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Table of contents

1. Cueva Larga 28 routes in Area

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.729734, 22.616771

1.1. Left Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

This is the wall on the left as you enter the cave. Several routes are "outside" the cave (ie. on or before the large boulder/chockstone).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unknown 5

Climb the second line of bolts back from the boulder/chockstone. Follows a crack system which widens towards the top. Rock can be sharp. The last few metres are a little blank.

5 Sport 15m
2 Unknown 5+

Just to the right of the Unknown 5, before the boulder/chockstone. Climb fairly juggy holds straight up, past the root system of a tree (watch out for poison ivy growing amongst the roots!).

5+ Sport 15m
3 La Via Mas Facil en Cuba 3+ Trad 15m
4 *** Disneylandia

At cave entrance, climb onto the boulder/chockstone. Follow tufa to anchors.

FA: Josué Millo & Alison Andur, 2002

4+ Sport 15m
5 *** Mambises y Maulets

The first route on the left wall after entering the cave. Start two metres from the downclimb and head straight up to the ledge with trees on it (anchors behind). Holds are small and footwork is precise. Crux is just below the ledge.

FA: Eduard Viana & Carlos Pinela, 2001

FR:6b+ Sport 30m, 12
6 Calzo de Guagua FR:7a Sport 30m
7 Don Cojete de la Mancha FR:8a Sport 30m
8 *** Amigos en el Tope, Ahora y Siempre FR:7c Unknown 30m, 14
9 Maybe FR:7a Sport 30m
10 *** Contra la Espada y la Pared FR:7a+ Sport 30m
11 Ocucta Obsessión

Climbs the slightly overhanging but juggy area to the left of On Belay Hombre. The first bolts can be hard to see (torch or local knowledge useful). Watch out for the smelly bat cave as you clip the anchors. (Note: Guidebook gives 6c, but locals are adamant that it’s 6b.)

FA: Eduard Viana & Carlos Pinela, 2001

6c Sport 27m
12 On Belay Hombre FR:7a Sport
13 *** Leche de Mipalo FR:6c+ Sport 30m

1.2. Right Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

This is the wall on the right as you enter the cave

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Por Arriba del Bolt

FA: Josué Millo, 2002

FR:7b Sport 14m
2 Alcohólicos sin Fronteras

FA: Anibal Fernández, 2005

FR:6a+ Sport 15m
3 ** Pelos de Rubia

FA: Josué Millo, 2002

FR:6a Sport 15m
4 Baja y Chupa

FA: David Brasco, 2001

FR:6c Sport 25m
5 Tetas Mediterráneas (a.k.a. Esperando Para Vity)

Climb the obvious, rounded protrusions up the steep wall on the right hand side interior of cave. take AT LEAST 15 draws

FA: Vitalio Echazábal, 2001

FR:6b+ Sport 30m, 15
6 *** Chipojo

The first route established at this crag. Climb the first big column to a ledge, then follow the easy ramp left for a bit, before topping out straight up. 2-3 long draws nice for below the anchor.

Bolts with shackles (one worn and supplemented with a biner).

FA: Aníbal Fernández & Fernando Paulete, 2001

FR:6a Sport 30m, 14
7 Papi

FA: 2004

FR:6b Sport
8 *** Chipojito

Climb the second big column toward the ledge, trending right before you reach it. Once on the ledge, top out as for Chipojo. Long draws or a bit of back cleaning before the ledge will reduce drag.

FR:6a Sport 30m, 13
9 *** Contigo en la Distancia

FA: 2002

FR:7b Sport 27m, 8
10 Fernando's Hide-a-Way

P1- 5 - 10m, 5 bolts – Sometimes called La Cuevita because of the small cave. Climb to the small cave and ledge. The cave is called Cueva Lechuza and has good views of the valley. P2- 6c – 20m, 6 bolts – trend left P3- 5 – 15m, 5 bolts – Best if linked with pitch 2. Watch out for wasps behind… Overall, best done if the leader is lowered back to the second anchor and belays the second up the whole route, before being lowered back to the second anchor. Abseil from second anchor to ground.

FA: Fernando Paulete, 2001

FR:6c+ Sport 45m 3
11 *** Jerry y Mirol

FA: 2002

FR:7a+ Sport 27m, 8
12 Pelos en La Orira FR:6b+ Sport 15m
13 Hilo Dental FR:6b+ Sport 15m
14 Unknown 3 FR:6a+ Unknown

1.3. cave entrance 1 route in Unknown

All Sport

easy climbs at entrace of cave

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** La Via Mas Facil De Cuba

Easiest climb in Cuba, but still fun. Starts outside cave entrance, head up sharp rock on left wall. Has been well bolted since the guide book was published in 2005.

FA: David Ryan,Armando Menocal, 2001

3+ Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3+ La Via Mas Facil en Cuba Trad 15m 1.1. Left Wall
** La Via Mas Facil De Cuba Sport 15m 1.3. cave entrance
4+ *** Disneylandia Sport 15m 1.1. Left Wall
5 Unknown 5 Sport 15m 1.1. Left Wall
5+ Unknown 5+ Sport 15m 1.1. Left Wall
6a *** Chipojito Sport 30m, 13 1.2. Right Wall
*** Chipojo Sport 30m, 14 1.2. Right Wall
** Pelos de Rubia Sport 15m 1.2. Right Wall
6a+ Alcohólicos sin Fronteras Sport 15m 1.2. Right Wall
Unknown 3 Unknown 1.2. Right Wall
6b Papi Sport 1.2. Right Wall
6b+ *** Mambises y Maulets Sport 30m, 12 1.1. Left Wall
Hilo Dental Sport 15m 1.2. Right Wall
Pelos en La Orira Sport 15m 1.2. Right Wall
Tetas Mediterráneas (a.k.a. Esperando Para Vity) Sport 30m, 15 1.2. Right Wall
6c Ocucta Obsessión Sport 27m 1.1. Left Wall
Baja y Chupa Sport 25m 1.2. Right Wall
6c+ *** Leche de Mipalo Sport 30m 1.1. Left Wall
Fernando's Hide-a-Way Sport 45m 3 1.2. Right Wall
7a Calzo de Guagua Sport 30m 1.1. Left Wall
Maybe Sport 30m 1.1. Left Wall
On Belay Hombre Sport 1.1. Left Wall
7a+ *** Contra la Espada y la Pared Sport 30m 1.1. Left Wall
*** Jerry y Mirol Sport 27m, 8 1.2. Right Wall
7b *** Contigo en la Distancia Sport 27m, 8 1.2. Right Wall
** Por Arriba del Bolt Sport 14m 1.2. Right Wall
7c *** Amigos en el Tope, Ahora y Siempre Unknown 30m, 14 1.1. Left Wall
8a Don Cojete de la Mancha Sport 30m 1.1. Left Wall