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Table of contents

1. Mogote del Valle 146 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.727193, 22.623749

1.1. Campismo Area 9 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pantalones Apretaos 5Unknown
2 Vaca y Poyitos 6aUnknown
3 Cuenta Con La Pelona 6b+Unknown 110m
4 Colombia y El Caiman del Caribe 6bUnknown 120m
5 Makandal 6a+Unknown 35m
6 Madam Bruchenca 7cUnknown
7 Naufrajio 6c+Unknown
8 Titanic 6c+Unknown 30m
9 Tarzan 6b+Unknown 35m

1.2. Jaguayana 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Arco de Josué 6b+Unknown 25m
2 Aserejé 6a+Unknown
3 Rastra Crack 6bUnknown
4 Dulce Coco 6cUnknown 30m
5 Katja Me Punza 7aUnknown
6 El Salto de la Pelúa 7aUnknown
7 Ana Banana 6cUnknown 23m
8 Pikin 6b+Unknown 22m
9 Bititi 6bUnknown
10 Tiburón Siguato 6cUnknown
11 Tacto Rectal 7a+Unknown
12 Miseria Prieta 7bUnknown

1.3. Cueva Larga 27 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.729734, 22.616771

1.3.1. Left Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

This is the wall on the left as you enter the cave. Several routes are "outside" the cave (ie. on or before the large boulder/chockstone).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unknown 5

Climb the second line of bolts back from the boulder/chockstone. Follows a crack system which widens towards the top. Rock can be sharp. The last few metres are a little blank.

5Sport 15m
2 Unknown 5+

Just to the right of the Unknown 5, before the boulder/chockstone. Climb fairly juggy holds straight up, past the root system of a tree (watch out for poison ivy growing amongst the roots!).

5+Sport 15m
3 La Via Mas Facil en Cuba 3+Trad 15m
4 *** Disneylandia

At cave entrance, climb onto the boulder/chockstone. Follow tufa to anchors.

FA: Josué Millo & Alison Andur, 2002

4+Sport 15m
5 *** Mambises y Maulets

The first route on the left wall after entering the cave. Start two metres from the downclimb and head straight up to the ledge with trees on it (anchors behind). Holds are small and footwork is precise. Crux is just below the ledge.

FA: Eduard Viana & Carlos Pinela, 2001

6b+Sport 30m, 12
6 Calzo de Guagua 7aSport 30m
7 Don Cojete de la Mancha 8aSport 30m
8 *** Amigos en el Tope, Ahora y Siempre 7cUnknown 30m, 14
9 Maybe 7aSport 30m
10 *** Contra la Espada y la Pared 7a+Sport 30m
11 Ocucta Obsessión

Climbs the slightly overhanging but juggy area to the left of On Belay Hombre. The first bolts can be hard to see (torch or local knowledge useful). Watch out for the smelly bat cave as you clip the anchors. (Note: Guidebook gives 6c, but locals are adamant that it’s 6b.)

FA: Eduard Viana & Carlos Pinela, 2001

6cSport 27m
12 On Belay Hombre 7aSport
13 *** Leche de Mipalo 6c+Sport 30m

1.3.2. Right Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

This is the wall on the right as you enter the cave

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Por Arriba del Bolt

FA: Josué Millo, 2002

7bSport 14m
2 Alcohólicos sin Fronteras

FA: Anibal Fernández, 2005

6a+Sport 15m
3 ** Pelos de Rubia

FA: Josué Millo, 2002

6aSport 15m
4 Baja y Chupa

FA: David Brasco, 2001

6cSport 25m
5 Tetas Mediterráneas (a.k.a. Esperando Para Vity)

FA: Vitalio Echazábal, 2001

6b+Sport 30m, 15
6 *** Chipojo

The first route established at this crag. Climb the first big column to a ledge, then follow the easy ramp left for a bit, before topping out straight up. 2-3 long draws nice for below the anchor.

Bolts with shackles (one worn and supplemented with a biner).

FA: Aníbal Fernández & Fernando Paulete, 2001

6aSport 30m, 14
7 Papi

FA: 2004

6bSport
8 *** Chipojito

Climb the second big column toward the ledge, trending right before you reach it. Once on the ledge, top out as for Chipojo. Long draws or a bit of back cleaning before the ledge will reduce drag.

6aSport 30m, 13
9 *** Contigo en la Distancia

FA: 2002

7bSport 27m, 8
10 Fernando's Hide-a-Way

P1- 5 - 10m, 5 bolts – Sometimes called La Cuevita because of the small cave. Climb to the small cave and ledge. The cave is called Cueva Lechuza and has good views of the valley. P2- 6c – 20m, 6 bolts – trend left P3- 5 – 15m, 5 bolts – Best if linked with pitch 2. Watch out for wasps behind… Overall, best done if the leader is lowered back to the second anchor and belays the second up the whole route, before being lowered back to the second anchor. Abseil from second anchor to ground.

FA: Fernando Paulete, 2001

6c+Sport 45m
11 *** Jerry y Mirol

FA: 2002

7a+Sport 27m, 8
12 Pelos en La Orira 6b+Sport 15m
13 Hilo Dental 6b+Sport 15m
14 Unknown 3 6a+Unknown

1.4. Yunta Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Yunta 4Unknown 14m
2 Jardinero 5Unknown 30m
3 Negrita 6aUnknown 30m

1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall 21 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.720869, 22.619278

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ostraman 6aUnknown 45m
2 Unknown bolted 'corner' Unknown
3 Béjuco Colorado 7a+Unknown 30m
4 Unknown DS to L flake Unknown
5 Unknown black wall to tip of L flake Unknown
6 Polvo Piojillo 6cUnknown 30m
7 Carcharodón 7bUnknown 30m
8 Ranas Pelúas 6c+Unknown 30m
9 El Fantasma de la Ópera 6aUnknown 30m
10 La Vida es Bella 7aUnknown 30m
11 Unknown 1 6bUnknown
12 Unknown 2 7a+Unknown
13 Unknown 3 6aUnknown
14 Unknown 4 7bUnknown
15 Unknown 5 Unknown
16 Avispicidio 6bUnknown 25m
17 Malaje 6c+Unknown 25m
18 Una Larga Amistad Con Dos Bolas de Cariño 6bUnknown 25m
19 Mis Dos Spits 6c+Unknown 30m
20 Medio Bandido 7b+Unknown 30m
21 Fire Down Below 4Unknown

1.6. Milenio Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.718100, 22.623965

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Guao, Guano, y Espina 6a+Unknown 80m
2 Clases de Fisuras 6bUnknown 10m
3 Living La Via Loco 7aUnknown 30m
4 Milenio 7a+Unknown 60m
5 Amulatazo Limpio 7aUnknown 30m
6 Huevos Verde con Jamon 6c+Unknown 60m
7 Huevos Verde con Jamon pitch 1 6b+Unknown 30m
8 Papito 8aUnknown 30m

1.7. Ensenada de Raúl 24 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: -83.719791, 22.624802

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unknown 1 Unknown 20m
2 *** Pitu 6aSport 20m
3 Unknown 2 Unknown 20m
4 El Puso El Bolt 4Unknown 30m
5 Ojos Carmelitas 5Unknown 30m
6 El Repaso 4Unknown 28m
7 Guides Route 4Unknown 12m
8 Dos Palmas 5Unknown 15m
9 Cuerpo Colorado 5Unknown 6m
10 Eternos Jovenos 4Unknown 21m
11 Torre Blanco 5Unknown 15m
12 Freebies 4Unknown
13 Filo de Cuchilla 6aUnknown 50m
14 Hara Kiri 6a+Unknown

1.7.1. Muralla Pitu 0 routes in Cliff

1.7.2. Punta Repaso 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This is the obvious white wall on the left as you enter the Ensenada. Vertical climbing and morning sun.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** El Puso el Bolt 4+Sport 30m
2 *** Ojos Carmelitas

FA: Neil Gresham, 2002

5+Sport 25m
3 *** El Repaso

FA: Vitalio Echazábal, 2001

5Sport 30m

1.7.3. Torre Blanca 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This cliff is hidden behind the trees on the right as you enter the Ensenada. Locating climbs can be a bit confusing, and the guidebook may have one or two in the wrong order…

A good crag for all day shade.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Torre Blanca

Climb the light grey pillar on the left of the cliff. The route finishes behind the top of the pillar, but one bolt was missing from the anchor – if still the case, rap off another route’s anchor on the left side of the pillar.

FA: David Ryan & Paul Tichner, 2000

5+Sport 15m, 4
2 ** Torrenado 5+Sport 14m
3 *** Eternos Jovenes 4+Sport 21m, 4
4 *** Psychologia Infantil 5+Sport 12m
5 *** En la Sombrita 4+Sport 12m
6 *** Otra Pasta

Climb straight up starting to the right of the ficus tree.

FA: Yarobys Garcia & Josué Millo, 2004

5Sport 17m
7 *** Invernando

Start at the base of Otra Pasta and move right up into the offwidth crack. You can either climb in the crack, or use the face to the outside.

FA: Invernando, 2004

6a+Sport 15m

1.7.4. Punta Lider 0 routes in Cliff

1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca 29 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.716762, 22.625675

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Saca Chispas 7a+Unknown 15m
2 Wasp Factory 7bUnknown 25m
3 The Colony 8a+Unknown 30m
4 Esplendidos 8aUnknown 25m
5 The One Inch Punch 8bUnknown 30m
6 La Mierda 6b+Unknown
7 The Beach 7a+Unknown
8 Chimeneando 6b+Unknown 25m
9 Totisnao 6b+Unknown 25m
10 A Martillazo Limpio 7aUnknown 30m
11 Quien Dijo Miedo Habiendo Hospitales? 7a+Unknown 28m
12 RM 6aUnknown 25m
13 Puro Cubano pitch 1 6b+Unknown 25m
14 Puro Cubano 6c+Unknown 35m
15 Puro Cubano pitch 1 RHV 6b+Unknown 25m
16 Misericorida por Dios 7bUnknown 15m
17 Unknown 1 on L of cave Unknown 7m
18 Unknown 2 on L of cave Unknown 7m
19 Unknown 3 on L of cave Unknown 7m
20 Unknown 4 on L of cave Unknown 7m
21 Unknown 1 on R of cave Unknown 7m
22 Unknown 2 on R of cave Unknown 7m
23 Unknown 3 on R of cave Unknown 7m
24 Unknown 4 on R of cave Unknown 7m
25 Taking the Bull by the Horn 6cUnknown 5m
26 Malanga Hasta La Muerte 7c+Unknown 15m
27 La Cuchillita 6aUnknown 28m
28 Guajiros 6b+Unknown 30m
29 Guajiras 6cUnknown 30m

1.9. Vega de Crespo 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.720613, 22.628554

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Calentando Baterias 6aUnknown 25m
2 Chan Chan de Ilusiones 6cUnknown 25m
3 Tarentola 6a+Unknown 28m
4 Romeo y Regleta 7b+Unknown 28m
5 Guajiro Natural 6b+Unknown 25m
6 Unknown black streak Unknown
7 Unknown just L of tufa 6b+Unknown 20m
8 Melodia Celestial 6cUnknown
9 Unknown 1 Unknown
10 Unknown 2 Unknown
11 Unknown 3 Unknown
12 Unknown 4 Unknown
13 Unknown 5 Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 Yunta Unknown 14m 1.4. Yunta Wall
Fire Down Below Unknown 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
El Puso El Bolt Unknown 30m 1.7. Ensenada de Raúl
El Repaso Unknown 28m 1.7. Ensenada de Raúl
Eternos Jovenos Unknown 21m 1.7. Ensenada de Raúl
Freebies Unknown 1.7. Ensenada de Raúl
Guides Route Unknown 12m 1.7. Ensenada de Raúl
5 Pantalones Apretaos Unknown 1.1. Campismo Area
Jardinero Unknown 30m 1.4. Yunta Wall
Cuerpo Colorado Unknown 6m 1.7. Ensenada de Raúl
Dos Palmas Unknown 15m 1.7. Ensenada de Raúl
Ojos Carmelitas Unknown 30m 1.7. Ensenada de Raúl
Torre Blanco Unknown 15m 1.7. Ensenada de Raúl
3+ La Via Mas Facil en Cuba Trad 15m 1.3.1. Left Wall
4+ *** Disneylandia Sport 15m 1.3.1. Left Wall
** El Puso el Bolt Sport 30m 1.7.2. Punta Repaso
*** En la Sombrita Sport 12m 1.7.3. Torre Blanca
*** Eternos Jovenes Sport 21m, 4 1.7.3. Torre Blanca
5 Unknown 5 Sport 15m 1.3.1. Left Wall
*** El Repaso Sport 30m 1.7.2. Punta Repaso
*** Otra Pasta Sport 17m 1.7.3. Torre Blanca
5+ Unknown 5+ Sport 15m 1.3.1. Left Wall
*** Ojos Carmelitas Sport 25m 1.7.2. Punta Repaso
*** Psychologia Infantil Sport 12m 1.7.3. Torre Blanca
*** Torre Blanca Sport 15m, 4 1.7.3. Torre Blanca
** Torrenado Sport 14m 1.7.3. Torre Blanca
6a Vaca y Poyitos Unknown 1.1. Campismo Area
*** Chipojito Sport 30m, 13 1.3.2. Right Wall
*** Chipojo Sport 30m, 14 1.3.2. Right Wall
** Pelos de Rubia Sport 15m 1.3.2. Right Wall
Negrita Unknown 30m 1.4. Yunta Wall
El Fantasma de la Ópera Unknown 30m 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Ostraman Unknown 45m 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Unknown 3 Unknown 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Filo de Cuchilla Unknown 50m 1.7. Ensenada de Raúl
*** Pitu Sport 20m 1.7. Ensenada de Raúl
La Cuchillita Unknown 28m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
RM Unknown 25m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Calentando Baterias Unknown 25m 1.9. Vega de Crespo
6a+ Makandal Unknown 35m 1.1. Campismo Area
Aserejé Unknown 1.2. Jaguayana
Alcohólicos sin Fronteras Sport 15m 1.3.2. Right Wall
Unknown 3 Unknown 1.3.2. Right Wall
Guao, Guano, y Espina Unknown 80m 1.6. Milenio Wall
Hara Kiri Unknown 1.7. Ensenada de Raúl
*** Invernando Sport 15m 1.7.3. Torre Blanca
Tarentola Unknown 28m 1.9. Vega de Crespo
6b Colombia y El Caiman del Caribe Unknown 120m 1.1. Campismo Area
Bititi Unknown 1.2. Jaguayana
Rastra Crack Unknown 1.2. Jaguayana
Papi Sport 1.3.2. Right Wall
Avispicidio Unknown 25m 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Una Larga Amistad Con Dos Bolas de Cariño Unknown 25m 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Unknown 1 Unknown 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Clases de Fisuras Unknown 10m 1.6. Milenio Wall
6b+ Cuenta Con La Pelona Unknown 110m 1.1. Campismo Area
Tarzan Unknown 35m 1.1. Campismo Area
Arco de Josué Unknown 25m 1.2. Jaguayana
Pikin Unknown 22m 1.2. Jaguayana
*** Mambises y Maulets Sport 30m, 12 1.3.1. Left Wall
Hilo Dental Sport 15m 1.3.2. Right Wall
Pelos en La Orira Sport 15m 1.3.2. Right Wall
Tetas Mediterráneas (a.k.a. Esperando Para Vity) Sport 30m, 15 1.3.2. Right Wall
Huevos Verde con Jamon pitch 1 Unknown 30m 1.6. Milenio Wall
Chimeneando Unknown 25m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Guajiros Unknown 30m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
La Mierda Unknown 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Puro Cubano pitch 1 Unknown 25m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Puro Cubano pitch 1 RHV Unknown 25m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Totisnao Unknown 25m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Guajiro Natural Unknown 25m 1.9. Vega de Crespo
Unknown just L of tufa Unknown 20m 1.9. Vega de Crespo
6c Ana Banana Unknown 23m 1.2. Jaguayana
Dulce Coco Unknown 30m 1.2. Jaguayana
Tiburón Siguato Unknown 1.2. Jaguayana
Ocucta Obsessión Sport 27m 1.3.1. Left Wall
Baja y Chupa Sport 25m 1.3.2. Right Wall
Polvo Piojillo Unknown 30m 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Guajiras Unknown 30m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Taking the Bull by the Horn Unknown 5m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Chan Chan de Ilusiones Unknown 25m 1.9. Vega de Crespo
Melodia Celestial Unknown 1.9. Vega de Crespo
6c+ Naufrajio Unknown 1.1. Campismo Area
Titanic Unknown 30m 1.1. Campismo Area
*** Leche de Mipalo Sport 30m 1.3.1. Left Wall
Fernando's Hide-a-Way Sport 45m 1.3.2. Right Wall
Malaje Unknown 25m 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Mis Dos Spits Unknown 30m 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Ranas Pelúas Unknown 30m 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Huevos Verde con Jamon Unknown 60m 1.6. Milenio Wall
Puro Cubano Unknown 35m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
7a El Salto de la Pelúa Unknown 1.2. Jaguayana
Katja Me Punza Unknown 1.2. Jaguayana
Calzo de Guagua Sport 30m 1.3.1. Left Wall
Maybe Sport 30m 1.3.1. Left Wall
On Belay Hombre Sport 1.3.1. Left Wall
La Vida es Bella Unknown 30m 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Amulatazo Limpio Unknown 30m 1.6. Milenio Wall
Living La Via Loco Unknown 30m 1.6. Milenio Wall
A Martillazo Limpio Unknown 30m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
7a+ Tacto Rectal Unknown 1.2. Jaguayana
*** Contra la Espada y la Pared Sport 30m 1.3.1. Left Wall
*** Jerry y Mirol Sport 27m, 8 1.3.2. Right Wall
Béjuco Colorado Unknown 30m 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Unknown 2 Unknown 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Milenio Unknown 60m 1.6. Milenio Wall
Quien Dijo Miedo Habiendo Hospitales? Unknown 28m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Saca Chispas Unknown 15m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
The Beach Unknown 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
7b Miseria Prieta Unknown 1.2. Jaguayana
*** Contigo en la Distancia Sport 27m, 8 1.3.2. Right Wall
** Por Arriba del Bolt Sport 14m 1.3.2. Right Wall
Carcharodón Unknown 30m 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Unknown 4 Unknown 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Misericorida por Dios Unknown 15m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Wasp Factory Unknown 25m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
7b+ Medio Bandido Unknown 30m 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Romeo y Regleta Unknown 28m 1.9. Vega de Crespo
7c Madam Bruchenca Unknown 1.1. Campismo Area
*** Amigos en el Tope, Ahora y Siempre Unknown 30m, 14 1.3.1. Left Wall
7c+ Malanga Hasta La Muerte Unknown 15m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
8a Don Cojete de la Mancha Sport 30m 1.3.1. Left Wall
Papito Unknown 30m 1.6. Milenio Wall
Esplendidos Unknown 25m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
8a+ The Colony Unknown 30m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
8b The One Inch Punch Unknown 30m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
? Unknown 5 Unknown 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Unknown DS to L flake Unknown 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Unknown black wall to tip of L flake Unknown 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Unknown bolted 'corner' Unknown 1.5. Guajiro Ecológico Wall
Unknown 1 Unknown 20m 1.7. Ensenada de Raúl
Unknown 2 Unknown 20m 1.7. Ensenada de Raúl
Unknown 1 on L of cave Unknown 7m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Unknown 1 on R of cave Unknown 7m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Unknown 2 on L of cave Unknown 7m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Unknown 2 on R of cave Unknown 7m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Unknown 3 on L of cave Unknown 7m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Unknown 3 on R of cave Unknown 7m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Unknown 4 on L of cave Unknown 7m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Unknown 4 on R of cave Unknown 7m 1.8. Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Unknown 1 Unknown 1.9. Vega de Crespo
Unknown 2 Unknown 1.9. Vega de Crespo
Unknown 3 Unknown 1.9. Vega de Crespo
Unknown 4 Unknown 1.9. Vega de Crespo
Unknown 5 Unknown 1.9. Vega de Crespo
Unknown black streak Unknown 1.9. Vega de Crespo