Region Guide for China Mainland 中国内地

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. China Mainland 中国内地 1,715 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 103.885864, 36.507055

Description:

Qingdao

1.1. Beijing 392 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 116.804720, 40.598944

1.1.1. Baihe 272 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 116.786769, 40.597158

1.1.2. Shidu 120 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 115.641849, 39.626696

1.1.3. Huang Tu Liang 0 routes in Crag

1.1.4. Phoenix Hill 0 routes in Crag

1.2. Yunnan 194 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 101.550255, 24.874767

Unique Features And Strengths:

Many different types of rock, and a great place to combine rock climbing with backpacking/traveling.

Approach:

Some crags have approach times of 5 minutes, while others are closer to a half hour.

Where To Stay:

It's not necessary to camp, as every crag has nearby accommodation.

Ethic:

Climbing is mostly sport

History:

Climbing in Yunnan dates from the early 2000s.

1.2.1. Kunming 135 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 102.568547, 25.097699

Description:

With a strong (if not so large) local scene and plenty of bolting going on, Kunming is an up and coming climbing destination in Southwest China. Numerous high quality crags and great weather year round make this a place well worth visiting. Even on the coldest of days or in the heaviest of rain there is always somewhere you can climb. Recently five new crags have been developed, with new routes still going up on a weekly basis, adding to the existing climbing and offering a wide range of grades from 5a to 8b (and beyond?), there are still quite a few open projects still awaiting first ascent. Great, steep climbing out here in a part of China that is not well acquainted with English, or climbers, or foreigners. Be creative with your communication, it’s not always going to be easy. This isn’t Tonsai, and getting to the crags usually involves hopping on a local bus, however that said, most of the crags are only about 20km from town. Please be aware when visiting the new crags that in spite of the best efforts of the developers to clean the routes and make them safe, tufas do break, especially in the wet season, so wear a helmet, and don’t picnic under your mate’s project. Here at Kunming Rock we have put together all the information we have available about climbing in Kunming – we hope you will find it useful!

Approach:

Kunming is the capital and largest city in Yunnan. There is an international airport and travel is relatively easy to Dali and Liming via planes, trains and/or buses.

Where To Stay:

Many guesthouses nearby all areas

1.2.2. Da Li 59 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 100.204285, 25.909072

1.2.3. Liming - Laojunshan 0 routes in Region

Unique Features And Strengths:

100-200 m high walls of sandstone, Traditional Rock Climbing area in China. Crack systems here are very similar to the climbing in places like Indian Creek and the desert towers in the United States.

Description:

About five hours north of Dali and two hours from LiJiang lies the town of LiMing. The town sits on the outskirts of the LaoJun Shan National Park (老君山国家公园), which is filled with sandstone rock faces.

Route database at http://weclimb.xyz/area/liming

Ethic:

Trad climbing with some bolt anchors. FAs take a fair bit of cleaning.

1.3. Guoliang & Nanping 0 routes in Region

1.3.1. East of Guo Liang Cave 0 routes in Crag

1.3.2. Guo Liang Cave 0 routes in Crag

1.3.3. Across from Guo Liang Cave 0 routes in Crag

1.3.4. General's Tower 0 routes in Crag

1.3.5. Thick Slab 0 routes in Crag

1.3.6. Bottle Cliff 0 routes in Crag

1.3.7. Crevice Corner 0 routes in Crag

1.3.8. Zhuang Ao 0 routes in Crag

1.3.9. Gate Cliff 0 routes in Crag

1.4. Guangxi 762 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 108.708782, 23.828021

Description:

The Guangxi regiorn is the top destination for Rock Climbing in China thanks to the subarea of Yangshuo.

1.4.1. Yangshuo 762 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 110.488537, 24.749048

Description:

Yangshuo town is located near the city of Guilin, Guanxi Province, southern China. The area is a major tourist destination and has become famous around the world with climbers because of its limestone Karst formations. With 400+ sport routes the area has become the most popular climbing destination in China.

1.4.2. Nanning 0 routes in Crag

1.4.3. Liuzhou 0 routes in Crag

1.4.4. Leye 0 routes in Crag

1.4.5. Bei Liu 0 routes in Crag

1.5. Zhejiang & Jiangsu 3 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 120.255908, 30.601238

1.5.1. Ke Xiao 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Access Issues:

公共的土地

Approach:

杭州出发车行半个小时,可做在邮电路坐510公交车(大约1小时一班)到灵山风景区下,步行大约30分钟到

Where To Stay:

露营或者附近农庄住宿

1.5.2. Big Stone Gate 0 routes in Crag

1.5.3. Small Stone Gate 0 routes in Crag

1.5.4. Xin Chang 0 routes in Crag

1.5.5. Shou Xian Gorge 0 routes in Crag

1.5.6. Nan Gao Peak 0 routes in Crag

Description:

A small crag located close to Hangzhou's infamous West Lake. The area is surrounded by beautiful bushland and tea fields.

Approach:

Extremely easy to access with a short walk into the crag. Catch the 87 Bus from West Lake and ride it until Yan Xia Dong. From there you turn to the car park behind you and walk along the path into the forest until you reach a car park and a couple of little shack houses. Follow the stairs up to the right.

Walk up to the house (on your left). At the point you have a fork on the path, continue to the right for 80 meters and on your left you will see a ribbon on a tree. That’s where you need to climb to the wall to access the Qian Ren climbing routes.

To access the Nan Gao Feng routes, from the fork in the path where the house is, walk up the stairs and pollow the path up for a few hundred metres, up through the tea fields. You will walk up the path to the right, to the top of the mountain. Once here the path will turn right back into the forest. Follow this path for a few hundred metres and the Nan Goa Feng Cliff will be right there on your right. Easy!

1.5.7. Xian Ju 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

丰富的山地资源,300米的结组线路,热情好客的当地岩友

Approach:

仙居县到白塔镇,白塔到石门样村岩壁就在村子边上,小河边

Where To Stay:

岩壁底下可以野营,也可以住农家

1.5.8. Crazy Stone 0 routes in Crag

1.5.9. Tian Chi Hill 0 routes in Crag

1.5.10. Lion's Head 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Situated in a beautiful bamboo forest, high up in the mountains, with some spectacular views and excellent quality rock.

Description:

An impressive looking crag deep in the mountainous bamboo forests of Lin'an.

For more information please check out the blog of Joe Langwald, one of the developers behind this beautiful crag. Be sure to use google chrome so you can translate!

http://www.rock-lizard.org/bbs/thread-12964-1-1.html

Also, check out Climb China - an absolute must have guide book if you are thinking of coming to China to climb. You can find it here - http://www.climbchina.net/

Access Issues:

For those who do not speak any Chinese, getting to this crag may be quite troublesome, however not impossible. First of all, if you are coming from Hangzhou then you need to take a bus from the Hangzhou West Bus Station to Gao Hong (高虹) which should only cost 15 RMB and take about 2 hours.

From Gao Hong you can take a mini bus for around 60 RMB total (seats 7-9 people) and get dropped off directly at the foot of the mountain. You can arrange to meet up with the mini bus driver beforehand and she can meet you when you hop off the bus. Her number is +86 138 6800 8149.

Approach:

A steep approach in parts so be careful. The hike in takes about 30 minutes and is marked with stickers on bamboo trees. The path is well trodden so you can't really lose your way. Be sure not to damage any bamboo trees as they are part of a bamboo forest farm.

Where To Stay:

There are two guesthouses in the main village. Both are extremely modern and well equipped with wifi, hot showers, air conditioning and television. A night here will cost around 70 RMB which includes 3 meals. Beer, water and toiletries will cost more.

Call +86 159 6886 7008 to book a room.

Be sure to prepare yourself with all your own necessities as there is no shop in the village.

Ethic:
History:

This is a great example of some of the rapid crag development happening here in China. The area is only a few years old and still does have a lot of potential for more. Especially hard, multi pitch lines!

1.6. Guangdong 78 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 113.337786, 23.192347

1.6.1. Bai Yun Hill 0 routes in Crag

1.6.2. Ying Xi 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Jiu Long (Nine Dragons) area of Qing Yuan County, Guangdong is a climbing area mostly developed from 2005 to 2008. The rock is typical tropical limestone, dark and quite sharp where exposed to rainfall, lighter, smoother and providing great climbing where sheltered from the elements. The area has beautiful countryside providing a pleasant and relaxed atmosphere for climbing. There are over 80 established routes in over 15 sectors/areas and development is ongoing. Do not confuse Kowloon in Qing Yuan County with Kowloon in Hong Kong.

1.6.3. Chun Wan 0 routes in Crag

1.6.4. Qing Yuan County 78 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The climbing was mostly developed from 2005 to 2008. The rock is typical tropical limestone – dark and quite sharp where exposed to rainfall, lighter, smoother and providing great climbing where sheltered from the elements. The area has beautiful countryside giving a pleasant and relaxed atmosphere for climbing. There are about 80 established routes in the area.

The closest place to stay to most of the climbing areas is the town of Wohng Fa. It has two or three small hotels, a supermarket, shops and some restaurants. The other place to stay is Kowloon, which is slightly bigger and better provisioned than Wohng Fa but is further from the climbing. Kowloon has two or three small hotels, some restaurants, a supermarket, a wet market and small shops. Both of these are basic rural towns with little tourism infrastructure. However, some mainland group tours come to the area to visit hot springs and take in the scenery. Tourism is growing and the facilities improve every year. Take care not to confuse Kowloon in Qing Yuan County with Kowloon in Hong Kong. Although they have the same name, they are vastly different places.

1.7. Fujian 0 routes in Region

1.7.1. Mo Xi Climbing Park 0 routes in Crag

1.7.2. Luo Yuan Lin Tou Cliff 0 routes in Crag

1.7.3. Chang Le Zhang Gang Cliff 0 routes in Crag

1.7.4. Ma Wei Shang Qi 0 routes in Crag

1.7.5. Red Flag Canal Cliff of Xiashi in Fuqing Jingyang 0 routes in Crag

1.7.6. Xiashi Cliff in Fuqing Jingyang 0 routes in Crag

1.7.7. MaWei MoXi 0 routes in Crag

1.8. Shandong 85 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 118.591256, 36.388904

1.8.1. Qingdao 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 120.388695, 36.250076

1.8.2. Zi Bo 81 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9. Guizhou 201 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 106.884575, 26.824220

1.9.1. Getu 199 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 106.255137, 25.677410

Unique Features And Strengths:

Spectacular limestone arches and walls.

Description:

Gétû Valley: To date 250 pitches have so far been opened. The climbing at Getu includes all facets, reliefs, styles and levels of difficulty, including 10 sustained multi-pitch sport routes from 120 to 250 meters, raging from 4+ to 8+. More than 15 sport climbing sectors have been established with everything from steep walls, slabs and caves featuring grades of 5a to 9a.

Access Issues:
  • Arrive in China at an international airport.

  • Continue to Guiyang, capital of Guizhou province, either by plane or train. Guiyang is a city of two million people with a national airport, a train station and a bust station.

  • From Guiyang, you can take either a bus (the bus station is near the train station) or take a taxi directly to Getu (count on about 4 to 5 hours and a cost of around 1000 rmb). By bus, there is either a direct Guiyang - Ziyun bus that passes through Anshun, or two buses (Guiyang – Anshun and Anshun – Ziyun). This takes five hours. From Ziyun, take the minibus that goes to Getu: about 45 minutes.

  • Getu is a small village at the end of a road where you'll find a national park with a symbolic arch through which the sun's rays pass. Once you get to Ziyun you will find people who know of Getu.

Approach:

All the crags in Getu are within walking distance from the main town and are generally visible from the main road. Crags that are in The Great Arch National Park will require the purchase of a visitor pass before entry into the park will be granted. Tread lightly through the local farms and villages when approaching the crags.

Ethic:

Sports Climbing

History:

Petzl RocTrip 2011 Getu guide can be downloaded from the following link:

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/petzl-roctrip/china2011

More Beta can be sourced from the following link:

http://chinarockclimber.com/?cat=19

1.9.2. Guiyang Government 0 routes in Crag

1.9.3. Yang Jia Zhai 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.9.4. Ya Di Village 0 routes in Crag

1.9.5. Bo Ji Zhai 0 routes in Crag

1.9.6. Storm Hill 0 routes in Crag

1.10. Sichuan & Chongqing 0 routes in Region

1.10.1. Shuang Qiao Valley 0 routes in Crag

1.10.2. Chang Ping Valley 0 routes in Crag

1.10.3. Jarjinjabo 0 routes in Crag

1.10.4. Dao Cheng 0 routes in Crag

1.10.5. Yu Lin He 0 routes in Crag

1.11. Others 0 routes in Unknown

1.11.1. Bo Long Ke 0 routes in Crag

1.11.2. Lhasa 0 routes in Area

1.11.3. Xi Ya Valley 0 routes in Area