Region Guide for China Mainland 中国内地

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. China Mainland 中国内地 1,253 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 103.894469, 36.495934

Description:

Qingdao

1.1. Yangshuo 阳朔 709 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 110.511157, 24.768592

Description:

Yangshuo town is located near the city of Guilin, Guanxi Province, southern China. The area is a major tourist destination and has become famous around the world with climbers because of its limestone Karst formations. With 400+ sport routes the area has become the most popular climbing destination in China.

1.1.1. Baby Frog Buttress 蝌蚪山 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

Excellent crag with a stack of low to mid range graded climbs from 5 - 6b+.

Description:

Baby Frog is a pleasant cliff located directly behind a small village near the Yu Long river. The crag offers single pitch routes graded between 5.7 and 5.11a, so it’s a great spot for climbing at the lower grades. The cliff faces south east and is shaded in the morning until around 1pm.

Access Issues:

This crag was closed for a time but has now re-opened. (Update September 2012)

1.1.2. Bamboo Grove 竹林岩 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Top Rope and Trad
Description:

The Bamboo Groove incorporates two separate cliffs, the 'North Buttress' and the 'Main Wall'.

1.1.3. Banyan Tree 大榕树 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The Banyan Tree is a pleasant crag located next to the Banyan Tree Public Park. The climbing is on three sides of a large buttress.

1.1.4. Big Gun Wall 大枪 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Big Gun Wall is a new crag that offers quality climbing at intermediate grades. Some loose rock exists so helmets are recommended. The crag is shaded in the afternoon.

1.1.5. Bird Man 禽人 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The Bird Man is a large impressive South facing cliff that contains some serious multi pitch climbs in the 5.12 range. The Bird Man consists of two sections, the Left Tower and the Right Tower. The cliff takes sun for most of the day.

1.1.6. Brave New World 新世界 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

Brave New World is a high crag containing multiple single pitch sport routes and one of the longest and best traditional multi pitch climbs in the Yangshuo area. The crag is made up of two sides, the South Face and East Face.

1.1.7. The Butterfly Spring 蝴蝶泉 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown
Description:

This crag is a large karst tower, beside the main road with a 15 meter high painted concrete butterfly on it.

1.1.8. Chicken Cave 鸡窝渡 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

As the name suggests this crag is large open cave located behind a village. The crag faces North West providing all day shade for most climbs. All routes and belay areas are sheltered from rain. Climbs on offer range from 5.4 to 5.13b.

1.1.9. Dag Crag 达格岩 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The Dag Crag is a small cliff with a handful of hard climbs and one intermediate route.

1.1.10. Dingoes Dell / Maen Tao 流浪谷 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Dingoes Dell is a crag with only 2 routes. The crag shady from mid day onwards, is conveniently located in town, directly behind a seven story apartment block.

1.1.11. Dragon River Crag 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Dragon River Crag is a small crag located around 80 meters from the Yu Long river. The crag contains only a few routes, however the upper hard pitches are on excellent rock. The crag is in the sun until late afternoon.

1.1.12. Dragons Tooth 龙牙山 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The Dragon’s Tooth is a pleasant, small east facing crag with a handful of easy short routes. Some of the anchors could do with some attention.

1.1.13. Entreprises Crag 小雷劈 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

If Lei Pi shan is busy, this crag next door offers some peace and quiet.

Description:

A short and steep crag.

Access Issues:

About 100 metres from Lei Pi Shan, towards Yangshuo. You cant miss it!

1.1.14. Golden Cat Cave 金猫洞 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.15. Golden River Side 金水岸 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Access Issues:

On the way to Moon Hill, turn left just before crossing Gongnong bridge.

1.1.16. Kiddie Crag 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Unknown
Description:

The Kiddie Crag is a small buttress located on the north side of White Mountain. A handful of routes are on offer in the easy to intermediate range and the crag can be used as a warm up venue before hitting the more physical climbs at White Mountain.

1.1.17. Lao Tie Shan 老铁山 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Lao Tie Shan is a small South-East facing crag close to town.

1.1.18. Lei Pi Shan 雷劈山 36 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Lei Pi Shan is a huge overhanging cliff located just south from the town of Gao Tian. The climbing is typically overhanging and strenuous. With the exception of a just a few climbs the routes are graded 5.11–5.14a.

1.1.19. Low Mountain Area 矮山 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

Low Mountain incorporates Low Mountain South Face and Low Mountain Western Arête. The crag offers both single and multi pitch routes. Some single pitch climbs are polished and there is loose rock on the multi pitch routes, so helmets are good idea. The left half of the south face is sheltered in the rain and all routes between “Touching the Cloth” and The Pig Emperor” stay dry even in torrential rain. All routes are in the sun from early morning until mid afternoon.

1.1.20. Moon Hill 月亮山 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Moon Hill is considered one of Chinas premier crags and one of Yangshuo’s most visited tourist attractions. This impressive moon shape karst formation has an elevation of approximately 380 meters offering spectacular views of the surrounding area. The routes are predominantly overhanging requiring both power and endurance. The climbs are mostly in the shade all day and many remain dry during rain. Moon Hill is located in a tourist park (entry fee applies) and access to the crag is via 800 plus steps.

1.1.21. Odin's Den 奥丁洞 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Odin's Den is the large cave seen above the path leading up to Moon Hill.

1.1.22. Silver Cave 银子岩 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.23. Space Buttress 太空站 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Space Buttress is a large cliff with a good variety of easy to intermediate graded climbs. A big overhanging wall located on the left side of the cliff offers a few harder climbs in the 5.12/13 range. The cliff is shaded in the morning and comes into full sun after 1pm.

1.1.24. Swiss Cheese Wall 瑞士奶酪 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Swiss Cheese Wall is nice little crag that as of mid 2011 comprises two sectors offering single pitch climbs over a wide grade range. Bamboo stands located at the base of the crag offer all day shade for belaying and relaxing in a pleasant atmosphere. The original Right Hand Wall has climbs in the lower to intermediate grades and is riddled with holes and scars and is aptly named Swiss Cheese because of its distinctive appearance. The recently developed Left Hand Wall provides more difficult, thin, fingery climbs on a vertical wall. The crag is however very popular with the climbing schools and can at times resemble West Street.

1.1.25. Riverside 狮龙山 27 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.26. The Camels Head 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The Camels Head crag currently only contains 2 easier routes. The cliff faces east and is shaded in the afternoon.

1.1.27. The Cyclops Wall 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.28. The Egg 鸡蛋山 57 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The Egg is probably the most popular crag in Yangshuo and for good reasons. There are at least 37 routes on high quality rock with grades ranging from 5.7 to 5.12b. The climbs are mostly single pitch with a few multi pitch routes as well. The crag incorporates the East Face, North East Face, North Face and West Face. Because The Egg faces three sides it is possible to climb in either the sun or shade at any time of the day. The North and West faces stay mostly dry in the rain.

1.1.29. The Great Wall 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The Great Wall is a massive limestone cliff located approximately 45 minutes drive North West of Yangshuo. This impressive cliff is located deep in the countryside, is situated high up on a hill and offers spectacular views of the surrounding landscape. The crag is north facing and is in the shade all day until late in the afternoon. Climbs on offer include multi and single pitch routes. The crag sees little traffic and there is some loose rock so helmets are recommended. The cliff is relatively remote with a mountain like feel about it, so it’s more suited to competent experienced climbers.

1.1.30. The Middle Finger 中指峰 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

The Middle Finger is an imposing tower consisting of the North Face and South Face. The climbs on the North Face are in the shade until evening whilst the other routes are in the shade till noon.

1.1.31. The Promised Land 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

The Promised Land is located on the opposite side of the road from the Butterfly Spring.

1.1.32. The Screaming Mountain Turtle 尖叫峰 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

A large tower with one multi pitch route that is shaded in the late afternoon.

1.1.33. The White Cliff 白岩 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The White Cliff is a pleasant crag located in the countryside near the Yu Long river. The White Cliff crag consists of three areas, South West Face, North West Face and Car Park Face. The routes on the South West Face are on excellent rock, whilst some routes on the North West Face may contain some loose rock. The South West Face stays in shade until mid day, the North West Face is shaded until late in the day and the Car Park Face has afternoon shade.

1.1.34. Thumb Peak 拇指峰 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

Thumb Peak is a large east facing tower offering several multi pitch climbs and a handful of single pitch routes. The tower is located next to the main road making communication on multi pitch climbs a little tricky.

1.1.35. Treasure Cave 穿岩藏球 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport
Description:

Treasure Cave is a huge cavern located high up on a mountain side. The crag is always in shade and can get very cold and windy during the cooler months. Some of the climbs are dusty and the protection is sometimes dubious. The climbing itself is generally excellent.

1.1.36. Twin Gates 同门山 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad
Description:

Twin Gate incorporates Twin Gate Mountain, Twin Gate Mountain South Face and Twin Gate Mountain Western Tower. Twin Gate Mountain is the main climbing area offering excellent routes in a beautiful location amongst rice fields. The main crag is shaded in the afternoon and the river located nearby is a nice place to swim during the warmer months.

1.1.37. White Mountain 白山 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 110.477783, 24.754290

Description:

White Mountain is an impressive crag dominated by harder grade climbs. The massive wall is overhung and the climbing is both physical and sustained. The crag is South facing and is in the sun all day, however during summer some areas are in shade. The crag stays mostly dry during rain.

1.1.38. Wine Bottle 酒瓶山 35 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

Wine Bottle is a wonderful crag that offers excellent technical climbing on a beautifully featured wall.

Description:

The crag faces south and gets very hot when the sun is out.

1.1.39. Xing Ping - The Camel 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown
Description:

Xing Ping - The Camel is located near the small town of Xing Ping approximately 20 kilometers north of Yangshuo. The crag offers easy graded routes ranging from 5.7- 5.10 and is perfect for beginners or a peaceful escape to the countryside.

1.1.40. Jeremy's Jiji 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

Singular limestone pillar.

1.1.41. The Totem Pole 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Easily accessible and pleasantly situated in a quiet countryside location.

1.1.42. Wall of the Damned 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport
Description:

The Wall of the Damned is on the east side of White Mountain.

1.1.43. Dragon City 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Dragon City in a new crag developed in 2011.

1.1.44. Horse Crag 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This crag is located on the Karst just left of Treasure Cave.

1.1.45. Bamboo Cave 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

Cave climbing on spectacular limestone features.

Description:

Most of the routes are located inside a cool cave. The routes are rather adventurous, with lots of dirt and brittle holds. In time this will clean up.

1.1.46. Mini Krabi 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Mini Krabi is located about 1km west of Putao, 24km north of Yansghuo.

1.1.47. Treasure Cave - Lower Left Side 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This wall is located at the bottom of the stone steps that lead up to Treasure Cave

1.1.48. Chuan Yan 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Large cave located near Shuang Qiao village.

1.1.49. Orange Panties Wall 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Seen on left when approaching Chuan Yan.

1.2. Getu 格凸 199 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 106.255137, 25.677410

Unique Features And Strengths:

Spectacular limestone arches and walls.

Description:

Gétû Valley: To date 250 pitches have so far been opened. The climbing at Getu includes all facets, reliefs, styles and levels of difficulty, including 10 sustained multi-pitch sport routes from 120 to 250 meters, raging from 4+ to 8+. More than 15 sport climbing sectors have been established with everything from steep walls, slabs and caves featuring grades of 5a to 9a.

Access Issues:
  • Arrive in China at an international airport.

  • Continue to Guiyang, capital of Guizhou province, either by plane or train. Guiyang is a city of two million people with a national airport, a train station and a bust station.

  • From Guiyang, you can take either a bus (the bus station is near the train station) or take a taxi directly to Getu (count on about 4 to 5 hours and a cost of around 1000 rmb). By bus, there is either a direct Guiyang - Ziyun bus that passes through Anshun, or two buses (Guiyang – Anshun and Anshun – Ziyun). This takes five hours. From Ziyun, take the minibus that goes to Getu: about 45 minutes.

  • Getu is a small village at the end of a road where you'll find a national park with a symbolic arch through which the sun's rays pass. Once you get to Ziyun you will find people who know of Getu.

Approach:

All the crags in Getu are within walking distance from the main town and are generally visible from the main road. Crags that are in The Great Arch National Park will require the purchase of a visitor pass before entry into the park will be granted. Tread lightly through the local farms and villages when approaching the crags.

Ethic:

Sports Climbing

History:

Petzl RocTrip 2011 Getu guide can be downloaded from the following link:

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/petzl-roctrip/china2011

More Beta can be sourced from the following link:

http://chinarockclimber.com/?cat=19

1.2.1. Fish Crag 鱼岩 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.240534, 25.663047

Description:

Up to 35m routes with a rack of 15 draws for climbing.

Approach:

Walk up to Oliver's Crag from the road side, continue following this wide dirt road as it cuts through the hill side and farms until Fish Crag is visible on your right (the small cliff left of the untouched BIG wall). Once you are positioned directly down hill from the cliff scramble up to it through the abandon rocky farms/gardens. Vegetation in the area grows quickly so pre-existing trails may be hard to find or follow.

1.2.2. Left of Red 红岩左侧 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.243724, 25.662385

Unique Features And Strengths:

Perfect rock and excellent climbing. Arguably one of the best crags in Getu.

1.2.3. Wawan's Cave 蛙王洞 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.246742, 25.661652

Description:

Up to 30m routes with a rack of 12 draws for climbing.

Approach:

Walk up to Oliver's Crag from the road side, then follow a trail up on the left hand side of the cliff. Turn left when able to, this will lead you along the cliff line to Wawan's Cave.

1.2.4. Oliver's Crag 奥利弗岩 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.248292, 25.660033

Description:

The grading seems a bit out of whack with several routes either easier or harder than the grades suggest. The cliff remains dry during showers but very hot when the sun is out.

Approach:

The crag is located by the side of the road and is easily accessible from the town by following the main road out of town until the cliff is visible on your right.

1.2.5. Rastaman Crag 拉死它们岩 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.248830, 25.660439

Approach:

Walk up to Oliver's Crag from the road side, then follow a trail up on the left hand side of the cliff. Turn right when able to, this will lead you across the back of Oliver's Crag and down into Rastaman Crag. Rastaman Crag is situated close to the road but direct access is steep and dangerous.

1.2.6. Pussa Yan 菩萨岩 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.252436, 25.657686

Approach:

Follow the main road out of town to a bridge (opposite Oliver's Crag) that leads over the river and up into the village in front of Pussa Yan. From here walk through the village and follow a road around to the right hand side of the wall. Turn left and negotiate your way through the farms and bushes up to the base of the wall.

1.2.7. White Crag 白岩 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.251601, 25.660149

Unique Features And Strengths:

This charming little crag is composed of high-quality, pocket-covered rock. There are a number of easy to moderate routes.

1.2.8. CMDI Crags CMDI岩 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.253910, 25.659081

Approach:

Follow the main road out of town to a bridge (opposite Oliver's Crag) that leads over the river and up into the village in front of Pussa Yan. From here walk through the village and follow a road around to the right hand side of Pussa Yan. Then continue along the road a little further until you are able to scramble up towards the cliff between the two smaller CMDI crags in front of the main wall.

1.2.9. Banyang's Cave 半羊洞 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.255884, 25.660509

1.2.10. Lazy Dragon Cave 懒龙洞 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.259524, 25.673997

1.2.11. Flag Cliff 旗墙 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.268671, 25.687110

1.2.12. Buddha Cave 佛祖洞 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.268706, 25.686880

1.2.13. School Time 上课时间 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.268850, 25.686755

1.2.14. Great Arch Left Side 穿上洞左侧 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.270319, 25.686222

1.2.15. Great Arch Right Side 穿上洞右侧 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.270120, 25.685964

1.2.16. The Lower Arch 穿上洞下洞 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.267597, 25.685777

1.2.17. Miao Sword 苗族刀 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.242223, 25.694460

1.3. Beijing 北京 85 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 116.804720, 40.598944

1.3.1. Baihe 白河 64 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 116.786769, 40.597158

1.3.2. Shidu 十渡 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 115.641849, 39.626696

1.3.3. Huang Tu Liang 怀柔黄土梁 0 routes in Crag

1.3.4. Phoenix Hill 凤凰岭 0 routes in Crag

1.4. Yunnan 云南 194 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 101.550255, 24.874767

Unique Features And Strengths:

Many different types of rock, and a great place to combine rock climbing with backpacking/traveling.

Approach:

Some crags have approach times of 5 minutes, while others are closer to a half hour.

Where To Stay:

It's not necessary to camp, as every crag has nearby accommodation.

Ethic:

Climbing is mostly sport

History:

Climbing in Yunnan dates from the early 2000s.

1.4.1. Kunming 昆明 135 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 102.568547, 25.097699

Description:

With a strong (if not so large) local scene and plenty of bolting going on, Kunming is an up and coming climbing destination in Southwest China. Numerous high quality crags and great weather year round make this a place well worth visiting. Even on the coldest of days or in the heaviest of rain there is always somewhere you can climb. Recently five new crags have been developed, with new routes still going up on a weekly basis, adding to the existing climbing and offering a wide range of grades from 5a to 8b (and beyond?), there are still quite a few open projects still awaiting first ascent. Great, steep climbing out here in a part of China that is not well acquainted with English, or climbers, or foreigners. Be creative with your communication, it’s not always going to be easy. This isn’t Tonsai, and getting to the crags usually involves hopping on a local bus, however that said, most of the crags are only about 20km from town. Please be aware when visiting the new crags that in spite of the best efforts of the developers to clean the routes and make them safe, tufas do break, especially in the wet season, so wear a helmet, and don’t picnic under your mate’s project. Here at Kunming Rock we have put together all the information we have available about climbing in Kunming – we hope you will find it useful!

Approach:

Kunming is the capital and largest city in Yunnan. There is an international airport and travel is relatively easy to Dali and Liming via planes, trains and/or buses.

Where To Stay:

Many guesthouses nearby all areas

1.4.2. Da Li 大理 59 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 100.204285, 25.909072

1.4.3. Liming - Laojunshan 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

100-200 meter high walls of sandstone, Traditional Rock Climbing area in China. Crack systems here are very similar to the climbing in places like Indian Creek and the desert towers in the United States.

Description:

About five hours north of Dali and two hours from LiJiang lies the town of LiMing. The town sits on the outskirts of the LaoJun Shan National Park (老君山国家公园), which is filled with sandstone rock faces.

1.5. Guoliang & Nanping 郭亮南坪 0 routes in Crag

1.5.1. East of Guo Liang Cave 郭亮洞以东 0 routes in Crag

1.5.2. Guo Liang Cave 郭亮洞 0 routes in Crag

1.5.3. Across from Guo Liang Cave 郭亮洞对面 0 routes in Crag

1.5.4. General's Tower 将军峰 0 routes in Crag

1.5.5. Thick Slab 厚碑 0 routes in Crag

1.5.6. Bottle Cliff 瓶子墙 0 routes in Crag

1.5.7. Crevice Corner 石缝旮旯 0 routes in Crag

1.5.8. Zhuang Ao 庄凹 0 routes in Crag

1.5.9. Gate Cliff 大门墙 0 routes in Crag

1.6. Guangxi 广西 0 routes in Crag

1.6.1. Nanning 南宁 0 routes in Crag

1.6.2. Liuzhou 柳州 0 routes in Crag

1.6.3. Leye 乐业 0 routes in Crag

1.6.4. Beiliu 北流 0 routes in Crag

1.7. Zhejiang & Jiangsu 浙江江苏 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 120.255908, 30.601238

1.7.1. Ke Xiao 可笑 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Access Issues:

公共的土地

Approach:

杭州出发车行半个小时,可做在邮电路坐510公交车(大约1小时一班)到灵山风景区下,步行大约30分钟到

Where To Stay:

露营或者附近农庄住宿

1.7.2. Big Stone Gate 大石门 0 routes in Crag

1.7.3. Small Stone Gate 小石门 0 routes in Crag

1.7.4. Xin Chang 新昌城南岩场 0 routes in Crag

1.7.5. Shou Xian Gorge 武义寿仙谷 0 routes in Crag

1.7.6. Nan Gao Peak 南高峰 0 routes in Crag

1.7.7. Xian ju 仙居 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

丰富的山地资源,300米的结组线路,热情好客的当地岩友

Approach:

仙居县到白塔镇,白塔到石门样村岩壁就在村子边上,小河边

Where To Stay:

岩壁底下可以野营,也可以住农家

1.7.8. Crazy Stone 南京疯狂的石头 0 routes in Crag

1.7.9. Tian Chi Hill 苏州天池山 0 routes in Crag

1.7.10. Lion's Head 狮头岩 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Situated in a beautiful bamboo forest, high up in the mountains, with some spectacular views and excellent quality rock.

Description:

An impressive looking crag deep in the mountainous bamboo forests of Lin'an.

For more information please check out the blog of Joe Langwald, one of the developers behind this beautiful crag. Be sure to use google chrome so you can translate!

http://www.rock-lizard.org/bbs/thread-12964-1-1.html

Also, check out Climb China - an absolute must have guide book if you are thinking of coming to China to climb. You can find it here - http://www.climbchina.net/

Access Issues:

For those who do not speak any Chinese, getting to this crag may be quite troublesome, however not impossible. First of all, if you are coming from Hangzhou then you need to take a bus from the Hangzhou West Bus Station to Gao Hong (高虹) which should only cost 15 RMB and take about 2 hours.

From Gao Hong you can take a mini bus for around 60 RMB total (seats 7-9 people) and get dropped off directly at the foot of the mountain. You can arrange to meet up with the mini bus driver beforehand and she can meet you when you hop off the bus. Her number is +86 138 6800 8149.

Approach:

A steep approach in parts so be careful. The hike in takes about 30 minutes and is marked with stickers on bamboo trees. The path is well trodden so you can't really lose your way. Be sure not to damage any bamboo trees as they are part of a bamboo forest farm.

Where To Stay:

There are two guesthouses in the main village. Both are extremely modern and well equipped with wifi, hot showers, air conditioning and television. A night here will cost around 70 RMB which includes 3 meals. Beer, water and toiletries will cost more.

Call +86 159 6886 7008 to book a room.

Be sure to prepare yourself with all your own necessities as there is no shop in the village.

Ethic:
History:

This is a great example of some of the rapid crag development happening here in China. The area is only a few years old and still does have a lot of potential for more. Especially hard, multi pitch lines!

1.8. Guangdong 广东 57 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

1.8.1. Bai Yun Hill 白云山 0 routes in Crag

1.8.2. Ying Xi 英西 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Jiu Long (Nine Dragons) area of Qing Yuan County, Guangdong is a climbing area mostly developed from 2005 to 2008. The rock is typical tropical limestone, dark and quite sharp where exposed to rainfall, lighter, smoother and providing great climbing where sheltered from the elements. The area has beautiful countryside providing a pleasant and relaxed atmosphere for climbing. There are over 80 established routes in over 15 sectors/areas and development is ongoing. Do not confuse Kowloon in Qing Yuan County with Kowloon in Hong Kong.

1.8.3. Chun Wan 春湾 0 routes in Crag

1.8.4. Qing Yuan County 57 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown
Description:

The climbing was mostly developed from 2005 to 2008. The rock is typical tropical limestone – dark and quite sharp where exposed to rainfall, lighter, smoother and providing great climbing where sheltered from the elements. The area has beautiful countryside giving a pleasant and relaxed atmosphere for climbing. There are about 80 established routes in the area.

The closest place to stay to most of the climbing areas is the town of Wohng Fa. It has two or three small hotels, a supermarket, shops and some restaurants. The other place to stay is Kowloon, which is slightly bigger and better provisioned than Wohng Fa but is further from the climbing. Kowloon has two or three small hotels, some restaurants, a supermarket, a wet market and small shops. Both of these are basic rural towns with little tourism infrastructure. However, some mainland group tours come to the area to visit hot springs and take in the scenery. Tourism is growing and the facilities improve every year. Take care not to confuse Kowloon in Qing Yuan County with Kowloon in Hong Kong. Although they have the same name, they are vastly different places.

1.9. Fujian 福建 0 routes in Crag

1.9.1. Mo Xi Climbing Park 磨溪攀岩公园 0 routes in Crag

1.9.2. Luo Yuan Lin Tou Cliff 罗源县廪头岩场 0 routes in Crag

1.9.3. Chang Le Zhang Gang Cliff 长乐漳港海边岩场 0 routes in Crag

1.9.4. Ma Wei Shang Qi 马尾上歧 0 routes in Crag

1.9.5. Red Flag Canal Cliff of Xiashi in Fuqing Jingyang 福清镜洋下施红旗渠 0 routes in Crag

1.9.6. Xiashi Cliff in Fuqing Jingyang 福清镜洋下岩场 0 routes in Crag

1.9.7. MaWei MoXi 马尾磨溪 0 routes in Crag

1.10. Shandong 山东 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

1.10.1. Qingdao 青岛 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.11. Guizhou 贵州 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

1.11.1. Guiyang Government 贵阳市省政府 0 routes in Crag

1.11.2. Yang Jia Zhai 贵定县杨家寨 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.11.3. Ya Di Village 贵定县崖底村 0 routes in Crag

1.11.4. Bo Ji Zhai 都匀市簸箕寨 0 routes in Crag

1.11.5. Storm Hill 遵义风暴山 0 routes in Crag

1.12. Sichuan & Chongqing 四川重庆 0 routes in Crag

1.12.1. Shuang Qiao Valley 双桥沟 0 routes in Crag

1.12.2. Chang Ping Valley 长坪沟 0 routes in Crag

1.12.3. Jarjinjabo 扎金甲博 0 routes in Crag

1.12.4. Dao Cheng 稻城 0 routes in Crag

1.12.5. Yu Lin He 重庆御临河 0 routes in Crag

1.13. Others 其他 0 routes in Crag

1.13.1. Bo Long Ke 内蒙赤峰勃隆克 0 routes in Crag

1.13.2. Lhasa 拉萨 0 routes in Area

1.13.3. Xi Ya Valley 山西锡崖沟 0 routes in Area