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Description

A large tower with one multi pitch route that is shaded in the late afternoon.

Approach

Approach notes as in the guide. To find the path, pass the basketball court on your left (approaching from the north) and turn right into a dirt path after the stone sculpture garden. Follow the dirt path right until it crosses a low brick fence behind the garden. Alternately, find a small log bridge metres from the road before the garden; following this and a small bash will lead you to the same path.

From the path there are at least three ~30m bashes up to the cliff face. It seems the one of least resistance starts ~20m right (facing the cliff) of the power pole, in front of a 2m dead tree. It gets slightly better as you go up. Bring insect repellent.

Routes

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Grade Route

This is a regular sports route, however the last pitch needs some trad gear (slings as a bare minimum).

1st pitch: 5.8, 28m

2nd pitch: 5.9, 25m

3rd pitch: 5.9, 10m

4th pitch: 5.9, 18m

5th pitch: 5.8 sport/trad 20m

Descent is by 4 abseils. The first two descend to the anchors starting P4 and P5. Check where you're going (left) before the second abseil. The final two depart from the ascent route.

This route is an alternative 1st pitch to SMT starting in the same location and following the right line of bolts.

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