s): Pierre Cornellier, David Marche
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9782981910806
Discover what Mont Larose has to offer. The third edition of this guide includes more than 200 ice, rock, and mixed routes of all difficulty levels. Within the guide's 132 pages are detailed topos and route descriptions, maps, olour photos, and historical information to help you plan your weekend or trip. Text is in french.
Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing
Login to see the timeline!