Cochrane Lane Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Sergey Komarov Anders Fougner Jeff Phil.L Mike Walton Gavin Liam Tapp

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Cochrane Lane 106 in Crag
- 1.1. Pyramid Wall 12 in Area
- 1.2. Joe's Garage 19 in Crag
- 1.3. Upper Tier 35 in Area
- 1.4. Gallery 2 in Area
- 1.5. Lower Dawn 11 in Area
- 1.6. Upper Dawn 4 in Area
- 1.7. Amphitheatre 5 in Area
- 1.8. Gollum's Cave 2 in Area
- 1.9. Cheekbone Corner 1 in Area
- 1.10. Pooh Corner 0 in Area
- 1.11. Waterfall Wall 8 in Area
- 1.12. Minkey Wall 3 in Area
- 1.13. King Arthur's Playground 3 in Area
- 1.14. Simpson Wall 1 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. Cochrane Lane 106 routes in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

Mostly Trad climbing

access issues

This crag is primarily on land that is part of Canadian Forces Base Gagetown. They tolerate climbing when they are not conducting exercises in the area, but climbers are required to call or check-in before climbing. Ascent NB manages this access agreement.

inherited from Welsford

approach

Once you are on Colchrane lane, follow the road till you can see the very last farm (it has three large warehouse like structures on its land). Before the farm there is some sort of excavated pit and a yellow sign warning about something military related. The simplest route up to the crag seems to start from the left side of the pit and head along the forest (probably part of the farm land) and then into the forest. there's a somewhat clear path up to a map (now faded) and directions to specific crags.

1.1. Pyramid Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:: All Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Trundle Flakes FA: J. Corey & B. Turner, 2010	5.10a PG13	Mixed trad 23m, 1
2	Incognito FA: Greg Hughes, Steve Adamson & Joe Kennedy	5.7	Mixed trad 30m, 1
3	★★ About a Rope	5.7	Trad 30m
4	★★ Sweet Potato Pie	5.8	Trad 30m
5	Puff the Magic Dragon FA: S. Bethune, 1998	5.8 PG13	Trad 30m
6	One More For The Road Starts on 'Puff the magic Dragon'. Finishes on 'Pass the Moonshine'. FA: E. Sloan & E. Côté, 2020	5.6 X	Trad 24m
7	★ Pass the moonshine	5.7	Trad 25m
8	Reincarnation Finish up 'Montezuma's Revenge' FA: S. Adamson & R. Burton, 1990	5.10a	Trad 12m
9	★★★ Montezuma's Revenge FFA: S. Adamson & R. Burton, 1990	5.11c	Mixed trad 15m, 2
10	★★ Sarcophagus FA: U. Richard, 2002	5.9 PG13	Mixed trad 15m, 2
11	★★ Mr Clean	5.6	Trad 20m
12	★★ Spiderman	5.8	Trad 20m

1.2. Joe's Garage 19 routes in Crag

Summary:: Mostly Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★★ Menage A Trois Link-up of Waterwalk (30m, 5.8 G) Astroboy Direct (30m, 5.8 G) DDT (30m, 5.9 G).	5.9	Trad 90m
2	★★ Astroboy	5.8	Trad 20m
3	★★★ Astroboy Direct	5.9	Trad 20m
4	★★★ DDT	5.9	Trad 30m
5	★ Some Enchanted Evening	5.3	Trad 30m
6	★★★ Bone Machine Maint: Bérubé FA: Ghislain Losier, 2000	5.11b	Sport 30m, 6
7	★★★ Telefunken U-47	5.10a	Mixed trad 35m, 5
8	★★★ Gumby Roof	5.10+	Trad 30m
9	★★★ Catholic Girls	5.10b	Trad 30m
10	★★★ Think Pure Thoughts	5.8	Trad 30m
11	★★★ The Central Scrutinizer	5.11d	Mixed trad 25m, 4
12	★★★ Sticky Fingers Maint: Maint: 2009	5.10b	Mixed trad 25m, 1
13	★★★ Mammalian Protuberances	5.7	Trad 20m
14	★★★ Snakepeel	5.7	Trad 25m
15	Anything for 50 Bucks	5.6 R	Trad 22m
16	★★ It's A Way of Life	5.4	Trad 20m
17	Shredded Wheat FFA: S Hall	5.8 PG	Mixed trad 15m, 1
18	Pizza FFA: 1994	5.5 G	Trad 12m
19	Jack in a Box FA: 1994	5.6 G	Trad 12m

1.3. Upper Tier 35 routes in Area

Summary:: Trad climbing and Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Witches	5.10b G	Trad 20m
2	★ The Talamasca	5.9 G	Trad 20m
3	★★★ Evolution	5.11c	Trad 20m
4	★★ Steal your face	5.8 G	Trad 20m
5	Lithium crystals	5.12a PG	Trad 15m
6	★★ Adventure pedestre	5.7 G	Trad 20m
7	★ Be still my bleeding heart	5.11a G	Trad 20m
8	Hole in my pocket	5.11a	Trad 20m
9	Cherry Garcia	5.7 PG	Trad 20m
10	Dawn cherry	5.11a	Trad 20m
11	★ Tweety bird	5.10c G	Trad 15m
12	Taz	5.11a R	Trad 15m
13	★★ Yosemite Sam	5.8	Trad 15m
14	Bugs bunny	5.9 G	Sport 15m
15	★ Show me the muffin	5.6	Sport 15m
16	Feathers	5.11a G	Sport 20m
17	Wile E. Coyote	5.7 G	Trad 20m
18	Prairie-wolf	5.10a G	Trad 20m
19	La Peur	5.10	Trad 20m
20	Rock Jock	5.11b	Trad 20m
21	Olockitolot	5.10b	Sport 20m
22	Finger the mono shorty	5.10d	Sport 20m
23	Ruffus	5.10c G	Trad 15m
24	The great balancing act	5.10b G	Trad 15m
25	The tango	5.10a G	Trad 20m
26	★★★ The waltz	5.10a G	Trad 20m
27	Le miel est plus doux que le sang	5.12a	Trad 20m
28	L'ange qui saigne des plumes	5.11d	Sport 20m
29	La derniere tentation	5.11b	Trad 20m
30	Evil	5.9	Sport 25m
31	To save the princess	5.6 G	Trad 20m
32	★★★ Monsieur Torpedo	5.9	Sport 20m
33	★★ Most Unprecedented	5.10a	Sport 25m
34	★★ D-day	5.10a G	Trad 20m
35	★ Pas de deux	5.9 PG	Trad 20m

1.4. Gallery 2 routes in Area

Summary:: All Trad climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Sparky start	5.6 PG	Trad 30m
2		★★★ Waterwalk	5.8	Trad 45m

1.5. Lower Dawn 11 routes in Area

Summary:: Trad climbing and Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★★ Comrades in Springfield / Comrades in Destiny Access from far left of the Lower Down wall. Jump across a crack and then climb a series of 3 parallel cracks op the face. This is the most popular way up the face and is a shortcut to the upper part of the climb "Springfield 5.8G" avoiding the dirty lower half. It has previously been called Comrades in Destiny, thus the mixed name	5.8 G	Trad 25m
2	Partners in Crime FA: C. Norfolk & J Corey, 2012	5.8 PG13	Trad 20m
3	Sheet of Glass FA: T. Anderson, 2002	5.12a	Sport 15m
4	★★ Lichen Cream Cheese FA: R. Burton, 1990	5.8 G	Trad 20m
5	DoB FA: S. Adamson, 1990	5.10+	Mixed trad 17m, 1
6	Tipsy FA: S. Adamson, 1991	5.11d	Mixed trad 17m, 4
7	FiS FA: S. Ralster, 1989	5.10c	Trad 17m
8	The Dyke Route Provides access to 'Upper Dawn' Wall.	5.7	Trad 24m
9	★★★ Serenity	5.13a	Sport 20m
10	★★ Baby Face	5.12b	Sport 25m
11	★★ The Light Fandango Provides access to 'Upper Dawn' Wall.	5.6	Trad 70m

1.6. Upper Dawn 4 routes in Area

Summary:: All Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	The Ogre FA: Greg Hughes & Michel Martin, Sep 2020	5.7	Trad 26m
2	★★★ Whiter Shade of Pale	5.6	Trad 30m
3	★★★ Dynamic Duo	5.9	Trad 20m
4	★ Ziggy Piggy	5.10c	Trad 25m

1.7. Amphitheatre 5 routes in Area

Summary:: All Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★★ Rockstar FA: C. Richardson, T. Adnerson & J. Watts	5.9	Trad 30m
2	Mijlner FA: S. Adamson, 1996	5.10c PG13	Trad 24m
3	Flight of the Valkyries FA: P. Lloyd, 1996	5.11a	Trad 30m
4	Orpheus FA: P. Adamson & J. Adamson, 2020	5.13a	Mixed trad 30m, 5
5	Ragnarok FA: F. Côté, 2020	5.13b	Mixed trad 32m, 13

1.8. Gollum's Cave 2 routes in Area

Summary:: All Trad climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Reindeer land	5.5	Trad 30m
2		★★ Reindeer land w/Steve's overhang	5.6	Trad 30m

1.9. Cheekbone Corner 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Trad climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Cheekbone corner	5.7 R	Trad 100m, 4

1.10. Pooh Corner 0 routes in Area

1.11. Waterfall Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport climbing and Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Waterfall Arête FA: J. Kennedy, 1994	5.10c PG13	Trad 30m
2	Waterfall Layback FA: C. Bell & G. Lacroix, 1978	5.9	Trad 32m
3	Slippery when Wet FA: S. Adamson, 1990	5.11c	Trad 32m
4	Up Rope FA: S. Adamson & R. Burton, 1990	5.10a PG13	Mixed trad 26m, 1
5	★ Drytoolers Will be Prosecuted FA: F. Bérubé, 2006	5.9	Sport 29m
6	Dry Spell Starts on 'Goo-Ni-Goo-Goo', ends on 'Drytoolers Will be Prosecuted' FA: E. Sloan, F. Corbett & C. Trafton, 2020	5.9	Sport 23m, 6
7	★ Goo-Ni-Goo-Goo FA: F. Bérubé, 2006	5.7	Sport 24m
8	House Sass FA: A. Savoir & D. Caron, 2018	5.5	Sport 18m

1.12. Minkey Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:: All Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★★ The Pink Panther	5.10a	Trad 30m
2	★★★ A Warm and Sultry Evening	5.9	Trad 30m
3	★★★ The Smoking Crack	5.8	Trad 30m

1.13. King Arthur's Playground 3 routes in Area

Summary:: All Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Salt 'n' Pepper	5.7	Trad 30m
2	★★★ 5.8 for Style	5.8	Trad 30m
3	★ Dash of Fall Memory	5.7	Trad 15m

1.14. Simpson Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Trad climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Marge	5.6 G	Trad 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
5.3	★	Some Enchanted Evening	Trad 30m	1.2. Joe's Garage
5.4	★★	It's A Way of Life	Trad 20m	1.2. Joe's Garage
5.5	★★	Reindeer land	Trad 30m	1.8. Gollum's Cave
		House Sass	Sport 18m	1.11. Waterfall Wall
5.5 G		Pizza	Trad 12m	1.2. Joe's Garage
5.6	★★	Mr Clean	Trad 20m	1.1. Pyramid Wall
	★	Show me the muffin	Sport 15m	1.3. Upper Tier
	★★	The Light Fandango	Trad 70m	1.5. Lower Dawn
	★★★	Whiter Shade of Pale	Trad 30m	1.6. Upper Dawn
	★★	Reindeer land w/Steve's overhang	Trad 30m	1.8. Gollum's Cave
5.6 G		Jack in a Box	Trad 12m	1.2. Joe's Garage
		To save the princess	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
	★★	Marge	Trad 30m	1.14. Simpson Wall
5.6 PG	★★	Sparky start	Trad 30m	1.4. Gallery
5.6 R		Anything for 50 Bucks	Trad 22m	1.2. Joe's Garage
5.6 X		One More For The Road	Trad 24m	1.1. Pyramid Wall
5.7	★★	About a Rope	Trad 30m	1.1. Pyramid Wall
		Incognito	Mixed trad 30m, 1	1.1. Pyramid Wall
	★	Pass the moonshine	Trad 25m	1.1. Pyramid Wall
	★★★	Mammalian Protuberances	Trad 20m	1.2. Joe's Garage
	★★★	Snakepeel	Trad 25m	1.2. Joe's Garage
		The Dyke Route	Trad 24m	1.5. Lower Dawn
		The Ogre	Trad 26m	1.6. Upper Dawn
	★	Goo-Ni-Goo-Goo	Sport 24m	1.11. Waterfall Wall
	★	Dash of Fall Memory	Trad 15m	1.13. King Arthur's Playground
	★★	Salt 'n' Pepper	Trad 30m	1.13. King Arthur's Playground
5.7 G	★★	Adventure pedestre	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
		Wile E. Coyote	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
5.7 PG		Cherry Garcia	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
5.7 R	★★	Cheekbone corner	Trad 100m, 4	1.9. Cheekbone Corner
5.8	★★	Spiderman	Trad 20m	1.1. Pyramid Wall
	★★	Sweet Potato Pie	Trad 30m	1.1. Pyramid Wall
	★★	Astroboy	Trad 20m	1.2. Joe's Garage
	★★★	Think Pure Thoughts	Trad 30m	1.2. Joe's Garage
	★★	Yosemite Sam	Trad 15m	1.3. Upper Tier
	★★★	Waterwalk	Trad 45m	1.4. Gallery
	★★★	The Smoking Crack	Trad 30m	1.12. Minkey Wall
	★★★	5.8 for Style	Trad 30m	1.13. King Arthur's Playground
5.8 G	★★	Steal your face	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
	★★★	Comrades in Springfield	Trad 25m	1.5. Lower Dawn
	★★	Lichen Cream Cheese	Trad 20m	1.5. Lower Dawn
5.8 PG		Shredded Wheat	Mixed trad 15m, 1	1.2. Joe's Garage
5.8 PG13		Puff the Magic Dragon	Trad 30m	1.1. Pyramid Wall
		Partners in Crime	Trad 20m	1.5. Lower Dawn
5.9	★★★	Astroboy Direct	Trad 20m	1.2. Joe's Garage
	★★★	DDT	Trad 30m	1.2. Joe's Garage
	★★★	Menage A Trois	Trad 90m	1.2. Joe's Garage
		Evil	Sport 25m	1.3. Upper Tier
	★★★	Monsieur Torpedo	Sport 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
	★★★	Dynamic Duo	Trad 20m	1.6. Upper Dawn
	★★★	Rockstar	Trad 30m	1.7. Amphitheatre
		Dry Spell	Sport 23m, 6	1.11. Waterfall Wall
	★	Drytoolers Will be Prosecuted	Sport 29m	1.11. Waterfall Wall
		Waterfall Layback	Trad 32m	1.11. Waterfall Wall
	★★★	A Warm and Sultry Evening	Trad 30m	1.12. Minkey Wall
5.9 G		Bugs bunny	Sport 15m	1.3. Upper Tier
	★	The Talamasca	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
5.9 PG	★	Pas de deux	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
5.9 PG13	★★	Sarcophagus	Mixed trad 15m, 2	1.1. Pyramid Wall
5.10a		Reincarnation	Trad 12m	1.1. Pyramid Wall
	★★★	Telefunken U-47	Mixed trad 35m, 5	1.2. Joe's Garage
	★★	Most Unprecedented	Sport 25m	1.3. Upper Tier
	★★★	The Pink Panther	Trad 30m	1.12. Minkey Wall
5.10a G	★★	D-day	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
		Prairie-wolf	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
		The tango	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
	★★★	The waltz	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
5.10a PG13		Trundle Flakes	Mixed trad 23m, 1	1.1. Pyramid Wall
		Up Rope	Mixed trad 26m, 1	1.11. Waterfall Wall
5.10b	★★★	Catholic Girls	Trad 30m	1.2. Joe's Garage
	★★★	Sticky Fingers	Mixed trad 25m, 1	1.2. Joe's Garage
		Olockitolot	Sport 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
5.10b G		The great balancing act	Trad 15m	1.3. Upper Tier
	★	Witches	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
5.10c		FiS	Trad 17m	1.5. Lower Dawn
	★	Ziggy Piggy	Trad 25m	1.6. Upper Dawn
5.10c G		Ruffus	Trad 15m	1.3. Upper Tier
	★	Tweety bird	Trad 15m	1.3. Upper Tier
5.10c PG13		Mijlner	Trad 24m	1.7. Amphitheatre
		Waterfall Arête	Trad 30m	1.11. Waterfall Wall
5.10		La Peur	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
5.10d		Finger the mono shorty	Sport 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
5.10+	★★★	Gumby Roof	Trad 30m	1.2. Joe's Garage
		DoB	Mixed trad 17m, 1	1.5. Lower Dawn
5.11a		Dawn cherry	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
		Hole in my pocket	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
		Flight of the Valkyries	Trad 30m	1.7. Amphitheatre
5.11a G	★	Be still my bleeding heart	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
		Feathers	Sport 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
5.11a R		Taz	Trad 15m	1.3. Upper Tier
5.11b	★★★	Bone Machine	Sport 30m, 6	1.2. Joe's Garage
		La derniere tentation	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
		Rock Jock	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
5.11c	★★★	Montezuma's Revenge	Mixed trad 15m, 2	1.1. Pyramid Wall
	★★★	Evolution	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
		Slippery when Wet	Trad 32m	1.11. Waterfall Wall
5.11d	★★★	The Central Scrutinizer	Mixed trad 25m, 4	1.2. Joe's Garage
		L'ange qui saigne des plumes	Sport 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
		Tipsy	Mixed trad 17m, 4	1.5. Lower Dawn
5.12a		Le miel est plus doux que le sang	Trad 20m	1.3. Upper Tier
		Sheet of Glass	Sport 15m	1.5. Lower Dawn
5.12a PG		Lithium crystals	Trad 15m	1.3. Upper Tier
5.12b	★★	Baby Face	Sport 25m	1.5. Lower Dawn
5.13a	★★★	Serenity	Sport 20m	1.5. Lower Dawn
		Orpheus	Mixed trad 30m, 5	1.7. Amphitheatre
5.13b		Ragnarok	Mixed trad 32m, 13	1.7. Amphitheatre