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Description

Square Mountain includes a meandering staircase that will take you to and through two very large caves, Treasure Cave and Brother's Cave respectively.

The crag is always in shade and can get very cold and windy during the cooler months. Some of the climbs are dusty and the protection is sometimes dubious. The climbing itself is generally excellent.

Access issues

The area is managed by Yangshuo Base Camp, whom operate a zip-line in Treasure Cave. Please be respectful.

Routes

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Grade Route

A staircase of stone blocks. Climbs will appear on your left. Many require a 70m rope.

FA: Qiu Jiang, 2012

FA: Qiu Jiang, 2012

FA: Cheng Fu, 2012

FA: Jack, 2012

FA: Qiu Jiang, 2012

FA: Qiu Jiang, 2012

The anchor is high up in the weakness after the chimney.

FA: Simon Dilks & Dave Giddon, 2005

FA: Cheng Fu & Qiu Jiang, 2012

FA: Jack & GuGu, 2012

FA: Adam GoHard & Jack, 2012

FA: Jack

Excellent and sustained

FA: Jack & Adam GoHard, 2012

Excellent and sustained.

This route does not top-out. P1 climbs the ramping weakness. P2 traverses right and then up a short corner. P3 and P4 continue up the wide layback crack and should be linked together. Abseil the route.

FA: Jonathon Griffith & Jack, 2012

The first large cave you enter, easily visible from far below. Yangshuo Base Camp operate a zip-line here and in fact manage the whole area, giving free access to climbers. Please be respectful.

Steep corner with a tougher finish.

FA: Valentine Laubriet, 2015

Extension to Surprise Attack. Follow a long tough tufa system, passed an easy slab, for quite a "trad" finish.

FA: Valentine Laubriet, 2015

Awesome climb. Overhung on big holds. Take care of your rope position near some sharp edges.

FA: Keith Noyes, Morgan & Yingren, 2002

Immediatly right of Sai Yan. Varied climbing of consistent difficulty. Given 6a+ in 2011 guidebook, but likely several grades harder. Unusual marbled rounded holds up high.

Technical off vertical wall climbing.

FA: Keith Noyes, Morgan & Yingren, 2002

Nice, easier face climb.

Sharp holds lead to a nice stalactite.

Up 'Windswept' to large ledge, traverse left, then up tufa/stalactite past fixed sling to anchor.

This climb is located immediately left from “Where’s My Tyrolean”. Nice face climbing leads to steep climbing through stalactites.

Super sharp holds leads to slopers, then steep climbing, then up through a horrible stalactite to the anchor. Excellent climb.

Continue through Treasure's Cave and down and right for 20m along an obvious trail.

6b+, project

Pumpy start

Climbs through the tufa system

This route is outside the cave, on the right side looking in..

Areas

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1st Cave Sector
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